I tried posh £21 fish and chips that David Beckham ordered – 3 words sum it up

Daily Record

18 hours ago

I was dispatched to see if a luxury order of fish and chips was worth the hefty price tag
What's the most you'd be willing to fork out for fish and chips? For me, it's not about the money but the time spent journeying to the east coast where two chip shops serve up fare so delightful it's downright soul-stirring.
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In St Andrews, Tailend and Cromar are where you'll find succulent haddock in a batter that's been fried to a masterful standard I've not seen elsewhere - an astonishingly light, supremely crunchy coating with frilly, jagged edges that audibly snap into fragments.
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This culinary masterpiece is nestled atop a pile of chips that aren't too chunky, boasting a crispness, fluffiness, and creaminess that could sway even a staunch advocate of skinny fries like myself.
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These chippies set the bar by which I judge all other fish and chips. Having once been a local, I now stay in Glasgow, regrettably a 90-minute drive from chippy heaven. However, I've recently been given the mission to determine whether a posh serving of fish and chips justifies its price tag, reports the Express.
Inspired by a review of £18 fish and chips, my quest led me to Crabshakk, the fashionable seafood eatery, which opened its doors in Finnieston well before it became the Glasgow's foodie epicentre.
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The restaurant has drawn in celebrities like David Beckham and Sam Heughan. Although the Outlander star kept mum about his meal, Becks excitedly shared his dining experience on Instagram, praising the scallops "cooked to perfection", rollmops reminiscent of his grandmother's, and, of course, the fish and chips.
Their latest venture, Crabshakk Botanics off Byres Road, exudes sleek and chic with industrial black fittings, trailing greenery, timber-clad walls and floor-to-ceiling windows — an ambience my fellow diner described as "very New York". We agree it's the type of swishy restaurant to bring friends visiting from out of town.
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When I'm off on a weekday, as someone with inflexible working hours, I like to wonder what other people who are out and about do for a living.
I don't have to think too hard – at noon on a Wednesday, the clientele at this upmarket seafood restaurant consists of three tables populated by well-groomed, silver-haired guests. Before a father and daughter arrive, we are the youngest diners by decades - a journalist enjoying a day off in lieu with a friend on the backshift.
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One look at the menu and you know it's for seafood lovers. Lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine, squid, Arbroath smokies — whatever you fancy, they've got it. Non-seafood mains are few, featuring one meat option (steak frites) and four vegan dishes.
My companion opts for the complimentary fizzy water, whilst despite being off duty, my afternoon plans rule out alcohol. I spring for the Spicy Rita (£8), a coral mocktail blending citrus, sweetness and savoury elements that pleasantly evoked tomato flavours. Rather than the traditional salted rim, black Himalayan salt adorns one edge of the glass, not unlike a sandy bum on the beach.
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The service here is courteous and prompt. It's a quiet lunch service and our hefty plates of fried seafood and chips soon arrive.
So, my verdict on £21 fish and chips — not worth it. Giving credit where it's due, it's a good meal overall and they certainly don't scrimp on portion size. The chips are creamy and delicious, but it's the fish that falls flat.
While I wasn't anticipating it to be the best I've ever had, the fried coating is thicker, darker and oilier than it should be. A look at TripAdvisor reviews reveals I'm not alone in this observation. The creamy tartare sauce is good but one glaring omission are peas, mushy or otherwise.
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Meanwhile, my friend happily tucks into her breaded monkfish cheeks accompanied by skinny fries, salad and a tangy and moreish housemade ketchup (£27). To share, we can't pass on the tomato and watermelon salad with salsa verde (£9) garnished with what appear to be edible succulent leaves that provide pops of salty juiciness.
The restaurant didn't invite me for a review nor were they aware I was conducting one. Having footed the bill, I winced at the cost but I'm not overly put out.
I'm not against the idea of posh fish and chips. But I'd suggest holding off on the craving until you can make your way to the East Neuk of Fife.