
Mamma Killa is Delhi's first Aztec members-only bar
There is a certain enigma that Mehrauli in Delhi boasts. The centre point of the neighbourhood is the towering Qutub Minar, around which exists a civilisation of fine dining restaurants, bars, and designer boutiques.
Amid this ancient-meets-modern setting, India's first Aztec bar — Mamma Killa — has opened up, inviting intrigue and curiosity for its members-only policy.
True to its name, the 35-cover space (above fine dining restaurant, Swan) channels the mysticism of the 'mother of moon' in its décor, cocktail and food. 'A story born in the 16th century — where Incan rituals collided with Asian rhythms', reads the cocktail menu.
A passion project by restaurateur Zorawar Kalra — founder of Massive Restaurants that has Farzi Café, Pa Pa Ya, and Masala Library under its ambit — Mamma Killa is nothing like Delhi has ever seen. A flight of stairs (through Swan) takes you to a 'secret space' á la speakeasies, where the vibe is laid back yet chic, elite yet inclusive, with enough privacy. 'The goal was simple. We wanted to build an exclusive space for people in Delhi who are adding value to the artistic and cultural fabric of the city. There is no membership fee but we decide who comes,' explains Zorawar.
A rigorous process drives the selection of the members, and the number currently stands at about 100. Those who are interested could send a DM to Mamma Killa's Instagram account (which is private) or fill up a form on its official website. Once all the details are received, Zorawar and his wife, Dildeep Kalra, along with senior staff, go through the applications and decide who gets to be a part of this sanctuary.
'We plan to build a panel to review these applications. It will have people across all walks of life, be it a 25-year-old startup entrepreneur, a 30-year-old fashionista, or someone influential from the food and beverage space,' he adds.
Members can only enter the 'secret space' using a physical black-and-gold membership card. They also have the advantage of bringing friends and family along, or reserving tables for others using their membership details.
Zorawar gives me a sneak peek into the invitation kit, which has a shot measure, chocolates, a scented candle and diary (besides the membership card) to welcome guests to the Mamma Killa family. Once you are a part of the coterie, a curated experience awaits you. The cocktails put together by bar manager Suvrat Mahindroo, are all about 'drinking what you eat'.
For instance, there is Pizza-ila with pesto-washed tequila, tomato and basil, which was garnished with maple charred cherry tomato. Pachamanca is another tequila drink with a marigold infusion, clarified with apricot and peach milk. It is topped with in-house chrysanthemum soda.
Two of my favourite drinks from the menu are Ceviche and Milky Way (when whisky is not even my spirit of choice). The former has a mix of tequila and mezcal for a smoky flavour while the leches de tigre (citrus based marinade) used for clarification added to its authenticity.
The Milky Way was a surprise. The velvety whisky-based cocktail, inspired by the dessert tiramisu, has shiitake mushroom and tiramisu cordial as its primary ingredients. It comes with a homemade truffle chocolate with notes of coffee, orange and truffle oil.
But the show stealer is the Guéridon Cocktail Trolley that Suvrat calls a 'reverse Omakase concept'. Guests can pick between four elixirs: Orange-Vetiver, Palo Santo-Bee Pollen, Banana-Fig, and Lotus Biscoff-Caramel and their spirit of choice, besides the glassware and garnish like tobico, house pickle or caramelised citrus.
The food menu is small but clever. It has sushi, tacos, appetisers, and pide (Turkish flatbread) to nibble on with drinks. Some standout dishes include Black Mango Maki, Tamago Maki, Tori Karage with Avocado Mash tacos, Tropical Prawn Robata and Comfort Wings sous vide in Coca Cola.
While the food, drinks and the ambiance make for Instagrammable frames, Mamma Killa has a no-photo policy that members must abide by.
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