Chenin Blanc Is Making A Quiet Return To Napa Valley

Forbes

13-04-2025

Charles Krug Winery in Napa Valley, California.
By the end of the 1980s, chenin blanc had nearly vanished from Napa Valley's vineyards. Once widely planted, the grape was overshadowed by chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, which surged in popularity among producers and consumers.
Today, a small but growing number of winemakers are turning their attention back to chenin blanc, drawn by its resilience, range and historical ties to the region.
In the 1940s and 1950s, Napa's early wine pioneers saw potential in the grape. At its peak, Charles Krug, Napa Valley's oldest winery, was producing 280,000 to 300,000 cases of chenin blanc.
'Our grandfather, Peter Mondavi Sr., was one of the pioneers to plant chenin blanc in Napa Valley,' says Angelina Mondavi, a 4th generation co-proprietor and consulting winemaker at Charles Krug, via email. 'In the mid to late 1970s, white zinfandel and chardonnay began gaining popularity. Around the same time, cabernet sauvignon began to rise as Napa Valley's defining varietal. As a result, chenin blanc fell out of favor.'
Chenin blanc was once widely planted across California, with nearly 45,000 acres recorded in 1984, making it one of the state's most common white grapes at the time. But its reputation as a high-yield blending grape, combined with shifting consumer preferences, led to a steep decline. By 2023, acreage had fallen to roughly 4,000, accounting for less than 1% of the state's wine grape plantings.
Yet interest in the variety has begun to reemerge. At Palisades Canyon, for example, a $75 bottle of chenin blanc sold out quickly, a signal that consumer demand—while still niche—is no longer negligible​.
There were several causes behind the shift. Chardonnay's widespread appeal made it the preferred white varietal, followed closely by sauvignon blanc. Meanwhile, the structure and market success of cabernet sauvignon made it the dominant red, crowding out less popular varieties.
'Chenin Blanc is naturally vigorous, which led to the perception that it couldn't produce wines of the same quality as other white varieties,' says Colleen Fitzgerald, winemaker at Pine Ridge Vineyards. 'Over time, many plantings were repurposed for blending or bulk wine production rather than being showcased on their own.'
That reputation has begun to shift. Producers are once again—slowly but surely—embracing the grape's flexibility and distinctive characteristics. 'I believe it is a combination of winemakers and consumers driving the revival of Chenin Blanc in Napa Valley,' says Mondavi. 'For some winemakers, including myself and our winemaker Stacy Clark, the return of chenin blanc feels nostalgic, a way to reconnect with Napa's heritage beyond chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.'
'I'd say winemakers have been the key drivers behind chenin blanc's revival,' echoes Fitzgerald. 'Sometimes it's referred to as the 'winemaker's varietal' because it can be made in so many different styles, from crisp white, oaked, sparkling and late harvest.'
Climate considerations also factor into the renewed interest. With warming temperatures affecting ripening patterns and harvest schedules, chenin blanc offers adaptability.
'Napa Valley's warm Mediterranean climate—marked by dry summers and plenty of sunshine—allows for a wide range of chenin blanc styles,' says Mondavi. 'These can range from high-acid, bone-dry wines with citrus, green apple and white floral aromatics, to more opulent expressions with a touch of residual sugar.'
That variety in style is part of what makes the grape appealing to winemakers looking for alternatives. 'Chenin blanc can have the bright, natural acidity of sauvignon blanc but also can offer weight and texture associated with chardonnay,' says Fitzgerald. 'Its versatility allows winemakers to make it into a range of styles, from crisp and mineral-driven to rich and barrel-aged.'
Producers are also experimenting with fermentation techniques. 'Winemakers in Napa love exploring chenin blanc through a variety of fermentation vessels to build complexity,' Mondavi says. 'In our case, our Limited Release Chenin Blanc was fermented in 33% concrete egg and 67% stainless steel, then aged sur lies to enhance richness while highlighting floral, citrus and stone fruit notes.'
Though demand for white wines still tilts heavily toward chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, some winemakers see room for change. 'Chenin blanc offers vibrant acidity, structure and complexity—while also capturing a sense of place,' Mondavi says. 'It's a refreshing alternative to the more commonly found whites, and for consumers, it presents a chance to discover something new.'
Still, the grape faces commercial limitations. Cabernet sauvignon remains more profitable to grow, especially in Napa, where land values are high and vineyard space is limited. 'The biggest challenge is still planted cabernet sauvignon makes more money than planting white varieties overall,' Fitzgerald says. 'Chenin blanc faces the uphill challenge to other white varietals because of the reputation in the market.'
Farming the grape also presents logistical challenges. 'The biggest challenge we face growing chenin blanc is its extreme susceptibility to bunch rot and mildew—on one end—and sunburn on the other,' says Mondavi. 'It's a delicate balance, requiring careful canopy management and timing in the vineyard.'
Even so, winemakers continue to advocate for its potential. 'Chenin blanc is slowly carving out a stronger identity in Napa Valley as a compelling alternative to chardonnay and sauvignon blanc,' Mondavi says. 'Will it reach the scale it once had? Only time will tell.'