Modest Fashion at a Crossroads
The author has shared a Podcast. You will need to accept and consent to the use of cookies and similar technologies by our third-party partners (including: YouTube, Instagram or Twitter), in order to view embedded content in this article and others you may visit in future.
Listen to and follow the BoF Podcast:Apple Podcasts | Spotify | Overcast Background:
It's a pivotal moment for modest fashion. Spending by Muslim consumers on fashion is projected to hit $428 billion by 2027, marking significant annual growth. Yet despite booming demand, modest fashion remains commercially fragmented and struggles for global recognition.
Emirati fashion designer Rabia Zargarpur founded her namesake brand after confronting the severe lack of modest clothing options in post-9/11 America. Driven by a personal need, she launched her brand from her grandfather's garage in Silicon Valley, determined to bring modest fashion to mainstream runways.
'In 2000, you couldn't even find modest basics — long sleeves, or something that would cover your hips,' Zargarpur says. 'That was a huge aha moment for me. We are so neglected. Why isn't there a single label catering to the needs of our women? And so I took charge and created my brand, Rabia Z.'
Kerim Türe, founder of the Istanbul-based modest fashion e-tailer Modanisa, initially tried to convince existing brands to move online. When they declined, Türe took matters into his own hands, building a global e-commerce powerhouse from scratch.
'The clothes we put on ourselves, a piece of fabric, it's part of our identity, part of our self-confidence,' Türe says. 'We believe all women deserve to look their best without compromising their beliefs.'
For Linda Anggrea, founder of Indonesian modest fashion brand Buttonscarves and CEO of the Modinity Group, the absence of modest fashion brands in major Indonesian shopping malls was glaring. She seized the opportunity, growing her brand from a single scarf line to a multi-brand group with over 100 retail locations across Southeast Asia.
'We want to feel good about ourselves, we want to feel comfortable,' Anggrea says. 'If we put that concept into whatever we are doing, it will easily translate into a good collection but still fit modest values.'
This week on The BoF Podcast, in a compelling conversation with Forbes Middle East presenter Sally Mousa, at BoF CROSSROADS 2025, Rabia Zargarpur, Kerim Türe, and Linda Anggrea explore the growing influence of modest fashion, discuss its evolving presence in mainstream markets, and outline the steps necessary for sustainable growth, authentic collaborations, and global recognition. The author has shared a YouTube video. You will need to accept and consent to the use of cookies and similar technologies by our third-party partners (including: YouTube, Instagram or Twitter), in order to view embedded content in this article and others you may visit in future. Key Insights: Authenticity is vital as modest fashion gains mainstream popularity. 'There needs to be authenticity and they need to understand our values and work with us. If they work with [us], they would have better solutions,' says Zargarpur. Highlighting the transparency of superficial engagement by mainstream brands she adds, 'We're not just about caftans. All we see in the Ramadan collections and edits is the blingy caftan again, but we're more than that. We're about sustainability, ethical practices, creativity and innovation. Why can't you make that kind of stuff for me the way you do for your other consumers?'
The industry stands at a pivotal crossroads between short-term individual success and long-term collective growth. Anggrea underscores the importance of unity, even within her own brands: 'We're at a crossroads whether we want to go fast alone or go far together. Each brand has its own voice, but we have one shared mission. That modest fashion is not only accepted, but actually expected in all fashion runways, global fashion week, and every retail space all around the world.'
Supporting emerging designers is essential for the future of modest fashion. 'We need more and more brands coming from inside,' says Türe. 'The designers and the business people need to come together.' He adds, 'We are the colonised South. We need to bring our own branch to the world right now.' Additional Resources:
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Yahoo
32 minutes ago
- Yahoo
Trump and Xi Hold First Call in Months
Chinese President Xi Jinping is seen at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in Hanoi on April 15, 2025. Credit - Athit Perawongmetha—POOL/AFP via Getty Images) Trump and Xi Hold First Call in Months, Setting Stage For More Trade Talks President Donald Trump spoke with Chinese leader Xi Jinping on Thursday as tariff negotiations between the world's two largest economies have stalled in recent weeks. The call lasted about 90 minutes and focused 'almost entirely on trade,' Trump said in a social media post Thursday morning. Talks had been expected to take place this week after representatives from both countries met in Geneva last month and agreed to temporarily pause the trade war. China's official Xinhua News Agency said the call took place at Trump's request. Trump said a follow-up trade meeting would be held soon, and that both he and Xi had invited each other for official state visits. Trump said one day earlier that it was difficult to reach a deal with Xi: 'I like President XI of China, always have, and always will, but he is VERY TOUGH, AND EXTREMELY HARD TO MAKE A DEAL WITH!!!,' Trump wrote on Truth Social on Wednesday. The call was likely the first time they spoke since Trump took office in January. However, in an April interview with TIME, Trump claimed that Xi had already called him—which Chinese officials disputed. Trade negotiations between the two leaders had stalled after both countries agreed on May 12 to temporarily lower tariffs, with Trump dropping his 145% tariffs on Chinese goods to 30% for 90 days, and Xi easing its levies from 125% to 10%. But the Trump Administration has accused China of reneging on the terms by curbing exports of rare earth minerals used by American manufacturers. China has rejected that charge, saying its export controls apply globally and are not targeted at the United States. In response, the Trump Administration has proposed revoking visas for some Chinese students and issuing new export controls on advanced technologies such as jet engine components and A.I. chips. 'China, perhaps not surprisingly to some, HAS TOTALLY VIOLATED ITS AGREEMENT WITH US,' Trump wrote on Truth Social last week. 'So much for being Mr. NICE GUY!' Trump has made reducing America's dependency on Chinese manufacturing a cornerstone of his second-term agenda. Xi, facing a sluggish post-COVID economy and persistent pressures from a real estate slowdown, is pushing to secure China's dominance in future technologies like electric vehicles and artificial intelligence. The United States ran a $295 billion trade deficit with China in 2024, according to U.S. Census Bureau data, a figure Trump frequently cites as evidence of unfair trade practices. His Administration maintains that only top-level talks can break the current deadlock. Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent recently said that a leader-to-leader exchange was essential to restart negotiations in earnest. Write to Nik Popli at
Yahoo
34 minutes ago
- Yahoo
Etihad Airways hires 747 operator Western Global to expand cargo service
Etihad Airways has enlisted U.S.-based Western Global Airlines, still struggling to recover after exiting bankruptcy 18 months ago, to support expanded freighter service to China and London by operating a Boeing 747-400 on its behalf, FreightWaves has learned. The airline's cargo division in April announced it was adding three weekly all-cargo flights to Shenzhen, China, and two weekly flights to London Stansted Airport via its Abu Dhabi hub to meet growing demand on key trade lanes. Etihad Cargo, which operates five Boeing 777 freighters and manages belly cargo carried by passenger aircraft, said it was supplementing its capacity with a wet-leased 747 cargo jet from an unnamed provider to carry e-commerce, pharmaceuticals, perishables and other goods between Asia, Europe and the Middle East. After several weeks of delay, Etihad appears ready to commence the new freighter service. Etihad Cargo officials declined to identify the airline providing the outsourced transportation service, but an email response from a media representative inadvertently included program details from someone else in the company who was copied on a reporter's to the message, Etihad has signed a contract with Western Global. FreightWaves has known about the arrangement for a month but waited to publish a story until there were signs that service had materialized. As of early June, the new freighter services had yet to commence, flight tracking data shows. But a Boeing 747-400 operated by Western Global landed on Tuesday at Shenzhen Bao'an International Airport, according to Flightradar24. An industry source, who asked not to be identified to protect ongoing business relationships, confirmed the presence of the Western Global freighter in Shenzhen. The Western Global capacity will give Etihad Cargo 17 weekly freighter rotations per week, up from the current 14, to China, with one more flight expected to be added later this year, according to company officials. Etihad finished last year with 11 direct flights to China. The goal for 18 freighter flights per week is down from the 23 planned flights Etihad promised in January. Privately held Western Global early this decade had a fleet of 21 freighter aircraft. It reorganized under bankruptcy protection in 2023 because of falling revenues as freight markets normalized from pandemic highs, a high debt load and rising maintenance costs for its aging fleet. The company now operates seven freighters. Only four of its 17 MD-11 cargo jets are currently in service, according to aircraft Global Airlines lost $33 million last year, an improvement from 2023's $62 million loss, according to U.S. Department of Transportation data. Operating revenue improved 1.9% last year to $213 million but was outpaced by $240 million in operating costs. Revenue per ton mile improved nearly 15% to 89 cents. Earlier this week, Etihad and China's SF Airlines agreed to expand their August 2023 capacity-sharing agreement under which they conduct freighter flights to their respective home bases in Abu Dhabi and Ezhou to increase connectivity for each other's customers. Last year, the two companies increased freighter frequency on that route and launched a new service between Shenzhen and Abu Dhabi. Etihad helps SF Airlines, the private airline of SF Express, reach Europe by transferring parcels in Abu Dhabi to passenger aircraft and freighters serving the continent. Etihad benefits because SF has more traffic rights out of China and Hong Kong than Etihad, while Etihad can reach more destinations in Europe, the Middle East and India than SF Airlines. The business arrangement calls for the airlines to jointly market and integrate their airfreight services with the aim of increasing cargo capacity, flexibility, tailored products, service efficiency and the range of available destinations for shippers. The partners said they will also coordinate pricing strategies and route allocation, and align service standards. The joint venture will focus on supporting the movement of high-value electronics, sensitive equipment and temperature-controlled pharmaceutical goods. 'By working closely with SF Airlines, we are expanding our service offerings, optimising operational efficiency and enhancing our competitive position in the air cargo industry,' said Etihad Airways CEO Antonoaldo Neves in a news release. Etihad Cargo this week also committed to strengthening its presence at Ezhou Huahu Airport by adding flights, opening new routes and developing joint products that support cross-border e-commerce, cold chain logistics and high-value manufacturing. Etihad Cargo currently operates four Boeing 777 freighters per week to Ezhou Huahu Airport. The airport, which opened in 2022, is Asia's first dedicated cargo airport and includes 135 aircraft stands, dual runways and the capacity to handle 1.1 million tons of cargo annually. Etihad's cargo division this week also introduced a high-tech label from Tag-N-Trac for real-time shipment tracking. Sensors can capture the exact location, temperature and humidity, shock and tilt events, and light exposure. The data is transmitted with the help of cellular, Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity. The smart label, which can remain active for up to 30 days, features minimal packaging and eliminates the need for return logistics, as is the case for hard devices, Etihad said. SmartTrack will be available to customers via the Etihad Cargo website and mobile app starting in October. Click here for more FreightWaves/American Shipper stories by Eric companies charter Etihad freighters to transport Chinese goods Etihad Airways to order 3 additional A350 freighters from Airbus The post Etihad Airways hires 747 operator Western Global to expand cargo service appeared first on FreightWaves. Sign in to access your portfolio
Yahoo
36 minutes ago
- Yahoo
Truckload's path to equilibrium
The U.S. truckload market has undergone significant transformation since the COVID-19 pandemic, with the industry experiencing dramatic swings in capacity, demand and pricing. In the aftermath of the pandemic, the truckload market found itself awash in excess capacity. This oversupply stemmed from a combination of factors, including the entry of new carriers during the pandemic-era freight boom and subsequent softening of demand as consumer spending patterns normalized. The oversupply situation was further complicated by volatile trade policies, with tariff rhetoric accelerating in early 2025 and creating uncertainty in import patterns. As market conditions deteriorated, thousands of small- and midsize trucking carriers faced unsustainable economics, leading to widespread business failures and market exits. This natural, if painful, adjustment mechanism began to rebalance the supply-demand equation that had tilted heavily in shippers' favor during the post-COVID era. The exodus of carriers was driven by significant cost pressures. Publicly traded freight brokerage RXO noted in its quarterly market report that 'the average cost to operate a truck is 34% higher over the past decade but absolute spot rates are largely the same as they were in 2014.' This economic reality made it increasingly difficult for carriers to maintain profitability, particularly smaller operators without the scale or financial resources to weather prolonged market weakness. According to RXO, the truckload market 'has remained relatively calm' with spot rates continuing to step higher despite disruption from rapidly changing tariff policies. The market has followed a trend – largely in place since 2023 – of soft freight demand, reductions in carrier capacity and gradually stabilizing situation created what RXO described as 'a difficult landscape for carriers,' with many 'running with unsustainable unit economics.' This harsh operating environment accelerated the pace of carrier exits, despite 'a couple of atypical months of operating authority growth in March and April.' By mid-2025, the prolonged exodus of carriers finally brought the market closer to equilibrium. As RXO observed in its quarterly forecast, 'We're as close to equilibrium, in terms of carrier supply and shipper demand, as we've been in over two years.' The broker noted that 'relatively speaking, the capacity situation is much more fragile than at this time last year.' This newfound balance began manifesting in key market indicators. The national average Outbound Tender Rejection Index, which measures the percentage of tendered loads rejected by carriers, climbed to 6.67% by June 2025 – reaching the threshold where rejections start putting inflationary pressure on spot rates. Most enterprise shippers prefer to maintain tender acceptance percentages in the upper 90s, meaning many were already experiencing problematic service levels. The data showed significant improvement in rate trends as well. TL spot rates (excluding fuel) were up 9.1% year over year in the first quarter of 2025, following an 11.6% growth rate during the fourth quarter of 2024. Contractual rates also increased 1.4% year over year in the first quarter – the first annual increase since the end of 2022.A notable development in the recovering market has been the emergence of significant regional disparities. By June 2025, tender rejection rates for truckload shipments originating in the Southeast surpassed 10% – marking the first time in nearly three years they reached that level. In contrast, rejection rates for freight departing the West Coast remained well below the national average and were the lowest among the seven major U.S. regions. This contrast was particularly striking given the focus on imports and Southern California ports that handle the bulk of U.S. container traffic. While tender volumes out of the Southeast were down 6% year over year, West Coast volumes declined 14% annually, suggesting that demand alone wasn't driving the regional disparity. Part of the explanation lies in intermodal transportation patterns. Much of the long-haul freight demand from the West shifted to rail, with intermodal capturing a large share from the truckload sector. Loaded container volumes moving by rail out of Los Angeles remained up year over year, even as they dipped alongside declining import levels. Meanwhile, long-haul tender volumes out of Los Angeles dropped 26% annually. The Outbound Tender Rejection Index measures the percentage of truckload tenders rejected by carriers and serves as an indicator of the relative balance of supply and demand in the truckload market. (Chart: SONAR. To learn more about SONAR, click here.) By June 2025, the 'interior' markets of Atlanta, Chicago and Dallas showed the tightest capacity conditions among major freight centers. Atlanta's outbound tender rejection rate reached 8.89%, continuing an upward trend that began in late February. Chicago's rejection rate stood at 7.07%, while Dallas reported 6.86% – all above the national average. The market trajectory for truckload rates remains 'inflationary,' according to RXO, though trade policy presents a significant wild card. The 3PL classified the early part of 2025 as 'still primarily a shippers' market' but noted that 'with a continued difficult landscape for carriers, and (in many cases) decreasing 2025 contract rates setting in, it could set the stage for volatility later in 2025.' The broader trend for 2025 calls for more carrier exits and high operating costs to keep upward pressure on rates. RXO pointed to the possibility of a more material uptick in rates if trade tensions calm ahead of peak season and carrier exits become more pronounced. In that scenario, 'contract rates and routing guides set in the softer market of 2024 may not survive a tighter market late in 2025, when the spot market will likely become more lucrative than the contract market.' Transportation prices were forecast to be significantly higher a year from now, with industry respondents returning a reading of 75 for the pricing outlook in the Logistics Managers' Index. There is a growing consensus that 'the worst-case scenarios associated with potential tariffs will not come to pass,' and 2026 could reflect a more robust transportation recovery, barring a macroeconomic U.S. truckload market has traveled a difficult road since the pandemic, moving from extreme oversupply to a more balanced state through the painful but necessary process of carrier exits. This gradual market healing has finally restored equilibrium between supply and demand, enabling carriers to regain pricing power as evidenced by rising tender rejection rates and strengthening spot market conditions. The market remains sensitive to external shocks, particularly trade policy developments and potential economic headwinds. However, the significant reduction in truckload capacity over the past year has made the market more responsive to even modest demand changes. As one analyst noted, 'a significant reduction in truckload capacity over the past year has made the market more vulnerable. Even with a somewhat bearish outlook for demand, the truckload sector appears increasingly reactive — and poised for volatility.' The post Truckload's path to equilibrium appeared first on FreightWaves. Sign in to access your portfolio
