
Peter Som – whose devotees include Scarlett Johansson and Michelle Obama – is branching out from fashion to food, sharing favourite recipes in his first cookbook, Family Style
Renaissance man Peter Som is in pursuit of happiness. That's why the designer who once took
New York Fashion Week by storm with his sleek style and joyful dresses, donned by the likes of Michelle Obama and
Scarlett Johansson , has since leapt headfirst into an exciting new chapter of his career, trading in clothing for cooking, and promoting his new recipe book, Family Style – a love letter to food, heritage and, above all, what it means to feel at home.
'I would definitely not call it a pivot,' Som clarifies. 'I haven't left anything behind – I still do clothing with Rent the Runway; I have a few deals and projects coming up.' But cooking, as it turns out, was part of Som's life, long before fashion entered the equation. 'I grew up in the kitchen next to my grandmother and mum,' the designer explains, 'and all through my runway collection years, [I would] come home after a day of fittings and fashion show preparations, close the door, make something from beginning, middle to end within a span of 45 minutes, and enjoy it.'
Peter Som acknowledges the audience's appreciation after his spring 2009 collection runway in New York. Photo: AFP
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A 45-minute meal and a 15-minute fashion show might not seem like they have that much in common, but in Som's hands both come to life as a compelling showcase for self-expression and more often than not, a celebration of colour.
'How do you stand out?' the designer asks. 'How does that product differentiate from everybody else? Even when I wrote this cookbook, I wanted my voice to be authentic. … I found that creative approach is how I approach everything. Obviously the fundamentals and technicalities are different, but you eat with your eyes – the same way a great outfit attracts your eye.'
Peter Som's first foray into cookery, Family Style, celebrates food and family. Photo: HarperCollins Publishers
Many of Som's recipes, such as the potsticker frittata or char siu bacon cheeseburger, are as striking visually as they are strong on flavours, a reflection of the designer's Chinese-American identity and penchant for making things that just work well together, be it fabrics and prints or spices and sauces. They're also irresistibly fun to make, eat and look at. 'Just like that outfit has to feel great when you put it on, so too does that dish have to taste great and be delicious,' says Som.
If cooking has always been simmering in the background of Som's life, joy continues to be that all-important thread that ties all his pursuits together. 'I always said I design happy clothes,' he muses. 'I want clothes to make you smile, to be a mood lifter. Every designer has a different view on that – I'm not
Rick Owens . So it's similar with the cookbook – I wrote every word myself. I wanted that sense of joy, curiosity; hopefully some humour in there.'
Peter Som's mouthwatering char siu bacon burger. Photo: Handout
Som's voice, unmistakably his own, shines through many of the book's cheeky recipe titles, with undercurrents of his multifaceted, multicultural identity rising to the surface – think A Plate of Very Nice Oranges, a modern spin on the fruit slices traditionally served after a Chinese meal, or Mom's Five-Spice Chicken (But on a Sheet Pan), another fun twist on a classic of Chinese cuisine. (Personally, I'm partial to the cacio e pepe sticky rice with egg.)
Then there are the fashion analogies sprinkled throughout, which allude to Som's stylish past. The designer refers to stir-fries as the 'little black dress of Chinese cooking', meant to be accessorised and embellished, dressed up or down to the maker's desire – a comparison that makes me chuckle inside in knowing agreement.
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