The King and I, a tiger skin rug and a bottle of Bell's
I'm ashamed to say I knew almost nothing about Côte d'Ivoire, the French speaking West African country of 31 million, neighboured by Ghana, Liberia, Guinea and Mali. Its troubled history of two civil wars in the noughties, was my main point of reference.
Certainly, I couldn't have imagined its pristine beaches rivalling Thailand, an incredible culinary scene, the unforgettable nightlife of Abidgan or the thriving contemporary art movement. I did read in advance about how diverse this country is - Abidjan with so many skyscrapers it's known as the Manhattan of West Africa, the cocoa cooperatives producing more than 40% of the world's cacao, more than 60 ethnicities and 70 languages.
'I'm ashamed to say I knew almost nothing about Côte d'Ivoire, the French speaking West African country of 31 million' (Image: Kerry Hudson) But, how did I end up drunk in a King's compound, wearing traditional tribal dress?
I wake up under a mosquito net in a stilted hut overlooking wildlife reservation N'zi Lodge. As we drive the minibus down the rocky road, we catch glimpses of antilope, warthogs and a rescued White Rhino - once given as a gift to the first President.
On the journey to the political capital, Yamoussoukro, where we'll spend the next 24 hours, I watch as life spills out of roadside markets. It's two days before Eid al-Adha, also known as, The Feast of Sacrifice, and, with almost half the country Muslim, there are hundreds of goats - being led by ropes like stubborn dogs, lying on top of bright buses and crammed into red dust cattle markets - unaware of their fate.
In the middle of traffic, men sell Space Hoppers, machetes and bags decorated with seashells. Beside us, a truck drives by with a row of hammocks strung across the flatbed where labourers sleep, a bus passes featuring a mural of Che Guevara looking uncannily like Robbie Williams.
We pass something called a 'China Mall', mannequins by the side of the road with large round backsides that make me optimistic I might find clothes that fit me. A woman balances a huge basket of limes on her head, laundry is laid out flat on scrubby patches of grass to dry and stalls are piled high with sun-faded Manchester United tops.
Read more Kerry Hudson
It is said you cannot visit Yammousoko without also visiting The Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, which holds the Guinness World Record as the biggest church in the world. To murder a Groucho Marx quote, 'I refuse to join any religion that would have me as its member' but, in the way I have felt in mosques, temples and cathedrals around the world, I feel a tearful sense of peace in this construct of hope over experience.
Built in the 1960s by the first president, Félix Houphouët-Boigny, who wanted to honour what he believed was a time of 'God given' peace. Its 24 epic stained glass windows were designed and created by artisans in Burgundy, France and I'm told not a single pane broke in transit - an act of God indeed. There is also an altar carved with marble from Carrera, Italy, and a teak Virgin Mary statue carved by a prisoner of Muslim faith and it was designed by a Lebanese Ivoirian architect, Pierre Fakhoury. Quite the international affair.
The next stop is to the village of Kondéyaokro via, sure, why not, a river of two-hundred crocodiles, in the centre of the city. They are apparently very popular and judging from the way they all swim to the edge and stare at us with unsettling gimlet eyes, I can only assume they're expecting dinner in one form or another.
We are accompanied to the village, 40 minutes out of town, by a truck of armed guards with automatic rifles. I'm told reassuringly, this is normal for official delegations.
After a Goli Dance, a traditional masked performance, we're invited into King Nana Yao Daniel's compound, a large, squat bungalow with five gold and velvet thrones accommodating the fully-robed king and with his most trusted advisors.
The decor is gilded maximalism, there are swan vases stuffed with plastic flowers, carved teak elephants, a tiger skin rug, and, on the back wall, a big TV with the 'Action Channel' on mute showing a very young Dwayne Johnson. I don't know what I expected from a king - I turned down my last invite to Buckingham Palace - but I'll come here any time.
We're given large measures of Bell's whisky (as the only Scot, I am given double). The men in our party are bestowed a tuft of tiger fur from the rug, the women a strand of horse tail, both for good fortune.
Côte d'Ivoire is off the beaten track for tourists (Image: Kerry Hudson) Then there is more, so much more, whisky and photos before we're called outside for a dinner of carp, tomato and onion salad, boiled yams and the gifting of our tribal robes. Each of the armed guards is given a carton of local red wine, the visitors, a bordeaux as a sign of hospitality. A dog called Commander and a straggle of rangy ginger kittens roam about. It's a party. Even when the heavens open with thunder and lightning and we carry our tables to the porch, the night is full of laughter.
At around 11pm, as is tradition, we ask the king, 'for the road' and drive through a man-made slalom of sandbags and plastic barrels, ingeniously designed to stop speeding. Was it all a show for us visitors? Perhaps. But it felt deeply genuine. Everyone in our group, most far better travelled than me, agreed, 'This is the sort of thing you get on a plane for!'
The Côte d'Ivoire offers a perfect adventurous experience, to see things others don't, to connect with people you might never have met, to raise a glass of Scotch, maybe even a double, to an entirely different way of life.
Kerry Hudson is an award-winning, bestselling novelist and memoirist. You can find her on Instagram and on Threads @ThatKerryHudson
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The Herald Scotland
9 hours ago
- The Herald Scotland
The King and I, a tiger skin rug and a bottle of Bell's
I have travelled a lot and as global tourist infrastructure has improved, so has the 'Airbnbfication' of even the furthest flung places, hitting the road feels an ever more homogeneous experience. Côte d'Ivoire? This felt like an opportunity for real adventure, to discover somewhere no one else I knew had ever been. I'm ashamed to say I knew almost nothing about Côte d'Ivoire, the French speaking West African country of 31 million, neighboured by Ghana, Liberia, Guinea and Mali. Its troubled history of two civil wars in the noughties, was my main point of reference. Certainly, I couldn't have imagined its pristine beaches rivalling Thailand, an incredible culinary scene, the unforgettable nightlife of Abidgan or the thriving contemporary art movement. I did read in advance about how diverse this country is - Abidjan with so many skyscrapers it's known as the Manhattan of West Africa, the cocoa cooperatives producing more than 40% of the world's cacao, more than 60 ethnicities and 70 languages. 'I'm ashamed to say I knew almost nothing about Côte d'Ivoire, the French speaking West African country of 31 million' (Image: Kerry Hudson) But, how did I end up drunk in a King's compound, wearing traditional tribal dress? I wake up under a mosquito net in a stilted hut overlooking wildlife reservation N'zi Lodge. As we drive the minibus down the rocky road, we catch glimpses of antilope, warthogs and a rescued White Rhino - once given as a gift to the first President. On the journey to the political capital, Yamoussoukro, where we'll spend the next 24 hours, I watch as life spills out of roadside markets. It's two days before Eid al-Adha, also known as, The Feast of Sacrifice, and, with almost half the country Muslim, there are hundreds of goats - being led by ropes like stubborn dogs, lying on top of bright buses and crammed into red dust cattle markets - unaware of their fate. In the middle of traffic, men sell Space Hoppers, machetes and bags decorated with seashells. Beside us, a truck drives by with a row of hammocks strung across the flatbed where labourers sleep, a bus passes featuring a mural of Che Guevara looking uncannily like Robbie Williams. We pass something called a 'China Mall', mannequins by the side of the road with large round backsides that make me optimistic I might find clothes that fit me. A woman balances a huge basket of limes on her head, laundry is laid out flat on scrubby patches of grass to dry and stalls are piled high with sun-faded Manchester United tops. Read more Kerry Hudson It is said you cannot visit Yammousoko without also visiting The Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, which holds the Guinness World Record as the biggest church in the world. To murder a Groucho Marx quote, 'I refuse to join any religion that would have me as its member' but, in the way I have felt in mosques, temples and cathedrals around the world, I feel a tearful sense of peace in this construct of hope over experience. Built in the 1960s by the first president, Félix Houphouët-Boigny, who wanted to honour what he believed was a time of 'God given' peace. Its 24 epic stained glass windows were designed and created by artisans in Burgundy, France and I'm told not a single pane broke in transit - an act of God indeed. There is also an altar carved with marble from Carrera, Italy, and a teak Virgin Mary statue carved by a prisoner of Muslim faith and it was designed by a Lebanese Ivoirian architect, Pierre Fakhoury. Quite the international affair. The next stop is to the village of Kondéyaokro via, sure, why not, a river of two-hundred crocodiles, in the centre of the city. They are apparently very popular and judging from the way they all swim to the edge and stare at us with unsettling gimlet eyes, I can only assume they're expecting dinner in one form or another. We are accompanied to the village, 40 minutes out of town, by a truck of armed guards with automatic rifles. I'm told reassuringly, this is normal for official delegations. After a Goli Dance, a traditional masked performance, we're invited into King Nana Yao Daniel's compound, a large, squat bungalow with five gold and velvet thrones accommodating the fully-robed king and with his most trusted advisors. The decor is gilded maximalism, there are swan vases stuffed with plastic flowers, carved teak elephants, a tiger skin rug, and, on the back wall, a big TV with the 'Action Channel' on mute showing a very young Dwayne Johnson. I don't know what I expected from a king - I turned down my last invite to Buckingham Palace - but I'll come here any time. We're given large measures of Bell's whisky (as the only Scot, I am given double). The men in our party are bestowed a tuft of tiger fur from the rug, the women a strand of horse tail, both for good fortune. Côte d'Ivoire is off the beaten track for tourists (Image: Kerry Hudson) Then there is more, so much more, whisky and photos before we're called outside for a dinner of carp, tomato and onion salad, boiled yams and the gifting of our tribal robes. Each of the armed guards is given a carton of local red wine, the visitors, a bordeaux as a sign of hospitality. A dog called Commander and a straggle of rangy ginger kittens roam about. It's a party. Even when the heavens open with thunder and lightning and we carry our tables to the porch, the night is full of laughter. At around 11pm, as is tradition, we ask the king, 'for the road' and drive through a man-made slalom of sandbags and plastic barrels, ingeniously designed to stop speeding. Was it all a show for us visitors? Perhaps. But it felt deeply genuine. Everyone in our group, most far better travelled than me, agreed, 'This is the sort of thing you get on a plane for!' The Côte d'Ivoire offers a perfect adventurous experience, to see things others don't, to connect with people you might never have met, to raise a glass of Scotch, maybe even a double, to an entirely different way of life. Kerry Hudson is an award-winning, bestselling novelist and memoirist. You can find her on Instagram and on Threads @ThatKerryHudson
Wales Online
9 hours ago
- Wales Online
I stayed at one of the most luxurious apartments in Wales with the best sea view
I stayed at one of the most luxurious apartments in Wales with the best sea view A hidden gem in the heart of one of Wales' most wonderful coastal towns that's the best I've ever seen - pop inside and have a look Mesmerising - the sea view from the French doors, not me (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) There's a hidden gem in one of Wales' most popular places to stay that is so breathtaking not just in its location but with the luxury that it offers that when we turned up to stay we really did not want to leave. If you tell people you're going to spend a night away in Pembrokeshire they usually visualise a pretty little cottage, a character-packed hotel, or a historic property but our place to spend a night was none of these and, in my opinion, it was better. Think Tenby and you probably think of the painted predominantly Georgian houses that line the clifftop roads. But our place to call home was an apartment that has gone from dated and drab to the most luxurious apartment I have ever experienced with incredible views from all the main windows but also a range of tech to keep the teenagers happy and clever, inspiring, and beautiful interiors to keep me enthralled. For more property stories sent to your inbox twice a week sign up to the property newsletter here. READ MORE: Incredible transformation of dated Tenby flat in a clifftop building into a luxury apartment with the best sea views YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Inside Martin Roberts' huge Welsh pub renovation project as he addresses lap dancing club rumours Gunfort Mansion above Tenby's South Beach that's hiding a gem of a property inside (Image: Item 2 Ltd ) Article continues below Well, of course, every frontline property in Tenby has a magnificent view but at Min Y Mor the owners who spent years creating this wonderful apartment have maximised its position above South Beach with window seats, a Juliet balcony, and a designer chair nestled within the bay of one of the two bedrooms that has a direct and uninterrupted view of St Catherine's Island and fort. The kitchen diner continues the contemporary design but with a coastal influence via the bespoke boardwalk-style units (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) But before we opened the apartment's front door and the air was filled with a chorus of excitement we had to find it. On the second floor of the Victorian Grade II-listed Gunfort Mansion the front door of the building was tucked away to the side of the property. Once inside a climb to the second floor was totally worth it as Min Y Mor is waiting to mesmerise you. Step inside and the apartment welcomed us with a whitewashed and contemporary interior design. The bay window in the lounge and principal bedroom both have window seats to enjoy the view over Tenby's South Beach (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) But this is not some cold and clinical interior design – there's texture and use of a range of natural materials to ensure the spaces are visually inviting yet keeping the décor neutral perfectly frames the multiple views out of the bay windows and French doors of the stunning blue ocean and nature's own artwork of wispy clouds dancing across the huge sky. Look in the other direction to admire St Catherine's Island (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) The day was a hot one so we opened the French doors and the sound of the waves became the backdrop of our stay and the window seats were all utilised for gazing out across this landmark coastal landscape. The apartment has a way of helping you to quickly relax as you're a five-minute walk from the centre of Tenby and the steps down to South Beach are literally opposite the front door. But being this high up from the throng of people below and so connected to the views at each window you feel like you are in the view, in the water, floating through the sky. Two rooms have been made one broken-plan space with the most of the dividing wall gone (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) There are many clever features to discover in this amazing apartment – the copper bath lit from below, the circular bookshelf embedded into the wall, the bunkbeds also hiding within a wall that includes a secret door up to a mezzanine. But it was the cinema screen and access to multiple streaming channels including Disney+ and Amazon Prime that mesmerised the younger generation (and yes okay, me too). There was good free wifi too which made everyone happy. The cinema screen TV and all the streaming services were a big hit (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) Cleverly hidden behind a piece of wall art that slowly slides open, the screen impressed everyone and Peaky Blinders and The Mandalorian looked even more incredible in this mini home cinema while relaxing on the oversized curved sofa. At some point I wandered off to the second bedroom with a glass of wine and sat in the designer 'saddle' chair with footstool in the bay window and watched the tide slowly meander up the beach and people strolling around St Catherine's Island. The welcome basket of local produce left by the owners came with me and was a delightful companion. The designer chair in the bay of bedroom two has an amazing view of Castle Beach and St Catherine's Island (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) When I surfaced from my surprise kip in the chair, the result of an afternoon glass of wine, the surround sound system had been discovered and Dua Lipa was serenading us from every angle while we made plans to go out to get a fish and chip takeaway dinner. The kitchen is well-equipped but with only 24 hours to enjoy our trip to Tenby it felt almost like the law that we had to try out the town's fish and chips, eating it at the dining table. The view from the open French doors in the kitchen diner was special too (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) The kitchen diner area is another thoughtful use of space and design. The kitchen is bespoke and handmade and not sleek and shiny but more in keeping with the apartment's location. It's made from wood that has been whitewashed to give it a slightly sun-kissed and weathered look it blends into the overall design and yet stands its ground as a point of interest. Fish and chips takeaway dinner with a duet of views as a welcome guest (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) Dining chairs can take up a lot of space so to combat this two seats out of the size were built into the end of the kitchen units and work surface – genius. It's hard to describe just how relaxing and memorable it was eating as a family with the French doors open and the sound of the waves and the view of the ocean a welcome extra guest at the table as the sunlight began to fade into night. Clever way to share light between two internal spaces and yet keep privacy (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) More genius ideas to make a smaller space work well was found in the shower room – with space tight in the room that used to be a corridor the shower was a Jack and Jill shower in the middle of the room, with extra light brought into the space by high-level slatted internal windows in the dividing wall with the principal bedroom. Maybe the feature, other than the magnificent dual-aspect views and the mega TV, that impressed the most was the copper bath, lit from below and the main statement piece in the principal bedroom en suite. For more property, renovation, and interior design stories join our Amazing Welsh Homes Facebook group here. The bath was a thing of beauty (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) Both bathroom facilities were fascinatingly-designed spaces – dark colours, a mix of functional and also mood lighting, and key tactile features such as exposed brick walls, which was such a visual contrast to the white and contemporary living and sleeping areas. Lighting is always key to a successful interior design and as the evening crept in it was obvious that the family had thought about the ambience of the apartment during the dark hours when renovating this property. Fluffy cloud statement light in the lounge became very atmospheric at night (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) Hidden LED lighting and spots highlighted artwork and sculptures and statement ceiling pendants in the kitchen and bedrooms added pools of soft light. The statement overhead light in the living room was a thing of beauty – like a cloud floating below the ceiling in the day, concealing bulbs within its fluffy folds, and glowing like a dusky sunset in the night. Integrated into the wall, the bookcase was an inventive feature (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) One inventive design idea that I am definitely pinching and taking home with me is placing a mirrored coffee table under an expensive statement light – you get then two statement lights and don't have to look up to admire it. Principal bedroom had sliding doors to save space but frosted as the genius way to keep privacy but share light into the darker en suite behind it (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) So bedtime was upon us and the very comfortable beds, crisp white sheets, and soft pillows made drifting off to sleep an absolute dream. The apartment hasn't always looked like this slice of luxury – although much-loved when the owners inherited it the flat was a maze of smaller rooms with dated décor. The kitchen and living room have been connected via the open archway to create the broken-plan kitchen lounge diner which also means both spaces can enjoy a triple view of the sea, sky, and beach. All the beds were super-comfortable and the white cotton linen made them feel very luxurious (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) The bedrooms and bathrooms are unrecognisable and the clever use of space has added the extra shower room and an extra bedroom with bunkbeds – find out the renovation story and see the before and after renovation transformation photos here. The family had a vision of how they wanted to do a high-end, carefully considered full renovation of the flat, with the sea views at the core of the plan, to produce the designer apartment of their dreams and I would say they have definitely achieved that. Ship cabin-style bunkbeds built into the wall next to the kitchen would be a child's dream sleeping space (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) It is so obvious that this makeover into a luxury apartment has taken time, thought, and a significant budget but to create a contemporary space (and one that is mainly white which was a worry at the beginning of our stay because I am so clumsy) and make it welcoming too is a talent and Min Y Mor is a masterclass of remodelling and interior ideas that can inspire anyone who comes to stay – if they can ever take their eyes of the amazing sea views. To fit an extra shower room inside the space that used to be a corridor it was designed with a Jack and Jill shower in the middle and two entrances (Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales ) Outside Gunfort Mansion looks drab next to its colourful neighbours having not been lavished with a standout shade that Tenby has become known for – it still wears its coat of grey rendering. However the owners of Min Y Mor say the building, of which the family's flat is leasehold, is soon to get an upgrade on its external and community areas such as stairs and corridors. Min Y Mor can be booked via Puffin Cottage Holidays so you can try it out yourself and one thing is for sure – I will be going back to stay again and will count the days until I do. Article continues below Find your own luxury apartment or renovation property here:
Daily Mirror
10 hours ago
- Daily Mirror
People have been pronouncing Moet wrong their whole lives
Moët & Chandon is one of the world's largest champagne producers, and although they produce over 28 million bottles every year, there's still a big debate about how to pronounce the name Moët & Chandon, also known simply as Moët, is one of the most famous drinks in the world. It's one of the world's largest champagne producers, and was established in 1743 by Claude Moët. The company produces around 28 million bottles every year, and people love its dry, crisp taste and rich history. However, despite its popularity, it seems many Champagne lovers have been pronouncing the name of the brand wrong this whole time. Sinem, also known as The Sinfluencer, who posts online about mum life, shopping, travel and make up, recently shared the revelation on TikTok. In a post where her husband Ralph, who is from the Netherlands, featured, they discussed the correct pronounciation of the sparkling beverage. They were asked by one of her 223k followers: "Could you both clear up the debate on how to pronounce Moët please?" Sinem explained: "Years ago a lot of us wanted to sound posh, or be posh, and go 'Mo-way'. Could I have a glass of Mo-way? and then it changed and people started to say Mo-wett." However, Ralph, who Sinem has previously referred to as a wine expert, said: "It has never changed. There's only one right way of saying it. Mo-wett et Chandon." Contrary to popular belief, there is no silent 't' in the name. The confusion arises because many words in French drop the t. However, in French the general rule doesn't apply to nouns such as names and Places. Myreille Pawliez, senior lecturer in French at Victoria University, told Vinepair: "Proper nouns in French, which include names of people and places, don't follow the general rule and because there are so many exceptions it can get confusing. In this case it is two proper names put together (Moët et Chandon) and you just have to know how to pronounce them." To confuse matters further, although Moët himself was born in France in 1683, his name isn't French - it's Dutch - a language where the 't' is pronounced. Ralph's theory as to why many people say 'Mo-way' is because it "sounds more fancy", and when asked who started saying it like that, he joked: "The Brits." Taking to the comments section, one person explained further: "Because everyone assumes it is a full French name - if it was, Moët would be pronounced without the t - but Moët is a Dutch name and Chandon is French." Another clarified: "You pronounce the T because Moet was Dutch … it had two dots over the 'e' … I went to a function hosted by Moet & Chandon. I've been pronouncing it with the T for 35 years and had to buck the raised eyebrows and ignore the ignorant … thanks for highlighting the correct pronunciation. I'm now not the only one." However, not everyone knew the correct pronunciation. One person said: "Aww love that thank you so much for clearing that one up, I knew you were the best people to ask." While another simply said: "That's fascinating thank you!"
