Review: Hanu, an interactive new Korean restaurant
The man who can be credited with much of the success on the culinary front is chef Kyung Soo Moon, the restaurant's then-executive chef. But now he's turned his attention back to his roots for Hanu, a modern interpretation of Korean cuisine. Found at St Regis Gardens, it's in good company with restaurants like Leña, Aretha, Chez Wam and Tresind Studio among its neighbours.
Once inside, we're met with dark and moody interiors with intricate attention to detail. Rich dark walnut woods, striking artworks and Korean pine trees lace the traditional with more contemporary accents befitting of a glamourous new Dubai restaurant. You enter through the lounge and bar where a DJ spins enigmatic beats that are thankfully not overpowering, through to a table in the restaurant.
If you're unfamiliar with Korean BBQ, the knowledgeable team are on-hand to make recommendations, and confidently talk us through the concept and must-try dishes. The wagyu beef gyoza (Dhs68) are one such dish, piping hot parcels of Japanese A5 wagyu short rib and shiitake mushroom encased in a dough that's the perfect level of crispy and tender. Forget everything you know about vegetables and order the Korean fried cauliflower (Dhs65), coated in a spicy sauce and served with a side of yuja radish to balance the heat. The almost-too-pretty-to-eat beef tartelette (Dhs110) is another playful interpretation of classic Korean flavours, with a soft quail egg marinated in soy sauce, served on top of a tartelette of beef jongjorim, a layer of caviar giving it a Dubai elevation.
To truly get a taste of Korean BBQ, order the 'Meat Me At The Grill' (Dhs365 per person), where you'll be served four cuts of premium meat with a selection of sides, condiments and a stew. It's a generous offering – much like it would be if you dined at Chef Moon's family home – given added wow-factor with the meats cooked on the charcoal grill built into each table. Each buttery cut of meat is full of flavour and perfectly cooked, from the Australian Black Angus to the Japanese A4 Wagyu striploin.
For dessert, a beautifully presented golden pear delight (Dhs63) is a light and fresh way to end the meal. Diced Korean pear is paired with a walnut crumble and a scoop of tonka bean ice cream.
Verdict: A focus on quality cuisine and service makes this a restaurant deserving of a place on your foodie bucket list.
Hanu, St Regis Gardens, Palm Jumeirah, 6pm to 1am Sun to Weds, 6pm to 2am Thurs to Sat. Tel: (0)4 278 4844. @hanu_dubai
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