Inside the Runway Moments Everyone's Talking About at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Elle

5 days ago

Is it just me, or does everyone get a glimmer of excitement (hope?) for the future of fashion when they see the runways of Copenhagen Fashion Week? For all the commentary that may stem from other cities, it seems as though CPHFW—with its commitment to sustainability and inclusivity, in addition to its remarkable talent—has become a favorite among fashion editors and industry insiders (no doubt in part due to its CEO, Cecilie Thorsmark). According to Chloe King, director of fashion and lifestyle at Saks Fifth Avenue, two overarching aesthetic themes stood out this season: the classic tropes of 'Danish summer' (easy poplin, lace and crochet, florals, and layered knits) and a Danish twist on the 1980s—think strong shoulders, polka dots and graphic prints, moto details, balloon pants, and micro minis.
And, of course, there's also the street style, where showgoers lean into the effortlessly cool (with a hint of kitsch) Scandi girl aesthetic. 'On the street, the flip-flop was clearly the shoe of the week—classic and effortless in both a leather kitten-heel version and a sporty rubber take,' King says. The pastel palette we saw on February runways came alive on the Danish fashion set in soft blues, butter yellows, and hazy grays. 'Polka dots were the standout print, and crochet hats or handkerchiefs emerged as the must-have hair accessories,' she adds. While no major fashion houses call the Danish capital home, there are, without a doubt, designers who have made a name for themselves—and for the city they reside in—generating buzz for what's to come. Established players, like Cecilie Bahnsen—who has shown in Paris for the last five years—made a triumphant return home to present a collection in honor of her 10th anniversary, showing iterations of her signature pieces, including ethereal dresses made of fabrics that float with each step.
Newer names, like Stem—a zero-waste fashion brand—hosted a makers' workshop, where attendees participated in basket-weaving techniques as part of the show. King also pointed to the debut of Nigerian newcomer Iamisigo, praising the 'fantastic cutting, emotionally rich silhouettes, and the way African craft complexity was brought into a contemporary context.' With such innovative minds behind these labels, it's easy to see why the trends that emerge from CPHFW continue to lead the charge.
If you're one to stay on top of the latest trends, study up on these—they're sure to make a lasting impact on the seasons ahead. Light as Air Open Gallery
I'm beginning to think of sheer materials as the new neutral—and if you ask me why, it's because I see it every season. King noted a clear styling shift this week toward layering. 'There was experimentation with sheer layering—embellished skirts over trousers and slips over knits—that added a femininity and ethereal quality to otherwise classic wardrobe pieces.' Sheer materials also dominated, from beautifully draped dresses and trousers as seen in Freya Dalsjø and The Garment to more unexpected takes (like a floral appliquéd dress at Cecilie Bahnsen or the sheer popover as a styling piece for Munthe). It's official: Sheer is a mainstay. Spotlights on Stripes Open Gallery
Polka dots may have been the print of the street style set, but the spring/summer 2026 season is all about its cousin, the stripe. Big, bold stripes made their way down the runways at Marimekko, Baum und Pferdgarden, and Munthe, but if you prefer them in their narrower form, they also made an appearance at Alis and Henrik Vibskov (for both the minimalists and maximalists alike). A Touch of Lace Open Gallery
Head-turning textures are nothing new for Copenhagen Fashion Week, but something I found particularly intriguing this season was the use of lace. More often than not, designers featured the fabric as a trim for an added hint of romance, whether it was on the edge of a pair of track shorts (like the pair that walked down the runway of The Garment), the hemline or seams of a dress (at Bonnetje and OpéraSPORT), or as unique detail for a top (at Rave Review). 'Crochet and lace brought an artisinal touch, even to the most minimal collections,' King says. 'I loved the oversized, relaxed trouser shape—not too exaggerated, but with a perfect low rise and just the right amount of pooling at the ankle to evoke a sense of ease.' The Power of the Scarf Open Gallery
Small but mighty, the scarf is having a major moment as a styling piece. We've been seeing this as a viral trend among It girls already, but Copenhagen Fashion Week has just solidified it as a bona fide trend—particularly in the form of a silk option tied around the waist, as seen on a model at Baum und Pferdgarten. The scarf has literally become your accessory's favorite accessory. 'Beyond the flip-flops and crochet hats, the east-west shoulder bag—already popular in other fashion capitals—was the key silhouette in Copenhagen, and accessories like scarves added even more personality to looks,' King says. Buttercream Delight Open Gallery
Tired of butter yellow yet? Fashion sure isn't. And maybe, like shades of green, this creamy, pale shade of the sunshine-y hue has been a neutral all along. Either way, you couldn't miss this on the Copenhagen catwalks. King tied it to the week's trend du jour. 'The pastel palette we saw on February runways came alive on the Danish fashion set in soft blues, butter yellows, and hazy grays.' King explains. This creamy hue in particular was spotted on MKDT Studio, Iamisigo, Skall Studio, Freya Dalsjø, Aiayu...the list goes on, but I'll stop right there. You just need to see for yourself. The Return of Red Open Gallery
Another color that dominated the runways? Red. Yes, red has been in many a trend story before, but after a short hiatus (perhaps to make room for all the butter yellow and icy blue out there), red is back—and it's the pop of color that I so desperately needed. Make a statement in head-to-toe red like the models of Niklas Skovgaard, Forza Collective, or Gestuze. Or, let it be one of the focal points of your look with a trench coat as seen at Skall Studio or Herskind. No matter what you decide, it's bound to clock with someone. Eclectic Romance Open Gallery
I can only speak for myself, but if I'm going to dress in any way that feels overtly romantic, it'll be the Scandi girl way. Undeniably whimsical without wasting a drop of streetwear cool, this season proved that yes, you can find equilibrium between the two—and one of the best ways to do that is with updated textures. Case in point: Cecilie Bahnsen's take on a sweatshirt and maxi skirt paired with the latest sneakers from her Asics collaboration. Another example is the textured open cardigan styled with cargo pants spotted at OpéraSPORT. Of course, if you want a more straightforward example, Gestuz styled a flowy bohemian-inspired dress with snakeskin-print boots. Bigger Bags Open Gallery
To be honest, I never fully understood the microbag trend—especially as a woman who schleps through New York City with her whole life in her bag. So you can imagine my delight when I noticed that extra-large bags continue to be a trend on the CPHFW runways. Totes positioned as oversized, slouchy clutches in the crook of a model's arm were the name of the game here, so you best get those arms ready. Schlep on, my friends. Why Trust ELLE
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