What's black tie and smart casual? The new dress codes

The Age

23-05-2025

The time, date, address and request for dietary requirements are crucial components of any invitation, but the most important element is the dress code.
Whether it's Vogue editor Anna Wintour's Met Gala or a colleague's backyard wedding, nailing the dress code demonstrates that you belong more effectively than a place card on the head table.
Arriving at a formal work dinner in a tweed sports jacket, black-tie charity ball in a minuscule skirt or smart casual brunch in a sequinned slip dress can leave you feeling more exposed than Renée Zellweger in the original Bridget Jones's Diary film, wearing a fancy dress bunny costume to a garden party.
'We live in a world where people should be able to express themselves as
individuals, but equally, they should have the knowledge to appreciate the subtle art and the nuances of how and when to do so,' says Bruce Keebaugh, founder of events specialists the Big Group.
Keebaugh has co-ordinated black tie and beyond celebrations at the Melbourne Cup and royal occasions in Saudi Arabia.
'Dress codes help to reinforce these nuances at important social gatherings,' he says. 'Ignore them at your peril.'
Over time, dress codes have slowly relaxed, with the lines between white tie and black tie, semiformal and cocktail blurring, adding further confusion. With few of us attending white-tie royal galas or state dinners, it's safe to leave it off the list. But with non-royal wedding season ahead, here are the modern-day dress codes to pay attention to.
Black tie
Men: 'Black tie for me is like athleisure wear for others; an easy go-to outfit,' writes Keebaugh in his book By Invitation Only.
The problem arises when people mistakenly think athleisure is black tie.
For men, it's rather self-explanatory. Black tie is a dinner suit, with a jacket in black or midnight navy with satin lapels, and black trousers with a single strip of satin or braid down each leg.
Shirts should be crisp white, preferably with a pleated front and winged collar to accommodate a bow tie.
'When hosts specify a black-tie dress code they really want to see their guest dress up for the occasion,' says Joe Farage, founder of modern tailors Farage. 'I would always opt for a very well-fitted tuxedo with a crisp shirt and a hand tied bow tie – it must be hand tied.'
A pre-tied bow tie is forgivable, if you're not at a Farage event, but muss it up so that the knot doesn't appear too perfect.
Double cuffs allow men to inject personality with cufflinks, while a traditional dress shirt will also require studs in the place of buttons. Always go for basic black studs.
Once you know the rules, feel free to bend them with a crisp, collared white shirt and solid black tie, but don't break them entirely by going shirtless. That's for the Grammy's.
'With shoes you're after a classic opera pump, but shoes in patent leather are difficult to come by,' says Sydney shoemaker Andrew McDonald. 'I find most men go for a simple black leather shoe with a bit of shine to it.'
Women: Whether it's partying with the Kardashians and Hiltons in Beverly Hills, dressing royalty in London or attending charity events in Sydney, designer Rebecca Vallance understands the intricacies of black-tie dressing, without a tie.
'Black tie is all about true elegance,' Vallance says. 'It's floor-length gowns, exquisite suiting and timeless classic pieces. You can still inject your own style and personality, but black tie exudes refined sophistication.
'Of course, you need to be fabulous.'
In short, black tie means long. Ballroom, floor-scraping dresses in evening appropriate fabrics such as chiffon, lace, velvet and silk meet the brief.
Accessories should be elegant and understated, such as simple diamond studs, pearl necklaces or cocktail rings.
While bigger is better for dresses, handbags should be small, with a preference for clutches. If it can carry your laptop in it, leave it at home.
Shoes depend on the venue. Don't feel trapped into heels when there are plenty of stylish satin evening flats with pointed toes.
With a long hemline, you can get away with stylish sneakers if they remain hidden from view. Oscar-winner Sally Field hid sneakers beneath a red lace gown at the 2013 Academy Awards.
Formal
Men: Paranoia surrounding bow ties can be dismissed with the formal dress code, a slight step done from black tie. Think of it as undoing your top button, without actually undoing it.
You can still wear a dinner suit, with many people considering formal as 'black tie optional', but a plain black, navy or dark charcoal suit will pass muster. Steer clear of garish pin stripes, checks or sports jackets.
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Bow ties are welcome, but a solid tie with a crisp white shirt will also work. Take advantage of the occasion and dip into the cufflink drawer to add sparkle. This time you can leave the tricky dress studs behind.
Women: 'It's that strange space between black tie and cocktail where you can have just a little bit more fun,' says celebrity stylist Jess Pecoraro.
Just not too much.
Formal still suggests floor length, though you can get away with a hint of ankle. There is also greater flexibility to introduce separates, such as long sheer skirts or suiting.
You can play with jewellery, so let those chandelier earrings swing or swap your tennis bracelet for a statement cuff.
Cocktail
Women: Fortunately, I speak cocktail fluently. Black tie is a martini, formal is a dirty martini, and cocktail is a spicy margarita. Smart casual is a craft beer or a glass of Pinot Gris, but we'll get to that.
'Cocktail is more open when it comes to the styles you can wear,' says Rebecca Vallance. 'You can have a bit more fun with cocktail by playing around with dress lengths. It's not serious, but still very chic.'
Midi, tea-length or even a mini-dress will suit the occasion. Don't hesitate to channel your inner Carla Zampatti and break out a jumpsuit in silk, satin, brocade or velvet.
Keep accessories elevated, including footwear, but trade your clutch for a bag with a shoulder strap. It's much easier for balancing cocktails and canapés.
Men: While women play with hemlines, men can amuse themselves with complementary blazers or sports jackets and trousers as part of the cocktail dress code.
You can ditch the tie and wear your shirt unbuttoned, like a politician on the election trail, or wear a matching T-shirt beneath your jacket in a solid tone or colour. Leave the slogans at home and introduce your T-shirt to a hot iron.
Polished shoes, including boots, will have you on sure footing. Loafers are also acceptable, with or without socks. I suggest staying on trend and trying socks.
Smart casual
Women: Relax, but in a smart fashion for a smart casual dinner or party. As long as it's not a wedding, denim is allowed. Steer clear of acid wash, dramatic holes or excessive embellishment.
'It's a thought-out look that's effortless yet put together,' Vallance says. 'Smart casual can take you from day to night and can easily be dressed up with the right accessories.'
You can wear sneakers, but once again, make sure they're clean.
While you can dial down most aspects of your outfit, have one statement piece that shows you didn't just stumble onto the event on your way to pick up milk. A dramatic coat, polished blazer or slick leather jacket fulfil the 'smart' part of the dress code.
Men: The same rules apply for men, but many need reminding that if you are going to wear sneakers, make sure they're not the pair you wear to the gym.
Get the smart casual balance right. If you're wearing jeans, stick to dark washes in a regular or straight leg fit, and try a collared shirt or polo shirt. A tailored jacket will elevate most T-shirts, but this is still not the time for slogans or sports merchandise.
'A relaxed, tailored jacket works well with this,' Farage says. 'The jacket can have the structure of a suit jacket without the lining but still adds polish and shows that you have put thought into your look.'
The basics
Follow context clues. If it's black tie for a beach wedding, consider appropriate shoes and lighter fabrics for warm weather destinations.
It's better to be overdressed. Unless you turn up in a ballgown or tuxedo at a barbecue, it's always better to aim higher. No one will complain if you look elegant.
Do your best. If you're going to a black tie event, and you don't have a floor-length gown or dinner suit, just wear your best attire using the dress codes as guidance. Don't strain your budget for a new outfit. It's all about the intention of dressing as a sign of respect for your host. Making the effort to be your best self, and guest, is enough.