A Taste Of Tradition: Inside Nice's Iconic Restaurant Acchiardo

Forbes

2 days ago

Since 1927, Restaurant Acchiardo in the heart of Old Town Nice has been a beloved local haunt serving some of the region's most cherished Niçoise dishes. For four generations, the stone-walled eatery has been known for spotlighting the area's authentic flavors with plates like daube (beef stew braised in wine), panisses (crispy chickpea fritters), and trouchia (a savory frittata with Swiss chard).
When she was a child, Virginie Acchiardo, whose great-grandmother opened Restaurant Acchiardo, cherished the aromatic feast that enveloped her senses every morning. Her family lived above the restaurant, and her father, part of the third generation to run it, was already hard at work.
'Every morning before going to school, we would go through the restaurant to have breakfast,' recalls Virginie Acchiardo, who is now the chef of her family's restaurant, which she co-owns and runs with her brothers Jean-François and Raphaël. 'Dad was already in the kitchen preparing dishes like beef stew with a red wine sauce.' She remembers the distinct savory aroma drifting up the stairwell. 'It still reminds me of my father,' she says.
She also adored the calming sound of the metal whisk against the mixing bowl when her father beat egg whites to make the chocolate mousse. 'I would watch him in the kitchen,' she says. 'And when the chocolate melted I was always allowed to scrape the pan and taste the chocolate.'
Cooking was not only in her DNA, it gave her a deep connection to those she loved. 'I always saw my father in the kitchen and it was a normal continuity,' says Acchiardo. 'Cooking brought me closer to my family. Since they were always at the restaurant, it allowed me to be with them.'
While Acchiardo's training was not formal, it was deeply rooted in observation. 'My father said, 'A trade is not learned, it is stolen,'' she says. 'There are ways of doing things that are not written anywhere, especially not in textbooks. Each kitchen has its own organization.' She learned everything from her father, who in turn learned from his grandmother, Madalin. 'I am very proud that I can still make the same recipes from almost 100 years ago, and I am even more proud to be able to work with my two brothers,' she says. 'And our children, the fifth generation, are already starting to work with us, which is also a great source of pride.'
Madalin Acchiardo was a widow when she opened Acchiardo in 1927. She and her husband, Giuseppe, who died in 1920, had very little money but saved for years to buy the buy the restaurant and building. Both born in Piedmont in a little Italian village named Norat, Madalin had arrived in Nice in 1896. Working as a maid for a rich family since she was a child she came to Nice alone without her parents.
'They had a lot of courage because life wasn't easy. The restaurant was never closed. They worked all the time,' says Virginie Acchiardo. 'The dishes they made were truly traditional family recipes that were simple and, above all, inexpensive.'
In 2027, Restaurant Acchiardo will celebrate its centennial, and in the same locale where it opened all those years ago. 'This is much more than a restaurant. This is our home. We were born here in this building,' says Virginie Acchiardo. 'When customers come to our restaurant, it is as if they are coming into our home. We welcome them into our dining room and share a little bit of our family's life.'
Nice and the Côte d'Azur is full of treasures like Restaurant Acchiardo. And getting there is easy via Air France, with direct flights to Nice Côte d'Azur Airport, which is just a few miles from the heart of the city. The city's identity is shaped by its French and Italian influences and stunning natural beauty. Nice blends seaside charm with cultural richness. And there is no shortage of great museums, parks, and fine cuisine.
The stunning Musée Matisse in the Cimiez district offers a comprehensive overview of Henri Matisse's artistic journey. Located in the neighborhood where he lived and worked, the museum is one of the few public collections in the world that showcases his painted, sculpted, engraved, and drawn works. Or stroll through the lively Cours Saleya, known for its flower market and antiques on Mondays, and don't miss the climb to Parc du Château (or Castle Park), where sweeping views of the Bay of Angels reward the effort of the climb to get there.
With its Belle Époque architecture and ideally located on the famous Promenade des Anglais, Hotel West End is a jewel box of a hotel. Behind its grand dame façade, the hotel features elegant rooms, many containing panoramic views overlooking the dramatic Baie des Anges. The hotel is the ideal mix of modern comfort with old-world charm. Plus, the iconic Le Siècle bar and brasserie inside the Hotel West End has old-school glamour and a perfect perch for sunset apéritifs along the promenade. Built in 1842, the hotel is one of the oldest on the waterfront.
La Villa Nice Promenade, a boutique hotel steps from the Mediterranean, has a Belle Époque charm. Its leafy terrace and location just off the Promenade des Anglais make it an ideal base for soaking up Nice's sea breeze and laid-back elegance. The hotel's intimate vibe and classic architecture offer a unique mix of privacy and convenience right near the water. Also, the elaborate breakfast is a standout.
Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel is another gem and offers a luxurious spa and panoramic rooftop views of the city. Just steps from vibrant Place Masséna, SEEN by Olivier Restaurant on the hotel's rooftop offers Mediterranean cuisine with an Asian twist. And the vistas of sea and cityscape are as delicious as the food. Don't miss their epic Sunday brunch featuring Veuve Clicquot, and an eye-popping buffet from sushi to cheeses to a chocolate fountain. It's perfect for a leisurely indulgence.
Boca Nissa, a vibrant Mediterranean-inspired rooftop restaurant, offers panoramic views and great dishes like hummus, sea bass ceviche, burrata, and saffron-flavored rice with langoustines. It's a popular spot for both locals and visitors looking for a memorable dining experience with a contemporary yet relaxed vibe. While La Maison de Marie is a tucked-away treasure that offers Provençal charm and refined Niçoise classics. Set in a secret garden off the bustling Cours Saleya, dishes like zucchini flowers stuffed with salted ricotta and pea cream and traditional Niçoise stew and gnocchi offer a true sense of place.
Beyond the city, book an e-bike adventure with Mobilboard Nice, which offers scenic tours to the nearby coastal village of Villefranche-sur-Mer. To cycle around the city and to Antibes and beyond, Bike Trip Nice rents excellent bicycles perfect for exploring the city and coastline. They make it easy to enjoy the Riviera on two wheels.
For the alpha cyclists who take their rides seriously, Café du Cycliste is both a top-notch performance gear shop and a cozy café where riders refuel with excellent coffee and croissants. It's the perfect pit stop for cycling enthusiasts wanting to blend passion with relaxation near the port. For travelers venturing to nearby Cannes, YouRent Cannes offers stylish rentals and biking options that make hopping from beach to café a breeze.
For Virginie Acchiardo, Nice and the layered history and enduring flavors of her family's restaurant continue to make the region special for her. And she sees the restaurant as a conduit to past and present and to the people who visit. 'This restaurant is my life,' she says. 'It's full of memories and love. When I cook these dishes, I feel close to my father, my family, and the generations that came before me. It's an emotional connection to who we are and where we came from.'