British mountaineer breaks own record for most Everest climbs by a non-Sherpa
British mountaineer and guide Kenton Cool has broken his own record for the most ascents of Mount Everest by a non-Sherpa, reaching the summit for the 19th time on Sunday. The 51-year-old, originally from southwest England, stood atop the world's tallest peak—at 29,032 feet—accompanied by Nepali Sherpa Dorji Gyaljen.
Cool's latest climb, supported by Himalayan Guides Nepal, comes two decades after his first Everest summit in 2004. Since then, he has scaled the mountain almost every year, missing only a few seasons due to exceptional circumstances such as the 2014 avalanche, the 2015 earthquake-triggered disaster, and the 2020 pandemic-related closure.
Cool's milestone has been praised by fellow adventurers. American mountaineer Adrian Ballinger, currently guiding a team on Everest, told Reuters: 'His experience, charisma, and strength make him a valuable part of the Everest community.' Jordanian mountaineer Mostafa Salameh, one of only 20 people to complete the Explorers Grand Slam, wrote, 'Amazing, Kenton.'
Over the years, Cool has also guided several high-profile climbers, including British explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes.
Cool's record-breaking climb comes in a season that has already seen tragedy.
In the first reported fatalities this climbing season, a climber from India was among the two people who died Thursday while attempting to summit Mount Everest, according to hiking officials cited by Reuters. Another climber was from the Philippines. He was tired when he reached the fourth high camp and died while resting in his tent, as per a tourism department official.
Despite these risks, hundreds of climbers flock to Everest during the brief spring window when weather conditions are favourable. This window typically closes by the end of May, as the monsoon season sets in and makes climbing treacherous.
Only a few days each year offer the calm, clear, and relatively warm weather needed for climbers to survive at the Mount Everest. These brief periods—known as 'weather windows'—typically fall in mid to late May, making it the prime time for summit attempts.
While Cool holds the record among non-Sherpas, Nepali guides continue to lead in total summits. Dorji Gyaljen, who climbed alongside Cool, completed his 23rd ascent. Meanwhile, legendary Sherpa Kami Rita currently holds the overall record with 30 summits and is once again on the mountain this season, aiming for another.
(With inputs from BBC, CNN)
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