Paradise found: these unspoilt islands off the Irish coast offer otherworldly charm

Times

a day ago

Go for a taste of cinematic sci-fi
These pinnacles of rock make for an adventurous day trip with a hit of history and the austerity of the long-abandoned monastic settlement from the 6th century AD. The fact that it posed as the backdrop for the iconic end scene in Star Wars: The Force Awakens might persuade the teens to go with you, too. The one-hour-plus boat journey can be a little hairy, but you're likely to spot dolphins swimming alongside your boat and it's well worth the trip and the steep climb to the top to marvel at the dramatic scenery, the colony of puffins that breed there, the monastic huts and to sit in the same spot as Luke Skywalker.
Go to stretch the legs
Getting to the 6.5 km long by 1.5 kmwide island is an adventure in itself as you traverse Dursey Sound on Ireland's only cable car, swaying above the rolling Atlantic. You may even be sharing with some sheep since they make up most of the inhabitants on this tiny island, along with colonies of seabirds. Despite its compact size it offers great landscapes and trails for walkers, who come to ramble the Beara Way walking trail. With no shops or restaurants, you'll need to bring supplies, and you're encouraged to embrace the slower pace of life: gentle rambling, birdwatching and those spectacular views of the Beara peninsula.
Go for rugged adventuring
Ireland's west coast is so breathtaking, it's worth cramming in more than one island and you'll be well served with the Aran Islands. The three windswept isles — Inishmore, Inishmaan and Inisheer — off the Galway coast are as rugged as they come and are easily accessible thanks to the rapid ferry service that zips between them. The islands are small, perfect for family exploring and can be navigated by bikes, which can be hired locally. Inishmore, one of the locations for the Oscar-winning The Banshees of Inisherin, is as stunning off screen as on. Inishmaan, while small, packs a mighty punch with the Inis Meain suites — a clutch of luxury suites overlooking the Atlantic, while the even smaller Inisheer is a walker's paradise. Pack a picnic and hit the beaches, cycle or climb the 2,000-year-old ruins of Dun Aengus fort on Inishmore.
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Go for a slow, sustainable weekend
There's a sense of the edge of the world about the weather-beaten and wild Cape Clear, Ireland's southernmost inhabited island, perhaps because it was the last slice of home seen by thousands of Irish emigrants as they sailed to America. And not much has changed since the 19th century, as it continues its 'slow tourism' spirit. Milk the goats and sample the homemade ice cream at Cleire Goats visitor farm, bag yourself some local pottery at the harbour craft shop or sample some local gin at the Cape Clear Distillery. A short walk around the harbour will bring you to an enclosed bay where you can kayak through sea arches, and if you're on the island in September you can settle in for some grand tales at the Storytelling Festival.
Go for the headspace
This visit requires some planning if you're to make it out and back before the tide creeps in, but the reward for making it is a wild and free experience on an island measuring just 2.25km by 1km. It won't take you long to get around, but it makes for a nice summer day trip. Head to Carty's Strand at the back of the island, where you can swim, flake out on the sand for the day or spend it surfing (it's known for its great rollers), before heading to the one and only pub, Michael J Ward's, open from May to September. The RNLI encourages people to text Coney to 51155 to find out the safe crossing times for that day, but you could always bring a tent and try some wild camping — there are worse places to be stranded.
Go for sealife spotting
You may have to jostle your way through the hundreds of seals and dolphins fringing the island as the ferry pulls into the pier on Sherkin. It's not hard to see the appeal. For such a small island (4.8km long) it still delivers enough to keep you interested and active for a day trip: sandy beaches, walking trails, a Franciscan friary, a lighthouse and the Jolly Roger pub for a post-walk pint. There's not much in the way of food offerings here, so pack some snacks and enjoy the peace and quiet — the pace is slow and eminently chilled and life is simple.
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Go for some deep-sea diving
You can escape the bustle of the mainland at Ireland's most remote inhabited island, with its population of just 141 people. Wild in terms of its accessibility, lore and legend, Tory has a long, fascinating history that begins in prehistoric times with evidence of early settlements and ancient artefacts discovered there and the ruins of St Colmcille's 6th-century monastery. And it continues to this day with a Gaeltacht community who still consider themselves to be 'foreigners' on the mainland and who will regale you with stories, music and traditions. There's plenty here to keep you active, but it's probably best known as being a diver's dream with vertical cliff walls, crystal-clear rocky bottom, and caverns to explore.
Go for the gardens
If you didn't get to Italy but fancy a slice of the Italian outdoors, you can take the short hop from Glengarriff to Garnish Island in Bantry Bay. Created by the architect Annan Bryce and the garden designer Harold Peto 110 years ago, the luscious Italianate gardens are an enchanting mix of manicured and wild landscapes, designed to bring pleasure to visitors throughout the year and teeming with exotic species, vivid rhododendrons and azaleas, climbing plants and perennials. A sunken ornate pool, a Grecian temple and an Italian tea house complete the Mediterranean vibe. Look out for the colony of seals lazing on the rocks as you board the boat for home.
Go for remote wilderness
There's something appealing about exploring a remote island that few people have seen before, and the spectacularly rugged Clare Island in Clew Bay is as peripheral as it comes, but not so much that you might be twiddling your thumbs. You can spend your days walking, swimming, camping, cycling or hiking Knockmore Mountain. There's plenty of heritage here too, it being the home of the pirate queen Grace O'Malley, who ruled over the western seaboard from her now ruined castle and is said to be buried in the Cistercian abbey. A handful of accommodation options, including Clare Island lighthouse, Bayview House and a glut of B&Bs, means you can overnight and grab breakfast, lunch and dinner at the Clare Island Oven, which serves the gamut of tasty goods from breakfast focaccia to pizza.
Go for the birdwatching
The Saltees, off the Wexford coast, are home to Ireland's most famous bird sanctuary, and the Neale family, who grant permission to day-trippers to visit the otherwise uninhabited island. If you get there between April and July you'll catch the 2,000 puffins that live on the island, as well as lolloping seals and freewheeling seabirds, including gannets, razorbills and kittiwakes. The island is also known as the Graveyard of a Thousand Ships thanks to the myriad vessels that sank off its coast. Pack a picnic and take a ramble with your binoculars. You might even spot Prince Michael Neale's former throne, which he erected to himself as the 'king' of the Saltees.