‘Kopi lama', ‘kerabu' and ‘kampung' charm: A hidden Kelantanese breakfast haven in Bandar Mahkota Cheras
KUALA LUMPUR, June 10 – Beneath the leafy shade of mature trees, this humble breakfast spot offers Kelantanese favourites – the sweet pleasures of roti titab, the inimitable blue tint of nasi kerabu, and more.
Welcome to Baba Kafe, what I consider a most wonderful discovery hidden in a verdant corner of Bandar Mahkota Cheras.
(It's the usual story of the place we wanted to visit having an unexpected day off... which worked well in our favour as it turns out.)
Part of Baba Kafe's appeal is its back-to-nature, 'kampung' style setting.
Part of this unassuming eatery's appeal is its back-to-nature environment. Lush greenery, with both open-air and indoor seating. A kampung style escape in the heart of the city.
Built in the style of a rustic hut, the shop itself has a nostalgic charm with tables made from reclaimed wood and plenty of fans (ceiling, wall and tabletop) to ensure a breezy cool even during the midday heat.
Given that Baba Kafe is a kedai kopi, after all, the drinks to order are the usual coffee and tea. You can't go wrong with the trusty Kopi Tarik, formidably frothed and not too sweet.
Their signature Kopi Lama Baba – cold milk topped with kopi O and ice cubes – will offer a chilly respite on sweltering mornings. (The kopi lama here isn't 'old coffee' but pays homage to a popular shop in Kota Baru called Kedai Kopi Lama.)
Kopi Tarik (left) and Kopi Lama Baba (right).
Rather than old fashioned roti bakar with butter and kaya, try their Roti Titab. The word titab means 'to spread' in the Kelantanese dialect, therefore this is basically the same kopitiam toast but with the ingredients already spread on the bread, including the half-boiled egg.
Those who would like more of a protein boost (or have a juvenile sense of humour like me), the 'upgraded' version called Roti Titab Jantan is a must-order. This comes with two half-boiled eggs atop the toast instead of one – or shall we say, a pair?
The adults in the room might prefer something heartier for their breakfast, which is where Baba Kafe's winsome rice dishes enter the picture.
Roti Titab Jantan.
Everyone's favourite seems to be the Nasi Kak Wok. It's a simple dish, really: Steamed white rice; chicken curry laden with cubes of potato; a fiery, blended cili padi sauce; and some very necessary cucumber slices for a cool crunch.
You can order this with a variety of sides, including ikan keli (catfish) and daging goreng (fried beef), but the standout, I reckon, is their Nasi Kak Wok Ikan Celup Tepung. The crispy, just-fried ikan kembung or local mackerel is well worth the wait.
For those who would like more fibre in their diet, go for the Nasi Kerabu Ayam Goreng.
Nasi Kak Wok Ikan Celup Tepung.
The classic blue rice (thanks to bunga telang or butterfly pea flowers) is matched by the vibrant greens of a fresh salad and slice of lime, the pale yellow crunch of some keropok, the golden brown of deep-fried chicken, the dark nuttiness of kerisik or toasted coconut...
Colourful and flavourful, it's a whole rainbow on a plate. Beautiful and mouthwatering.
Nasi Kerabu Ayam Goreng.
Now some purists might bemoan the lack of a more traditional ulam with wild herbs such as daun kaduk whilst others might wonder why the ayam goreng is coarsely chopped rather than presented whole.
But this is nitpicking, I feel. The accompanying salad is more than satisfactory – and it is easier to source green lettuce and purple cabbage – whilst the proprietors had already warned us that the fried chicken will be cut up in cubes in their menu.
Baba Kafe promises simple, honest food and a relaxing ambience.
To each their own. For me, what is authentic is often in the spirit that a meal is presented. From gravy-soaked rice dishes to toast slathered in raunch rather than ranch, Baba Kafe promises simple, honest food and a relaxing ambience in which to enjoy it.
Baba Kafe
Jalan Putera,
Bandar Mahkota Cheras,
Cheras, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm; Mon closed
Phone: 017-290 0844
• This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
• Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
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