Soaring melanoma rates scared me out of tanning. Here's how I stay stylish in the sun

Telegraph

2 days ago

Sunbathing. That sweaty, now dirty sport, long associated with wealth, leisure and languid Mediterranean summers. I vividly remember my sister and I soaking our hair in lemon and buttering our limbs and faces in baby oil, then positioning ourselves like seasoned potatoes on the lawn.
There was scant regard for sun safety on holiday, even as a child, where we'd routinely singe faces by the pool and as a teen, anchor there for hours on end, with the sole goal of discovering a tan line before supper.
So crucial was a sun-kissed glow to our social cred that I once had to rescue a friend who'd fainted in a sun bed pod (we'd fibbed about our age in the tanning shop and risked dehydration in feverish pursuit of that golden hue).
Summer wardrobes reflected this – we'd go bare-legged and bare-shouldered to maximise our tans, and flaunt our hours on the sun lounger thus far. Wide-brimmed sun-hats were too shady for the last two decades of dedicated sun-bathers – and baseball caps had yet to spill over from tennis courts or golf courses. Linen dresses were short and often sleeveless – and stringy, dental floss bikinis were designed to expose as much flesh as possible, resting precariously above pubic bones and just below the nipple.
Then came the gradual but seismic shift.
The dangers of too much sun exposure were laid bare in the 2010s, fuelled by skin cancer statistics (malignant melanoma quadrupling for Britons from 1980) and the beauty industry casting ultraviolet radiation as the ultimate ageing villain, etching wrinkles into skin prematurely with added pigmentation issues.
You'd be a maverick, a fool, 15 years ago, to forego a poolside sizzle for a long sarong and wide-brimmed hat. But the factor-50 sunscreen anxiety, perma-hat and long-sleeved kaftan antics on a recent holiday confirmed this shift. In 2025, sun-worshipping elicits the same level of disdain as smoking outside a New York restaurant or nursing a morning rosé on a commuter train.
In fact, the entire holiday formula, that once rested primarily on sunbathing schedules, has been turned on its head – shade and skin health now call the shots.
That's not to say you can't wallow in the mottled shallows under the midday sun, or tuck into a Dolce Vita al fresco lunch. It's all there for the taking, just with thick SPF, a wide-brimmed hat and Anne Hathaway-level dedication to full limb sun protection (see her toddler-rash-vest-inspired swim set in which she was recently pictured in Italy). Sunburn is not only considered irresponsible now but the very nadir of our post-Tango'd society.
Designers have observed this cultural pendulum swing too, citing demand for breathable fabrics that protect the skin. 'There's definitely a move towards pieces that cover more while still feeling light,' says Wiggy Kit founder, Wiggy Hindmarch.
'Women are investing in timeless, well-made pieces that offer coverage while still feeling airy and elegant – and pieces that can be thrown over a swimsuit as easily as they can be worn into town for lunch.'
Sales of linen in particular have been boosted by the anti-UV movement.
'We're seeing a quiet move towards pieces that feel breezy and unrestrictive, while still offering a sense of refinement,' says Marianne McDonald, creative director of Citizens of Humanity. 'Our Brynn linen trousers can transition seamlessly from poolside lounging to lunch.'
Linen specialist Kindred of Ireland's founder, Amy Anderson, echoes this: 'We've seen a growing demand for long-sleeved linen shirts and easy, breathable dresses that offer both elegance and sun protection,' she says.
Indeed, I now wear Kindred's striped linen over swimwear in summer, easily stripped off for a dip in the sea. It's a stylish, breezy alternative to sticky sun cream, as are long-sleeved rash vests (Hunza G has a front-zip one, as has Free People, both made from UV-protective technical material).
Meanwhile, business is booming for UPF straw hat brands such as Australian brands Helen Kaminski and Lorna Murray. Dermatologists swear by Eric Javits UPF 50 hats, and sunglasses have more of a year-round presence, where maximum UV protection and style must work in tandem.
I see my friends dressing for sunny days in floaty, sleeved dresses from Doen, gingham nighties by If Only If, and accessorising with costume jewellery by YSSO and So-Le Studio. Long skirts have had a comeback (M&S currently has a knockout denim offering) which pair like fine wine with summery blouses from Smock London, Sezane and Herd.
I'm also loving the sarong revival spearheaded by brands such as Alvica and Pucci, which tastemakers are styling as low-slung belts over dresses or trousers, as skirts paired with T-shirts, or flung over bare shoulders. My favourite look is the latter, to wake up a plain linen dress.
We may be a fair few steps away from Anne Hathaway's full-coverage summer commitment, but there's no denying that the seared skin tanning age (and accompanying 'resort wear') has run its course. I for one am thrilled to be stepping into the era of rash vests, headwear and long-sleeved linen, layered with statement jewellery and laced with a smug disregard for the weather.
The new summer wardrobe