Fashion label Cos launches in India

The Hindu

6 hours ago

When a minimalist brand launches in maximum city, you expect the contrast to jar.
After all, there is nothing minimalist about India. Luxury here typically envelopes you in sparkle, opulence, and chaotic colour. Yet, COS, known for its unapologetically practical aesthetic, manages to fit right in with its soon-to-be-launched Autumn/Winter collection, which is flamboyant with texture and extravagant with detail.
We are in Mumbai for COS' India launch, and the city is framed by brooding skies and lashing rain. An apt setting for the clothes, with their inky colours and liquid drapes. In October, the brand, which is an acronym for Collection Of Style, will open its first store in India, at in Delhi's Saket City Walk and this is a sneak peek at the collection.
Although it is owned by the Swedish multinational, H&M Group, best known for fast fashion, COS is is packaged as affordable luxury, offering elevated basics to build your wardrobe around. With a focus on timeless design and quality, innovative fabric, these are clothes that are meant to last. So the brand does just two collections a year, punctuated with drops and collaborations to keep loyalists' wardrobes updated. In the spirit of quiet luxury, minus the obnoxious price tags, these are clothes for people who have the confidence to step away from the incessant storm of micro-trends.
We are at the plush Four Seasons Hotel ballroom with influential design director, Karin Gustafsson, who has been with the brand since it began in London in 2007. The Spring-Summer collection, currently available at Cos' 238 stores in 48 countries is on display: neat rows of sculptured dressed, shirts and pants, set beside pointed suede mules, jelly ballet flats, and edgy translucent sock boots.
While Karin states that Delhi's Cos will not be launching any India-specific pieces, she does admit to being inspired by an afternoon in the raging Mumbai monsoon. 'There were pastel covered rain capes everywhere,' she exclaims in delight. 'Peach, blue, yellow, pink... It would have been good for us to have a stylish raincoat.'
The Autumn-Winter collection, which will be officially unveiled at New York Fashion Week next month, is under embargo for now. But Karin walks us through the highlights, and although the colours are restrained, the clothes and accessories are a joyous celebration of texture, which will appeal to Indian customers, particularly those of you who lean towards classics. (Karin also promises 'pops of colour' with each collection.)
Stating that India has 'been on the cards for quite some time,' Karin says they finally chose Delhi because they found what felt like the right location. While she does say that they plan to open more stores in the country, Karin adds, 'We have nothing official now. We are obviously always looking out for potential spaces.' COS will not be available online for Indian customers when they launch, so Delhi locals get first dibs. She adds that prices will be on par with those in London.
Describing her own aesthetic as 'Probably quite timeless in a way,' Karin says, 'I like to dress in a way that makes me feel at ease.' This influences to COS' aesthetic, which she calls 'Refined, effortless, timeless... But also modern.' She adds, 'We do our own research. We like to stay relevant.'
While there are lines for men and women, the style is fairly androgenous, ideal for today's gender fluidity: Karin says men wear the women's clothes, and vice versa. 'The clothes are a blank canvas for your personality,' she states. I have my eye on a couple of the sleek men's jackets, one of which has what Karin calls 'pony effect fur,' adding quickly with a laugh, 'No horses were harmed.' A faux fur, this has a textured, short-pile vintage look and feel.
Discussing the inspiration, she says 'We looked into mid-century Elizabethan fashion for the men's line. We also looked at old uniforms. The feel is utilitarian, with a lot of heritage textures and a lot of craft elements, like herringbone and leather suede. There is a rounder feel as well.'
For women, there is retro glamour from the fifties. 'It's an interesting silhouette,' says Karin, holding up a dress and explaining how it can be draped in multiple ways. She also picks out her favourites: a sleek investment coat with a glimmering dress underneath. COS typically does not do shine, so the Marilyn Monroe glamour of the new collection is a departure, and one that India is likely to appreciate. In keeping with tradition, the fabrics are luxurious: rippling cashmere, flowing silks and chenille with its subtle velvety sheen.
As for those of us hoping for an India-collab: never say never. 'We haven't got anything planned. When we do it, it will be when something resonates,' she says, adding seriously, 'I won't say no. We would never say no.'