The ‘Stuff' of a New York Legend, From Skateboards to $12,000 Sweaters
In 1984, the artist and editor (and John Baldessari protégée) Kim Hastreiter co-founded Paper Magazine with her friend David Hershkovits, to document the cultural explosion in downtown New York City at the time. What began as a D.I.Y. operation in her TriBeCa loft would run for 33 years as one of the most respected independent fashion and arts publications ever.
Hastreiter, now 73, has worn many hats over the years — artist, journalist, curator — but her passion for collecting has remained a constant. Now she has immortalized all her favorite objects, friends and stories in STUFF: A New York Life of Cultural Chaos (Damiani, $75).
'More than a memoir,' she writes, this book collects everything from a $12,000 sweater to a Jeff Koons dinner plate, stickers, jewelry and just about every category of art you can think of, resulting in a 'big chaotic archive' of a half-century's worth of New York culture.
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Forbes
a day ago
- Forbes
The Aaron Jah Stone Pocket Watch Is Couture's Most Coveted Timepiece
The gem-set pocket watch by Aarn Jah Stone designer Cyril Bismuth, on show at the Couture Show in ... More Las Vegas this week. It's Las Vegas Jewelry Week and at the Couture Show, Aaron Jah Stone is showing for the first time. Behind the brand, is the Parisian jewelry designer and passionate stone hunter Cyril Bismuth, whose 'spiritual jewelry' already has a firm following in the US market. With him in Vegas, is a very special jewel designed to mark a milestone — and it's up for the Best in Innovative Award. Bismuth decided to create a 15th anniversary pocket watch on the way back from a trip to Dallas, as he tells me, when we meet in a Paris restaurant. 'I love the ways Texans can combine the classic jeans-cowboy boots-Stetson look with French designer luxury.' Until a few years ago, he admits he 'didn't know much about the State beyond JR Ewing in Dallas,' but he has since made many friends in this most welcoming of States. In gem-set silver, the Aaron Jah Stone pocketwatch feels pleasingly heavy. Set into rugged, textured silver, a rainbow mix of faceted and polished sapphires, tourmalines and turquoises mark the hours in the 36mm watch case. The piece is attached to a string of his signature hard stone beads, with custom clips so it can be worn as a necklace or pocket watch inspired by the old-style elegance of modern Texan style. The piece feels heavy in the hand, and significant; a fitting celebration of his first 15 years in business. With a carefully designed interior, it closes with a safe and satisfying snap. Bismuth's eyes light up when he's talking about gemstones, whether it's buying turquoise at a mine in Arizona, or sifting through watermelon tourmalines and Zambian sapphires in Bangkok. He describes what it was like to buy a gemstone in the backstreets of Rangoon; a pale blue, slightly starred sapphire cabochon. It would be the first time he had bought a sapphire back from Mayanmar: 'it was the stone of my whole trip,' he says, and he went on to set the sapphire in the first ever silver ring he made, at the Haute Ecole de Joaillerie jewelry school in Paris. Aaron Jah Stone's pocket watch is designed for a 36mm watch. 'I've collected stones ever since I was a kid,' he says. 'Even worthless rocks have always been fascinating to me'. After completing his training, he began making hard stone bracelets, and elaborate strings of precious beads strung on his signature red thread, before moving onto small collections, like the Phoenix collection, in which opal eyes wink out from beds of diamond pave as they climb ears and encircle fingers. It's jewelry made with intention, each stone chosen for its properties, and it soon caught celebrity eyes. Aaron Jah Stone came to prominence in Paris in the early 2010s and achieved international visibility when Bismuth's friend Sebastien Jondeau showed Karl Lagerfeld his jewelry. Lagerfeld wore one of his necklaces in Singapore at the Chanel resort show in 2013 and Bismuth ended up creating a new necklace for the Chanel Creative Director at each Fashion Week thereafter. Before long, Bismuth was front-row at the Chanel runway and his designs were seen on members of Lagerfeld's inner circle, including models Lily Rose Depp and Cara Delevingne. A watermelon tourmaline and gold necklace by Aaron Jah Stone Since then, he has created jewelry for celebrities from Michael Jordan to Pharrell, and appeared in glossy magazines and newspapers worldwide. But he became disillusioned with the media after a time and took a step back from the limelight to build up a solid global collector base. He first met the Couture founder Gannon Brousseau a decade ago, but at the time the Paris luxury store Montaigne Market gave him all the international visibility he needed. Fast forward ten years, and the time is finally right to take Aaron Jah Stone to the Desert City. It's a strong edition for French independent designer brands at Couture, some of whom have previously been more tentative participants, citing travel and booth cost as barriers and preferring to show on home ground during Paris Fashion Weeks. In recent years, French-owned brands have become more prominent. After winning the award for Best in Debuting in 2022, Marie Lichtenberg is now a regular, as well as Yvonne Leon, Rainbow K and Maison Alix Dumas, showcasing the breadth of creativity from French designers to a cohort of premium international buyers and press. Cyril Bismuth, the jewelry designer behind Aaron Jah Stone Although Bismuth retains a loyal French clientele, his US collectorship developed rapidly. 'I understood early on that my collectors already had all the classics from the big houses,' he explains. 'They wanted unique, meaningful jewels that they could stack, or one-off masterpieces to wear as a statement. Americans are lot more sensitive to spiritual jewelry than the French, and I love that!', he laughs. 'They choose bigger colored stones and understand the rarity of the piece, because I produce mainly bespoke and very small series. There's an element of rejection of the luxury 'uniform'.' 'When you buy one of my pieces, you're buying an energy, a story. It's everything from day one of my stone-sourcing research, my trips, all the different stages in the making process in my Parisian workshops, right up to my Instagram post celebrating the final piece,' Bismuth says. And Aaron Jah Stone has a busy summer to come, with a stop-off at that Arizona turquoise mine after Couture, before heading back to Europe for private sales with his international clientele in villas and on yachts in the Mediterranean. September will see him back Stateside for a string of trunk shows in New York, Dallas, Aspen and Miami. I get the sense that whether he's sifting rough turquoise or meeting new clients, busy is exactly how Bismuth likes it.
Forbes
2 days ago
- Forbes
Gurhan High Karat Gold Jewels Illuminate Couture Show With A Rare Glow
New York-based designer Gurhan is exhibiting hi latest limited edition and one-off high karat gold ... More jewels at the Couture show in Las Vegas June 4 - June 8. Specializing in hand-wrought, 24-karat, 22-karat gold and sterling silver jewels ranging from a granulated sterling silver cross pendant necklace priced at $245.00 to hand-hammered 24-karat gold beaded men's bracelets to a one-of-a-kind Paraiba tourmaline necklace that retails for approximately $200,000, Turkish-born, New York-based high luxury jewelry designer Gurhan Orhan creates distinctive jewels in an epic array of styles and price ranges. Yet his jewelry's main marks of distinction reside in their embodiment of traditional artisanal techniques and aesthetic tendencies that originated in the Byzantine empire (roughly from 330 AD to 1453 AD), as well as antique elements sourced from around the world. In addition to being a designer, Gurhan cuts the turquoise, boulder opals and other gemstones that ... More he uses in his various collections. While Gurhan's Antiquities collection pieces are set with everything from ancient Roman micro-mosaics and carnelian intaglios to 16th century Japanese Satsuma porcelains buttons of rare beauty, his High Jewelry, Gold Classic, 25th anniversary, Curated and Men's collections are alive with Gurhan's love of gold, precious gemstones and the Old World mastery of his Istanbul artisans, which he has carefully trained over the years. Gurhan, who is exhibiting his many collections at the Couture Show in Las Vegas June 4 - June 8, granted a Zoom interview to this writer to reflect on his career, which began in Turkey and brought him to New York City 26 years ago. Gurhan's radiant New York City flagship boutique is located on Franklin Street in Soho. While Gurhan's boutique at 160 Franklin Street in New York's Soho district has been gleaming and going strong for eleven years, he continues to expand his creative horizons. After training as a lapidary, Gurhan is now cutting turquoise, boulder opal and other gems that are set in his jewels. 'A collection with the #8 mine turquoise that I cut will be presented at Couture,' Gurhan noted, along with a tourmaline collection, a sapphire collection, plus diamonds and gold collections. 'At Couture, we are also exhibiting pieces such as a bracelet that can be added to a necklace for interchangeable looks,' he confided. "Versatility is an important advantage in a jewel as many customers highly value this aspect of a design." FEATURED | Frase ByForbes™ Unscramble The Anagram To Reveal The Phrase Pinpoint By Linkedin Guess The Category Queens By Linkedin Crown Each Region Crossclimb By Linkedin Unlock A Trivia Ladder Ancient scarabs, Roman micro-mosaics, intaglios and bronze elements from antiquity set in high karat ... More gold make this Gurhan Antiquities bracelet a treasure, When it comes to describing the formative influences on his aesthetic, 'Byzantium is my starting point,' Gurhan explained, 'as the Byzantine empire had such a strong love of gold, which I completely identify with. In Byzantine art and culture," he related, 'gold symbolized divine light, transcendence, and spiritual purity. Its presence in religious objects, artwork and jewelry, made gold a symbol of strength, profound beauty, purity, faith, wealth and power. During the Byzantine era, the Roman Empire expanded East, and centered on Constantinople, which is now called Istanbul,' he continued. 'The Roman influence on Constantinople explains why much Byzantine jewelry resembles jewels of Roman antiquity, and while the Byzantine Empire's artistic and cultural influence spread far and wide, its use of gold in jewelry, in royal objects and in fine art made a huge impact on other world cultures.' Like a secret garden, Gurhan's opal and diamond ring set in high karat gold is alive with constantly ... More changing colors and light. Gurhan's jewelry differs from many other contemporary jewelers in that it is made with hand-wrought, labor-intensive techniques like granulation, filigree, and inlay, showcasing his admiration for Byzantine traditions of metalworking and adornment. In Gurhan's estimation, gold is more than a precious, beautiful and rare jewelry material. For him, it is a cosmically powerful substance with proven scientific properties. 'It's amazing that gold came to this planet as a result of meteorite bombardments," Gurhan mused. "It flew through outer space and landed like a gift deep inside the earth. Gold is a kind of transmitter that moves energy into your body, and it's also the best conductor of electricity with maximum efficiency," he claimed. Jewelry designer Gurhan Orhan wears high karat gold rings and an earring of his own design. In addition, 'Pure gold is hyper-precious and because it is almost 40 percent heavier than 18-karat gold, it feels fantastic on the body,' he said with a smile. Along with his respect for the energetic properties of gold, Gurhan also reveres whatever it is that animates gemstones. 'Energies live inside gemstones, definitely,' he said. 'In the case of pearls, these materials were made by a living thing, an oyster. Think about that,' he said with a laugh, while holding up to the camera a 40.25 inch strand of baroque freshwater pearls that featured a 22K gold lobster clasp. One of the standouts of Gurhan's Oyster collection, the necklace is one of his many utterly unique organic statement pieces. Gurhan's gift for high luxury jewelry design is fortified by his love of gold plus the colors, ... More textures and energies inherent in gemstones and organic gems, such as pearls, In order to compensate for gold's recent record high prices, Gurhan noted that, 'We have been making lots of new gold chains in different sizes that show a lot of gold yet are lighter in weight.' On the subject of gold's current price, Gurhan commented that, 'Considering that there is such a finite amount of gold, I believe that is priced rather low.' What if gold continues to rise even higher in price? 'The higher in value the raw material of your products, the better it is for your business,' he theorized. What's more, given that hundreds of Gurhan's online New York boutique clients are already avid members of his loyalty program, 'I remain optimistic, for my customers and my various retail partner who I will see at Couture all love gold as much as I do.' Gurhan utilizes the power of cabochon-cut colored gemstones offset by twinkling diamonds to create ... More visually impactful jewels.
Forbes
3 days ago
- Forbes
A 392-Carat Sapphire Could Fetch $12 Million Christie's New York Sale
'The Blue Belle,' a 392.52-carat Ceylon sapphire with an estimate of $8 - $12 million A fancy pink diamond with French Imperial provenance, Indian Mughal jewels and a 392.52-carat Ceylon sapphire are among the highlights of Christie's New York Magnificent Jewels auction on June 17. An historic jewel of exceptional provenance is one of the premier lots of the sale at Christie's Rockefeller Center headquarters. The 'Marie-Thérèse Pink Diamond' has a storied past that has passed through French, Bavaria and Austrian imperial and royal families and may be linked to Queen Marie Antoinette. The rare 10.38-carat kite-shaped fancy purple-pink diamond with SI1 clarity is believed to date to the mid-18th century, Christie's said. As the story goes, Marie Antoinette entrusted her jewels to her coiffeur on the eve of her failed escape from Paris in 1791, hoping to one day reclaim them. The jewels were then passed down to her only surviving child, Duchess Marie Thérèse de Angoulême, and later to her niece, Duchess Marie Thérèse de Chambord. Though not known for certain, it is likely that this pink diamond was part of this inheritance, Christie's said. The 'Marie-Thérèse Pink Diamond' with an estimate of $3 million - $5 million FEATURED | Frase ByForbes™ Unscramble The Anagram To Reveal The Phrase Pinpoint By Linkedin Guess The Category Queens By Linkedin Crown Each Region Crossclimb By Linkedin Unlock A Trivia Ladder 'Generations later,' Christie's said, a will identified the diamond's next known owner as Queen Marie Theresa of Bavaria, who referred to it as 'a pink solitaire diamond from Aunt Chambord.' The gem was stored in a velvet case containing a hat pin bearing the Austrian Imperial Warrant—likely dating to 1868—the diamond's provenance reflects its imperial legacy, Christie's said. The gem last appeared at auction in Geneva in 1996, offered by a member of a European royal family. Since that sale it has remained out of public view. In addition to its likely imperial provenance, the diamond has been set into a contemporary platinum ring paved with diamonds designed and crafted by famed American-Parisian jeweler Joel Arthur Rosenthal, better known as JAR. The estimate for the fancy pink diamond ring is $3 million - $5 million, making it the number two lot in the auction. The top honor in the 139-lot sale goes to a necklace featuring a 392.52-carat unheated Ceylon sapphire with a modified mixed-cut called 'The Blue Belle.' It is one of the largest known sapphires in the world. (top photo) Like the fancy pink diamond, this massive sapphire has a history shrouded in mystery. The gem was unearthed in 1926 at Pelmadula, Ratnapura ('The City of Gems') in Ceylon, but the size and shape of the gem in its rough form is unknown, Christie's said. It had a 'highly prized peacock blue color and excellent clarity,' according to the documentation Christie's uncovered. It was owned by the well-known gem and jewelry dealers Macan Markar in Colombo. 'The Blue Belle,' a 392.52-carat Ceylon sapphire with an estimate of $8 - $12 million Acquired in 1937 by British motor magnate Lord Nuffield. It is believed he planned to give it to Queen Elizabeth (later The Queen Mother) on King George VI's coronation. Instead, the jewel was sold privately and passed through several owners before appearing at Christie's Geneva auction in 2014 where it sold for $17.3 million. The sapphire is the centerpiece of an elaborate 18k white gold necklace covered in round and oval shaped diamond. Its estimate is $8 million - $12 million. In addition, the New York auction will offer three gem-set necklaces with historic Indian Mughal provenance. A Mughal Antique Carved Emerald Necklace with an estimate of $2 million - $3 million The first is a Mughal carved emerald necklace consisting of three carved Colombian hexagonal and two carved pear-shaped Colombian emeralds with an approximate total weight of 1,150 carats. The largest emerald of approximately 470 carats is inscribed with the name 'Ahmad Shah Durr-I Durran,' founder of the Durrani Empire of Afghanistan and northwest India. Its estimate is $2 million - $3 million. A Mughal antique multi-gem and emerald necklace with an estimate of $2 million - $3 million Similar to the first piece, is a Mughal multi-gem and emerald necklace featuring four Colombian emeralds weighing nearly 800 carats. The necklace is further adorned with a drop-shaped spinel bead, a baroque ruby bead and baroque natural pearls. Its estimate is $2 million - $3 million. A Mughal three-strand spinel and natural pearl necklace with an estimate of $1 million - $2 million The third piece is a Mughal three-strand spinel and natural pearl necklace with eight inscribed stones, in the Mughal tradition of memorializing gemstones to record their royal provenance. These spinels bear the names of some of the most powerful figures in history, including Muhammad ibn Tughluq-Shah, the Sultan of Delhi, the first Mughal emperor, Babur, and emperors Jahangir and Shah Jahan, Christie's said. The spinels have an approximate total weight of more than 2,000 carats. The estimate for the necklace is $1 million - $2 million. In addition, the New York auction is featuring a collection of jewels from the estate of Anne Hendricks Bass, an American investor, documentary filmmaker, and art collector who was the former wife of billionaire oilman Sid Bass. The collection consists of 26 personal jewels that feature examples from Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Cartier and JAR. Van Cleef & Arpels diamond pendant earrings with an estimate of $1.2 million - $1.8 million The top lot in this group is a pair of Van Cleef & Arpels earrings featuring pear brilliant-cut D-color diamonds of 11.93 and 11.83 carats, marquise, pear-shaped and round diamonds, platinum and white gold. Its estimate is $1.2 million - $1.8 million. JAR sapphire, emerald and diamond necklace with an estimate of $200,000 - $300,000 The Bass collection also includes 11 jewels by JAR, led by a necklace featuring 22 drop briolette emeralds with rows of faceted sapphire beads and round diamonds set in platinum and 18k white gold. Its estimate is $200,000 - $300,000. In a break from recent trends, colorless diamonds will play a significant role in Christie's June 17 auction. Among the standouts are: A 66.74-carat unmounted diamond with an estimate of $3.2 million - $4.2 million A 66.74-carat unmounted round brilliant-cut diamond with D color, VVS1 clarity and 'excellent cut, polish and symmetry,' according to the reports. The Type IIa diamond has an estimate of $3.2 million - $4.2 million. A platinum necklace with a 25.45-carat pear brilliant-cut flawless, D-color diamond with an estimate ... More of $1.5 million - $2 million A platinum necklace centered with a 25.45-carat pear brilliant-cut flawless, D-color diamond with an estimate of $1.5 million - $2 million. Harry Winston diamond pendant necklace with an estimate of $1.2 million - $1.8 million A platinum and 18k white gold necklace by Harry Winston featuring a 17.50-carat pear brilliant-cut diamond of D color and VVS1 clarity, 5.01-carat round brilliant-cut diamond D-color and SI1 clarity. The remainder of the necklace is covered with round, pear, emerald and marquise diamonds. Its estimate is $1.2 million - $1.8 million. A Harry Winston diamond diamond ring with an estimate of $1.2 million - $1.8 million. A platinum Harry Winston ring centered with a 23.26-carat internally flawless emerald-cut diamond with D-color flanked by shield-shaped diamonds. Its estimate is $1.2 million - $1.8 million. All 139 lots in the Christie's New York Magnificent Jewels auction will be on view at the auction house's Rockefeller Center headquarters from June 12 through June 16.
