Love Sicily but not the crowds? Visit this Aeolian island instead

National Geographic

10-06-2025

Hop on a hydrofoil from Milazzo, Sicily, and in less than two hours you'll find yourself on the beautiful island of Salina. Stromboli's volcano stands tall on the distant horizon, and unlike Sicily, there are not many crowds of people. Locals whizz by on mopeds while only a few tourists relax at a sea cove on the side of the road.
Salina is the second-largest island in the Aeolian archipelago (Lipari is the largest), yet it is home to only around 2,500 residents, making the island the perfect immersion into relaxed Italian island culture and lifestyle.
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'Salina is like stepping into a love story—it's not about flashy attractions but about the quiet beauty that slowly captures your heart. It's the greenest of the Aeolian Islands, with lush landscapes, volcanic peaks, and the most incredible sea views," says Anita Motta, owner and hotel director of Principe di Salina, a boutique hotel on the island. Home to about 2,500 residents, Salina offers a quiet introduction to the Aeolian Islands. Photograph by DanieleC, Alamy Stock Photo (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Raffaele Celentano, laif/Redux (Bottom) (Right)
Though much smaller than Sicily, Salina does not lack in personality. Upon arriving at Santa Marina's port, one of the island's three cities, travelers will discover Santa Marina's narrow streets are populated with cafes, restaurants, bars, and clothing boutiques that have sourced items from across Italy. The town's mainstay is its 18th-century yellow-and-white-trimmed church with bell towers.
"What makes it truly special is its authenticity. You won't find crowds or over-commercialized spots here. Instead, you'll discover artisan wineries, caper farms, and locals who welcome you like family," says Motta. "It's a place to immerse yourself in nature, indulge in slow living, and feel the rhythm of the Mediterranean." What to do in Salina
This charming island can be easily divided into small regions. Begin the adventure in Malfa, a lovely town with boutiques, restaurants, and vineyards. Savor the local cuisine at In Sé Natura, perched on a cliff with direct views of the sea, or at the Michelin-starred Signum.
Salina is best known for its fine grapes and Malvasia wine, which can be dry or sweet. Stroll downhill and you'll encounter Punta Scario Beach, a cove that is home to a rocky beach where sunbathers can rent inflatable mattresses from a local sitting in a chair at the bottom of the steps. The grapes grown on Salina are used to produce Malvasia wine, which can be dry or sweet. Photograph by Kirchner, laif/Redux
(This volcanic Italian island was made for wine)
Pollara is one of the most stunning areas to the northwest of the island; it was created by a partially collapsed volcanic crater that formed a bay on the island. The location is known for being the primary set of the 1994 movie Il Postino.
Capers are one of the island's largest exports, and visitors can spend hours at the Sapori Eoliani caper farm in Pollara learning about the salty fruit.
There is a small World War I fort on the road between Malfa and Pollara, popular for its panoramic views and breathtaking sunsets. 'Watching the colors of the sky shift over the ancient volcanic cliffs is an experience that stays with you forever,' says Motta.
The southwestern village of Rinella has two different noteworthy attractions. First is the Spiaggia di Rinella black sand beach, which is ideal for spending a relaxing afternoon soaking up the sun. Second is Pa.Pe.Rò restaurant, known for its ricotta granita. Granita is a Sicilian dessert that is essentially a shaved ice dessert with flavoring.
Lingua is at the southernmost end of the island, and has a scenic short promenade walk that ends at the lighthouse. You'll find shops, cafes, and the not-to-be-missed Da Alfredo restaurant. Da Alfredo is a family-run restaurant overlooking the esplanade, known for its pane cunzato, a traditional Sicilian open-faced sandwich. The town is at sea level, and you'll see locals and tourists lounging in the water while waiting for their food to be served. Where to stay Salina is the second-largest of the Aeolian Islands. Photograph by Image Professionals GmbH, Alamy Stock Photo
Principe di Salina is a boutique hotel set on the cliff of the island with views of the sea and Stromboli volcano. The hotel is run by a wife-and-husband duo: Anita runs the hotel, and Filippo is the baker. Upon entering the open-air lobby, guests will find towels and towel baskets at the front desk, a tell-tale sign of relaxed island life.
Rent an e-scooter or book a boat tour around the island. Guests can indulge in a daily poolside happy hour, bask in the sun around the hotel's centerpiece, the aquamarine-colored pool, or lounge in one of the hotel's many hammocks, mattresses, or couches for an afternoon siesta.
Breakfasts and dinners are served communal style, on a long table where guests can mingle. If there is leftover food, Anita will personally serve a second (and even third) helping to guests craving more.
'The story of Principe di Salina is deeply rooted in my family's history and love for this island. It all began when my grandfather Alfredo first came to Salina with my mother, Silvana, who was just a little girl at the time. Their connection to the island was instant and profound," says Motta. "Fast forward to 2017, my parents and I decided to honor that legacy by opening Principe di Salina."
Hotel I Cinque Balconi is another island favorite. It's a great stop for the first or last night on the island since Santa Marina is where the hydrofoil docks. It's been family-owned by the Lo Schiavos since the 18th century. The great-grandfather of the current owners was a sea merchant and collaborated with the owner of the adjacent building, also a sea merchant. The hotel is known for having five balconies, hence the hotel's name, which means "overlooking the sea."
The building presents hints of historical architecture and has an impressive garden of fig and pomegranate trees, roses, and mint, among a number of other beautiful and fragrant plants. The hotel's Casa Lo Schiavo restaurant is well-regarded by locals and tourists for its open kitchen and flavorful traditional dishes.
(10 must-do experiences in Sicily) Latifah Al-Hazza enjoys writing about all things travel, whether it's about a tribe in the Omo Valley or the latest luxury hotel opening in the Maldives. Her first international flight was when she was three months old and since then she has traveled to over 80 countries. She currently resides between Virginia, Chicago, and Kuwait. Follow her adventures on Instagram @tifahtravels