Beretta reopens in the Mission with retro Italian charm
State of play: After 17 years on Valencia, the neighborhood staple from restaurateur Adriano Paganini resurfaced after a six-week remodel with a menu showcasing traditional Italian dishes and signature cocktails from its early days, when it was a service industry magnet.
For years, it was the Mission haven where industry folks wound down — or kept the night going — thanks to its lively atmosphere, late-night bites and endless rounds of "cheekies," miniature complimentary shots (often mezcal) shared with peers in the city's bar scene.
The vibe: The refreshed space pays homage to the Italian mod era with sweeping furnishings that include a red marble bar, spherical pendant lights, burnt orange leather stools and a geometric mural with warm, golden tones.
The restaurant formerly had a dark and sultry interior that combined rich wooden accents with industrial lighting and Victorian flourishes.
Dig in: The menu was restored with dishes crafted by the late Ruggero Gadaldi, Beretta's original chef and partner.
Those include an array of stuzzichini (Italian small bites) such as the eggplant caponatina agrodolce with burrata ($11) and saffron risotto with ossobuco ($28).
Pizzas will also be a mainstay, with classics like the margherita ($18) and the new mortadella with pistachio ($25).
Best sips: The cocktail program includes oldies like the Acadian with rye, sloe gin and honey ($14) and new drinks such as the Mojave Road Trip with vodka, pineapple and ancho verde ($14).
Wine, nonalcoholic options and an extensive selection of spirits are also available.
My thought bubble: The new space feels nostalgic — part ambiance, part memory of sitting at the bar with my coworkers after a late shift bantering over mezcal negronis and crab arancini. Some professions just understand each other. Hospitality and journalism might be two of them.
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