
Stars out for Max Mara show that offers light touch in the heat
An hour's drive north of Naples, the baroque Royal Palace of Caserta, which took nearly a century to build, gives even Versailles a run for its money. Max Mara's front row was not too shabby either — Sharon Stone and Gwyneth Paltrow were among the celebrities in attendance.
For the select number of luxury brands that can afford to stage them, cruise shows, which take place outside of the main fashion schedule and in unusual locations, are in part about muscle-flexing. Yet it is not only that.
The American actresses Joey King, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sharon Stone and Hayley Atwell were on the front row the Royal Palace of Caserta, below, which offered a breathtaking backdrop to the show
THOMAS RAZZANO/BFA.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK
MICHAEL RUNKEL/ROBERTHARDING
The resultant collections have turned into one of their most important commercial propositions, typically staying in stores longer than any other; for six months, from November to May. So Max Mara's apparent flight of fancy was, in truth, anything but.
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This is not to say that Ian Griffiths, the brand's longstanding British creative director, had not had some fun. His inspiration, he said before the show, was the mid-century Italian actress Silvana Mangano, most notably her memorable appearance in Bitter Rice, dressed for the Italian paddy field in shorts and a hat. 'It was women like her that gave the world the idea of what Italian style was,' he said. The film came out in 1949, two years before Max Mara was founded.
The opening look was a newfangled take on the three-piece suit — jacket, shorts and bustier top — worn with a trilby and leather waders, all of it rendered in Max Mara's signature camel. Good luck in the paddy field wearing that.
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The tailoring throughout the show had been 'lightened', Griffiths said, via his collaboration with the Neapolitan tailor Vincenzo Cuomo, a man who knows how to make a suit that works in 32C.
The palette was still typically Max Mara
ALENA ZAKIROVA/GETTY IMAGES
ALENA ZAKIROVA/GETTY IMAGES
ALENA ZAKIROVA/GETTY IMAGES
A second local hook-up was with the tie maker E Marinella. Prints from its archive, also from 1951, had been retooled over playsuits and full skirts.
Max Mara's stock in trade is coats, which might seem a tricky task in southern Italy in June. But a fluffy number in the same pink found in Neapolitan ice cream sent a shiver down the spine.
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Strozzi had asked when we'd popped in post-oil tasting). He's inscrutable: longish hair bobbed, Tuscan nose, eyes boring into my soul, while Domenico stares from above, lip imperceptibly curled. This is our house, they seem to whisper. And it always will be, I want to reply — but I'm delighted that Cecchi has brought you back to life. This article contains affiliate links that will earn us revenue Julia Buckley was a guest of Dimora Ghirlandaio, which has B&B doubles from £520 or villas from £781 ( The chapel can be viewed on request. Fly to Florence