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25 of the best things to do in Paris

25 of the best things to do in Paris

Times09-05-2025

Paris is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. That's not bragging — I live there — but simply a fact. Stroll along the Seine or scuttle through the cobblestone streets of the Marais and you'll find it nigh-on impossible not to swoon. But it's more than just a pretty backdrop. Along with its rich heritage, the French capital is also a bustling, diverse living city, over-brimming with distinct micro-neighbourhoods in every arrondissement. Whether you're interested in architectural splendour, irreverent entertainment, croissants, street food, art or shopping, this city really does have a version of itself to offer everyone. Here's an expert-picked selection of things to do in Paris — from the tried and true to the unexpected.
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The Île de la Cité is Paris's raison d'être: the island that bridges Left Bank and Right Bank. It's here that you'll find the biggest concentration of medieval heritage; take a private or small-group tour for insights into the gothic-era city, as well as 'skip the line' access to popular sights. Notre-Dame has now reopened to the public, so you can view the restoration work that was done after it was fire damaged in 2019, and you can also see inside La Sainte-Chapelle, an ethereal pinnacle of the Middle Ages, as well as the Conciergerie, whose ghosts of the French Revolution featured in the Paris 2024 opening ceremony.
• Discover our full guide to Paris
Head up to the Bassin de la Villette in the north of the city — a formerly industrial canal latterly transformed into an urban pleasure ground — and rent a boat from the popular Marin d'Eau Douce company. You're at the helm here, with a choice of self-drive electric boats accommodating groups of up to 11 for a very leisurely pootle (top speeds of 7km per hour) northwards, taking you up to the suburb of Pantin, home to a plethora of cool bars and arts venues. You can pack your own picnic or aperitif, and the time slot — from one hour to one day — is yours to manage as you see fit. Just be sure to leave enough time to get back to base.
boating-paris-marindeaudouce.com
• The best hotels in Paris
Forget the stories about Marie Antoinette and her imported Austrian habits: French breakfasts were a strictly no-croissant affair before the Viennese baker August Zang opened his shop on Rue de Richelieu in the late 1830s. Today pâtissiers compete for the title of best croissant-maker in Greater Paris. Experience what goes into this deceptively simple challenge during a croissant class near the Place des Vosges in the 11th arrondissement, which also includes the secret behind a good pain au chocolat. This is one discipline where flakiness is not a sin.
• Great affordable hotels in Paris – all under £150
It's hard to appreciate this in the post-skyscraper age, but when the Eiffel Tower opened in 1889it was almost twice as tall as anything ever built by human hands. Opting to walk up the first two levels can not only dramatically cut the queueing time, but also help to reinstil that sense of awe — over the course of 674 steps. Guides on small-group tours can fill in the historic context, and also take you to the often-missed first-level glass floor. The lift to the top from level two costs extra.
• Discover our full guide to France
Once threatened with being concreted over, the Canal Saint-Martin has in the past two decades been reappraised by Parisians, who now flock to its tree-lined banks, particularly come evening, to drink in some of the city's most creative bars. Two of the standard-bearers are Le Comptoir Général,a vast hidden maze of slick stylings and well-mixed cocktails, filled with plants and retro furniture; and Point Éphémère, a more industrial-feeling space hosting concerts, also by the water.
• Best Airbnbs in Paris
When Baron Haussmann masterminded the clearance of many old districts of Paris in the mid-19th century, giving much of the capital its distinctive look, there was one quarter that largely escaped his attentions. Le Marais is almost a city within the city, and within its proudly unrationalised street plan you'll find great diversity: stately 17th-century mansions on Place des Vosges, popular falafel joints in the old Jewish quarter of Rue des Rosiers, traditional shops such as Mariage Frères tea merchants, inventive fashion boutiques, gay bars and jazz cafés.
La Villette has the sprawling lawns, river promenades and sausage stands of a top city park. Yet here in the crook of the Périphérique, you can also explore the giant mirrored ball-shaped building containing the city's science museum and planetarium. Come at any time of day to ride the carousel, catch a free concert at the Philharmonic or watch old-school cabaret. The dress code spans tuxedos to swimming trunks, for dipping in the canal basin. Squint and the scene resembles a painting by Georges Seurat.
The MAD, Paris's answer to the V&A, is surely one of the city's most underrated museums. Housed in a wing of the Louvre accessible from the Rue de Rivoli, the elegant building showcases a dazzling permanent collection of exhibits tracing the history of fashion, interiors, jewellery and more, with entire displays dedicated to one object — chairs or vases, for example — through the ages. The temporary exhibitions are always interesting, and lately have included displays dedicated to a single designer — Dior or Schiaparelli, say — and a retrospective on the birth of the department store.
madparis.fr
The eastern neighbourhood of Belleville is both the working-class Paris of Édith Piaf and home to communities that have come from all corners of the world. It's famous as the city's traditional Chinatown, and you can discover all the flavours it has to offer, including Tunisian wraps and pastries, on a 'street food and street art' tour led by a local resident. With bold wall designs and far-reaching hilltop views across Paris, Belleville's streets are away from the big tourist circuits, and some tours end at one of the city's finest green spaces: Parc des Buttes Chaumont.Attractions at the Louvre fall into two categories: the Mona Lisa, and everything else. If you're happy to focus on the latter, you'll have an enriching and often quiet experience at the world's most popular museum. Other icons include the Venus de Milo and the Egyptian Seated Scribe, but for even smaller crowds head for the second floor or the entire Richelieu wing, with its galleries of French sculpture, decorative arts and painting up to the Louis XV period.
Nobody's quite sure, but it's likely that the term 'flea market' (if not the concept) originated in Paris. The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, north of the city, is the world's largest such market, containing 2,500 shops in 15 sub-markets. It can be daunting, although less so when you're in a small group looking around on a weekend with a guide who knows how the place works. Tour guides will highlight the character and specialities of the different sections, and offer insider tips on how to get a bargain.
The Arc de Triomphe isn't just a splendid arch and war memorial: it's the linchpin of the 'axe historique,' the urban axis that extends more than five miles from the Tuileries Gardens, along the Champs-Élysées and past the modern arch of La Défense. It stands in the centre of Place Charles de Gaulle (aka L'Étoile), and once you've braved the underpass and queued to get up top, it provides clear lines of sight along the 12 radiating avenues — and the mesmerising spectacle of 12 influxes of traffic trying to navigate one circle.
• Best boutique hotels in Paris
It's a pity the invention of the bicycle came too late to serve the royal court at Versailles: one suspects that Louis XVI, with his love of mechanical contraptions, would have been fascinated. But bikes are also particularly useful when getting around the 800-hectare gardens, first laid out for his great-great-great-grandfather, Louis XIV. A Versailles bike tour begins — after the train from Paris — in the town of Versailles with a farmers' market visit, and includes a tour inside the château (on foot) and a stop at Marie Antoinette's mock hamlet.
France may never have gone through American-style prohibition, but it did ban absinthe in 1915 — so it's not too much of a stretch to imagine a speakeasy when gathering in a historic vaulted cellar in Montmartre for an Airbnb workshop on the art of cocktails à la Française. Aspiring mixologists work with spirits selected for curiosity and rarity value, to follow three recipes and come up with one cocktail of their own. The 'green fairy' also makes an appearance, having been legalised again in 1988.
A visit to the Musée d'Orsay with kids in tow can be a mixed bag: Seurat's The Circus is full of life and motion, but the subdued colour palette of Whistler's Mother is likely to go over young heads, while Manet's Le Déjeuner sur l'herbe may prompt embarrassing questions. Help is at hand, though, with this family-friendly exploration of the majestic station-turned-museum, France's largest collection of art from the period 1848–1914. Even foot-draggers are likely to be inspired by the combination of tour and treasure hunt.
• What to do in Paris with children
The Bateaux Mouches and similar boats that ply the Seine are world famous; the Batobus is a little different. No commentary, no on-board restaurant, just uninterrupted views of Left Bank and Right Bank through the wraparound windows or from the small open deck at the back. This hop-on, hop-off service allows unlimited rides for 24 or 48 hours, with nine stopping points on its two-hour loop between the Eiffel Tower and Jardin des Plantes. Count off the bridges that pass overhead: Pont Neuf, Pont des Arts — 23 in all of Paris's 37.
Some say that Paris is best seen at an amble, like that of the flâneur walking nowhere in particular. The guides at Runrun Tours beg to differ. On routes of distances from a mile and a half to a half-marathon, they show Parisian treasures to groups at heightened heart rate, with everything from sunrise runs to night-time sprints under the city lights. Two of the tours involve challenges to work out the best route, and for history lovers there's a jog through the Latin Quarter that ends with an optional picnic in the Luxembourg Gardens.
runruntours.com
Auguste Rodin (1840–1917) was the genius sculptor of his age, bridging the gap between classicism and modern art. Although his works could be controversial in their time, they have been honoured since 1919 at the Musée Rodin, with the more central of its two sites housed in a mansion with grand gardens, on the same street as the French prime minister's residence. Alongside sketches and photographs, you'll find Rodin's greatest works in bronze and marble, including the harrowing The Burghers of Calais, and the self-explanatory The Thinker and The Kiss.
La Petite Ceinture ('The Small Belt') was a train line that encircled most of Paris's 20 arrondissements, until it closed to passengers in 1934, and was abandoned entirely in the 1990s. Today its future is up for debate: try to revive services, give it a visitor-friendly spruce-up like New York's High Line, leave it quietly to nature, or some combination of all three? For now, check the preservation association's website to find hidden walks along overgrown tracks in discrete sections, and bars, restaurants and cultural spaces in some of the old stations.
petiteceinture.org
Making a fashion pilgrimage in Paris doesn't necessarily mean the boutiques of the Golden Triangle or department stores such as Galeries Lafayette. Some of the most exciting finds are small independent brands in districts such as Le Marais — as you'll find when taking a fashion tour with Kasia Dietz. A handbag designer herself, she can arrange bespoke itineraries taking in anything from the city's best vintage shops to the big-name luxury labels. Along the way you can meet other local designers and gain insights into what makes up the elusive Parisian look.
kasiadietztours.com
For cultural interest on a strict budget, the city's municipally run museums and art galleries are good news. With some exceptions (notably the Catacombs), permanent collections have free admission. The Musée Carnavalet covers Parisian history, and you'll also find 20th and 21st-century works at the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris housed in the art deco-era Palais de Tokyo, mainly east Asian art at the Musée Cernuschi, and 18th-century interiors at the Musée Cognacq-Jay.
parismusees.paris.fr
There are few shows as famous as the one you'll see at the Moulin Rouge and fewer still that have remained on stage since the 1800s. Over 60 dancers and artists come together in this big-name Montmartre nightclub for Paris's headline act: a 90-minute show that's a flurry of feathers, sequins and risqué moves inside a grand ballroom. Be warned that lots of the acts are in French, but there are plenty of moments that won't need translating. You'll gasp with the rest of the audience as acrobats balance on top of wobbling towers of chairs, dancers dive into water tanks and the high kicks of the can-can begin. There are plenty of different packages available, some including dinner and drinks, and you may well share a table with good company — guests have included everyone from Elton John to Frank Sinatra.
France took an early lead in aviation, with the Montgolfier brothers launching manned hot-air balloon flights in 1783, and Sophie Blanchard later becoming 'official aeronaut' under Napoleon and the restored monarchy. It's fitting, then, that one of the world's largest capacity hot-air balloons should be in Paris. Permanently tethered at Parc André-Citroën in the southwest of the city, where it doubles as an air-pollution monitor, the Ballon de Paris Generali takes up to 30 passengers at a time (weather permitting) for ten-minute rides that supply views over the city from 492ft (150m) above.
ballondeparis.com
Montmartre is Paris's most famous 'village within the city', but on the opposite side of the capital's clockface, in the 13th arrondissement, is another hilltop quarter of cobbled streets, barely known by outsiders: La Butte aux Cailles. It has no big sights like the Sacré-Coeur, but is ideal for unhurried wanderings among art nouveau houses with pocket gardens, neighbourhood bistros and plentiful street art. You'll also find one of the city's best public pools, the Piscine de la Butte aux Cailles, with two outdoor pools and a splendid 1920s indoor one.
en.parisinfo.com
La Seine à Vélo's cycle route is waymarked from Notre-Dame ('kilometre zero') to Le Havre, but you don't have to pedal far to reach gorgeous impressionist landscapes. Hire a Vélib cycle-share and join the Seine path in Chatou. Glide past posh villas, mansard-roof manors, fruit orchards and weekend fishermen — as calm and captivating a scene as Pissarro and Daubigny captured 150 years ago. If it's summer, break for lunch outside Poissy at Guinguette des Villennes with a view to the willow-draped river.
laseineavelo.com
Additional reporting by Lucy Perrin, Rory Goulding and Ellen Himelfarb
• Most amazing French attractions to see before prices rise• Best Emily in Paris filming locations to visit

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Is it safe to travel to Jordan after airspace is shut by Israel-Iran conflict?
Is it safe to travel to Jordan after airspace is shut by Israel-Iran conflict?

The Independent

time6 hours ago

  • The Independent

Is it safe to travel to Jordan after airspace is shut by Israel-Iran conflict?

Amid ongoing hostilities in the Middle East, concerns over the safety of travel to and from countries surrounding Israel and Iran are heightened. Although the Foreign Office considers most of Jordan generally safe to travel to – bar the area up to 3km from its northern border with Syria – travel guidance has been updated to reflect ongoing events. As of 13 June, the Jordanian airspace is closed following Israel's overnight barrage of strikes on Iran, resulting in flight cancellations and diversions. Israel said 200 fighter jets took part in strikes on more than 100 targets in Iran overnight in an escalation that threatens to spark a wider conflict in the Middle East. Jordan, a popular winter sun destination for tourists, shares its northern border with both Israel and Syria, and travellers with trips booked may be questioning whether to holiday there. Here's the latest travel advice for Jordan, plus all the key questions and answers. What does the Foreign Office say? As of 13 June, Foreign Office (FCDO) advice for Jordan states: 'FCDO advises against all travel to within 3km of the border with Syria.' Travellers are warned that the security situation 'could change suddenly' in Jordan amid ongoing hostilities in the region and the conflict between Israel and Iran could escalate quickly and pose security risks for the wider region. The FCDO said: 'At 09:30am on 13 June official sirens sounded in Jordan warning people to stay indoors due to the risk of falling debris in anticipation of further exchanges between Israel and Iran. At 12:00 official announcements said the immediate State of Alert was over, but advised people to remain alert. 'If missiles are intercepted in Jordanian airspace, this may result in falling fragments and debris. If you encounter any projectile debris or fragments you should move away from them immediately and contact local authorities.' Its guidance notes that the situation in Syria is 'unpredictable' and the situation 'remains volatile and dangerous after over a decade of conflict and insecurity', advising against all travel to Syria. Recent protests in Amman about the Gaza conflict near the Israeli and US embassies and downtown may also 'heighten anti-western sentiment', say the FCDO. Are flights going to Jordan? According to the FCDO: 'On 13 June Jordanian authorities also announced the closure of its airspace. As of 1030 on 13 June Queen Alia International Airport was closed. This will result in flight cancellations and diversions.' It warned that Global Positioning System (GPS) signals may also be unreliable. Travellers in Jordan are advised to contact their airline and follow the advice of the local authorities. Leading leisure airport King Hussein International Airport in Aqaba, Jordan's southernmost point has very few flights scheduled, mainly on Royal Jordanian to and from Amman, and appears to be closed. The main airlines that fly from the UK to Jordan include British Airways, easyJet, Tui and Wizz Air out of London Heathrow, London Gatwick and London Luton. Royal Jordanian also departs from London Stansted and Manchester for Amman. Are cruises stopping in Jordan? Aqaba, Jordan's only seaport, sits on the Gulf of Aqaba at the tip of the Red Sea. Cruise holidays due to dock in Jordan were diverted or cancelled due to the Red Sea crisis and neighbouring conflict in January 2024. Simon Calder, travel correspondent of The Independent, says that the disappearance of cruises from the Jordanian port of Aqaba has 'crushed the tourist industry that depends on frequent arrivals of thousands of holidaymakers keen to visit the marvels of Petra and Wadi Rum'. So far in 2025, the only calls at Aqaba are occasional visits by Aroya, the Saudi cruise ship based at the Red Sea port of Jeddah. There is a long gap between 9 June, the last such call, and the arrival of MSC Euribia on 29 October – on a voyage from Southampton via the Suez Canal to Dubai. MSC Opera will call at Aqaba on 7 November on a voyage from Venice to Durban in South Africa. The Greek-based cruise line, Celestyal, will make a couple of calls at Aqaba on 7 November and 3 December. The next major arrivals will be in March 2026, when Tui's German cruise line starts calling at Aqaba. The Egyptian cities of Port Said and Alexandria are also likely to benefit from the relaunch of Suez Canal voyages. What if I have booked a package holiday to Jordan? Outside of the 3km radius between Jordan's northern border and Syria, the conditions for cancelling your trip will be dependent on your holiday provider, so it's best to contact them if you're looking to postpone. However, the main tourist spots – Amman, Petra and Wadi Rum – are a fair distance from here anyway. There is no obligation for companies to refund bookings if you want to cancel, and you will not be able to claim on travel insurance due to safety concerns unless FCDO advice changes.

9 of the best sleeper trains in Europe
9 of the best sleeper trains in Europe

Times

time7 hours ago

  • Times

9 of the best sleeper trains in Europe

There's something special about a sleeper train — it can actually make the prospect of getting from A to B an appealing part of the trip. It comes with a romance that you won't find attached to overnight flights or coach journeys, rocking you to the rhythm of wheels on steel while you watch the sun drop outside the window. You'll avoid a stiff neck from trying to sleep upright — a sleeper train offers a bed that's properly, 180-degree flat — and there's ample chance to go for a wander without worrying about seatbelt signs or narrow aisles. What's more, the boarding experience is more relaxed than the cattle-herding so familiar to those using airports, and often you'll alight at your desired final destination rather than at an airport an hour away. As you head to the dining car, or have a picnic in your cabin, read in your bunk or chat with a fellow passenger, you'll know too that you've chosen a greener way to go. Whether you're travelling on a budget or with the purse strings fully undone, sleeper services across Europe offer a range of options, from the pampering to the functional. Most services include compartments with cabins for two to four people and dormitory-style couchettes (seats that convert into sleeping berths) for six, as well as economy seat carriages. Here are the continent's best sleeper trains. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue Newest to the tracks — and sprinkling some serious stardust along the way — is the Britannic Explorer, run by luxury heritage rail operator Belmond. The train, which has two dining cars, a wellness suite and an observation car with art deco-styled bar, offers comfort of the highest order. There are five journeys to choose between, each departing from London Victoria: three-night trips to Cornwall, the Lake District or Wales, or six-night trips featuring Wales and either Cornwall or the Lake District. As well as enjoying some of the country's choicest inland and coastal scenery, you'll make stops for several off-train excursions along the way, from art galleries in Cornwall and hikes in Wales to a meal in the two-Michelin-star Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons in the Cotswolds. There are 18 classy suites, top-quality food and impeccable service. And, as you'd expect, whichever trip you choose, it will cost you a pretty penny. • Best places to visit in the Lake District• Best things to do in Wales The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is the grand dame of sleeper trains. After being featured in Agatha Christie's best-known novel, it's become the byword for yesteryear elegance and is one of the few surviving chariots of the golden age of travel. The interior has wood panelling and lush drapes, antique lamps and art deco mirrors, and a pianist in Bar Car 3764. Twin sleeper cabins have banquettes that are converted to beds after dark, while cabin suites have a pair of loungers. Splash out on one of the six grand suites for marble en suites, butler service and as much champagne as you can glug. The Eurostar will take you from London St Pancras to Paris where you'll join the Orient Express for the overnight leg to Venice. The following day, enjoy a lavish three-course lunch created by chef Jean Imbert, as well as afternoon tea, all served by liveried stewards. • Best affordable hotels in Venice• Best things to do in Venice The Caledonian Sleeper is not only a civilised way to travel between London Euston and Scotland but — if the moon is high — one that promises sweeping views of stately castles and remote Highland wilderness as night falls. There are several routes: the Lowland Sleeper service travels to Edinburgh and Glasgow, the Highland Sleeper to Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William. Accommodation options include the en suite Caledonian Double (with double bed; breakfast included), the en suite Club room (twin bunks; breakfast included), the Classic room (twin bunks and shared bathroom) and a seated coach. There are accessible double and twin rooms. Classic and contemporary dishes with a focus on Scottish fare are served in the Club Car, and when morning comes the menu features everything from porridge to a cooked full Scottish breakfast. Room service is available, cabins come with complimentary sleep kits and there's wi-fi throughout — these are new trains that provide proper 21st-century comforts. • Most luxurious hotels in London• Best hotels in the Scottish Highlands This option presents the chance to ride a train and a boat at the same time. The night train to Sicily departs Milan in northern Italy in the evening, heading south through the hours of darkness. Eat a small breakfast of coffee and a sweet and savoury snack in your cabin while admiring the coastal views around the toe of Italy's boot, before the train is divided into sections of four carriages and shunted on to a special ferry that takes you across the Straits of Messina to Sicily; you'll reach Palermo late that afternoon. Choose from four-berth compartments with couchettes (which can be converted to seats during the day) or one, two or three-bed compartments (with basins) in the sleeping car. The journey takes the best part of 20 hours; there's a trolley service with snacks and drinks, but no bar or restaurant car, so take provisions and fill up at the ferry café if you're running low. • Best hotels in Milan• Best hotels in Sicily Linking London Paddington and the West Country, the Night Riviera Sleeper runs back and forth between the bright lights of the capital and the beaches, fishing villages and wild corners of Cornwall. Services leave London shortly before midnight, taking a little over eight hours to reach the end stop at Penzance, where you can stroll across to the tidal island of St Michael's Mount. Trains the other way leave earlier in the evening and get into Paddington at around 5am, but cabin guests can remain on board until 6.45am, so you needn't rise with the lark. The train has a slick lounge area complete with art deco-style bar where you can stock up on snacks and drinks. Cabins have washbasins and are available in singles and twins; bookings include breakfast and access to first-class lounges (with showers) at Paddington, Truro and Penzance. Pets are welcome on board. • Best places to visit in Cornwall• Best hotels in Cornwall This route links two of Europe's grandest, most romantic cities. Taking just under 15 hours, the train leaves Vienna in the early evening and reaches Rome at the civilised hour of 10.05am, giving you the whole day to explore the sights. Book a sleeper compartment (single, double or triple) — either standard or Comfortline (the former with basin and the latter fully en suite); or there are four and six-berth couchettes (shared bathroom), including a female-only option, and seating carriages. You'll be served either a Viennese breakfast of a roll with ham, or choices from a more substantial à la carte menu if you're travelling in a sleeping car. There's a bistro too, where you can buy snacks. • Best affordable hotels in Vienna• Best Airbnbs in Rome Although built just 40 years ago, the Royal Scotsman is already a legendary train, with lacquered wood and plush fabrics that evoke an earlier, golden age of travel. Today, it whisks you from Edinburgh into the romantic wildness of the Scottish Highlands, with a series of experience-led itineraries ranging across two-night trips focused on food, four-night journeys into the world of malt whisky, and week-long extravaganzas taking you on a looping tour right around the Highlands. Choose an ensuite twin cabin, or properly splash out on a Grand Suite, complete with personal butler service and a complimentary treatment at the onboard spa. The two mahogany-panelled dining cars offer haute cuisine that focuses on fresh Scottish produce, together with a selection of more than 50 whiskies. Prepare yourself for ancient castles, rugged landscapes and a dram or two of Scotland's finest. • Best affordable hotels in Edinburgh• Best restaurants in Edinburgh This is a double-decker train that charts a 12-hour northward course from the capital of Finland up to the heart of Finnish Lapland. The night journey takes you above the Arctic Circle, offering a chance to see the midnight sun or the northern lights (depending on when you travel) as well as meet Father Christmas at his village in Rovaniemi, where most passengers alight. There are cabins that sleep up to two and three passengers, and pairs of '2+2' connected cabins downstairs for groups of four. All cabins have bunk beds; those on the upper deck have en suite bathrooms. Cabins on the lower deck share facilities, but can be a better bet for families due to the adjoining rooms. Accessible and pet-frieldy cabins are available. The cheapest ticket is simply a seat only and there's a restaurant carriage that sells snacks and drinks. • Best northern lights igloos• Best northern lights tours Take an 11-day journey gliding through nine countries to tick off some of the world's most historic cities, including Ljubljana, Sarajevo, Belgrade, Skopje and Sofia. Most nights are spent aboard your hotel on wheels: the Golden Eagle Danube Express, which is firmly in the five-star category. Choose between deluxe (twin beds) and superior deluxe sleeper cabins (king-size doubles), each with wood-panelled rooms for relaxing during the day that are converted to bedrooms come night time. The restaurant serves up fine dining and you can enjoy a digestif in the bar lounge car, where a pianist plays in the evening. This is an inspiring, high-end trip with a price-tag to match. • Best affordable hotels in Istanbul• Read our full guide to Istanbul

The Côte d'Azur has reinvented cool — and it's stylishly affordable
The Côte d'Azur has reinvented cool — and it's stylishly affordable

Times

time7 hours ago

  • Times

The Côte d'Azur has reinvented cool — and it's stylishly affordable

There you'd be, driving past a screen of high hedges and electric gates on the French Riviera, wondering when you'll get another glimpse of the Mediterranean, and the hotel would zip past your window like a misplaced dental clinic from the 1950s. Straight out of Palm Springs, perhaps, or even Las Vegas. Long-slung, flat-topped and ever so modernist, the single-storey street front in the town of St Raphaël, between St Tropez and Cannes, is certainly eye-catching but it doesn't break the wall of overdevelopment that hems in so much of the Côte d'Azur. Nor does it promise anything approaching coastal splendour. A split second later, you'd put your foot down and accelerate off towards the glitzy Cap d'Antibes or the rocky grandeur of the Massif de l'Esterel. But you'd be missing out. Because that austere whitewashed façade hides one of the loveliest seafronts in the south of France — and one of the coolest Côte d'Azur hotels to have opened in the past ten years. Les Roches Rouges has just had an £11 million growth spurt too, expanding into a secret cove along the coast, and last month I was first in to have a look at what's new. The appeal is obvious as soon as you open the hotel's front door. Framed by a glass wall at the far end of its reception yawns a widescreen strip of sea and sky — and as you walk first towards it, then out onto the balcony, you realise you're not on the ground floor but right at the top of the building. Everything else (apart from one of its restaurants) drops away below you, clinging to the side of a cliff. Three floors of bedrooms, a small spa, another restaurant, a sizeable terrace: they're all there, layered up in a brilliant white slab of concrete that butts straight out into the glittering sea. It's so close, the waves seem to break right underneath your feet. 'It was built as a three-star in the 1950s and it was way past its best when we found it,' Billy Skelli-Cohen tells me when I join him for a drink on the terrace shortly after I check in. Skelli-Cohen is chief executive of the boutique hotel brand Beaumier, which rescued Les Roches Rouges from obscurity in 2018. 'Rescued' is the word, because this was not a rebuild. Beaumier's trick is to find dated but distinctive properties in extraordinary places and then work with what's already there — 'respecting the building's DNA', as Skelli-Cohen puts it. Elsewhere that means celebrating the playful, art nouveau architecture of the Grand Hotel Belvedere in Wengen, Switzerland, and preserving the muscular simplicity of a former watermill that is now La Moulin at Lourmarin in Provence. In Les Roches Rouges' case, it's about showing off its mid-century concrete rather than trying to conceal it — and then setting it against richly textured details. The library of hardback art books, the butterfly chairs and the alarmingly moreish cocktails all seem to have more impact when placed amid such architectural rigour. The colours, meanwhile, are muted. Think white walls, terracotta table lamps, ochre rugs and lots of cadmium red in the abstract art. Which is just as it should be when nearly every floor-to-ceiling window is a slab of dazzling blue. Almost all of them look straight out to sea. Add two swimming pools into the mix, as well as Michelin-starred food and room rates, including breakfast, that start from £338 a night (which counts as mid-range in these parts), and it's no wonder Les Roches Rouges quickly found its way on to many top ten Côte d'Azur hotel lists. Now Beaumier has gone a step further and invested in a second phase of expansion. Central to this new project has been an extension of the site westwards to incorporate a snack bar (focaccia sandwiches from £12), a place to launch the hotel's paddleboards and kayaks, a yoga studio and an annexe that adds 25 bedrooms, bringing the total to 67. Not surprisingly, on a coast where property prices can easily top those in Paris, it has cost a small fortune. But the money has been well spent. Les Roches Rouges can now extend its sense of ease and comfort along the whole length of this hidden (and nameless) cove. When half of Europe is jostling for elbow room hereabouts, that seems nothing short of miraculous. Inside, the new bedrooms are as zesty as the red tuna ceviche at the hotel's main Estelo restaurant, which they serve with a sidekick of chilli (mains from £27). Designed by the Parisian architecture studio Atelier St Lazare, the rooms have the same sense of restraint as those in the main building, with polished concrete floors, more books and pops of colourful art. They have the same sense of quiet luxury too, courtesy of their lush bed linen and Grown Alchemist soaps and smells. But here the dazzling intensity of sea and sunlight seems to wash in with even greater force. Leave the floor-to-ceiling windows open at night and you worry you'll wake up with the waves breaking over your feet. • The best European cities for art lovers Meanwhile, there's a new chef cooking up a storm in Récif, the top-floor gastronomic restaurant (six-course menus from £126). Previously, Alexandre Baule was at L'Alpaga, a Beaumier property in Megève in the French Alps, whose restaurant won its first Michelin star in 2023. Now he's brought his love of seasonality to the coast and is playing with the way its flavours arrive at different speeds in your mouth. Never more so than with his jelly of pastis and sea water served with a jasmine emulsion, which starts salty but suddenly turns floral across your tongue. But don't set your heart on any particular dish. Thanks to his collaboration with the sustainable St Raphaël fisherman Olivier Bardoux, Baule's menus change daily. It comes as no surprise to learn that, once they get their electronic-wristband room keys, most guests at Les Roches Rouges don't step beyond the front door until it's time to settle the bill. For the most part they're design-conscious couples from London and America in their late twenties or early thirties, and many are honeymooning. But there are empty nesters sprinkled among them too, relishing their hard-won freedom. Usually, all are stretched out on sunloungers by the two pools, equipped with a cocktail and a little light holiday reading. Every now and again, however, one of them walks to the end of the hotel's jetty and dives into the sea. I don't blame them for not exploring. When you've got front-row seats like this, the Med is mesmerising. All the same, it's a crying shame because half a mile up the coast Mother Nature has her own surprise to share. Up there, at Cap Dramont, the mountains of the Massif de l'Esterel break through the coast road's cordon of villas, bars and marinas to plunge their red-rocked feet straight into the sea. I wander over on my final afternoon and as soon as I leave the main forest track, the world turns raw and wild. Overgrown footpaths weave through thickets of laurel, olive trees and pine. Deep channels of seawater sparkle invitingly between the cliffs and, occasionally, I use hands as well as feet to climb. In other words, it is just like Les Roches Rouges — a wake-up call for anyone who, like me, has ever written off the Riviera as samey and soulless. Suddenly, the only thing I don't like about it is having to Newsom was a guest of Les Roches Rouges, which has B&B doubles from £388 ( Fly to Nice Les Roches Rouges isn't the only hotel in Provence and the Côte d'Azur making a fuss of its 20th-century architecture. In Nice, the 35-room Hotel Gounod has been reborn in a shimmering, boudoir style that's the perfect match for its intricate art deco façade (B&B doubles from £138; Keep it in mind if you're visiting the Matisse Méditerranées show at the city's Matisse Museum this summer (until September 8; The exhibition includes loans from MoMA in New York and the Pompidou in Paris. It's part of Nice's Year of the Sea ( that also includes The Midnight Zone, an immersive installation that explores the deepest parts of the ocean. • More top hotels in Nice Meanwhile, inland from St Raphaël, two 19th-century properties are flying the flag for stylish B&B-keeping. Two years ago, the former coaching inn Le Gabriel put the hilltop village of Claviers on the map with its mix of zesty colours, big windows and playful decoration. Its five arty bedrooms and suites start from £190 a night B&B ( Nearby, in Draguignan, the five-suite Château Pimo opened this year with a more subdued colour scheme, but the same eye for detail as well as its own spa (B&B suites from £230; Both lie within striking distance of the spectacular Gorges du Verdon canyon. Further west, Aix-en-Provence's tight historic streets are always gorgeous and atmospheric. But this year the city is also honouring Cézanne, its most famous son, with a blockbuster exhibition at the Musée Granet (June 28 to October 12; as well as the reopening of the Jas de Bouffan, his parents' surprisingly highfalutin' home. The gardens at the recently refurbished Hôtel Le Pigonnet offer a welcome refuge from the gallery-going (B&B doubles from £233; while the town's thriving restaurant scene is strong with plenty of mid-priced menus. In the centre, Les Galinas has just been awarded one of Michelin's coveted Bib Gourmands for affordable, Provençal gastronomy that includes bourride (fish stew) (mains from £18; The newly opened O'père on the outskirts, has a growing reputation for its deeply flavoured sauces (mains from £20; • Great restaurants in Nice Finally, to the north of Aix lies a corner of Provence that's less touristy but no less delightful. The town of Carpentras is one of its stars, thanks to its sprawling Friday market — the perfect place to scoff the divine local nectarines, as soon as you've bought them. But it's also home to spectacular hiking beneath the limestone crags of the Dentelles de Montmirail, and two top-notch wine areas. Head to the villages of Gigondas and Vacqueyras for succulent, fruity reds, and to the new tasting cellar at the Domaine de Coyeux for sweet and fragrant Muscat de Beaumes de Venise ( Ten miles south of Carpentras, in the riverside town of L'Isle Sur La Sorgue, the L'Isle de Leos is a new, five-star MGallery property in a former watermill, decked out in a rich cinnamon-and-chocolate colour scheme. It opens next month with enticing introductory pricing (B&B doubles from £298;

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