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NDTV
10-06-2025
- Entertainment
- NDTV
A Fulfilling Feast Of Refined Flavours: What To Expect At Comorin Mumbai
Comorin, Gurugram's acclaimed all-day restaurant and bar, has opened doors at its second location: a swanky new space in Lower Parel, Mumbai. Situated in Nilaya Anthology within Peninsula Corporate Park, the establishment is here to dazzle the city with its redefined regional Indian plates and award-winning drinks programme. Comorin is a brand by EHV International, a part of the renowned Old World Hospitality Group, which includes restaurants such as Indian Accent, Hosa, and Fireback. The kitchen is led by Chef Dhiraj Dargan, while the bar is helmed by celebrated mixologist Varun Sharma. Comorin Mumbai's striking layout and design elements are the work of Rishiv Khattar (a creative director with the company), London's Russell Sage Studio and Gurugram-based Incubis Consultants. They have established a slightly different identity in terms of colours (as compared to the original location). However, they have followed the overall ethos of Comorin, along with the inclusion of the signature long communal table and deconstructed bar. At the back of the restaurant is a door to the serene Orangery at Nilaya, a small indoor garden with a skylit roof. Comorin's menu is inspired by traditional delicacies from different parts of India. It enhances regional comfort foods with soft, clever never nudges - it doesn't seek to overhaul the familiar completely, nor does it overwhelm diners with elaborate combinations. The first few dishes we happened to order epitomised Comorin's approach to food well. The zingy Lemon Gunpowder Idlis, topped with crunchy cashews, arrived with pretty quenelles of three chutneys at the side. The wholesome Smoked Kathal Galawat delighted us with its meat-like softness. The Tawa Crab Anda Bhurji gave a fun seafood twist to a breakfast staple beloved in this city, and the crisp pieces of Chilli Butter Toast made for the perfect pairing. The message here was clear: there is space for elements of experimentation, but that is not its sole focus. Talking about the process of adapting Comorin's menu for Mumbai, Chef Dhiraj Dragan revealed, "One of the key challenges was accounting for the city's tropical climate - the high humidity, monsoon rains, and the way these factors influence appetite and dining preferences. We aimed to create dishes that felt lighter, fresher, and more in tune with the weather. Another important consideration was the significant vegetarian clientele in Mumbai. We ensured the menu reflected this by developing dishes that weren't just meat-free, but were equally exciting and flavour-forward." We saw part of this reflected in plates like the Dahi Batata Puri with Kachalu, which melts in the mouth and leaves behind a tinge of a fiery sensation derived from an ingredient unexpected in the domain of chaat. Among the non-vegetarian small plates, we also enjoyed the Fried Chicken Bun with Kolkata Mustard and Bheja Fry with Khasta Roti. Whatever their origin, the spotlight was shone on robust flavours expertly and unapologetically. Comorin Gurugram has won multiple accolades for its beverage programme, and we are glad Mumbai can now relish its signature sips. Comorin's cocktails are not only a reflection of technical prowess, but also of the freshness of flavours derived from its various liqueurs, syrups and other drink components that are all made in-house. While we found the Nashik Spritz (Gin, Green Apple, Limoncello, White Wine and Ginger Ale) refreshing, it is the gorgeously smooth Walnut Sour that we would definitely return for. The latter is made by infusing bourbon whiskey with walnuts using a pressure infusion technique. Later, the whiskey is shaken with house-made cinnamon & pineapple oleo saccharum, a touch of apricot and a saline solution. Comorin is also renowned for its Sous Vide cocktails, wherein Varun Sharma adapts the culinary technique generally used for slow-cooking food to create flavour-forward drinks. He explains how he does so: "We take a double shot of spirit (Gin, Tequila, or Vodka) and add the selected ingredients into a sous vide bag, which is then vacuum sealed and placed in a sous vide bath at a set temperature for 90 seconds. After the infusion, the bag is given a 20-second cold bath to chill it instantly. We then pour the liquid directly into a stem glass, top it with tonic or carbonated water, and garnish it with the same fresh ingredients used in the infusion." The method is seemingly simple yet genius. From this section, we tasted and loved the Vodka with Orange and Peach. Comorin also has an approachable wine programme led by Kevin Rodrigues. Every wine on the list (which featured over 50 labels from around the world) is available by the glass. If you're not drinking alcohol, you'll be happy to know that the zero-proof section is far from an afterthought here. Rather, it features a wide range of refined drinks enjoyable in their own right - rather than just being bland versions of cocktails. We suggest starting with something light, like the creamy Coconut Licuado made by blending coconut water and coconut flesh (malai). Next, move to a more layered concoction like the Pomegranate Salted Shrub. Don't miss the opportunity to try the House Sodas too. We sampled all of them, and it was difficult to pick a single favourite. While the Raspberry & Thyme is sure to be a crowd-pleaser, the Saffron Ginger Ale must not be overlooked. In effect, thanks to their superb blend of sweetness, aroma and fizziness, these drinks redefined what a soda means. As with their alcoholic counterparts, technique reigns supreme here. Coming back to the food, note that Comorin's menu has large plates as well as "extra large plates." New offerings like the Amrud Ki Subzi, Aam Ki Kadhi, Keema Kofta Curry, Himachali Cha Gosht, and Paranthe Wali Gali are available only at the Mumbai outpost. We tried some old favourites, including the Comorin Dal Tadka with Chilli Mint Laccha Paratha and the Banana Leaf Bhetki with Chilli Coconut Masala. We can see the dal (featuring five types of lentils) becoming a fast favourite with the corporate diners this restaurant is bound to attract. On the other hand, the soft and spicy Bhetki exudes coastal leisure - we took our time relishing it with rice. As for desserts, note that, except for the famous Cheeni Malai Toast, all are new additions. We highly recommend the innovative and scrumptious Comorin Cassata, with layers of vanilla, mango and jamun ice cream. The seriousness of Comorin's dedication to quality is balanced with the fun of simply delicious food, resulting in a meal that couldn't help but be memorable. It's always reassuring to realise that the question isn't if we're going to revisit a new restaurant like this, but when we're going to come back. Have you made your reservations yet? Address: Comorin@NilayaAnthology, Peninsula Point, Peninsula Corporate Park, Ganpatrao Kadam Marg, Lower Parel(West), Mumbai.
Mint
29-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Mint
Weekend food plan: Comorin comes to Mumbai plus new restaurants to try
Comorin comes to Mumbai After seven successful years in Gurugram, Comorin debuted in Mumbai at Peninsula Corporate Park in Lower Parel this week with playful renditions of India's diverse heritage cuisines. For the Mumbai menu, brand chef Dhiraj Dargan plates up old and new favourites, and takes special care keeping the seasonality and street food culture of the city in mind. There are small and large plates to savour, each packed with story and flavour. Sample the achari beetroot, corn khichdi and aam ki kadi under the vegetarian section followed by Himachali cha gosht, bhetki steamed in banana leaf, and a superlative haleem that pairs perfectly with bakarkhani. Do not leave without the desserts—both the signature malai cheeni toast and salted chikki kulfi with a house-made rocher are truly delightful. The mango and fig highball, and a zesty gin-based cocktail featuring green apple, Nashik white wine and limoncello are excellent to sip on the side. Amuse yourself with cocktails on the tap and a fun range of batch-made sodas if you wish to linger on. Where: Comorin, Nilaya Anthology, Peninsula Corporate Park, Lower Parel, Mumbai Contact: +91 22-35387627 Himachali siddu at Kona Kona, Mumbai. Nostalgic bites at Kona Kona Kona Kona is a new all day bar and restaurant in Andheri that is bringing some of the most cherished dishes from across the country through fun and flavourful twists. Conceptualised by actor Mona Singh, the culinary programme is a tribute to family meals and street-side treats, and is designed by Kashmiri home chef Jasleen Marwah of Kala Ghoda's Folk restaurant fame, and chef Neetu Solanki. From jhol momos of Darjeeling and Himachali siddu bread to the crowd-favourite butter chicken and egg chops from Kolkata's Park Street, there's lot to choose from. Where: Kona Kona, unit 27-30, ground floor, Kuber Complex, Andheri Lokhandwala, Andheri (W), Mumbai Contact: +91-9867880076 Sakura sunset cocktail at Gaijin, Mumbai.
The Hindu
27-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Hindu
Comorin lands in Mumbai with a tasting tour of the country
For years, the shorthand for dining out in Indian metros meant calling in a Thai curry, picking pasta over paratha, or playing it safe with butter chicken and naan. It was not that we did not love our local food, it is just that certain flavours, usually North Indian or vaguely 'Mughlai,' dominated menus and imaginations alike. But that is changing. Slowly, then suddenly, regional Indian cuisine has slipped into the spotlight. What was once siloed to homes, festivals, or specific communities is now making its way to small plates and chef's tasting menus. This culinary curiosity has opened new doors, especially for a generation of diners. After earning a devoted following in Gurugram for its elevated take on regional Indian comfort food, Comorin has finally made its Mumbai debut at Nilaya Anthology, the new concept store by Asian Paints that spotlights design and home decor in Lower Parel. It marks the arrival of a philosophy that honours India's street-side staples and regional gems, all through a distinctly contemporary lens. Operated by EHV International (part of Old World Hospitality), Comorin has carved a reputation for doing something quite rare: making diners nostalgic and intrigued at the same time. Brand Chef Dhiraj Dargan draws from the country's diverse culinary map to create a menu that feels both city-specific and universally comforting. And it is not just the food that invites exploration. Varun Sharma, EHV International's head of bars, brings his award-winning cocktail craftsmanship to Mumbai too. The bar programme continues Comorin's tradition of innovation with sous-vide infusions, cocktails on tap, and an array of house-made sodas and beverages. The space Building on the original Gurugram outpost, the Mumbai edition is not a replica but a re-interpretation — rooted in brand identity, yet sensitively tailored for its new home. London-based Russell Sage Studio, in collaboration with creative director Rishiv Khattar of EHV, carries forward the design language with a renewed eye. The palette deepens, quite literally — blushes and deep reds that formed accents in Gurugram now take centrestage here, enveloping the space in warmth and tactility. Materials are the quiet protagonists: Indian wood, richly grained; tactile fabrics; metal finishes with a burnished sheen; tiles that subtly segment the space into zones. From the experimental, almost disjointed bar at the entrance, communal tables extend inward, guiding guests through a mix of seating arrangements until they reach a tucked-away room at the back — part retreat, part reveal. The food There is something delightfully rogue about a menu that gives you bheja fry with khasta roti, then turns around and hands you a chocolate dessert with a Monaco biscuit crumble. Comorin's Mumbai chapter is indulgent, but with restraint. Take the Smoked Kathal Galawat. It is smoky, yes, but not heavy. The jackfruit does not try to impersonate meat — it holds its own, bolstered by the sweetness of mango chilli chutney that arrives like a sharp little side note. Then comes the Kalari Cheese Bun, a gooey nod to Jammu, offset with sweet chilli onions that flirt rather than overwhelm. Andhra Gongura Chicken served with crisp shards of murukku is another standout — punchy, tart, crunchy, and deeply South Indian without needing to over-explain itself. Three Pepper Chicken Tikka with peanuts and green onions leans more toward bar snack, the kind you keep nibbling between conversations. The Tawa Chicken Liver lands bold and iron-rich, but softened cleverly with a messy, spicy tomato toast that is like a chaser in solid form. There is also a deep-seated love for offal here: the Bheja Fry is silkier than expected, wrapped in nostalgia and a crisp roti. Meanwhile, the Green Chilli Prawns with Mizoram black rice feel like a chef's palate-cleanser — subtle heat, textural play, and a slight whisper of smoke. On the heavier side of the spectrum: Champaran Mutton, all slow-cooked drama and sattu-stuffed parantha on the side, and a Murgh Yakhni Pulao that is not too rich. Then there is the Banana Leaf Bhetki in a chilli coconut masala that demands finger-eating reverence. Dessert does not let up. The Cheeni Malai Toast is both cheeky and comforting — old-school bakery meets honeycomb and a well-placed crunch. But it is the Comorin Cassata, with jamun, mulberry, and salted chocolate, that tastes like a memory you cannot quite place. There are subtle nods to Maharashtra too — think a reimagined dahi batata puri, and a comforting pao bhaji with caramelised onion pao. Rohit Khattar, founder-chairman of EHV International, notes that the Mumbai menu features around 10–15 additional dishes tailored to the city. But it does raise the question — was it all necessary? The menu could have been leaner, perhaps with a handful of city-specific staples and a well-curated tasting menu to tie it all together. That said, the flexibility here is guests can request tasting portions of large plates, allowing for a more exploratory, less overwhelming experience. The drinks Comorin's cocktail list walks the tightrope between botanical nerdiness and pure, unfussy pleasure. The Fennel Paloma lingers in memory long after the glass is empty. Fennel-infused tequila meets a grapefruit-dill-fennel oleo shrub, rounded out with fresh grapefruit juice and bubbles. It is refreshing, vegetal, and citrus-bright. The Mango and Fig Highball is familiar yet fresh. Choose your base — gin or vodka — but the real story is in the cordial: mango's tropical lushness grounded by fig, topped with carbonated water and a light dusting of gunpowder mix that adds an earthy, almost smoky note. The Nashik Spritz leans softer but does not skimp on flavour. A crisp gin base mingles with green apple and Comorin's house-made limoncello, then gets lengthened with Nashik white wine and a hit of ginger. It's India's answer to the Venetian spritz —zesty, lightly spiced, and unmistakably local. The cocktails are companions to a menu that is already pushing the boundaries of comfort and curiosity. A meal (including alcohol) for two costs ₹4,000 plus taxes. Address: Peninsula Corporate Park, Peninsula Point, At Nilaya Anthology, Ganpatrao Kadam Marg, Lower Parel West, Mumbai 400013
