From Dorito rolls to eel tempura: Mexico City's newest culinary gem

Boston Globe

15-07-2025

I admit it can be dizzying. It's like arriving in a country where you expect one type of meal and are transported to another land entirely. For example, Dorito sushi. How could I not order such a thing? It sounds like a gimmick until you take a bite, and then it isn't. The shrimp and cream cheese roll, coated with crushed Doritos and gooey shrimp topping, is a perfect balance of creamy, salty, and crunchy with lingering spice on the lips.
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According to Chavez, the inspiration for this and other rolls comes from Culiacan, a colorful town where everything is brightly painted — cars, tombstones, houses — and you'll find anything and everything in their sushi. Thus, the menu's Dorito roll, and the genre-bending Yapa roll with platanos, cream cheese, pork belly, carrot and jicama salad, flambeed bacon, and caramelized onion.
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Not all cross-cultural dishes are rolls. Crispy tostadas are topped with yellowfin tuna, avocado, and ponzu sauce, and edamame are tossed in Sriracha and garlicky sesame oil.
'We make things our own way,' said chef Chavez. 'It's not a gimmick, it's real food. The base ingredients and technique are the most important, plus a pinch of salt and heat. If it's right, you don't need to fix it.'
At Suchi in Mexico City, decorative plates sport mask-wearing Japanese super heroes.
Necee Regis
Sushi traditionalists won't be disappointed by a wide choice of familiar dishes such as hand rolls, spring rolls, tempura, fried rice, sashimi and nigiri selections, and California and spicy tuna rolls. One favorite, Himitzu maki, is a variation of a classic eel roll with eel tempura wrapped in silky avocado, topped with an eel sauce and crunchy
arare
— tiny, crunchy soy-flavored rice crackers.
Simple wood tables are enlivened with decorative plates sporting mask-wearing Japanese superheroes, and red cloth napkins embroidered with more masked heads. The vibe is casual and celebratory, not stuffy, and creatively attired patrons seemed to be more Mexican than gringo. We played a game: Is he a famous Mexican film director? Is she a doyenne of the city's fashion world? We'd never know, but it was fun to observe our fellow diners in such a festive mood.
The restaurant is located in the Roma Norte, on the border of Condesa, two neighborhoods touted for their bohemian vibes and vibrant culinary offerings. Tucked inside the Hotel Casona Norte, in a restored, 1920s mansion, Suchi is accessible from the hotel's lobby or directly from the street.
'I'm so happy to be at La Casona,' said Chavez, who has several different types of restaurants in other cities in Mexico. But his heart right now is all in Mexico City.
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'I love Mexico City. They have all the flavors of the
cocinas
of Mexico in one place. It is
the
place to be. When you are there, you are everywhere.'
Agreed.
Suchi, Durango 280, Roma Norte. Open for lunch and dinner.
Necee Regis can be reached at [e-mail]
Necee Regis can be reached at