What the Michelin Experience is like at Riccitelli Bistró

Time Out

11 hours ago

There are dining experiences that aim to dazzle with fireworks—and others that move you through simplicity and honesty, making you feel at home with a welcoming atmosphere created by the relaxed staff in casual uniforms, a garden surrounded by vineyards where sunlight sparkles on the glassware, and background music that could easily be a friend's playlist.
Riccitelli Bistró belongs to the latter. In this corner of Las Compuertas, the experience is warm, relaxed, close, and deeply rooted in Mendoza. With tables set on a veranda facing the garden and vineyard, this winery restaurant has just earned its first Michelin star and retains its 2024 Green Star for its sustainable approach and use of every single ingredient the Mendocinean soil provides.
But what's most striking is that everyone there—including chef Juan Ventureyra, whom we had the luxury of interviewing in depth —acts as if they haven't won any awards at all. Because they've never lost the joy of cooking, the commitment to showcasing local products, the simplicity of their space built inside a shipping container, or their desire for guests to leave with full hearts. And that's exactly what makes it unique.
Riccitelli: A Winery Bistro Where the Landscape Is Part of the Meal
Open only for lunch, the restaurant is part of the wine world of Matías Riccitelli, one of the leading names in modern Argentine winemaking. The concept was created by Juan Ventureyra, who runs the kitchen surrounded by squash, sage blossoms, fruit trees, and right beside an acequia —the traditional Mendocinean irrigation channels—lined with wild herbs and greens that go directly to the plate.
'Eighty percent of my cooking is plant-based, with a little meat, a little dairy, and a little flour, without sacrificing flavor or texture,' says the chef, who remains relaxed throughout service, stopping by every table to check in personally.
'80% of my cooking is plant-based, with a little meat, a little dairy, and a little flour—without sacrificing flavor or texture'
The philosophy at Riccitelli Bistró is crystal clear: showcase Mendoza on the plate. Serve what the fertile land gives, what's grown in the garden, and what irrigation nurtures through the acequia. All of it perfectly paired with the grandeur of the mountains and Matías Riccitelli's exceptional wines, which are presented tableside by his sister, Verónica Riccitelli.
What's on the Menu at Riccitelli Bistró?
The menu changes daily and seasonally, depending on what's available. It's usually a six-course tasting dubbed Menú Mendoza, though it includes much more than just six experiences: small plates delivered at an individual rhythm, delicate vinaigrettes and seasonings that enhance rather than mask the natural flavors of vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers.
The culinary journey began with a glass of Kung Fu Pet Nat and a trio of spreads: white bean purée, parsley oil, and a mint-carrot leaf mix, all served with fresh-baked crunchy bread.
Then came a series of colorful small plates served together: beet tartare with amaranth crackers, pickled radishes, and wild greens; cavolo nero with spring onion gremolata, almonds, and lemon; a mini black olive alfajor filled with ricotta, lemon, and mint; chestnut cream with orange syrup, wild fennel, and pink sage blossom. The parade of textures and colors went on.
In a shared plate: slices of seven radish varieties with baby carrots. In another: thinly sliced green apple parcels—like fogottinis—filled with pea cream and a mint center. These flavors paired perfectly with the 2024 Semillón Invader.
Here, wine is not the star of the show but a thoughtful complement—one that reflects the land. 'We don't talk about provinces; we refer to Argentina's ecoregions, because the ingredients carry the essence of the soil and climate—not of political divisions,' Juan explains, an idea that comes to life in his Menú Argentina.
'We refer to Argentina's ecoregions, not provinces'
For instance, a 2021 Pinot Noir Rosé from Río Negro is served with an unexpected winery dish: squid noodle soup. The squid is sliced into thin strips resembling noodles and served with miso, sesame, and mushrooms. 'This Patagonian wine is made just 100 km from the port where the squid is sourced,' Juan explains. 'We wanted to add a little coastal moisture and southern flavor for a regional and emotional pairing.'
A Pause, A Thousand Opportunities for Natural Contemplation
'I've always wanted people to spend more time outside the restaurant than inside,' says the chef, gazing at the lush garden. And it shows. Everything at Riccitelli Bistró is designed to connect with the surroundings: the acequias flowing between vineyard rows, pumpkins and peppers still in the garden, olive trees, wild edible roots, birdsong, and the flavor of a land that practically cooks itself.
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Between courses, guests are encouraged to stretch their legs, explore the garden, take in the mountain views, and see where each ingredient comes from. The experience invites you to relax, to feel at home—and yet, in a place that's one of a kind.
There's no rush. The pace follows each guest's rhythm and mood. After a lunch break, the journey continues: a cauliflower floret atop a carrot purée, with mizuna, mint, and toasted peanuts with cumin—leading up to the main meat course.
Unexpectedly, it's not a premium steak cut but a humble and perfect choice: asado ruso, a slow-cooked beef roll often found in Mendoza homes, served tender and juicy with a romesco sauce. To drink, the 2021 República de Malbec, a blend of grapes from Las Compuertas, San Pablo, Gualtallary, and Chacayes.
And the side dish? The so-called 'bomb plate,' a plant-based manifesto of sorts: over 30 varieties of garden greens and sprouts, served without dressing to let each one express its natural flavor. 'I suggest not mixing—just pick them up with your fork one by one and be surprised,' advises the chef.
A Final Gem
To close, a rare treasure: Riccitelli Rancio NV, a special wine made exclusively for the bistró, with no vintage and only 200 bottles a year. Aged for years in barrels and glass demijohns under the sun. Paired with a simple yet unforgettable dessert: a pear stuffed with almond frangipane, drizzled with caramel sauce over almond liqueur crème anglaise.
An herbal infusion and a fennel and mint profiterole wrapped up the journey. 'It's like an infusion from the acequia —the greens just grow wild on the banks,' Juan laughs. A delicate, balanced, and flavorful ending.
'You're teaching us to eat vegetables in a whole new way,' someone told Ventureyra after this incredible meal. He smiled and replied, 'What I do is highlight the place—tell the story of what the land gives, through a sensitive lens. That won't change, no matter what color the star is.'
A Personal, Sensitive, Joyful Project
Beyond the food, Riccitelli Bistró is an emotional experience. 'I invested all my savings to open this place and see what would happen. We were full for four years, then the pandemic hit—but we came back stronger than ever. This bistró is so full of adrenaline, so personal, so family-driven…' Juan shares.
There are no Sunday services, no dinner seatings. The restaurant only opens when the whole team is fully energized. 'That way I can share time with my family and friends. And if we're happy, our guests will be too.' Maybe that's why the Michelin star didn't change anything—it just affirmed the path.
So, what's next after this 'gastronomic Oscar'? Juan dreams of a greenhouse among the vines and garden beds, where people can eat while working the land and harvesting the food. 'Still, the goal remains the same: more connection, more nature, more sensitivity,' he says, with the passion of someone who truly loves vegetables.