How To Wear Your Watch Like A Fashion Editor: Bvlgari's Serpenti Aeterna
Have you ever reinvented yourself? Let me tell you something, it ain't easy. You will never entirely escape your fundamentals – your genetics, epi-genetics, the lifetime of experiences and loved ones that have shaped who you are. But you can, with a lot of thought, some time, and a tonne of soul searching, reimagine yourself a little and re-emerge, ready to take on a new chapter. No one knows this better than Bvlgari's Serpenti.
First designed in 1948, the behemoth brand's now iconic snake-inspired timepieces come with a legacy unlike any other jewellery watch of the 20th century. The earliest iterations showcased the Tubogas technique – a coiled bracelet inspired by gas pipes that drew on the utilitarian design movement of the era – and cleverly concealed a delicate watch dial in each serpent's head. The design shot to fame in the 1960s when Elizabeth Taylor was photographed wearing one on the set of Cleopatra, filmed in Rome; the very birthplace of Bvlgari. The Serpenti was, at that time, the ultimate It watch.
More than 75 years later, the Serpenti has had too many glow-ups to count. Double-spiral bracelets, mechanical movements, a rainbow of gems and a veritable paintbox of colour palettes later, the Serpenti has managed to emerge as one of the most enduring designs of women's watchmaking history, despite its chameleon-like qualities. For 2025, however, there's a mic drop. The Serpenti hasn't been reimagined, it has been reborn. No scales, no eyes, no coils; the Serpenti Aeterna introduces a whole new design language, a vocabulary which according to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the maison's head of horology, is founded on the irresistible Italian concept of sprezzatura – the art of appearing effortlessly elegant, when great effort has indeed been made behind the scenes.
This is the thing about Bvlgari, we do crazy things, in an effortless way,' smiles Fabrizio, introducing his new sleek and slinky creation at this year's Watches & Wonders show. He explains that the watch was designed to coincide with the maison's Aeterna high jewellery presentation, which with its contemplation of eternity, encouraged him to contemplate the future of the iconic snake silhouette. Fabrizio is adamant, however, that it wasn't a sculptural approach that brought this reptile to reality, rather simple pen strokes upon the page that set its svelte lines. 'Sculptural design can end up looking cold. The Aeterna doesn't look cold, it's gorgeous; you can see the Bvlgari proportions and it's bold. It has a very simple boldness.' The secret? 'There are golden rules, there is geometry, in the end it's mathematics, but it's also a secret and a mystery,' he quips.
Fabrizio refers to the Serpenti Aeterna as a 'wow upon the wrist,' and it is this that makes it so wearable with, well frankly, anything. Crafted in 18-karat white or rose gold, dazzling with snow-set diamonds, this is a watch to be worn with an evening dress after dark, but by day? With whatever. Take Miu Miu's Breton stripe top – ultra chic when paired with shorts by Gucci, slung with chains by Tiffany&Co. and finished with this season's cult loafers-cum-sneakers. The perfect laidback-luxe look for a day's yachting, the Serpenti Aeterna's chilled-out charisma wouldn't look remotely out of place. The embodiment of contemporary classicism, it will morph to suit burlap or ballgowns, both timeless and timely.
'It's the beginning of something,' says Fabrizio. 'In Italy, when you cook the pasta, there's a precise moment that the pasta is done. Maybe we are early. Maybe we are late. I don't know. We will see,' he laughs. He isn't, however, proud of his latest timepiece. 'I'm always thinking about the next challenge, and it's never perfect. As a designer, if I was entirely content, it would be time for me to retire. You can always improve.' Amen to that.
All Imagery Supplied
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