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Axios
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Axios
Beretta reopens in the Mission with retro Italian charm
Beretta reopened its original location in the Mission this week with a revamped menu and retro-futuristic look. State of play: After 17 years on Valencia, the neighborhood staple from restaurateur Adriano Paganini resurfaced after a six-week remodel with a menu showcasing traditional Italian dishes and signature cocktails from its early days, when it was a service industry magnet. For years, it was the Mission haven where industry folks wound down — or kept the night going — thanks to its lively atmosphere, late-night bites and endless rounds of "cheekies," miniature complimentary shots (often mezcal) shared with peers in the city's bar scene. The vibe: The refreshed space pays homage to the Italian mod era with sweeping furnishings that include a red marble bar, spherical pendant lights, burnt orange leather stools and a geometric mural with warm, golden tones. The restaurant formerly had a dark and sultry interior that combined rich wooden accents with industrial lighting and Victorian flourishes. Dig in: The menu was restored with dishes crafted by the late Ruggero Gadaldi, Beretta's original chef and partner. Those include an array of stuzzichini (Italian small bites) such as the eggplant caponatina agrodolce with burrata ($11) and saffron risotto with ossobuco ($28). Pizzas will also be a mainstay, with classics like the margherita ($18) and the new mortadella with pistachio ($25). Best sips: The cocktail program includes oldies like the Acadian with rye, sloe gin and honey ($14) and new drinks such as the Mojave Road Trip with vodka, pineapple and ancho verde ($14). Wine, nonalcoholic options and an extensive selection of spirits are also available. My thought bubble: The new space feels nostalgic — part ambiance, part memory of sitting at the bar with my coworkers after a late shift bantering over mezcal negronis and crab arancini. Some professions just understand each other. Hospitality and journalism might be two of them.
Eater
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- Eater
Beretta Fires Back With a New Mod Look After 17 Years in the Mission
is an award-winning food writer living and eating in San Francisco. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Bon Appétit, the New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, Eater SF, and Edible SF. The original Beretta on Valencia Street has officially reopened as of Sunday, August 3, revealing a new mod look with the same strong cocktails and pizza. After 17 years worth of stirring the risotto, some adventures in pandemic delivery, and all of the Valencia bike lane rigamarole, it was definitely due for a refresh. The team shut down for six weeks worth of deep renovations, and are now promising a refreshed Beretta. 'To reassure the people who love Beretta, it's not like we're not scratching everything and starting from new,' promises Adriano Paganini of the Back of the House group. 'It's just a version that's being polished up. In some ways, it's going back to what made Beretta special to start with.' Previously Beretta leaned into dark wood and leather, industrial light fixtures, and a few Victorian flourishes, like black floral wallpaper and a bird perched in the curled cursive logo (of the same era as Portlandia's 'Put a Bird On It'). Now designer Nathan Reed is reimagining the space in Italian retro-modern, loosely channeling a mod aesthetic from the '60s. That looks like new wine — red marble, twisted wire light fixtures, sleek molded chairs, and a couple of abstract murals in black and gold. They repainted the exterior in warm gold and toned up the interiors with mahogany and cherry hues. The interior of Beretta. Michelle Min In its early days, Beretta proved a smash success by leading with strong cocktails at recession prices. Even in the depths of the downturn, you could squeeze in at the bar, order a bourbon or rye drink for $9, and feast on fava bruschette. They're bringing back the Beretta classics originally developed by star bartender Thad Vogler, including the Acadian (rye, sloe gin, absinthe, honey, lemon) and Dolores Park Swizzle (white rum, absinthe, lime, maraschino). Beverage director Caterina Mirabelli's new-school options — a pretty pink Dust Till Dawn (mezcal, prickly pear, calamansi, ginger) and spicy Mojave Road Trip (vodka, pineapple, ancho verde, basil), for example — join those throwbacks. Chef Fredy Lopez has been in this kitchen since before the beginning — he worked at the Last Supper Club before it became Beretta, and he now oversees the menus at both Beretta and Delarosa. After several years of dealing with delivery options, Paganini is especially excited to flip back to bar snacks worth sitting down for. Expect a fun selection of stuzzichini and antipasti, from bite-size caponatina agrodolce (sweet and sour eggplant) and zucchini scapece (fried zucchini with mint and vinegar), to small plates of carpaccio di polpo (octopus carpaccio) and fritto misto (fried squid, prawns, fennel, and peppers). A cocktail at Beretta. Michelle Min The Roman-esque pizza still hits that slightly thinner and crispier crust, and seasonal toppings will spin as often as always, like a new white pie piled with stracchino, mortadella, and pistachios. Beretta only introduced pasta in the last few years, and there will be agnolotti pinched around roast chicken and marsala mushrooms, and an inky new linguine nere tossed with prawns and 'nduja. It's always had a reputation for risotto, however, so don't miss those comforting dishes rich with beef ossobuco and earthy porcini. Beretta originally opened on Valencia Street in 2008 on a foundation of cocktails and pizza. For over a decade, the bar stayed open every day of the week until 2 a.m., attracting an industry crowd and vibing into the night. It won't be open that late going forward. 'The business isn't there anymore, unfortunately,' Paganini says. 'I wish it was.' But like the vast majority of his restaurants, it will still be open on Mondays, for any cooks who could use a swizzle on their day off. A dish at Beretta. Back of the House group was established in 2009, a year after Beretta's debut, and now the company operates 42 restaurants and counting. The current lineup includes Italian trattorias Corzetti and Tailor's Son, Latin hotspots Lolinda and Cubita (formerly El Techo), colorful vegan fare from Wildseed, and countless burgers from Super Duper and fried chicken sandwiches from the Bird. A second location of Beretta started as a pop-up on Divisadero Street in 2020, then wound up sticking around; no changes to that location for now. Before he was a burger maestro of the Bay Area, Paganini grew up as the son of a tailor in Milan, rose through the ranks as a chef in London, and became a restaurateur in San Francisco, when he moved here for love in the '90s. His first restaurant was Cafe Adriano, followed by Pasta Pomodoro, which grew to 40 locations at one point, but all had closed by 2016. When Paganini and his partners took another shot on Beretta, he says they poured everything they had left back into that one restaurant. 'It could have been the end of our restaurant careers. So we were very lucky that this restaurant worked, and worked amazingly well.' Beretta is known for its pizza. Michelle Min So Beretta has always been a comeback story, and it's exciting to see Paganini take a break from opening new restaurants, to swing back and polish up his Cal-Italian classic. He personally ate at the bar every week, and grew close with chef and partner Ruggero Gadaldi, who died a few years ago. 'Beretta has always had an important spot in my heart,' Paganini says. 'I think of it very fondly, because of that, and because it was the first restaurant of our comeback.'
Axios
25-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Axios
Cubita brings the flavors of Havana to the Mission
Cubita in the Mission is bringing new life to one of the city's most-loved rooftop spots. Dig in: The recently opened Cuban restaurant in the former El Techo space serves flavorful Caribbean dishes and craft cocktails in a lively, open-air setting. The big picture: Cubita is the newest concept from owner and Back of the House restaurant group founder Adriano Paganini, whose string of restaurants across the city includes the Argentinian steakhouse Lolinda and neighborhood favorites like Beretta, Flores, A Mano and Delarosa. What they're saying:"I like creating concepts of places that I have been or the places that I've been dreaming to go," Paganini, who has yet to travel to Cuba, told Axios. "I'm trying to capture the spirit of Cuba and make it a fun place." The vibe: The bar feels nostalgic and homey, drenched in tropical accents, with vibrant murals, checkerboard floors, pink and teal colors, a hanging display of Gondolero hats, and photos of Cuba in the 1950s. On a clear day, guests can catch views of the city skyline while sipping drinks. It's a great spot for large gatherings, date night, or having a quick bite and drink before catching a movie at The Alamo next door. Best bites: The "fritanga" platter is a must for those wanting to try many appetizers on the menu. It includes crispy fried plantains known as "tostones," "maduros" or sweet plantains, a citrusy chayote salad, refried beans, and "yuca rellena"— picadillo -stuffed fritters resembling what Puerto Ricans call " alcapurrias." The whole fried rockfish ($48), a splurgy option for two, features various fixings, including a zesty side salad, "tostones" and " arroz congrí," a Cuban rice-and-beans classic. Sips to savor: The beverage program includes signature drinks, classic rum cocktails, punch bowls and nonalcoholic options. House-made cocktails include the ZunZun, ($18) a clarified piña colada with coconut water, and the house Carajillo ($15), a spiced coffee drink spiked with dark rum and mezcal. Pro tip: Stay for dessert and order the " majarete" ($11) if you're craving something Caribbean staple is a creamy corn pudding with a silky texture. If you go: Open daily at 2516 Mission St. Hours vary.
San Francisco Chronicle
21-05-2025
- Business
- San Francisco Chronicle
Hit S.F. rooftop reborn with colorful new bar
One of San Francisco's few and most popular rooftop destinations will soon be reborn as a Cuban bar and restaurant. Cubita will open June 6 at 2516 Mission St., formerly the home of El Techo, an oft-packed Mission District rooftop bar with sweeping views of the city. It's the latest project from Back of the House, a Bay Area restaurant group that ran El Techo as well as Argentinian steakhouse Lolinda on the building's ground floor and popular spots Super Duper Burger, Flores and Beretta. Owner Adriano Paganini has wanted to open a Cuban spot for years. Recently, it hit him: He could convert the 12-year-old El Techo, which despite its intended direction as a Latin American complement to the downstairs Lolinda turned into a Mexican bar where people ate tacos and, he said, 'were drinking margaritas by the gallon.' Paganini has never been to Cuba, but he hopes to channel the country's food, music and allure. Cubita will be a bar first, with cocktails like the Havana Heat with dark rum, passionfruit, lemon, maraschino liqueur and a high-proof rum flame; or a spin on a Carajillo with dark rum, mezcal, Licor 43 and spiced coffee. There will be daiquiris and mojitos, plus shareable punch bowls. The bar will make its own cola from scratch for the Cuba Libre, an iconic rum and Coke cocktail. Customers will be able to snack or put together a full meal from the menu. Expect dishes like empanadas stuffed with ropa vieja, stewed beef; tostones and grilled chicken wings marinated in citrusy mojo. Sandwiches will come in the form of a Cubano with house-made lechon and a hamburguesa with a chorizo-beef patty and grilled onions. There are two large entrees: a fried, whole rock cod for two with arroz congri, tostones and tomato salad; and lechon asado, or roasted pork shoulder marinated in green mojo, served with sides. The open-air Cubita will be a colorful, vibrant space, with checkerboard floors, tropical pink accents and murals. The owners hope the vibe and prices will feel approachable. Almost the entire menu is under $20, except for the entrees. 'It's more glamorous than El Techo but at the same time … somewhat affordable. San Francisco needs more places like this,' Paganini said. Back of the House partnered with CubaCaribe, a San Francisco nonprofit whose mission is to preserve Cuban culture, and hopes it will be able to provide music and events at the bar. The nonprofit also gave feedback on the menu. Cubita. Opening June 6. Monday-Thursday, 4-10 p.m.; Friday, 4 p.m.-midnight; Saturday, 11 a.m.-midnight; Sunday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. 2516 Mission St., San Francisco.
