The overlooked ‘Oxford of Belgium' that deserves more tourists

Telegraph

5 days ago

From the bell tower of Leuven's university library you get a great view across the mottled rooftops of my favourite Flemish city, but an even greater wonder is that this dramatic landmark is still here at all.
Destroyed by the German army during the First World War, and then again by Hitler's Wehrmacht, it's been completely rebuilt twice over – initially in the 1920s, and then again after the Second World War.
Its immaculate reconstruction is a tribute to Leuven's indefatigable spirit, and the never-say-die attitude of its illustrious university, which celebrates its 600th birthday this year.
In most cities such an anniversary would be a rather niche affair, a celebration for students and academics rather than the general public. But in Leuven the university is an integral part of daily life.
Many of its institutions are open to all-comers, including its iconic library, its quaint and eerie zoological museum and its tranquil botanical garden, founded in 1738.
Established in 1425, the Catholic University of Leuven (aka KU Leuven) is the Oxbridge of Belgium – and like Oxford and Cambridge, it consists of lots of colleges, scattered all around town.
The city and its historic colleges are so closely intertwined that it's hard to walk anywhere without taking a handy shortcut through one or two of them.
KU Leuven is the oldest university in the Low Countries, but the ambience is friendly and inclusive. There's no snobby separation between town and gown.
Over the last 600 years, Leuven University has been a magnet for some of Europe's brightest boffins, and the brightest of them all was Erasmus of Rotterdam, one of the greatest thinkers of the Renaissance. Over 500 years since he departed, his friendly ghost still looms large in this studious yet unpretentious place.
Erasmus was great friends with Sir Thomas More (immortalised in Robert Bolt's timeless play, A Man for All Seasons), and in 1516 he published More's Utopia here in Leuven.
More is best known in Britain as the saint and martyr who lost his head rather than recognise King Henry VIII's newfangled Church of England, but in Leuven he's best known as the author of this fascinating, idealistic work of fiction, which foresaw a future society in which education was free for all, and private property had been abolished.
Leuven has always been a forward-thinking place. Arguably its most progressive (and certainly its most picturesque) feature is its medieval Beguinage – a city within the city where a community of independent women lived and prospered, entirely without men.
It sounds like some sort of hippy feminist collective, but it was founded way back in the 13th century and endured and thrived for over 700 years. The buildings are now owned by the university, and are no longer solely for single women, but their antique ambience has been perfectly preserved. It's like stepping into a painting by Breughel.
Leuven's greatest artist is Dierec Bouts – relatively unknown outside his native Flanders and therefore all the more fun to discover.
Born in Haarlem in 1415, he spent most of his life in Leuven, dying here in 1475.
Leuven's user-friendly M-Museum has a good collection of his intricate, realistic paintings, but his greatest hits are around the corner in St Peter's Church – a gorgeous slice of ornate Gothic architecture, now a World Heritage Site.
Bouts' undisputed masterpiece is The Last Supper, renowned for its innovative use of perspective, but art lovers with more sadistic appetites will relish his Martyrdom of St Erasmus – no relation – in which the stoical patron saint of stomach ailments (appropriately enough) is meticulously disembowelled with the aid of a trusty windlass.
If culture and academia were all that Leuven had to offer, it'd be a rather dry and worthy place. Thankfully, its students give it a youthful, optimistic air. There are loads of cool bars and cafes, and bicycles absolutely everywhere.
This is the home of Stella Artois and though it may be just my imagination, I feel sure their crisp draught lager tastes better here than it does anywhere else on earth.
You can visit the modern brewery for tours and tastings, but my favourite spot is the old brewery, De Hoorn, which is now a suave events space and a lively bar and restaurant.
For something smarter head across the street to Gastrobar Hop, where the debonair tasting menu is paired with a scrumptious selection of Belgian beers.
On my last day, I walk out to Arenberg Castle, on the green edge of town. Remarkably, this imposing stately home is also part of the college campus. My expert guide, Marlene Verboomen, really brings the place alive.
She explains the castle's many ups and downs – from fortress to mansion, from seat of nobility to seat of learning. It's an enchanting place, a bucolic refuge from the urban bustle, surrounded by ancient woods and lush meadows. There are lots of students here, but just as many visitors.
We stroll back into the town through leafy parkland. The student halls of residence are hidden among the trees.
It must be wonderful to come and study here, but what's so special about Leuven is that its venerable university is a playground for everyone – locals and outsiders, young and old.
We finish up at Bar Eclektic, a stylish little café on Hogeschoolplein, one of Leuven's nicest, smartest city squares. A short walk to the station, a local train to Brussels and a few hours later I'm back in London. Leuven isn't as dynamic as Antwerp.
It isn't uniformly beautiful, like Bruges. It's low-key yet full of interest, and that's why I like coming here. More than any other Flemish city, for me it's a place that feels like home.
How to do it
Travel from London St Pancras International to Brussels Midi with Eurostar and then on to Leuven with SNBC. The London to Brussels leg takes two hours. Trains from Brussels Midi to Leuven depart several times an hour and take about half an hour. A single ticket costs €6.70.
Stay at the Begijnhofhotel, a quiet and cosy modern four-star with a lovely little garden, on the edge of the UNESCO listed Great Beguinage. Doubles from €150, including breakfast.