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Maria Grazia Chiuri to exit Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri to exit Dior

Vogue Singapore29-05-2025
It's the end of an era. After a nine-year run as Dior's creative director of women's haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections, Maria Grazia Chiuri is leaving the French luxury house.
'Christian Dior Couture announces that Maria Grazia Chiuri has decided to leave her position as creative director of women's haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections,' the house said in a statement on Thursday.
'I extend my warmest thanks to Maria Grazia Chiuri, who, since her arrival at Dior, has accomplished tremendous work with an inspiring feminist perspective and exceptional creativity, all imbued with the spirit of Monsieur Dior, which allowed her to design highly desirable collections,' Christian Dior couture chairman and CEO Delphine Arnault said. 'She has written a key chapter in the history of Christian Dior, greatly contributing to its remarkable growth and being the first woman to lead the creation of women's collections.'
'I would like to thank Monsieur Arnault for placing his trust in me and Delphine for her support, Chiuri said. 'I am particularly grateful for the work accomplished by my teams and the ateliers. Their talent and expertise allowed me to realise my vision of committed women's fashion, in close dialogue with several generations of female artists. Together, we have written an impactful chapter of which I am immensely proud.'
A successor has yet to be announced. This comes after Dior appointed Jonathan Anderson as its artistic director of men's collection in April, succeeding Kim Jones, who exited in January.
The Italian designer began her career at Fendi in 1989 as a handbag designer and moved to Valentino in 1999 as an accessories designer before being promoted to co-creative director alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli in 2008. She was appointed at Dior in 2016, becoming its first female designer since the house was founded in 1947—she succeeded Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano and Raf Simons.
Her debut collection for Spring/Summer 2017, inspired by fencing, featured slogan tees, which read 'We should all be feminists'. That set the tone for her tenure, which consistently referenced women's empowerment. 'The message, really, is that there is not one type of woman,' she told Vogue Runway at the show. Over the years, Chiuri has collaborated with several female artists for show sets, including Judy Chicago, Faith Ringgold, Eva Jospin and Mickalene Thomas. In the Dior SS25 show, Italian artist and competitive archer Sagg Napoli shot arrows at a target as the models did their circuit.
Chiuri also consistently drew on the archives beyond Christian Dior's era. 'Monsieur Dior only [lived] 10 years. It can't only be about him!' she told Vogue Runway at her debut show. 'In some ways, I see myself as a curator of the house.' For example, in 2018, together with CEO Pietro Beccari, who was appointed in 2017, she relaunched the Saddle Bag, one of the house's iconic bags from the Galliano era. For AW24, she paid homage to Marc Bohan's invention of the Miss Dior line, and notably the opening of a (now defunct) Miss Dior boutique in 1967, as a way to offer ready-to-wear to couture clients. 'I'm very fascinated by this collection and this moment of Mr. Bohan's history,' she told Vogue Runway . The Dior AW25 show had 'Dior-isms', including nods to Galliano's Saddle bag and J'Adore Dior T-shirts and to Gianfranco Ferré's white shirts, according to Vogue Runway . Maria Grazia Chiuri poses with models backstage at the Dior resort 2026 show. Acielle/StyleDuMonde
The designer has navigated the course through the whirlwind of runway shows, including women's ready-to-wear couture, cruise, and even pre-fall shows (such as the one in Mumbai, which highlighted the works of artisans, and most recently in Kyoto). It all translated into enormous commercial success. Dior couture sales went from €2.2 billion in 2017 to €9.5 billion in 2023, per HSBC. Dior isn't immune to the wider luxury slowdown, though. In 2024, sales decreased to €8.7 billion, according to HSBC. And in the first quarter of 2025, sales of LVMH's fashion and leather goods division were down 5 per cent. Dior hired Benedetta Petruzzo as managing director, who took up the role on 15 October, reporting to Delphine Arnault, and Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou as deputy CEO in April.
In her downtime, as a personal project, Chiuri has been restoring a historic theatre, Rome's Teatro della Cometa.
The Dior resort 2026 show, held on Tuesday, was 'a heartfelt, nearly all-white celebration of Rome, her birthplace', according to Vogue Runway. It was her last show with the house.
The story was originally published on Vogue Business.
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The late Virgil Abloh, appointed by LVMH as creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear in March 2018, introduced the industry to a younger, more diverse audience that was passionate about music. PHOTO: AFP Between 2017 and 2022, sales of personal luxury goods rose by more than US$100 billion, according to Bain & Co. In the US, much of this was driven by younger spenders who were affluent but not super wealthy. It fits that luxury aesthetics were in a 'loud' phase characterised by bold colors and ostentatious logos. At the same time, hip-hop and R&B were becoming more mainstream, accounting for a higher percentage of the Billboard Hot 100 and so amplifying its influence. Flashy, coveted items – think Rolex watches and Hermes handbags – were touted in popular songs. Indeed, Arnault said in early 2022 that Louis Vuitton wasn't just a fashion business, it was a 'cultural brand' too. But as inflation and interest rates began soaring post-Covid, many of the new luxury customers came under pressure. Big bling retrenched and refocused its attention on older, wealthier shoppers, offering plainer styles and fewer logos. Streetwear faded from fashion and 'quiet luxury' was born. With the old money aesthetic came old-money price tags, further alienating younger buyers. This correlated with fewer high-end brand names, Gucci and Dior for example, appearing in lyrics in 2022 and 2023. (A broader range of labels, such as Goyard, with some price points below the megabrands, was included by hip hop and R&B stars.) This helps explain why companies' communications strategies, led by LVMH, are now coalescing around sport. For example, soccer star Kylian Mbappe was the face of Jonathan Anderson's first collection for Dior, rather than a musician, such as A$AP Rocky, with whom the label previously collaborated. 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PHOTO: BLOOMBERG 'The new Bottega, my baby only wears couture' Our analysis underlines how badly luxury needs to reassert itself among younger consumers who draw inspiration from music. It's true that inflation in top-end goods is moderating, and that companies are also introducing more affordable products, such as beauty and fragrance. Labels are also finally shaking things up with a cadre of new talent: As well as Anderson at Dior and Demna at Gucci, Chanel has appointed Matthieu Blazy as its creative director. Kering houses Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta both have new designers, as do LVMH labels Loewe, Givenchy and Celine. But more must be done to win over disenfranchised shoppers and make owning top-end goods desirable again. The popularity of hit song Dior shows that the luxury fatigue that has weighed on sales may be reaching its nadir. With carefully crafted strategies, brands can seep into popular culture once more. If the track turns out to be the catalyst for the house's renaissance, that would be a strong signal for Arnault and the rest of the industry to turn the music up. BLOOMBERG

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