This Resort in Virginia Wine Country Has 20 Acres of Trails and a Miniature Horse Named Cupcake

Travel + Leisure

2 days ago

The sprawling resort is nestled at the heart of Virginia's horse and wine country and provides 200 acres of natural trails for hiking, biking, and horseback riding.
The 14,000-square-foot equestrian center is home to 22 stalls and another 25 acres dedicated to entry-level facilities, offering equestrian activities to travelers as young as two years old.
The resort maintains three beehives that house approximately 100,000 bees, producing honey used in the resort's restaurants.
The 23,000-square-foot Salamander Spa has a private courtyard with a heated infinity-edge pool and cabanas.
From the moment I arrived at Salamander Middleburg, I felt a sense of calm. The sprawling 340-acre resort is surrounded by the rolling hills of Virginia's horse and wine country, and, throughout my four-day stay, I found myself breathing a little deeper, walking a little slower, and relishing the little moments.
Just an hour outside Washington, D.C., but a world away from the rush of the capital, the resort offers a luxurious hideaway with crackling fireplaces, farm-to-table dining, wide-open views of the Blue Ridge Mountains, and a spa that begs you to cancel your plans. It's the kind of escape that makes you look around and wonder why you don't do this more often. Lounge furniture on the Living Room Outdoor Terrace.
My mornings started with breakfast at Harrimans, the resort's signature restaurant, or a cozy in-room spread. I spent afternoons unwinding at the spa, sipping Virginia wine at a nearby vineyard, or participating in on-site activities like zip lining and axe throwing. My evenings included dinners at the resort or in the nearby town of Middleburg, just down the road.
On my first day, I visited the stables. The 14,000-square-foot barn is home to 22 stalls, and it's open for guests to explore. I ended up riding a sweet and steady horse named Teddy, and we set off on a beautiful guided ride through the hotel's trails, which are also used for hiking and biking. A cozy fire place lights the Library.
Justin Kriel/Salamander Middleburg
Salamander Middleburg is the vision of entrepreneur and BET co-founder Sheila Johnson, who sought to create a destination that celebrates Virginia's equestrian heritage while delivering exceptional hospitality. Reminiscent of an English manor, but with Southern charm, it's the flagship property of the Salamander Collection, which also includes Half Moon in Jamaica and Salamander DC.
Throughout the resort, you'll find subtle nods to foxhunting, equestrian-themed elements, copper and bronze accents, and barn-inspired structures. The resort's living room features high-beamed ceilings and overstuffed chairs that invite you to sit, sip, and stay for quiet conversations over a glass of wine or morning coffee. There's no rush to check your phone or power through a to-do list. Instead, there's an ease that's rare and deeply refreshing.
Below, my full review of Salamander Middleburg.
The resort's 168 guest rooms and suites, designed by Thomas Pheasant, enhance the feeling of a country estate with soothing natural tones. Accommodations feature spa-inspired bathrooms with dual sinks, multi-jet showers, pedestal tubs, and fireplaces in select rooms. Each room opens onto a private stone terrace or balcony overlooking manicured grounds. For an elevated stay, the Owner's Suite provides expansive living and dining areas, two fireplaces, and curated pieces from Johnson's personal art collection.
I checked into a 575-square-foot Deluxe Queen Estate Room with a fireplace, and enjoyed the layout, which incorporated spaces to relax, work, and dine. Two wardrobe closets flanked a vanity-style mirror and bench, while a generous desk with a rolling chair made it easy to get some work done. Cushioned benches sit in front of a cozy half-tester queen-size bed framed by graceful copper-hued drapery. A sitting area near the balcony turned out to be the perfect spot for morning coffee, afternoon tea, or an evening glass of wine.
Gold Cup Wine Bar is an inviting spot for a casual bite or a relaxed dinner with a menu that includes tempura sesame cauliflower and miso-glazed black cod. Open every day from 11 a.m. through late evening, the restaurant has a billiards table, live piano music on Friday and Saturday nights, and a seven-seat bar. I ordered the spicy tuna and Gold Cup sushi rolls, lychee margarita, and a trio of single scoops of cherry coconut, lychee, and guava orange sorbets.
Harrimans is the resort's signature dining destination, where many of the dishes are prepared with products sourced from the resort's garden or nearby farms. The à la carte breakfast has something for every taste—from classics like pancakes and omelettes to pastries and health-conscious fare like smoothies, avocado toast, and acai bowls. The resort's buffet-style Sunday brunch is one of the region's best, featuring cooking demonstrations, a made-to-order omelette station, and a live jazz ensemble.
For dinner, the restaurant serves a variety of seafood, plant-based, and beef dishes with international influences. I tried the freshly baked sourdough bread, chargrilled octopus with Italian butter beans, pea and lobster mezzaluna pasta, and an enticing raspberry and passion fruit dessert with almond sable, passionfruit gel, meringue, and mascarpone ice cream. Sun setting over the resort's equestrian center.
The resort excels at helping guests reconnect—with themselves, with nature, and with their sense of adventure. During my stay, I decided to try axe throwing and archery for the first time, and I was hooked. I also soared through the treetops on the resort's zip line course.
If you're looking for something a little less adrenaline-inducing, Salamander Middleburg has a 3,500-square-foot fitness center, an indoor pool, and a dry sauna. Guests can also sign up for classes, such as water yoga, Pilates, and meditation. Private fitness sessions and personal training are available for an additional fee. The resort's new outdoor pool and terrace have poolside service and include separate areas for children and adults.
The resort leans heavily into Middleburg's moniker of The Nation's Horse and Hunt Capital, with its 14,000-square-foot equestrian center, equipped with a professional riding arena and nine paddocks. Guests can explore the surrounding trails on horseback, participate in the resort's equestrian programs, and even bring their own horses.
The warm welcome isn't just for horses—dogs are treated like VIPs, too, with canine-centric amenities like in-room beds and organic dog treats.
At the 23,000-square-foot Salamander Spa, guests can choose from an extensive menu of treatments, including the signature Calming Antara Ritual and Grand Cru Massage. The sprawling wellness space features aromatic steam rooms, relaxation areas, and a private courtyard with a heated infinity-edge pool and plush cabanas.
Before my massage, I soaked in the vitality pool, equipped with hydrotherapy jets, that sits beneath a stunning 14-foot domed ceiling. I also stretched out on the heated tepidarium loungers and lingered in the relaxation lounge, sipping strawberry-infused water and snacking on light bites. My 60-minute Salamander Signature Massage left me feeling completely renewed. Cupcake, the miniature horse.
Salamander Middleburg has 45 rooms with double queen beds and 12 connecting rooms and suites, suitable for families. In addition, the hotel has a kid-friendly outdoor pool. Children under nine years old receive complimentary meals all day at Gold Cup Wine Bar, as well as breakfast at Harrimans, when accompanied by an adult guest of the resort.
Parents can drop off their kids at Camp Salamander, a dedicated program of fun activities like scavenger hunts and crafts, available daily for children aged four to 10. In keeping with its equestrian theme, the resort provides kid-friendly horseback rides and interactive programs such as Paint-a-Pony, where children learn about horse breeds and markings.
A highlight for many is meeting Cupcake, the resort's beloved miniature horse. When she's not at the equestrian center, Cupcake makes regular appearances on The Grand Lawn every Friday and Saturday to greet her adoring fans. Parents can also join the fun with the signature Cupcake Cocktail from Gold Cup Wine Bar, topped with rainbow sprinkles.
The resort has eight ADA-compliant rooms, including four with king-size beds and four with double queen-size beds. All have strobe lighting and audio fire alarm systems, as well as roll-in showers with raised benches, lowered vanities, and thermostats.
Salamander Middleburg is LEED Silver certified, with many sustainable features integrated into guest experiences and daily operations. Approximately 200 acres of the resort's grounds are protected under a conservation easement. Its environmental initiatives include the planting of 150 trees and the implementation of advanced water and wastewater treatment systems.
The resort also maintains a fully operational on-site garden, cultivated by the culinary team, which supplies fresh, seasonal ingredients for Harrimans and guest cooking classes. Efforts to minimize the resort's environmental footprint are ongoing, including a significant reduction in single-use plastics. Recently, refill stations were installed on every guest floor, encouraging visitors to refill their water bottles throughout their stay. Additionally, three Tesla charging stations are available for guest use.
The interior of the Living Room.
Justin Kriel/Salamander Middleburg
Salamander Middleburg is located in the charming historic town of Middleburg, Virginia, approximately 45 miles from Washington, D.C. Founded in 1787, Middleburg has been drawing equestrians, fox hunters, and political figures, including U.S. presidents and dignitaries. The town's streets are lined with Federal-style buildings, quaint boutiques, antique shops, and inviting coffee shops.
Visitors can explore local history at the National Sporting Library & Museum, sip award-winning wines at nearby vineyards like Greenhill Winery and Cana Vineyards, and take scenic hikes and drives through the rolling countryside.
Salamander Middleburg is part of Preferred Hotels & Resorts' I Prefer loyalty program. Members enjoy exclusive rates and discounts, early check-in and late check-out when available, room upgrades, and complimentary WiFi.
The resort is also included in American Express' Fine Hotels+Resorts portfolio, offering cardholders a $100 resort credit, room upgrades, and daily breakfast for two.
For the latest seasonal packages and discounts, check out the resort's website.
Nightly rates at Salamander Middleburg start from $595.
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