Latest news with #RiccitelliBistró
Time Out
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- Time Out
What the Michelin Experience is like at Riccitelli Bistró
There are dining experiences that aim to dazzle with fireworks—and others that move you through simplicity and honesty, making you feel at home with a welcoming atmosphere created by the relaxed staff in casual uniforms, a garden surrounded by vineyards where sunlight sparkles on the glassware, and background music that could easily be a friend's playlist. Riccitelli Bistró belongs to the latter. In this corner of Las Compuertas, the experience is warm, relaxed, close, and deeply rooted in Mendoza. With tables set on a veranda facing the garden and vineyard, this winery restaurant has just earned its first Michelin star and retains its 2024 Green Star for its sustainable approach and use of every single ingredient the Mendocinean soil provides. But what's most striking is that everyone there—including chef Juan Ventureyra, whom we had the luxury of interviewing in depth —acts as if they haven't won any awards at all. Because they've never lost the joy of cooking, the commitment to showcasing local products, the simplicity of their space built inside a shipping container, or their desire for guests to leave with full hearts. And that's exactly what makes it unique. Riccitelli: A Winery Bistro Where the Landscape Is Part of the Meal Open only for lunch, the restaurant is part of the wine world of Matías Riccitelli, one of the leading names in modern Argentine winemaking. The concept was created by Juan Ventureyra, who runs the kitchen surrounded by squash, sage blossoms, fruit trees, and right beside an acequia —the traditional Mendocinean irrigation channels—lined with wild herbs and greens that go directly to the plate. 'Eighty percent of my cooking is plant-based, with a little meat, a little dairy, and a little flour, without sacrificing flavor or texture,' says the chef, who remains relaxed throughout service, stopping by every table to check in personally. '80% of my cooking is plant-based, with a little meat, a little dairy, and a little flour—without sacrificing flavor or texture' The philosophy at Riccitelli Bistró is crystal clear: showcase Mendoza on the plate. Serve what the fertile land gives, what's grown in the garden, and what irrigation nurtures through the acequia. All of it perfectly paired with the grandeur of the mountains and Matías Riccitelli's exceptional wines, which are presented tableside by his sister, Verónica Riccitelli. What's on the Menu at Riccitelli Bistró? The menu changes daily and seasonally, depending on what's available. It's usually a six-course tasting dubbed Menú Mendoza, though it includes much more than just six experiences: small plates delivered at an individual rhythm, delicate vinaigrettes and seasonings that enhance rather than mask the natural flavors of vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers. The culinary journey began with a glass of Kung Fu Pet Nat and a trio of spreads: white bean purée, parsley oil, and a mint-carrot leaf mix, all served with fresh-baked crunchy bread. Then came a series of colorful small plates served together: beet tartare with amaranth crackers, pickled radishes, and wild greens; cavolo nero with spring onion gremolata, almonds, and lemon; a mini black olive alfajor filled with ricotta, lemon, and mint; chestnut cream with orange syrup, wild fennel, and pink sage blossom. The parade of textures and colors went on. In a shared plate: slices of seven radish varieties with baby carrots. In another: thinly sliced green apple parcels—like fogottinis—filled with pea cream and a mint center. These flavors paired perfectly with the 2024 Semillón Invader. Here, wine is not the star of the show but a thoughtful complement—one that reflects the land. 'We don't talk about provinces; we refer to Argentina's ecoregions, because the ingredients carry the essence of the soil and climate—not of political divisions,' Juan explains, an idea that comes to life in his Menú Argentina. 'We refer to Argentina's ecoregions, not provinces' For instance, a 2021 Pinot Noir Rosé from Río Negro is served with an unexpected winery dish: squid noodle soup. The squid is sliced into thin strips resembling noodles and served with miso, sesame, and mushrooms. 'This Patagonian wine is made just 100 km from the port where the squid is sourced,' Juan explains. 'We wanted to add a little coastal moisture and southern flavor for a regional and emotional pairing.' A Pause, A Thousand Opportunities for Natural Contemplation 'I've always wanted people to spend more time outside the restaurant than inside,' says the chef, gazing at the lush garden. And it shows. Everything at Riccitelli Bistró is designed to connect with the surroundings: the acequias flowing between vineyard rows, pumpkins and peppers still in the garden, olive trees, wild edible roots, birdsong, and the flavor of a land that practically cooks itself. Also of interest: The route through 9 Michelin Guide recommended restaurants Between courses, guests are encouraged to stretch their legs, explore the garden, take in the mountain views, and see where each ingredient comes from. The experience invites you to relax, to feel at home—and yet, in a place that's one of a kind. There's no rush. The pace follows each guest's rhythm and mood. After a lunch break, the journey continues: a cauliflower floret atop a carrot purée, with mizuna, mint, and toasted peanuts with cumin—leading up to the main meat course. Unexpectedly, it's not a premium steak cut but a humble and perfect choice: asado ruso, a slow-cooked beef roll often found in Mendoza homes, served tender and juicy with a romesco sauce. To drink, the 2021 República de Malbec, a blend of grapes from Las Compuertas, San Pablo, Gualtallary, and Chacayes. And the side dish? The so-called 'bomb plate,' a plant-based manifesto of sorts: over 30 varieties of garden greens and sprouts, served without dressing to let each one express its natural flavor. 'I suggest not mixing—just pick them up with your fork one by one and be surprised,' advises the chef. A Final Gem To close, a rare treasure: Riccitelli Rancio NV, a special wine made exclusively for the bistró, with no vintage and only 200 bottles a year. Aged for years in barrels and glass demijohns under the sun. Paired with a simple yet unforgettable dessert: a pear stuffed with almond frangipane, drizzled with caramel sauce over almond liqueur crème anglaise. An herbal infusion and a fennel and mint profiterole wrapped up the journey. 'It's like an infusion from the acequia —the greens just grow wild on the banks,' Juan laughs. A delicate, balanced, and flavorful ending. 'You're teaching us to eat vegetables in a whole new way,' someone told Ventureyra after this incredible meal. He smiled and replied, 'What I do is highlight the place—tell the story of what the land gives, through a sensitive lens. That won't change, no matter what color the star is.' A Personal, Sensitive, Joyful Project Beyond the food, Riccitelli Bistró is an emotional experience. 'I invested all my savings to open this place and see what would happen. We were full for four years, then the pandemic hit—but we came back stronger than ever. This bistró is so full of adrenaline, so personal, so family-driven…' Juan shares. There are no Sunday services, no dinner seatings. The restaurant only opens when the whole team is fully energized. 'That way I can share time with my family and friends. And if we're happy, our guests will be too.' Maybe that's why the Michelin star didn't change anything—it just affirmed the path. So, what's next after this 'gastronomic Oscar'? Juan dreams of a greenhouse among the vines and garden beds, where people can eat while working the land and harvesting the food. 'Still, the goal remains the same: more connection, more nature, more sensitivity,' he says, with the passion of someone who truly loves vegetables.
Time Out
10-06-2025
- Time Out
What are Pét-Nat wines and which ones to try?
This bi-varietal Pinot Noir and Malbec is made with grapes from high-altitude vineyards, located at 1,400 meters above sea level, in Gualtallary, Uco Valley. The manual harvest took place in early February to maintain the integrity of the clusters. You might also be interested in: Juan Ventureyra, the world's tomato seed collector It's a low-intervention sparkling wine, so it has no added sulfites, is neither clarified nor stabilized. It presents a salmon pink color and aromas of white fruits and citrus; its acidity makes it fresh and elegant. The tip: This winery houses Riccitelli Bistró, the restaurant awarded a red star and a green star by the Michelin Guide 2025, thus retaining the one obtained in 2024. Juan Ventureira is the chef who conceived the in-house garden and designs sustainable gastronomy.
Time Out
05-05-2025
- General
- Time Out
Juan Ventureyra, the tomato seed collector from around the world
Mendoza changes color with the tomato season, and the calendar marks an event that has become a tradition: grandmothers, children, and grandchildren gather at a home to make tomato sauce and preserve fresh tomatoes for the winter. The greengrocers are dressed in red from February to April to begin this ritual, which is a production chain: washing, peeling, cooking, crushing, and bottling. This moment of gathering becomes a true transmission of recipes and secrets between generations, and it is such a quintessential act of Mendoza that when chef Juan Ventureyra arrived in the province from his native Buenos Aires, he was surprised and realized that Mendoza is as much a "tomato region" as it is a wine region. 'Until I arrived in the province, ten years ago, I didn't know the custom of gathering to can tomatoes in various methods... I went crazy and thought, 'How is it that in wineries people talk about meat and wine but not about tomatoes?' when in every house, people talk about tomatoes, and there are pantries filled with jars of preserves,' reveals the chef who leads the kitchen at Riccitelli Bistró, a restaurant that recently earned its first Michelin star. The chef, who also retained the Green Star awarded by the Michelin Guide in 2024, arrived in Mendoza with seeds from 50 varieties of tomatoes, and this summer, his collection grew to 92. He established vegetable gardens in his restaurants and introduced the idea that it should be the chef who works with the harvest of vegetables, which will then be served fresh and pure in the dishes. Where his obsession with collecting tomato seeds began "My first garden is in Olivos, at my house," shares Ventureyra, who, while working at Astor Bistró (Colegiales) alongside chef Antonio Soriano, discovered the fascinating world of vegetable seeds: "A producer brought me a white tomato, I tried it, and we created a dish entirely in white with all ingredients of that color. That's when the lightbulb went off for me—to keep the seeds from the products that entered the kitchen, dehydrate them, and take them to spread in my 30-square-meter garden." That same summer, Ventureyra started looking online to see where he could buy seeds from other parts of the world, and his surprise came when he was able to access that "powdered gold." 'I was in my twenties, and I remember finding a biodynamic seed producer in Missouri, USA, and I asked for a small packet; when I had it in my hands, I made a deal with the producer of the white tomato, giving him the seeds in exchange for exclusivity for the first year, and that's how it all began; our own vegetables were reaching the table." In Buenos Aires, and just back from France, Juan received a call that would change his postal code once again. It was chef Lucas Bustos who invited him to work in Mendoza, and it was at that moment that the chapter of Ventureyra's story in the western Argentine province began. "They gave me half a hectare, and I created my own garden at Ruca Malen winery; all throughout the first year, I worked the land for six hours a day, before and after each restaurant service,' the "fan of wine and vegetables" as he describes himself on Instagram, explains. "They gave me half a hectare, and I created my own garden at Ruca Malen winery; all throughout the first year, I worked the land for six hours a day, before and after each restaurant service" Leaving everything behind, the chef knocked on the door of winemaker Matías Riccitelli and proposed opening a vegetable-focused restaurant at Riccitelli Wines, an innovative idea for 2018, as there were no wineries offering gastronomic experiences in the Las Compuertas area (Luján de Cuyo). "He trusted me, and we opened in February 2020, and he was surprised when the first employee I hired wasn't a cook, but Nolberto, my seed keeper, who still works with me and is in charge of supplying my kitchen," says Juan. With this, the chef recognized by the Michelin Guide in 2024 and 2025 showed that in order to serve their own vegetables, they had to plant them in advance so they would be ready when Riccitelli Bistró opened its doors. "From that moment, we began to talk about the Mendoza vegetable and the tomato as our flag," he says, adding: "Today we have 500 square meters of garden at the winery and another garden in the Maipú department; Nolberto has my biodynamic seeds, he does all the agroecological work in the land, all manually and without pesticides, because in my menu, I offer the real flavor of vegetables." "In my menu, I offer the real flavor of vegetables" Tomato seeds from every corner of the world In 2024, Juan harvested 84 varieties of tomatoes, and this year he doubled the bet, reaching 95. 'One always tries to plant more varieties to make certain dishes, but it almost never goes well because nature is capricious; one wants to anticipate the planning of a menu because they get to know the types of tomatoes, but this year, for example, it didn't work out; there was little production due to the frosts and rains. Some years, we produce 3000 kilos of tomatoes, and others only 1000,' Ventureyra details. "The truth is, I no longer seek to have so many new varieties, but rather to perfect our work, though sometimes I get carried away and add a few," says the chef, laughing, and adds: "When our variety deteriorates, we do buy seeds without altering them to return to the original genetics." Something else he does is exchange seeds with other producers from Córdoba, Mar del Plata, Jujuy, the United States, Italy, France, and Chile. 'There is camaraderie between us,' he points out. Just as with Mendoza's tradition, Juan preserves tomatoes and other vegetables; in his pantry, you can find ketchup, sriracha, different sauces, jam, and chutney, among other preparations. 'Not all the varieties of tomatoes I plant are good for preserving, most have very high acidity, and it's hard to reduce it when cooking. Each tomato has a specific use when processed, even though all can be eaten fresh, just picked,' explains the seed enthusiast. Among his favorite tomato varieties is the Green Zebra, which produces a dark yellow fruit almost green with darker green stripes; at home, for pasta, he uses the classic San Marzano, and for salads, the Blue Wagner, which looks red and black on the outside and green on the inside. 'Not all tomatoes are the same, and what varies isn't just the visual part; the skins, the number of seeds, and the amount of flesh each has vary; it's incredible and delicious,' he emphasizes. "Not all tomatoes are the same. The skins, the number of seeds, and the amount of flesh each has vary" Juan Ventureyra and the art of transforming the culinary experience Juan Ventureyra is a kind of culinary magician who transforms diners who visit his restaurant. When someone enters, they talk and think about cuts of meat, but once they leave, they are fascinated by vegetables. In fact, the welcome at Riccitelli Bistró is with an exhibition of over 90 varieties of tomatoes, 15 varieties of chili peppers, 6 varieties of eggplants, and so on… "Everything is on a 5-meter-long counter, all products that come from the garden, allowing diners to understand what they will be eating that day," the chef explains. The first thing guests try at the bistró is a tomato platter, recommended to be eaten without any additions like salt or oil so they can recognize the differences in acidity, sweetness, crunchiness, or softness of the skins, and even the water content each variety takes from the land. And if anyone wants to try one from the garden, it is open for visitors to experience harvesting and tasting fresh produce. 'Here, I achieved my maximum expression of the concept I wanted, which I started a decade ago; I don't exclude meat, I respect my cooking style, which is 80% vegetables and 20% with some dairy, some flour, and some meat,' clarifies Ventureyra, who highlights the ease this provides when dealing with dietary restrictions: "No one will have to stop eating anything, and there won't be any improvisation in a dish." "I don't exclude meat, I respect my cooking style, which is 80% vegetables and 20% with some dairy, some flour, and some meat" It's worth highlighting that Ventureyra's menus are truly seasonal, meaning he only cooks with what the garden provides. If a vegetable is no longer available, he adapts the dish to whatever is available. 'The structure of my dishes always includes a vegetable from our own production and one wild edible; conceptually, it's very long to explain because it involves many ingredients; I suggest how to eat it so that the diner can discover each product or technique used,' says the chef. Juan's passion for vegetable and tomato seeds transcends the kitchen and garden. Ventureyra is a guardian of flavors, a defender of biodiversity, and a storyteller through the local seasonal product. For those who try his tomatoes, the gastronomic experience goes beyond taste: it's a rediscovery of a product that, although common, can be a true work of art when cultivated with passion.
