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Forbes
22-07-2025
- Forbes
Napa Is The Best Wine Country Trip You Can Take Without A Car
Napa Valley is the best-known wine country destination for good reason Napa is not the place to test your tolerance. Or your relationship. Or your ability to reverse park a rental SUV after two glasses of Zin. Yet, year after year, people arrive with an inevitably doomed plan: that is, forcing someone to drive. They alternate pours. They sip and spit. Or worse, they abstain entirely. This guide is for the non-martyrs; the ones who understand that wine tastings aren't meant to be rationed, that driving post-Cabernet is lunacy, and that modern Napa has finally evolved into the car-free, carefree destination it always should have been. Think wine trains, walkable towns, and a new wave of tasting rooms that make you want to linger, rather than tick boxes. Start with the Wine Train The Napa Valley Wine Train has been around since the '80s and, yes, it can feel a little like a moving photo opp, but it's also hands-down the most enjoyable, efficient way to drink your way through the valley without regret. If you're doing the flagship Legacy Tour (and you should), it runs from 10:30am to around 4:30pm and includes breakfast, on-board tastings, two winery visits, lunch, and a steady stream of wine that starts early and doesn't ask you to spit. By the time you reach Charles Krug—your first stop—I can almost guarantee you'll be proud of the decision. The wineries are the best of the best, too. Charles Krug is the oldest in Napa (est. 1861), and the barrel rooms smell like something your faovurite sommelier dreams about. Their 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is as good as it gets, and it's also the farthest winery on the train's circular route—therefore impossible to reach efficiently without a car—which makes the train not only a fun excuse, but functional one. Next up: V. Sattui, a more low-key affair with a market-style buzz. While most people come for the picnic vibes (because, silly sausages, they're driving), the sleeper hit is their Madeira—shockingly good, even if dessert wine usually gives you flashbacks to your nan's dusty Christmas bottle. It normally does for me and I nearly asked for a second tasting. Back on board, there's a three-course lunch served with startling finesse for a train kitchen. It's social without being sloppy; less 'party bus,' more 'cool table at a wedding,' and a guarantee you'll be in no condition to operation machinery by the time you roll back into downtown Napa. Just as you planned. Napa Valley Wine Train Don't stay in Downtown Napa With that said, I wouldn't recommend staying in downtown Napa if you're keen to keep things car-free. It's fine, if fine is what you're after, but is much more to discover outside of its many tourist traps. If you want to experience Napa at its most walkable, photogenic, and idyllic, stay in Yountville. And if you're not already using Blacklane, this is your sign. Their pre-booked chauffeurs are the antidote to flaky ride shares (particularly helpful after a day getting sozzled on said train), and and are reliably professional, early, and blissfully unfazed by six half-drunk bottles of Pinot rolling around in the trunk. You can book them by the hour, too, making town-hopping (or continued winery-hopping) a realistic dream. I should warn you, of course, that your eventual departure from Yountville won't be an easy one. Without erring too close to Stepford WIves territory, it's the kind of idyllic place where linen-clad locals take their lunch to the picnic bench for fun. There's money here, obviously, but also a kind of small-town charm. Somehow, it all works. And I'm not sure I've ever been quite so sad to leave a place where I didn't know another person. Jessup Cellars in Yountville, Napa Where to go in Yountville, Napa After your morning coffee and a few litres of water, Jessup Cellars has to be your first stop. It's the platonic ideal of a tasting room: friendly, chic, and serious about its wines without ever feeling pretentious. The walls are hung with rotating art, the pours are generous, the playlists tasteful, and if you ask for Laurel, you'll get a host who's warm, sharp, and blessed with that rare gift of knowing exactly how much wine talk you want before your eyes glaze over. I walked out with the strong urge to empty my suitcase and fill it with bottles and bottles of the silky, tannic, tobacco-rich Juel. In fact, as I write this, I still regret not doing so. Nonetheless, everything in Yountville is a short stroll, or stumble, from Jessup. Walk five minutes and you're at Bistro Jeanty, still the best place to submit to buttery French classics. Yes, the tomato soup in puff pastry is iconic, and yes, it really is worth it. Across the way, Kollar Chocolates will ruin all other chocolate shops for you (the dark salted caramels are lethal) and, for something fresher, North Block is a newer star: seasonal small plates, gorgeous courtyards, and a confident 'Valley to Coast' tasting menu at a fraction of the cost of The French Laundry's (which, if you have the spare hundos to pay for it and the foresight to book months in advance, is also conveniently just down the road). Tacos Garcia, the unassuming taco truck parked near the top of Washington Street, is one of the best you'll find in the region, too. The French Laundry in Yountville, Napa As much as I hate to share hidden gems like this for fear I'll soon be priced out, you have book a room at Lavender—a B&B that nails the elusive 'romantic' sweet spot without feeling cringe. There's a fire pit, proper breakfasts, fantastically friendly service, and high-end rooms that don't look or feel like they were designed by Pinterest boards. The nightly wine and cheese hours are pretty useful in helping you keep the tasting party going, too. If you've somehow still got room (in your liver or your luggage), there are a few more tasting rooms worth weaving into your Yountville stroll, as well: Handwritten Wines for elevated small-lot storytelling, Hope & Grace for a quieter, boutique feel with knockout Pinots, and Hill Family Estate, where the pours are generous and the vibe's wonderfully welcoming. All walkable, all worth it, and—like everything I've recommended above—all best enjoyed without having to sip, spit, or sacrifice a designated driver.
Forbes
13-04-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Chenin Blanc Is Making A Quiet Return To Napa Valley
Charles Krug Winery in Napa Valley, California. By the end of the 1980s, chenin blanc had nearly vanished from Napa Valley's vineyards. Once widely planted, the grape was overshadowed by chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, which surged in popularity among producers and consumers. Today, a small but growing number of winemakers are turning their attention back to chenin blanc, drawn by its resilience, range and historical ties to the region. In the 1940s and 1950s, Napa's early wine pioneers saw potential in the grape. At its peak, Charles Krug, Napa Valley's oldest winery, was producing 280,000 to 300,000 cases of chenin blanc. 'Our grandfather, Peter Mondavi Sr., was one of the pioneers to plant chenin blanc in Napa Valley,' says Angelina Mondavi, a 4th generation co-proprietor and consulting winemaker at Charles Krug, via email. 'In the mid to late 1970s, white zinfandel and chardonnay began gaining popularity. Around the same time, cabernet sauvignon began to rise as Napa Valley's defining varietal. As a result, chenin blanc fell out of favor.' Chenin blanc was once widely planted across California, with nearly 45,000 acres recorded in 1984, making it one of the state's most common white grapes at the time. But its reputation as a high-yield blending grape, combined with shifting consumer preferences, led to a steep decline. By 2023, acreage had fallen to roughly 4,000, accounting for less than 1% of the state's wine grape plantings. Yet interest in the variety has begun to reemerge. At Palisades Canyon, for example, a $75 bottle of chenin blanc sold out quickly, a signal that consumer demand—while still niche—is no longer negligible. There were several causes behind the shift. Chardonnay's widespread appeal made it the preferred white varietal, followed closely by sauvignon blanc. Meanwhile, the structure and market success of cabernet sauvignon made it the dominant red, crowding out less popular varieties. 'Chenin Blanc is naturally vigorous, which led to the perception that it couldn't produce wines of the same quality as other white varieties,' says Colleen Fitzgerald, winemaker at Pine Ridge Vineyards. 'Over time, many plantings were repurposed for blending or bulk wine production rather than being showcased on their own.' That reputation has begun to shift. Producers are once again—slowly but surely—embracing the grape's flexibility and distinctive characteristics. 'I believe it is a combination of winemakers and consumers driving the revival of Chenin Blanc in Napa Valley,' says Mondavi. 'For some winemakers, including myself and our winemaker Stacy Clark, the return of chenin blanc feels nostalgic, a way to reconnect with Napa's heritage beyond chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.' 'I'd say winemakers have been the key drivers behind chenin blanc's revival,' echoes Fitzgerald. 'Sometimes it's referred to as the 'winemaker's varietal' because it can be made in so many different styles, from crisp white, oaked, sparkling and late harvest.' Climate considerations also factor into the renewed interest. With warming temperatures affecting ripening patterns and harvest schedules, chenin blanc offers adaptability. 'Napa Valley's warm Mediterranean climate—marked by dry summers and plenty of sunshine—allows for a wide range of chenin blanc styles,' says Mondavi. 'These can range from high-acid, bone-dry wines with citrus, green apple and white floral aromatics, to more opulent expressions with a touch of residual sugar.' That variety in style is part of what makes the grape appealing to winemakers looking for alternatives. 'Chenin blanc can have the bright, natural acidity of sauvignon blanc but also can offer weight and texture associated with chardonnay,' says Fitzgerald. 'Its versatility allows winemakers to make it into a range of styles, from crisp and mineral-driven to rich and barrel-aged.' Producers are also experimenting with fermentation techniques. 'Winemakers in Napa love exploring chenin blanc through a variety of fermentation vessels to build complexity,' Mondavi says. 'In our case, our Limited Release Chenin Blanc was fermented in 33% concrete egg and 67% stainless steel, then aged sur lies to enhance richness while highlighting floral, citrus and stone fruit notes.' Though demand for white wines still tilts heavily toward chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, some winemakers see room for change. 'Chenin blanc offers vibrant acidity, structure and complexity—while also capturing a sense of place,' Mondavi says. 'It's a refreshing alternative to the more commonly found whites, and for consumers, it presents a chance to discover something new.' Still, the grape faces commercial limitations. Cabernet sauvignon remains more profitable to grow, especially in Napa, where land values are high and vineyard space is limited. 'The biggest challenge is still planted cabernet sauvignon makes more money than planting white varieties overall,' Fitzgerald says. 'Chenin blanc faces the uphill challenge to other white varietals because of the reputation in the market.' Farming the grape also presents logistical challenges. 'The biggest challenge we face growing chenin blanc is its extreme susceptibility to bunch rot and mildew—on one end—and sunburn on the other,' says Mondavi. 'It's a delicate balance, requiring careful canopy management and timing in the vineyard.' Even so, winemakers continue to advocate for its potential. 'Chenin blanc is slowly carving out a stronger identity in Napa Valley as a compelling alternative to chardonnay and sauvignon blanc,' Mondavi says. 'Will it reach the scale it once had? Only time will tell.'
