In the Faroe Islands, Nature Rewards Patience

Condé Nast Traveler

2 days ago

As the Faroes become increasingly popular with international travelers—a trickle of visitors has turned into more of a cascade in recent years, particularly since 2023—there is a greater need for creatively expanding infrastructure, while prioritizing the needs and lifestyle of locals. The Faroese are essentially asking themselves: How can we invite visitors into the home we love, without losing what we love about it?
I hoped to find out. In April, my husband and I flew into the airport on Vágar, the third-largest island, with a plan to drive to the Northern Isles before slowly making our way back through Eysturoy and Streymoy. It was a route that would allow us to also travel through those undersea tunnels, while also being conscious of the number of pricey tolls we'd rack up from using them. We hoped to also tap into the Faroese rhythm of daily life. What would it mean to take cues from the people who know these wild landscapes best?
On our first day, we beelined for the Visit North tourism office in Klaksvík, a small city of brightly colored houses on a spit of land between the open ocean and a sheltered bay of fishing boats. Reni Heimustovu, who staffs the front desk, smiled when we asked about hiking that day. 'Last time someone wanted to go hiking in weather like this, we told them, 'Choose life!'' she laughed knowingly. Outside, the long grass was blown flat on the surrounding mountains.
And so we learned our first lessons of traveling in the Faroes: One must always be adaptable.
We climbed back into the car, and ditched the hike, instead driving along a muddy road toward Klakkur Viewpoint, below which the sea yawned expansively. In scenic, rural parts of the islands, which describes just about everywhere in the Faroes, a source of tension with rising tourist numbers has come from the fact that visitors aren't always prepared for sheep on the road. There are so many of the animals here, that in 2016, locals used their ovine population to map areas not yet canvassed by Google Maps' cars; famously, the Faroes have more sheep than people, and their wavy wool provides a living for many locals. New signage on roads like these gently reminds visitors which grazing lands are off limits to hiking and sightseeing: the sheep have the right of way.