Why a black leather waistcoat is the must-have item for spring

Telegraph

18-03-2025

While it won't be a surprise that florals and stripes are big for spring, one piece that I'm sure isn't on your bingo card is a leather waistcoat. However, thanks to Sienna Miller, it's set to be the unexpected hit of the season.
The actor wore a cropped black waistcoat during Paris Fashion Week at a dinner at Château Voltaire to celebrate her new campaign for Californian denim brand Frame, in which she stars with her boyfriend Oli Green.
She teamed it with cream jeans and black boots, adding her signature boho flair with a slouchy bag and beaded charm bracelet. The effect? Part rodeo, part rock-and-roll and totally chic.
Miller is well known for her style prowess, and her ability to influence the nation's wardrobes has not waned since she tempted us into coin belts and prairie skirts back in the early 2000s. It's in no small part down to her recent sell-out collaborations with M&S that we're all wearing barrel-leg jeans.
So is a leather waistcoat the next cult spring buy?
'Personally I love leather in black for spring – with jeans and a biker tee, or over a boho maxi dress,' says stylist, presenter and fashion influencer, Kat Farmer. 'It's definitely a spring staple and completely timeless.'
The catwalks agree. Leather outerwear was a hero of the spring/summer 2025 collections, from leather bombers at Victoria Beckham to oversized biker jackets at Saint Laurent. The case for going sleeveless was made at Chloé, where long-line leather utility vests were used to toughen-up romantic lace blouses.
We'll be seeing a lot of them next season, too. For her debut collection as Givenchy's creative director, Sarah Burton showed black leather blazer-style waistcoats with exaggerated shoulders. While the styling suggestion of coordinating leather trousers might be OTT for everyday wear, the addition of sculptural silver jewellery is worth taking note of.
Of course, what looks great on the catwalk – or indeed an A-lister – can err towards Village People in real life. Stay away from fringing, studs and embellishments which can resemble fancy dress. Reach for a waistcoat with a clean, minimal design and in quality leather for a Scandi-chic look.
Black Catrin Leather Waistcoast, £249, Whistles; Teza Okobor™ Alt-Leather Sleeveless Top, £295, Nanushka
Miller's Frame version gets it right and is available for £765 (Frame Store). But you don't need to spend anywhere near that to master the look. Try the Whistles' Catrin waistcoat, which is a more palatable £249 and has a longer length that covers your midriff.
For a non-animal alternative, Nanushka's Teza vest is made from the brand's signature alt-leather Okobor, a blend of recycled fabrics, that feels every bit deserving of the high-end piece.
Shopping online for a vintage or pre-loved waistcoat will pay dividends, not only because price tags tend to be lower, the patina of leather gets better with age, too.
'I love looking for leather on Vinted,' says Clare Lewis, vintage expert and founder of Retold boutique. 'Just be sure to ask the seller about the condition and get more photos before committing to purchase.' Smoke odours are notoriously difficult to get out of leather so also ensure it comes from a smoke-free home.
As for how to style your waistcoat? 'Leather is a fun tool to toughen up softer, more feminine pieces. Try layering a waistcoat over your white flowy dress or linen trousers to make them feel that bit cooler,' advises stylist and co-founder of Wrapp10, Florrie Thomas.
Sofi Relazed Fit Leather Gilet, £319, All Saints
All Saint's buttery Sofi gilet has a relaxed fit for extra-effortless chic. To channel Miller's boho luxe, simply add a slouchy shoulder bag.
Denim and leather is a fail-safe pairing. Layer Cos's sleeveless top over a fine roll-neck and pair it with your high-waist jeans or denim midi. A fashion-forward way to mix up your go-to everyday uniform.
Sleeveless Leather Top, £250, Cos
A pop of leather can give an edge to tailoring, too. Wear Norma Kamali's fitted waistcoat (£195, My Theresa) with a thin merino wool crew-neck and tailored trousers for the office, then couple it with a camisole and kitten heels and, voilà, head out to dinner. In Paris or elsewhere.
Dos and don'ts
Save your sparkle
Fussy jewellery can tip leather into the realms of costume, not to mention it looking dated. A modern pebble earring or sculptural cuff has a more contemporary feel.
Take care
Invest in a good leather conditioner to help keep your leather soft and supple. Prevent fading by hanging in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
Ditch the backcomb
Big hair worn with leather has an air of 1980s power ballad about it. Try undone waves or a low chignon instead.
Layer up
Leather can get sweaty when resting on bare skin, so slip a camisole or tank underneath.
Keep it monochrome
Styling your leather waistcoat with a limited colour palette is an easy way to create an understated Scandi-chic aesthetic.