Spier Hotel's luxe glow-up is worth extending your stay for

Time Out

2 days ago

Founded in 1692, all South Africans know Spier, usually thanks to the bottle of wine you take to your friends. For those who've visited in the last decade or so, the association is likely the conferencing element, the cheetah encounter experience or the birds of prey. None of those are available anymore (except good wine, still plenty of that) as Spier embraces a revamp that, frankly, feels more like a rebirth.
The vibe is country but classic
The new hotel resembles nothing of its former conferencing fame. Their 155 rooms were transformed into a boutique hotel with 80 rooms. The hotel is more of a retreat with endemic flora along paths that connect the various Cape terraced buildings. Every room and suite has a scenic view, whether it's the river, the gardens or the mountains.
If you're looking for a space to touch grass, this is it. From using plants propagated on the farm to the repurposing of tables and lamp bases from the previous furnishings, the carbon impact of the revamp was carefully considered. Rooms exude effortless elegance with simplistic design. Luxurious touches feel like home, but better: think Karoo wool carpets, solid oak floors and silk linen and cotton textures.
The details make the difference
I usually leave minibars as I find them. Not here. They're crammed with Spier's award-winning wines, beers, soft drinks, iced tea and all the good stuff: white chocolate honeycomb, salted caramel marshmallow bars, roasted nuts and biltong - all included in your rate. It's the little touches, like the pot of honey and a fresh lemon beside the loose leaf rooibos tea grown on the farm, or the heated floors in the bathroom.
Tempting as it is to become one with your fireside couch, wine in hand, I'd encourage you to venture out. Over 1,000 artworks from the Spier Arts Trust sprawl across the estate in rooms, restaurants and gardens. Provided you haven't enjoyed your minibar too thoroughly, you can hop on a Segway for a vineyard tour or join Farmer Angus and his chickens. The real magic is tasting that 'farm-fresh' difference. The pasteis de nata are the best I've had in South Africa, a claim I verified through daily samples. Eggs are indeed a popular choice on the breakfast a la carte menu, though you can help yourself to pastries, cured ham, smoked salmon and fruit from the harvest table.
Eat (and drink) your way around the farm
Other dining options include dinner at the spacious Veld with an open kitchen and massive artworks adorning the walls (senior wine educator Tyson Meyi is on hand with a warm smile and a pairing recommendation), or go for something more casual at Vadas Smokehouse and Bakery. There's also Bubbles and Braai or the Picnickery, where you can pre-order your basket before choosing a lakeside spot to set up your supplied blankets and backrests. I'm on the side of 30 where birdwatching is a thing, so I admired the purple herons and malachite sunbirds flitting around.
A full day of farm exploring is best ended with a glass of Spier's 21 Gables Chenin Blanc, enjoyed around the fire pit on the rooftop bar with a gorgeous view of the sunset tinting the Helderberg mountains. If you're inclined, a bougie celebration can be organised in the Manor House, where Chef Hennie will come up with a special menu for your nearest and dearest in the original farmhouse buildings.
Using the ground for good
Feeling like a veritable Anne of Green (21?) Gables, I wandered around the apothecary garden with Dr Caren Hauptfleisch, the resident phytotherapist and then experienced the benefits of the homegrown herbs during Spier's signature Cape Herbal Bathhouse treatment, which involved becoming a human teabag. I was exfoliated on a heated marble slab, wrapped in linen for a herbal soak, and then massaged from head to toe.
Spier's regenerative practices go beyond buzzwords: their water is 100% recycled and they send zero waste to landfill. Exploring the farm gives insights into these practices, even down to a free-choice mineral lick available to the cattle (not you… you get a custard tart instead). The livestock are also frequently moved to assist with carbon sequestration, and if you have no idea what that is, Angus will be so glad you asked.
Spier's long-term community commitment is also evidenced in its Growing For Good initiatives, like projects to reduce youth unemployment and boost entrepreneur development, as well as Living Soils, dedicated to producing a new generation of regenerative farmers and Tree-preneurs, where community members learn how to grow trees from seeds which are then traded for vouchers for essential items. Long story short: your stay helps these projects thrive. Cheers to that.
Child-friendly fun means more grown-up time
If you've got kids, you're in for a treat. There's an Elemental Garden, open to all visitors, where play means hiding in the reeds, skidding down stone slides, and clambering rope bridges. Hotel guests with children get the perks of the Buzz Club, a programme with multiple daily activities centred around nature, like building bug hotels, making flower crowns, petal perfumes, painting and baking. And their parents get to enjoy everything else, like the heated pool.
If your last visit to Spier was a few years back or involved a conferencing lanyard, it's about time you paid them a visit. Bring the family, stay a week and use Spier as a base to explore the Winelands and Cape Town. That is, if you can bear to leave the farm.