The most romantic place on earth? It has to be a sleeper train
Not that I know of. I love travelling by train – even now, when it's as comprehensively bad as British rail privatisation has made it for, well, just about everyone save a few shareholders and the CEO of Pumpkin Cafe. But travelling at night? With the whisper of romance in the buffet car, the flash of sunset from the vestibule and a white-sheeted bunk bed to call your own? I love it even more.
Fourteen minutes before being invited on to the night train from London to Penzance, you would have found me in the customer lounge, eating shortbread and drinking apple juice like a woman who has just been told she must consume 7,000 calories in 15 minutes or the whole of Paddington station is going to blow. Luckily, I wasn't averting an extremely specific act of terrorism; I was just getting my money's worth because, let me tell you, night trains aren't cheap. My husband and son managed to get to Italy and back by rail for less than it cost me to cross the Tamar on Great Western Rail.
But then again, can you really put a price on the extremely low-key glamour of washing your feet in the basin of a cabin that's approximately the dimensions of an understairs coat rack but with more lighting options than my entire house? To lose none of your holiday but be offered a shower at five in the morning at Truro station? To wake up in the middle of the night and take a pee outside Plymouth at 80mph? To get porridge delivered to your door by a woman in a bottle-green polyester uniform before looking out of the window and muttering 'Erth?' This is heaven. Or as Philip Larkin wrote, probably while on the 21.19 British Rail service to Hull: 'Here is unfettered existence: Facing the sun, untalkative, out of reach.'
Nell Frizzell is a journalist and author
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The new London hotel that feels like an A-listers apartment with retro rooms and fantastic restaurant
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27 of the best beaches in Spain
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This article contains affiliate links that will earn us revenue Menorca's rugged north coast, which receives fewer visitors than the island's south, offers natural beauty and tranquillity in spades. A case in point is the remote Cala Pregonda, home to distinctive, copper-coloured sands, dazzling turquoise waters and a string of rocky islets ripe for exploration. You'll need to pack enough drinking water, sun protection and snacks to last the outing's duration: getting here involves a 30-minute walk along a section of Menorca's historic, 115-mile Cami de Cavalls trail — and when you do arrive, there are no services. To find it, coming by car from Es Mercadal, take the road towards Fornells, turn off at the sign for Cavalleria beach, and then follow the path marked 'Binimel-la', where there's free parking. The second your toes sink into that glittering sand, every step of the journey will have been worth it. 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And what it lacks in size, it makes up for in drama, with burly rock formations framing the pretty shore. Walk a short distance north to Punta Penencia and its sweeping playa for signs of life. Stick around to watch the last rays of the day dip into the ocean. Just a short, scenic drive from Galicia's wildest sands, the red-roofed Parador de Ferrol offers maritime elegance in the heart of Ferrol's naval district. Its restaurant serves authentic Galician seafood specialities, and attractions including the Jofre Theatre and San Roque fountain are within a short walk of your spacious bedroom (ask for one with a port view). • Read our full guide to Spain The lapping blue waters of the Atlantic brilliantly contrast with gorgeous golden sands here. The 1.8 mile-long beach sweeps around the southern tip of Gran Canaria, backed by 400 hectares of rolling sand dunes dotted with native Canarian bushes that bask in year-round sunshine. 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Trebaluger belongs to the select group of unspoiled Menorcan beaches that can only be reached on foot, so have kept their beauty and tranquillity. Drive to the town of Es Migjorn Gran and from there to Cala Mitjana. From the car park, walk east along a signposted path through the woods (45 minutes). A river winds down a gorge towards the beach through a landscape of wetlands and sea scrub. There are no loungers, showers, beach bars or loos — just a curve of fine white sand, and calm, shallow waters cradled between outcrops of rock and forest. Oh, and there may be no swimsuits either: nudism is par for the course here. Wash the salt out of your hair at boutique hideaway Torralbenc. 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Bring whatever you need — and make sure to take it all away with you. While nearby Hotel Pleamar doesn't have all the bells and whistles of a big-name beach resort, its rustic, country lodge-style rooms — some with private sitting areas and whirlpool baths — are surprisingly luxurious for a three-star. There's a peaceful terrace and café, and guests are welcome to borrow books from the Pleamar's library. This stretch of sand is within easy walking distance of Praia de Rodas, the so-called 'loveliest beach in the world', but we actually prefer this one. The Cies Islands form part of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia Maritime-Terrestrial National Park. Rigorously protected and ravishingly beautiful, the islands have few buildings and just one place to stay (a campsite). Figueiras is tucked away in a magical setting, with rocks abutting the cove and forests tiptoeing down towards the sea. The beach is stunning, with snow-white sands that creak as you walk and Caribbean-blue water. 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Be aware that there is no shade on this pancake-flat peninsula, so bring an umbrella (especially if you're travelling with children). You can expect turquoise waters that mirror the Maldives, but a vibe that could only be Balearic. Hotel Dunas de Formentera's soothingly sandy-toned rooms offer plenty in the way of modern luxury, but TVs are provided only on request — all the better to give frazzled nervous systems a chance to reset. The infinity pool is a dream, and the breezy, open-sided restaurant Caliu doubles as a sun-dappled, all-day retreat, just steps from the shore. One of the best beaches on Spain's Mediterranean coastline, the blue flag Playa de Santa Cristina can't be beaten for its sparkling aquamarine water. Located in the resort of Lloret de Mar, to reach Santa Cristina follow the footpath from the car park at Ermita de Santa Cristina, a historic chapel after which the beach is named, through the pine and cypress trees. When you arrive, stretch out on the gorgeous strip for a lazy afternoon of rest and relaxation. Pack your goggles and enjoy a swim in the sun-warmed water. There's also a restaurant leading directly on to the beach. Seeking a fun Lloret de Mar base, slap-bang in the heart of the action? L'Azure fits the bill. With 411 rooms decorated in sunny yellows and smart blues, the hotel boasts several bars and restaurants, an adults-only rooftop pool, a well-equipped spa and a kids' splash park. It's only a 10-minute walk to the resort's main beach and a 20-minute walk to the ever-popular Water World park. This is the last stretch of the southern coast untouched by developers and it remains both wild and beautiful. South of the Sierra Alhamilla, Cabo de Gata is where Europe's only true desert meets the sea. Ten minutes from Almeria, take exit 471 off the A7 and follow the way to San Jose. From there, follow the signs to Playa de los Genoveses — a curve of silky volcanic sand lapped by lukewarm waters — and be sure to bring plenty of water. And beer. And a hat. The swimming is super-safe — you need to wade a good half mile before the water is chest deep. For a deep-dive of a different kind, check into the Aire Hotel and Ancient Baths in Almeria, where thermal wellness packages blend Roman, Greek and Ottoman traditions to soothe body, mind and soul. Nourishing, plant-forward plates can be savoured al fresco on the decked rooftop terrace. Platja de la Granadella is a cove on the edge of the small town of Javea in Alicante. It's a great spot for avoiding some of the more popular beaches of the Costa Blanca, though you'll need to pack your sunglasses to protect your eyes from the dazzling white shore and bright turquoise water. This pretty beach, flanked by rocky cliffs, is accessed on foot or by car off the Carretera de la Granadella — and it's pebbly, which helps keep the tourists at bay (pack aqua shoes to protect your soles from the gravel seabed). Locals still flock here for the blue sun loungers, thatched parasols and fresh paella concocted at the restaurant behind the beach. Water babies will be in their element at Melia Alicante, a sophisticated four-star bookended by Alicante harbour on one side and Postiguet beach on the other. There's nothing wrong with the main pool, but for added perks — such as an adults-only infinity pool and access to an open bar with free drinks and snacks — upgrade to premium category 'The Level'. Around an hour from the Roman ruins of Tarragona lies Punta del Fangar on the edge of the Ebro Delta Natural Park. The beach features curvaceous sand dunes on an unspoiled peninsula. If you tuck into Spain's most famous dish, paella, during your time on the Costa Dorada, chances are the rice and prawns came from the Ebro Delta. There are no facilities at Punta del Fangar, just striking views, the wetlands' spectacular migratory birds and the pearly-white lighthouse. While there are bucket-loads of sand on Punta del Fangar, there's zero shade, so it's essential to come prepared with a slathering of sun protection. Home to 17 comfortable bedrooms, the nearby Tancat de Codorniu is an imposing, 19th-century country house once used by Alfonso XII as a summer retreat. Highlights include two outdoor pools, a mini-golf course and the Michelin-starred restaurant Citrus del Tancat, where creative Mediterranean menus showcase the spoils of the estate's organic farm. Catalonia is home to some brilliant beaches, including Costa Brava's Platja Gran — the Big Beach — in Tossa de Mar. You'll know you've arrived when you spot the medieval castle, with its bastions and walls weaving down Mount Guardi towards the water's edge. Platja Gran is a family-friendly beach, with ramp access for wheelchairs, ample space to spread out on the honey-hued sand with the kids, an abundance of water sports, sun loungers and umbrellas. Once your skin is tingly from the salty sea, try one of the buzzy beach bars and restaurants serving cold cervezas and grilled calamari. You'll wake up to sparkling sea views at the clifftop Parador de Aiguablava — one of Spain's treasured state-run properties — where airy rooms, a fabulous pool and casual terrace dining do the property's Costa Brava headland perch justice. Sheltered coves and sandy beaches lie just minutes away, making this a popular choice for families. • More of the best places to visit in Spain A cliché of lofty palm trees and soothing, clear water, the family-friendly Platja d'Alcudia is on a sheltered section of Alcudia Bay, on the northeast coast of Mallorca, making it ideal for paddling in the shallow sea. The bay's carpet of soft sand features a wooden jetty leading into the water, where boats gently bob. Pedalos and kayaks can be hired by the hour. You'll also find fishing trips and boat tours leaving from the marina to the north of the beach. A short stroll from the beach, the five-star Zafiro Palace Alcudia delivers stylish, modern Mediterranean living and stand-out family features, including children's pools (complete with pirate ship, slides and a giant wet bubble) and fun workshops for kids aged 4-15. Fussy eaters? No problem. There are five restaurants to choose from, serving everything from sushi to pasta and pizza. This is one of the best beaches in Ibiza, thanks to its striking blonde sand and convenient location near the capital, Ibiza Town. Playa de Talamanca is a marvellous spot for people-watching and has some of the island's best restaurants. You should arrive early to beat the throngs of beach revellers — particularly if your visit coincides with Ibiza's party season, which ramps up in May and slows down from early September. Hire a pedalo or jet ski and admire the shiny yachts that fill Talamanca's marina. Public bathrooms are located by the Italian pizzeria, on the eastern tip of the beach. Make like the original White Isle jet-setters and check into Ibiza Town's Montesol Experimental. Opened in 1933, the hotel was taken over by the hip, Paris-based Experimental Group in 2021, and now offers 30 rooms and three suites with swish, lunar-inspired interiors. The rooftop bar is a dream, as is the ground-floor Café Montesol — one of the best people-watching spots in town. • More great hotels in Ibiza• Best yoga retreats in Ibiza If you can overlook the waterfront high-rises — though they do hold a certain seaside charm — Playa de San Juan is one of the best city beaches in Spain, with an incredible four miles of pristine shoreline. Located northeast of Alicante, it may get busy during peak times, but with so much space you'll easily find a patch to claim as your own for the day. The area offers everything from beach volleyball to banana boat rides, while the palm tree-lined promenade that runs the length of the beach provides plenty of choice for eating and drinking. La Milagrosa is a family-run gem in Alicante's old town that keeps things simple but stylish, whether you opt for a room or apartment. The decor is fuss-free, prices fair, and the rooftop terrace invites lingering over sundowners. Museums, the basilica and pretty, café-lined plazas are all just a short stroll away. City beaches don't always get the credit they deserve, but what's not to love about a seashore that has velvety-soft sand and calm water within walking distance (roughly an hour) of Barcelona's epic Sagrada Familia? Enclosed between the sail-shaped W Barcelona hotel and Platja de Sant Miquel, the Platja de Sant Sebastia has no shortage of restaurants and bars. Lying somewhere near the end of Sant Sebastia and the start of Sant Miquel, an interesting marker to seek out is Rebecca Horn's L'Estel Ferit — a 10m-tall sculpture of four stacked, twisted cubes with windows. If your budget doesn't stretch to the W, try the 53-room Villa Emilia — a stylish, soundproofed property in leafy Eixample. With regular live music nights, barbecues on its rooftop terrace, and an attractive bistro to boot, it's no wonder this place is loved by locals and visitors alike. • Best luxury hotels in Barcelona• Best family hotels in Barcelona• Best restaurants in Barcelona Playa del Bajondillo is great for an old-school getaway in the lively Costa del Sol resort of Torremolinos — it's just a half-hour drive south of Malaga and less than a mile long. The waterfront is jammed with tapas restaurants and beach bars, while the powdery sand offers neat rows of sun loungers and parasols, making it a top spot for a lazy day at the seaside. Families flock here for the children's play area with a shallow shoreline suitable for little ones to paddle in. You could also ride the waves on a jet ski, kayak or pedal boat. For a comfortable, good-value base that lends itself to mixing sightseeing in Malaga with salt-sprayed, sandy adventures, check into Soho Boutique Hotel Las Vegas. Set directly opposite the palm tree-lined Playa de la Malagueta, this laid-back three-star has 107 bright, basic rooms, an outdoor pool and is only a 20-minute walk from Malaga's buzzy centre. Near the Roman ruins of Baelo Claudia, Playa de Bolonia — with its magnificent white sand — is one of the most tranquil beaches in southern Spain. Southwest winds whip at this coastal tip near the historic port of Cadiz. Instead of being a hindrance, the blowy conditions are a blessing, creating the perfect environment for kitesurfing (restrictions apply in high season when the beaches are busy). Playa de Bolonia is also known for its hulking sand dune, surrounded by a scattering of fragrant green pines and wispy beach grass. Swimwear is optional on Playa de Bolonia — at least on the shore's naturist section. For a boutique base in central Cadiz, consider Aurea Casa Palacio Sagasta, a beautifully restored baroque palace and one-time British embassy where you can swap sandy toes for laps in a spa swimming pool set beneath a vaulted, exposed-stone ceiling. There's no restaurant as such, but a buffet breakfast means you won't have to go far in search of morning coffee and pastries. The honey-hued shore of San Sebastian's La Concha beach is hugged by an elegant promenade, just a short walk from the city's famous pintxos bars and Michelin-starred restaurants. To the east side of the beach is Alderdi Eder, a fragrant park and gardens near the old town, with the Miramar Jauregia, a former royal residence, to the west. La Concha, the largest of two beaches in the bay, has a wonderfully nostalgic seaside vibe that feels like a warm embrace, even on a cool autumn day. Throw down a towel and take a dip in the refreshing Cantabrian Sea. Hardy beachgoers can swim to Santa Clara — a verdant island shaped like a camel's hump that rises from the bay — around 350 metres from the shore. Set in a 1912-built belle époque building overlooking La Concha's hallowed sands, the sleek Nobu Hotel promises best-in-show views from each of its 17 rooms. Chef Matsuhisa's artful cuisine —– including a certain black cod with miso — might be a big attraction, but it's the hotel's minimalist Japanese design, rooftop pool and A-grade people-watching that really seal the deal. • Best hotels in San Sebastian • Spain's best cities for food This delicious beach with gin-clear water lies mostly under the radar. Its remote location, on Fuerteventura's Jandia peninsula, is one of the closest points in the Canary Islands to mainland Africa. The beach is flanked by sugar-white holiday apartments and low-lying hotels, with bumpy dunes sloping towards the shore. Follow one of the paths carved out between the clumps of subtropical vegetation to find a soft patch on the pale sand. Sun loungers and umbrellas are also available for hire. Families enjoy the northern section of Costa Calma, where there's a playground near a scattering of beach bars. For watersports, stroll 30-40 minutes south to Playa de Sotavento beach, where windsurfers and kitesurfers can be found taking advantage of the Atlantic breeze. At the seafront Barcelo Fuerteventura Beach Resort — spanning four hotels — accommodation options include family-friendly bungalows and self-catering-ready suites that sleep up to seven. Boredom doesn't get a look-in here, with guests having the run of multiple pools and restaurants, a thalasso spa, gym, sports courts, mini-golf and an entertainment programme promising something for everyone. • Read our full guide to the Canary Islands Without hyperbole, Tenerife's La Tejita is one of Spain's most cinematic beaches. Here, on the southeast tip of Tenerife, below Tenerife South Airport, Mirador Montaña Roja looms over the almost mile-long beach. Sure, you could laze on the sand, enjoy cooling swims and watch kitesurfers that descend here when the wind picks up. You could also hike up the ochre-tinged Montaña Roja for endless blue views, looking out for playful bottlenose dolphins off the coast. Not a fan of tan lines? Lose your clothes on the nudist section of La Tejita, nearest to the mountain. Splurge on one of the 372 spacious rooms and suites at upscale family resort Bahia Principe Fantasia Tenerife, in nearby Golf del Sur, where magic of a different kind awaits. While the design might stick to a conventional colour chart of soft neutrals, everything else here aims to thrill, from the dizzying array of restaurants to the pièce de résistance, a Disney-style castle in the central pool area. All Spaniards know that some of the country's most spectacular beaches are dotted along the north coast, and the small region of Cantabria is no exception. Just 20 miles east around the bay from lively Santander, Langre combines a refreshingly out-of-the-way rural setting, rippling green fields and two golden sweeps of sand curled beneath the cliffs — classic Cantabria. Both Langre beaches front the open Bay of Biscay, making this a favourite spot among local surfers (take care with the currents). From Santander, pick up the A8 autovía then the CA-146 and wiggle north following Langre signs until you hit the coast, where steep steps lead down to the sand. Pack a picnic and everything you need for a day at la playa. Chic, adults-only hideaway Le Petit Boutique Hotel sits just a short stroll from Santander's old town and the city's beloved Sardinero beach — a long, sandy stretch dotted with cafés, restaurants and surf schools. There are just seven rooms, all of which take their design cues from various world cities, and while there's no restaurant, the team will be happy to recommend good spots nearby. Surrounded by southern Lanzarote's arid sun-baked landscapes, the wildly beautiful and undeveloped Punta del Papagayo promontory has some of the finest beaches in the Canary Islands. It sits within the protected Monumento Natural Los Ajaches reserve (pictured), just outside laid-back Playa Blanca. Lunar-like hills loom 500m tall behind a string of powdery, honey-coloured Atlantic coves framed by craggy, bare cliffs. Anyone driving should head a few miles southeast from Playa Blanca along a dusty track, but you can also hike here along the coast from Playa Blanca (or even further afield). The main Papagayo beach can get busy; arrive early, then wander over to Caleta del Congrio for more peace. The only facility around here is a breezy clifftop chiringuito, so bring snacks, water and beach gear. Kamezi Boutique Villas — a collection of 44 whitewashed beachfront abodes near Playa Blanca — combines the luxury of a hotel with the freedom of a private rental. When you're not floating in your private pool, you can float between the spa, gym and Michelin-starred restaurant, before grabbing your rental car from your private parking space and setting off to chase the sunset. • Best all-inclusive hotels in Lanzarote• Best luxury villas in Lanzarote The Marbella-centric Costa del Sol tends to bag the spotlight, but neighbouring Granada's Costa Tropical is a less-touristy treat for beach lovers. Playa de Cantarrijan is curled into one of its loveliest pockets, the Acantilados de Maro–Cerro Gordo nature reserve, where rugged coastal cliffs plunge into the turquoise water. This duo of silvery pebble-and-sand coves makes up one of Andalusia's original nudist beaches, though these days there's a mixed crowd. Popular chiringuito La Barraca is open pretty much year-round — perfect for some garlicky prawns with a tinto de verano (red wine cocktail) after a swim or some paddleboarding. For environmental reasons, private vehicles are banned from around mid-June to mid-September; hop on the shuttle bus or hike down to the beach (around a mile from the nearest parking). If you're looking to combine beach days with deep-dives into Granada's ever-evolving cultural scene, book a room at the turreted Gar Anat, in the city's hot-ticket Realejo neighbourhood. Built in the 17th century, this former inn for pilgrims now charms modern-day travellers with its literary-themed interiors, artisanal breakfasts and line-up of Alhambra excursions and flamenco experiences. This deserted stretch of cliff-backed golden sand is far away from roads and civilisation. Thanks to tricky access, Playa de Castilla doesn't attract crowds or families. Park under shady trees (look out for the Cuesta Maneli sign at kilometre 39), then climb the decked path to the top of the 110m-high Asperillo dunes, part of the protected Doñana National Park. You'll wind around pine trees, passing zingy yellow gorse, and after about 30 minutes you'll be rewarded with a glimpse of the Atlantic. Stairs take you down to an epic stretch of beach — sink your feet into the velvety soft sand and soak up the gold and cream-striped cliffs, footed by grass and wildflowers. There are rock pools for children to explore, but be aware that the beach is popular with naturists. Bring your own picnic as there's only a small beach bar. Bound for Seville and sad to leave the sea? Check into Hotel Alfonso XIII, a Luxury Collection Hotel, and make a beeline for the glorious pool, which is set against a backdrop of traditional tiles and Moorish arches. There's a pool restaurant on hand for drinks and light bites, but if it's fine dining you're after, make a reservation at the hotel's legendary Restaurante San Fernando. Additional reporting by Isabella Noble and Julie Alpine
Times
an hour ago
- Times
National Trust closes Cornish beach voted one of world's best
For decades, Cornish locals and discerning tourists have enjoyed the stunning scenery and turquoise waters of Pedn Vounder beach. Voted one of the top ten most beautiful beaches in the world by and named as one of Britain's best beaches by The Times, Pedn Vounder is a short walk from the village of Treen, which lies about four miles east of Land's End. But this week, at the height of the summer tourist season, the National Trust has chosen to close the beach on health and safety grounds. To the consternation of locals and tourists alike, the conservation charity has roped off the cliff access path and erected a large red sign that reads: 'Danger. No access.'
