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India.com
4 days ago
- India.com
Mahabalipuram: The Coastal Gem That's Stealing Every Traveler's Heart
Travel is not always about ticking off landmarks. Sometimes it's about letting a place tell you who it has been for hundreds of years. When you first arrive in Mahabalipuram, the air feels different. The sea is close — you can hear it before you see it. The breeze carries salt, stories, and the sound of chisels echoing from a time when kings ruled and stone spoke. This is not just another coastal town in Tamil Nadu. It's a living museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a place where history is not locked away in books but etched in rock for everyone to see. Most people know Mahabalipuram for the Shore Temple. But what if we told you there's more? Much more. This is a place where every carving, cave, and cliffside tells a story. Where mythology and history are intertwined, and where time feels both infinite and frozen. So, what makes Mahabalipuram different from anywhere else in India? It's not just the monuments. It's the combination of history, artistry, and nature. Mahabalipuram was once a busy seaport during the reign of the Pallava kings in the 7th and 8th centuries. Ships came from far-off lands. Traders exchanged goods, stories, and ideas. But beyond trade, it was a center of culture and creativity. The Pallavas didn't just build temples. They created stone poetry. Here, you find rock-cut caves, bas-reliefs, and monolithic temples — all carved out of granite using tools far simpler than you can imagine. The artistry is so precise that even centuries later, the details remain sharp. Unlike most historical towns, Mahabalipuram's monuments are not isolated. They are woven into the landscape. The boulders, the coast, and the architecture exist together — as if nature itself was a co-artist. The must-see icons of Mahabalipuram 1. Shore Temple – A guardian of the sea Standing on the edge of the Bay of Bengal, the Shore Temple is one of the oldest structural stone temples in South India. Its twin shrines face the rising sun, welcoming dawn each day for over a thousand years. The sound of waves here is not just background noise — it's part of the experience. 2. Arjuna's Penance – The world's largest bas-relief Stretching almost 100 feet long, this massive rock carving is a masterpiece of storytelling. Depicting scenes from the Mahabharata and everyday life, it feels like a snapshot of an ancient world. The elephants here are so lifelike you almost expect them to move. 3. Pancha Rathas – The five chariots of stone These monolithic temples, each carved from a single granite boulder, are shaped like chariots. Named after the Pandavas from the Mahabharata, they showcase a variety of architectural styles. Each ratha is unique, almost like five chapters of a design manual left behind by the Pallavas. 4. Krishna's Butter Ball – A defiance of gravity This massive granite boulder sits on a slope, seemingly ready to roll — but it never does. Locals call it Krishna's Butter Ball, and it has been balancing there for centuries. It's both a wonder and a mystery. 5. Cave Temples – Stories inside stone Scattered across the town, these rock-cut temples hold intricate sculptures of deities and mythical scenes. Each cave feels like stepping into a frozen moment of devotion and creativity. Why Mahabalipuram is more than just monuments History here is alive. You don't just visit Mahabalipuram — you walk through it. Children play cricket near thousand-year-old carvings. Fishermen dry their nets beside ancient temples. Tourists and locals share coconut water under the same banyan tree. It's also a place of contrasts. The stillness of a stone carving meets the movement of ocean waves. The weight of history meets the lightness of a beach holiday. Experiences you should not miss Watch the sunrise at Shore Temple – The first light of day hitting the temple towers is unforgettable. Walk the sculpture trail – The town is dotted with workshops where artisans still chisel granite just like their ancestors did. Taste the local seafood – From fresh prawns to spicy fish curry, the coastal flavors here are as memorable as the monuments. Cycle around town – The flat terrain and open spaces make cycling the best way to explore hidden corners. Practical tips for exploring Mahabalipuram like a local Start early – The light is best in the morning, and you'll avoid the midday heat. Wear comfortable shoes – You'll be walking on stone pathways and sandy stretches. Hydrate often – The coastal climate can be humid, so keep water handy. Respect the heritage – Avoid touching carvings or climbing where it's not allowed. Engage with locals – Many have stories that aren't written in guidebooks. The hidden economy of heritage tourism When you visit Mahabalipuram, you're not just seeing history — you're sustaining it. Your entry tickets support the upkeep of monuments. Buying handicrafts supports artisans who carry forward centuries-old skills. Eating at local eateries helps small businesses thrive. Choosing homestays over large hotels spreads tourism benefits across the community. Every rupee you spend here becomes part of the preservation story. So, what's stopping you? Is it the idea that you've 'seen one temple, you've seen them all'? Mahabalipuram will prove you wrong. Each carving, each structure, each rock face has something different to say. And the best part? The town isn't rushing you. It's okay if you linger. It's okay if you sit under a tree and simply watch the sea. Mahabalipuram doesn't demand your attention — it earns it. Final thought Don't just visit Mahabalipuram. Listen to it. Walk slowly. Touch the texture of stone shaped centuries ago. Stand by the shore and imagine ships sailing in from distant lands. Watch the light change over granite as the day unfolds. Because history here isn't locked away. It's out in the open, waiting for you to notice. Mahabalipuram is famous not just because it is old, but because it is alive. And if you let it, it will tell you a story you won't forget.
The Hindu
28-07-2025
- General
- The Hindu
Two heritage buildings to be restored; plans afoot for maritime museum at Chennai port
Two heritage buildings in Chennai: the time-worn Oriental Research Institute on Kamarajar Salai and a century-old structure belonging to the Chennai Port Authority: are set to be restored. The Public Works Department's Building Centre and Conservation Division, which specialises in heritage conservation, will execute the renovation projects in a few months. The department has invited bids for carrying out the two projects to restore the buildings back to their original shape. The stately red brick building with stone pillars on the facade houses the Oriental Research Institute in the Marina campus of Madras University. Built in 1935 as the University Examination Hall, the two-storey building is now used as offices and departments of classical and vernacular languages. Officials of the PWD noted that 50% of the building, which is a combination of red bricks, stone and reinforced concrete, has suffered damage over the decades. The steel columns covered in brick work have corroded. Citing the Justice Committee report, the officials said spread over 27,881 the structure is modern in composition and has reinforced cement concrete on its roof. The Rs.19 crore work would include replacing cracked stone pillars with eight new stone column pillars and reconstruction of brick and stone masonry walls, said Gnansehar, superintending engineer, BCCD, PWD. The 104-year old Hydraulic Powerhouse structure also called as 'Stone Building' at Chennai Port area is up for renovation after many years. Officials said the pre-independence era structure, which is spread over nearly 5,974 is now being used as an electricity substation. The rectangular building with a provision for chimney too has suffered 50% of damage particularly Madras Terrace roof. The plastering in the interior walls has peeled off and wooden doors and windows have to be replaced. The Chennai Port Authority has entrusted ₹5.25 crore to PWD to execute the restoration project. Once the heritage structure is restored, the Chennai Port Authority plans to establish a maritime museum to boost tourism. Sunil Paliwal, Chairperson, Chennai Port Authority, said it was one of the oldest buildings in the Chennai port. There are plans to set up a maritime museum showcasing maritime heritage dating back to Cholas and Pallavas era. This would add to the monuments, including old two-tonne anchor and other attractions like the port signal station, which witnesses a stream of visitors, including students. With the Cordelia cruises planning to extend its operations to entire year instead of current four-month schedule in Chennai port, passengers would also be taken a tour to museum. The PWD will also soon take up restoration of the old Harbour station at a cost of ₹4.9 crore, said.
The Hindu
18-07-2025
- General
- The Hindu
The puzzling architectural marvels of Mamallapuram
You've all solved puzzles by putting together jigsaw pieces, or unscrambling jumbled letters. When historians research things about the past, it is also like solving a puzzle — using the pieces of what is left, and piecing together the missing information. But a few centuries ago, the Pallavas — a flourishing South Indian dynasty who ruled for many centuries — built an entire town of stone monuments, which has puzzled historians over generations. Mamallapuram (or Mahabalipuram), is located around 50km from Chennai. The Pallavas made valuable contributions to architecture and sculpture, and Mamallapuram was the centre of their building activity. The town, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is filled with structures of historical importance including cave temples, sculptures on stone called bas reliefs and stand-alone temples. One of the most unusual and highly visited set of monuments are the 'Pancha Pandava Rathas', built between 630 to 670 CE. When you look at these five structures, it may strike you that each has a different style. One looks like a hut, one has a vaulted semi-circular roof, some have pyramidal towers, and one has a curved back like an elephant. Some of them have elements from older Buddhist structures. Why were they built this way? Finding answers One theory is that the town of Mamallapuram was like a workshop or school for sculptors. Artisans built these 'full-size models', tried different methods of carving, and perfected their techniques — all to decide the patterns that future temple builders could use. Each ratha has a shrine inside to different deity, but they were not fully completed, and never used for worship; possibly supporting the theory that they were model pieces. But their true purpose remains an enigma. These rathas, along with many structures in Mamallapuram, remain one of the finest examples of stone architecture and sculpture of the period. In fact, four of these rathas are guessed to be carved out of one massive rock that was slowly chipped away and carved into separate temples. Another puzzle is their names. They are named after the Pandavas from the Mahabharata — Dharmaraja Ratha, Arjuna Ratha, Bhima Ratha, Nakula-Sahadeva Ratha and Draupadi Ratha. But no actual connection has been found between the rathas and the Pandavas, and we don't know when and how these names originated. Mamallapuram is a site with many such mysteries, in its art, sculptures and architecture. In the children's book Mysteries of Mamallapuram, writer Ashwin Prabhu takes readers through the many of riddles and concludes, 'there doesn't have to always be one story, because there is so much in the past that we don't know yet!' History is something that experts are still uncovering. Take a trip for yourself and find out what parts of the Mamallapuram puzzle you can solve!
Indian Express
28-05-2025
- General
- Indian Express
Writer's Corner: Anirudh Kanisetti's latest sheds light on how Chola empire's women and village assemblies shaped history
Around the turn of the previous millennium, in the wake of the decline of the Pallavas and the collapse of the Rashtrakutas, a new power had arisen in the lands watered by the Kaveri. The Cholas would go from strength to strength, their influence felt far up the eastern coasts and across the seas in Southeast Asia. As the Cholas declined in their latter days, new social and cultural trends arose amid the political changes. It is this diverse history that historian Anirudh Kanisetti tackles in his latest book, Lords of Earth and Sea: A History of the Chola Empire. Kanisetti first explored the history of the Cholas as part of his previous work, Lords of the Deccan, before devoting an entire book to the dynasty's history. Speaking to The Indian Express, he said, 'I became aware that my perspective was a very Deccan perspective. That's not all they were… They were an empire of the crossroads. They ruled over a large chunk of the East Coast, were connected to Sri Lanka and Southeast Asia. They were also well-connected to South Karnataka. I wanted to supplement this with the latest scholarship.' He added, 'While a lot of actors and politicians have been speaking of the Cholas of late, I wanted to present a history extensively steeped in the primary source. The Cholas were remarkable for their extensive inscriptions on temple walls. Simply absorbing that immense mass of material was quite a challenge. Across medieval Tamil Nadu, for all donors, there was a tendency to make inscriptions when a gift was made. This allows us to read deeply into the social history of this region… How temple donation practices and socioeconomic systems changed over centuries.' Apart from the help rendered by existing translations of Chola inscriptions and the latest research on them, Kanisetti's fieldwork also involved visiting Chola temple sites in Tamil Nadu and South Karnataka. The border region in South Karnataka, known as Gangavadi, was ruled by the Cholas after being captured by Raja Raja Chola. Recent archaeological discoveries were also of value. Kanisetti recalled, 'There have been very interesting findings at the Chola Palace in Gangaikonda Cholapuram (the Chola capital built by Emperor Rajendra I) besides the presence in Sri Lanka and Southeast Asia. To understand the Cholas, you must not look just at literary claims but also the hard evidence. Archaeologists working in Anuradhapura (in Sri Lanka) and Sumatra have really transformed our understanding of how the Chola world operated. On the Chola footprint in South Karnataka, he noted that it had manifested in multilingualism by way of the presence of the Tamil language, such as in temple inscriptions. Their presence was also felt in architecture, such as at the Kolaramma Temple where Chola officials and rulers had made proclamations. He added that the Begur Temple also had a shivalingam known as the 'Choleswara', possibly after a Chola general. An interesting topic covered in the book is that of Chola queens such as Sembiyan Mahadevi as well as those women who did not have similar means. Kanisetti said, 'The popular understanding does not do justice. They were primarily seen as pious women. Quite a lot of scholarship and inscriptions shows that these women also had very intelligent political minds and were sophisticated patrons of art and architecture. It was evident while looking at the history of temple bronzes and patronage that, in a lot of ways, women were the pioneers.' Kanisetti also noted that space in history ought to be given to those women smaller in stature than the queens, such as temple donors and politicians of various social classes, and those who did not leave as deep a mark on the historical record. He added that it was an eye-opener as to how often people who might be considered less important had influenced Tamil devotional culture. 'Many of the famous gopurams (towers) that you see across temples were actually commissioned as the empire was declining. They were commissioned by generals and aristocrats who were attempting to break away from Chola authority. Their wives and children made gifts to these sites. The way that Tamil temples developed into sprawling compounds was really a development of the late Chola period.' In his book, Kanisetti also highlights the role that village assemblies played, noting that often even Chola kings and princes took efforts to stay in their good graces. He noted that assemblies of cultivators such as the 'Shining Plough' would often take their own decisions on taxation without consulting royal officers. He said, 'The voices of the smaller people insisted on being heard and leaving a mark on the historical record… It really opened my eyes to the fact that medieval India was vast and politically diverse. These were intelligent people capable of holding their rulers to account and taking their own decisions. In a way, it makes you appreciate how deep India's democratic roots go.'
India Today
22-05-2025
- General
- India Today
How Rajendra I Chola became ruler of the seas and led an expedition to far East
TS Rajendra was a Navy training ship commissioned on April 2, 1972. This legendary vessel was named after Rajendra I Chola the Great, who conquered parts of Southeast Asia during the early mediaeval period. It was under his reign that Indian culture travelled to the distant shores of Southeast conquered regions of present-day Indonesia, Myanmar, Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Maldives, Thailand, Singapore, Cambodia, and the Nicobar Islands. At its height, the Chola Empire commanded vast maritime Chola ruled for 30 years, from 1014 CE to 1044 CE, and is often referred to as Rajendra Chola the Great. Throughout history, we have heard of kings who ruled vast territories -- Alexander the Great, for example, who dominated Europe and the Middle East. Similarly, the Roman Empire left a lasting legacy, having governed all of Europe and parts of Rajendra I Chola, the Chola Empire's trade boundaries extended as far as Song China, and this was facilitated through connections with the Khmer Empire who are renowned for constructing the largest Hindu temple, Angkor famous expedition of Rajendra I Chola to Srivijaya (present-day Indonesia) forever changed the political and cultural influence of the empire far in the Cholas also had trade links with the Arab world and Africa, establishing a far-reaching commercial Cholas were not only known as skilled warriors and capable administrators, but were also accomplished builders. One notable achievement is the construction of Brihadeeswarar Temple at Thanjavur, built by Rajaraja I Chola, father of Rajendra I, in 1010 its height, the temple became one of the wealthiest in the region. It also served as an administrative centre, supporting activities related to social welfare and public SR Balasubrahmanyam records that Rajaraja gifted over 38,000 gold coins -- more than many European courts of the time. Alongside jewels and silver seized from defeated rivals, his offerings totalled nearly 95,500 gold coins. Chola empire under Rajendra I (Image: Wikimedia Commons) RISE OF THE CHOLASIndian history records two Chola dynasties from Southern India -- one as early as the 2nd and 3rd centuries BCE, and the other, the Imperial Cholas, to which Rajendra I belonged. The latter dynasty was based in Thanjavur and rose to power after defeating the Pallavas. Founded by Vijayalaya Chola, historians debate the lineage connection between the early and later Sailendra Nath Sen writes in Ancient Indian History and Civilisation, 'Vijayalaya, a descendant of the Early Cholas, reestablished (or founded) the Chola empire in 848 CE.'Around 850 CE, Vijayalaya Chola, seized Thanjavur from the Muttarayars during a conflict between the Pandyas and Pallavas, laying the foundation for the Imperial Chola Aditya I, the Cholas allied with the Pallavas to defeat the Pandyas in 885 CE and expanded into the Kannada the later years, the Cholas fought not only the southern powers but a major land-dominant dynasty, Rashtrkutas who ruled in ancient and mediaeval William Dalrymple notes in The Golden Road, 'The Chola dynasty grew to become the most powerful of all South Indian empires after defeating their rivals -- the Pallavas, their one-time overlords.'The Chola control over the entire southern coastline is remembered today in the Tamil term for the eastern coast -- Coromandel, which is a corruption of Cholamandala, meaning "Circle of Chola Rule."An eleventh-century Chinese bureaucrat offered a vivid glimpse into the grandeur of the Chola empire, writing:"The crown of the [Chola]" ruler is decorated with luminous pearls and rare precious stones. He is often at war with various kingdoms of Western Heaven [India]. The kingdom has sixty thousand war elephants. There are almost 10,000 female servants, 3,000 of whom alternate every day to serve at the court."advertisementThis account reflects not only the wealth and opulence of the Chola court but also the vast military strength and intricate administrative sophistication of one of South India's most powerful empires. Shiva as the lord of dance, Chola dynasty (Image: Wikimedia Commons) Verily, it was during the reign of Rajaraja Chola I that the venerable image of Nataraja -- Shiva as the cosmic dancer -- was drawn forth from the mists of sacred devotion and placed squarely at the heart of the Chola vision of divine the origins of this form lay in the fervent Tamil bhakti of earlier centuries, it was under Rajaraja's discerning furtherance that Natraja Shiva assumed new I CHOLA THE GREATRajendra Chola I rose to the throne in 1014 CE, after the death of Rajaraja I Chola. Even though nominated heir in 1012, it was only with Rajaraja's death that Rajendra finally came into his own as the chief force behind the Chola Empire's emergence as a power who ruled south-east Asia for the early 11th century, Rajendra Chola wanted to expand as well as legitimise his rule with bold and unorthodox tactics. He invested his sons with regalia taken from conquered enemies, naming them as "Chola Lord of Lanka" and "Chola-Pandya" to establish Chola his most dramatic action was the pursuit of a digvijaya -- a victory of the directions, aimed not just to add more territory to his empire, but to announce himself as universal emperor, with authority emanating to all points of the known world. Rajndra I Chola in Battle (Image: Wikimedia Commons) To an extent, it could be said that it was Rajaraja I who directed the Chola forces to penetrate into land to far east which not only covered land but mighty ocean first started to set about securing his grip on Sri Lanka, which in some parts had been conquered during Rajaraja I, completing a campaign begun by his father. He took King Mahinda 5 captive and subjugated the whole island to Chola power for the first initial military effectiveness and martial qualities of Rajendra I Chola were honed by campaigns against the Western Chalukyas and the kingdom of Anuradhapura, in addition to crushing rebellions in the regions of Chera and achievements of these regions not only consolidated the empire's southern border but also cemented Rajendra's status as a strategist who mastered I Chola expanded the influence of the empire by conquering Kalinga and Vengi and then defeated the Palas of Bengal, after which he was titled Gangaikonda Cholan, or "The Chola who conquered the Ganges".To mark the triumph, he established Gangaikondacholapuram, an imperial new capital which was a trade centre, administrative centre, and hub of cultural far from the Indian mainland, Rajendra gained control over Laccadive or Lakshdweep and the Maldives, which were the key islands on Indian Ocean trade routes connecting the Arab and African I CHOLA'S SEA EXPEDITIONS TO THE EASTHaving the ambition to establish dominance over the seas, Rajendra I led campaigns years after his accession to the throne, reaching the Far East, including Sumatra and other nearby empires. Seal of Rajendra I Chola found in far east (Image: Wikimedia commons) The first to be hit was Srivijaya (present-day Indonesia and Sumatra), which held a major point on the sea route to Majumdar writes in the overseas expedition of Rajendra Chola: "The attacks by one of the alliances of the Cholas on Sri Vijaya, the Khmer Empire under Suryavarman I, allowed Rajendra I to cross the seas and help Suryavarman.""As both the Khmer and the Cholas were Hindu kingdoms, their alliance was predominant. To counter this, Tambralinga of the Malay Peninsula turned to Srivijaya, whose rulers were Buddhists. Thus, it was set in motion a series of hostilities that culminated in the famed Chola naval expedition against Srivijaya," he writes campaign conquered parts of the Srivijaya empire, including regions such as Kedah, Tambralinga, and Pegu, extending Chola influence deep into Southeast the campaign, the Cholas sacked the capitals Kadaram and Pannai on Sumatra, and Malaiyur on the Malay Chola invasion did not only mark a military victory, but also the extensive proliferation of Tamil commercial activities beyond the seas of the east. Merchant guilds of ancient prestige -- like the Manigramam, the brave Ayyavole, and the famous Ainnurruvar -- did venture far into the vibrant ports of South-East for the greater part of a century to come, the business of trade and commerce in those far-off lands came to be directed, indeed controlled, by the hardworking hands of Tamil influence of this lasted for centuries, and records also show that a later branch of the Cholas ruled parts of Southeast Asia until the 16th century and contributed largely to the region's history. Charter issued by Rajendra I Chola (Image: Wikimedia Commons) It was then, under Rajendra I Chola, that the Tamil diaspora turned hand to an extensive expansion. Tamil temples began to appear along China's shores and across Southeast findings -- Tamil inscriptions, trade artifacts, and even adornments like a wedding necklace on an Arab or Indonesian bride of a Tamil trader -- testify to the rich cross-cultural exchange of these language of the Sumatran Karo tribe still carries dozens of Tamil loanwords -- a living testimony to the global influence of the Chola was the dominance of Rajendra I Chola on land and seas that made him The Great Rajendra I Chola, and it was his naval expedition that connected the Far East with southern India and established the exchange of trade and culture for Watch
