‘Chappal chor': Kolhapuri craftsmen meet CM protesting Prada rip-off
MUMBAI: Italian luxury fashion house Prada's showcase of the Kolhapuri chappal-inspired footwear – T-strapped, flat and intricately braided – at the Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection in Milan earlier this week, has drawn censure from artisans of Kolhapur, where the humble footwear originated in the 12th century. It was awarded a GI (Geographical Indication) tag by the Government of India in 2019. Crossover or cultural theft? The iconic Kolhapuri chappals, handcrafted by generations of artisans in Kolhapur, struts onto the global stage after Prada introduced the footwear during the Milan Fashion Week priced for over ₹ 1 Lakh. (Hindustan Times)
The footwear, which defines casual chic in India, in its luxe avatar is priced at ₹ 1.2 lakh. In India a pair of Kolhapuri chappal is sold between ₹ 1000 and ₹ 4000.
Objecting to the European brand's cultural appropriation while keeping their craftsmanship in the shadows, a delegation of Kolhapuri chappal manufacturers met chief minister Devendra Fadnavis on Thursday requesting him to scale up the case of the brand creating a replica of their craft with the central government. The delegation was led by Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) Rajya Sabha MP Dhananjay Mahadik, who also requested the chief minister to intervene.
A leader who was present in the meeting, but did not wish to be named, told HT that Fadnavis has assured them that he will bring it to the central government's notice.
Mahadik is also planning to file a public interest litigation (PIL) against Prada at the Bombay high court (HC). 'We will soon move court with a litigation against Prada,' Mahadik told HT.
Speaking on behalf of the craftsmen, Mahadik said, 'We have no objection to an overseas brand using our design; we only want them to be sold in the name of 'Kolhapuri chappals'. That is our only demand.' He added, since the footwear originated from Kolhapur, the artisans 'should get royalty because Prada is selling each pair above ₹ 1 lakh'.
The letter, of which HT has a copy, submitted to the chief minister on behalf of the delegation termed the Italian fashion house's move a 'serious infringement on Maharashtra's cultural identity and artisan rights'.
It also stated that 'on June 23, 2025, Italian fashion brand Prada presented its Men's Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan, prominently featuring sandals that strongly resemble Kolhapuri chappals, a product awarded a GI tag by the Government of India in 2019'.
'It is reported that these sandals are being sold by Prada at a price of approximately ₹ 1.1- ₹ 1.2 lakh per pair (around €1,200). There is no acknowledgement of the source community, nor is there any revenue or credit flowing to the actual artisans of Kolhapur and nearby districts, who are the true keepers of this craft,' the letter stated.
It added, that this 'kind of commercial appropriation not only violates GI regulations, but also threatens the livelihood and dignity of the thousands of families involved in this traditional trade; the state must act swiftly and firmly'.
Reacting to the controversy, Nationalist Congress Party (SP) MLA Rohit Pawar called it a cultural theft. 'Prada's new sandal, priced approximately at ₹ 1 lakh, mimics Maharashtra's GI-tagged #KolhapuriChappal without crediting Kolhapur's artisans. This isn't just copying – it's cultural theft! If Prada won't respect our heritage by branding it right, the Maharashtra government must act against such #ChappalChor.'
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