A Truly Stellar Restaurant

Forbes

4 hours ago

Whole Grilled Branzino, Brasero, Chicago
Seamless is a word that I don't often use, as to me this means that everything flows together - and I don't find too many examples. Now I could be referring to a movie, a novel, a song or a dozen other things, including restaurants, so imagine how rarely I describe a restaurant as seamless. Well, Brasero in Chicago's West Town neighborhood is just that - it is seamless.
Opened in 2025, Brasero is somewhat of a followup restaurant to wildly successful El Che Steakhouse & Bar at 845 W. Washington in Chicago's West Loop. The common theme at both is Executive Chef and Owner John Manion, who was clearly inspired by the time he spent as an eight-year old living in Sao Paolo, Brazil, where live-fire cooking was a specialty.
At Brasero, Manion carries on the tradition of wood-fired Latin cooking. What he can do with beef, pork and seafood with a perfect mix of spices and herbs such as scallions and cilantro along with Green Onion Salsa, Horseradish Aioli and Coconut Broth, just to name a few ingredients - there are a lot more - is nothing short of amazing.A selection of entrées at Brasero, Chicago
There is a nice variety of foodstuffs here, from Shrimp and Crab Ceviche to a Coal-Roasted Sweet Potato to Waygu Beef Tartare and Brazilian Fried Chicken; each is cooked perfectly and offers outstanding complexity; Brasero is one of those places where you can recommend everything. To start, my dining companion enjoyed the Grilled Prawns with green onion salsa and Brazilian Chile crisp; here is an opener that gets you set for the flavors and identity at Brasero. I went for the Grilled Asparagus with Herbed Yogurt, Pea Tendrils and Black Lime and Pistachio Crumble. As asparagus is my favorite vegetable, I eat it often, but I've never had as unusual a preparation as this; the crunchiness of this dish lifted it out of the ordinary.
The Braised Pork Shank - served as a large portion, thank you - with Feijoada risotto and collard greens was superb; this is clearly one of the signature dishes at Brasero; by the way, I took home what I couldn't finish; it was great after three days!
Then there is the Grilled Branzino, beautifully prepared (see top photo) with Spring Onion Green Sauce, Pickled Shallots and Herb Salad. Meaty, with a distinctive spice, this is as singular a preparation of Branzino I've had anywhere - in Chicago or in Italy. If you love Branzino - who doesn't? - you must try this!Passionfruit semifreddo
For dessert, try the Passionfruit Semifreddo, which is slightly decadent (and a treat for the eyes), but 100% tantalizing and delicious. This turns the concept of semifreddo on its head.
I have to give a special shoutout to wine director Alex Cuper for his creative and well-thought out wine program. He's done his homework here, with selections by the glass and bottle from multiple South American countries; the ones you expect such as Chile and Argentina, as well as the ones most diners don't know much about such as Brazil and Uruguay. I enjoyed a glass of Pedro Ximenz from Chile's Limari Valley, a medium-full dry white with a rich fruitiness and an appealing minerality in the finish - here is an ideal white wine for this cuisine. I also enjoyed an outstanding single vineyard Carignan from Ana Maria Cumsille from the Itata Valley in southern Chile; I have visited wine regions in Chile on a few occasions, but was not familiar at all with this area. Cuper came over and talked with me about the wine and this producer, whose wines he clearly loves (he also has two of her other wines on the list). How nice to learn about artisan producers from South America, especially when the wine is this special; to my tastes, this is world-class quality. Cuper needs to be congratulated for his work; he does split his time between Brasero and El Che, so hopefully he'll be at Brasero when you dine there; he's a great resource for any wine lover, beginner or veteran.
The handsome front bar at Brasero
The restaurant itself is very good looking, as the design goes for a slightly conservative look, especially with the beautiful bar. Service is very good; our well-versed waiter saw to our needs without being aggressive; there is a nice mix of music, and the acoustics have been well thought out, so conversation from other tables is not too loud.
The combination of all these things added up to a very memorable dining experience. Brasero is clearly one of the most innovative, exciting, and yes, finest restaurants in Chicago. Very Highly Recommended
Brasero
1709 W. Chicago Avenue, Chicago