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Washington Post
18-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Washington Post
When everybody's a critic, they miss what makes restaurants special
The Formica countertop at Ben's Chili Bowl sports a few greasy streaks from the last customer to dig into a chili-cheese dog at the historic U Street diner. The handful of employees working the dinner shift on this July evening are too preoccupied with their tasks — grilling links, calling out orders, running drinks to diners — to take a rag and wipe down the counter, so I grab a few paper napkins and handle the task myself. Given I have no cleaning liquid, my efforts do little more than dull the splatters. When I ducked into the Bowl, less than a week before it closed for renovations, I didn't expect to become a volunteer member of the cleaning crew. But I also didn't mind. The original Ben's is not a regular restaurant, not to my mind. The Ali family's long history of civic engagement — decades of good deeds, much of it invisible to the average patron — invites me to recalibrate my role as diner. If I occasionally have to pitch in, I accept it as part of the implicit covenant with Ben's: You don't sit back and wait to be pampered. You help each other, like neighbors do. You embrace its shortcomings as you would a relative or friend. Clearly, many people don't agree with this proposition, judging by the crowdsourced reviews and the comments section on just about every story published about Ben's. Folks complain about the chili. They grumble about the hygiene of the place. They claim they got sick there. They fuss about the price tag to feed their family some hot dogs and fries. They view the place almost exclusively through the prism of their own creature comforts. On some level, I get it. The restaurant didn't live up to the expectations diners had set, and the many tourists who visit Ben's don't have any relationship with it to moderate their opinions. Yet, on another level, I see little but a lack of perspective. In other forms of entertainment, people willingly embrace the concept of genre and calibrate their expectations accordingly. I'm pretty sure the moviegoers who laid down cash for 'Deadpool & Wolverine' last summer didn't walk into the theater expecting a meditation on clerical authoritarianism in Iran. They were ready for a big sweaty summer blockbuster, dripping with action and sarcasm for the Marvel Cinematic Universe that it embraces and scorns. And that's what they got. In the same vein, no one expects a summer beach read to be Dostoyevsky or a community theater program to have the same production values as a Broadway show. But when it comes to hospitality, Americans have a difficult time meeting restaurants where they are. People clamor for something more or better: They want an understaffed neighborhood restaurant to have the same attentive service as a two-star Michelin destination. They want a greasy spoon to evolve with their refined tastes, nurtured by a generation of food television and social media influencers, regardless of how such changes might affect the business's bottom line or betray its own history. A Gallup survey from September details our deteriorating relationship with restaurants. In 2023, 61 percent of Americans were very or somewhat positive about the restaurant industry. Last year, those good feelings dropped nine percentage points. Historically, Gallup noted, restaurants have averaged a 61 percent positive rating and a 10 percent negative one. The negative rating stood at 16 percent last year, up four points from 2023. All the goodwill that restaurants generated during the pandemic, as their employees risked infection to keep us fed, has largely evaporated. Nearly half of Americans have no positive feelings whatsoever for restaurants, a percentage that staggers the mind given the industry's raison d'être is to provide patrons with an inviting place to unwind and satisfy their hunger. The industry is obviously failing on a grand scale. Restaurant economics are one clear source of public irritation. As prices for operating a restaurant rise — rent, labor, ingredients, insurance, you name it — these increased costs are reflected not just on dinner bills but with that little addition to the bottom of the check: the mandatory service charge, the bane of the modern diner's existence. Americans have not been shy about expressing their displeasure over surcharges, which can run 20 percent or higher. In a YouGov poll last year, 70 percent of respondents found it unacceptable when a restaurant automatically applies a 20 percent service charge to the tab. A Pew Research Center poll from late 2023 found that 72 percent of Americans were opposed to service charges of any kind, regardless of how big or small. That is a plausible explanation for America's growing disenchantment with dining out. But as I try to make sense of it myself, I see larger cultural influences at play, too. Last summer, Jaya Saxena wrote a thorough and thoughtful piece for Eater about Yelp and the culture of criticism that it helped foster. She examines the evidence at hand and arrives at a sound conclusion: 'It is now possible to publicly rate, positively or negatively, just about any experience you have,' Saxena wrote. 'This can cause a tiny change in how one might approach these experiences: Instead of focusing on how you feel about it now, the perception shifts to what you might say about it later. A culture all about reviews welcomes constant real-time evaluation, which puts you in a different mindset than just being.' You can, without question, approach any restaurant from a purely intellectual/critical perspective. You can use your knowledge, honed to a fine edge from gastronomic literature, personal experience and YouTube videos, to deliver a dispassionate dissertation on why a restaurant falls short of the mark. But that approach only goes so far if you really want to understand a restaurant and your relationship to it. At some point, you have to ask yourself: Did I surrender to the experience and allow my irrational mind — the one ruled by emotions, physical sensations, childlike urges — to have its say? The reasons we love restaurants sometimes defy cold logic. Just as important, tabletop critics need to evaluate their own evaluations: Does their criticism place too much emphasis on certain elements of the restaurant experience at the expense of the bigger picture? I go back to the analogy of the genre movie: Sure, a critic can pick apart a 'John Wick' flick — the bombastic action sequences, the leaps of logic, the cartoon characters — while ignoring how the film drops you into a universe of its own creation, daring you to come along for the ride, flaws and all. Genre movies often require a suspension of disbelief — which is just another way to say they require you to dial down your critic — to be fully enjoyed. The same can be said of restaurants. Some of my favorite places to eat have created a world all their own. I'm thinking not just about Ben's Chili Bowl on U Street, but also about Murry & Paul's in Brookland, Peter's Carry-Out in Bethesda, Great Wall Szechuan House on 14th Street NW (RIP), Quarry House Tavern in Silver Spring and many others. These places have history (or did, in Great Wall's case), the kind that sparks the imagination once you step inside them. They create community. They invite you to settle into their ecosystem, full of quirks and defects and a million little moments of unpredictable joy. Many of these places will not stand up to the scrutiny of those who carry a hammer and see everything as a nail. I was talking to Jackie Greenbaum the other day. You may know her as the restaurateur behind Quarry House and other neighborhood gems. She floated a theory that combines both restaurant economics and the culture of complaint cultivated over the past two decades. 'The desire to criticize is directly proportionate to prices, in my opinion, and price increases,' Greenbaum told me. 'It sets up an environment where you're looking to justify a $29 Caesar salad, for instance. It's my experience as a diner as well: 'I could make this better at home. What's so special about this?'' I think Greenbaum's argument is strong, though I'm not sure price increases alone explain the public's repeated criticisms of Ben's. Many diners just don't like the place. But until they stop treating Ben's as a science experiment, viewing it under the microscope of their own dissatisfaction, they never will understand a restaurant that benefits from suspending your critic for an hour and soaking in everything this historic business represents, including a chili sauce that has passed the lips of presidents and civil rights leaders alike. There's something special about that that no review will ever capture.
Yahoo
17-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Beyond The Gates Recap: Bill and Malone Stop Martin From Exposing Everyone's Secrets
Beyond The Gates Recap: Bill and Malone Stop Martin From Exposing Everyone's Secrets originally appeared on Daytime Confidential. On today's Beyond The Gates recap: Fairmont Country Club - Lobby: Dani reviews pictures of her modeling days when Vanessa arrives. They greet each other in a goofy but familiar way and Vanessa takes a seat. She asks what's wrong but Dani would rather hear about the fabulous location she's found for the modeling agency. She has something in Georgetown but thinks she should consider U Street. Dani notes the street used to be called Black Broadway. Vanessa notes all the black royalty who once lived there. Dani doesn't want to think about it as she's certain her return to modeling is going to flop. Vanessa is stunned to learn she might be going back, and Dani says it's Pamela's grand idea. Naomi and Jacob's Apartment: Naomi (and her beautiful new hair) talks about June as Jacob is too distracted to listen. She sits in his lap and Jacob says he thinks Martin is in over his head. Naomi asks for details, and he fills her in on Kenneth's interactions with the kids. They don't have many details, and Martin won't explain anything to Smitty. Jacob goes on to explain Martin going to Malone which confuses Naomi as much as it does Jacob and Smitty. He thinks the whole situation is about to blow sky high. Naomi thinks about June and wishes there was some way she could contact her family or anyone who would care what happens to her after she's released from the hospital. Jacob remembers the phone number on the picture but Naomi thinks it was a dead end. Jacob thinks she should keep calling back until someone talks to her. Joey's Gambling Pit: Joey and Malone are playing cards. Just then, Malone gets a text saying Kenneth has been spotted. Bill arrives and Malone updates him on the lead to Kenneth's location. Bill goes off saying Martin is stressed out and threatening to take control of the operation. Vernon is trying to rein him in but they don't have a great deal of time. Just then, Malone exits to follow up on his lead. Bill tells Joey that Vernon still wants to go the way of non-violence. However, those times are long gone since Kenneth made his way into Martin's house and chatted up both kids. Just then, Bill gets a call asking why Congressman Richardson is throwing an impromptu press conference. Park: Smitty looks around when Kenneth walks up. Smitty asks why Kenneth has been hanging around his kids, but he thinks he should check in with his husband. Kenneth walks away but Smitty calls him back and asks for a message to give to Martin. Kenneth says to tell his husband he missed the deadline and wants him money tonight. He goes on to say Martin is, in fact, the bad guy in this situation. Kenneth sits in the park alone when he sees breaking news of Martin's press conference. Orphey Gene's: The restaurant is closed for Martin's press conference. A member of the press is curious why there's a lack of press corps and family. Just then, Vernon arrives and wants to chat about Martin's earlier encounter with Bill. He worries his grandson is going to unburden himself in a public forum. Martin all but confirms Vernon's assumptions as he warns his grandson not to ruin his life. Vernon says a public confession isn't the answer, but Martin thinks it's the only way to protect the children. He goes on to give some details of what happened two years ago. Martin says he reacted to an obvious hate crime. Vernon jumps in and says he was defending the both of them. That being said, they didn't report it which means they are open to all kinds of scrutiny. Martin doesn't care as long as the kids are safe. Vernon wants to throw cash at Kenneth, but Martin thinks he will keep coming back. He mentions the previously bungled payoff and Vernon says it was all Joey's fault. Martin says he never would have gone along with the plan had he known Joey was involved. Vernon begs Martin to put the press conference on hold for a few days so he can take care of the situation. Martin returns to the Joey of it all, but Vernon defends his involvement as desperate times form strange alliances. Martin is having none of it and believes he needs to confess. Martin and Vernon rejoin the press folks in the front when Joey walks in. Vernon goes over and says the only reason the presser is happening is because of the mess Joey made. Joey denies making a mess but says everything is being taken care of as they speak. Just then, Bill arrives. Vernon explains why Martin is going rogue and how Bill should understand as he is a father, too. Bill gets it and says he will talk to Martin. Vanessa walks in and is surprised to find Vernon and learn about Martin's press conference. She says she doesn't really follow politics but is there to meet with an impressive new client. She looks across the room and spots Joey. Vernon is surprised they keep company but she says she would sell anything to pretty much anyone. Joey tries to charm Vanessa who only wants to know why they are there. Martin doesn't want to hear from Bill or anyone else who wants to change his mind about telling the truth. Bill thinks he is making a mistake but will stand by his decision. If Martin insists on telling the truth, Bill thinks he will need a good defense attorney. Martin is surprised by his uncle and accepts Bill's offer. The last member of the press arrives and Martin is ready to get started. Bill tells him to run and get some water and let him do the introductions (Bill is so smooth). He takes the podium and says they will get started shortly. Vernon is confused by what's going on and Bill says he is stalling and to trust him. He returns to the podium and introduces himself and his relationship to Martin. Bill waxes poetic about Martin as a child and all the reasons he admires his nephew. Just then, Vernon looks out the window and spies Malone holding a gun on Kenneth and then dragging him away (I hope no camera crews are outside the presser!). As Bill speaks, Vanessa wants to know why she and Joey are there. Joey likes watching her connect the dots. She connects them quickly as she realizes he needs to be seen with her in such a public place, so he has an unimpeachable alibi, for something… Martin and Smitty's Digs: Samantha is filling in Tyrell on their pop decking Kenneth. She says they clearly know each other and have beef. Whatever the beef, their pop is completely freaked out and now the police are watching the house. Tyrell spies the cops from the window. Samantha tells Tyrell about Smitty's ultimatum to Martin and worries she just watched her parents split up. Just then, Smitty returns and says he needs a minute and then will do his best to answer all of their questions. Smitty returns with two bags in hand and tells the kids they belong to their pop. They beg him not to throw pop out, but Smitty says he simply can't stay at the house with them right now. Samantha freaks out thinking it's her fault for talking to Kenneth. Tyrell joins in but Smitty says nothing is their fault. None of them had any way of knowing the man was dangerous. Samantha begs again for them to talk about it and Smitty relents. Samantha asks what's going on and Smitty admits he doesn't really know. Tyrell thinks his dad is being evasive, but Smitty says he's still piecing things together. The only thing he knows for certain is their pop went to the police and asked for 24-hour protection. Smitty can't get beyond Martin keeping secrets which put them at risk. Samantha asks that they wait for pop to get home so they can figure out what to do together. Smitty says the secret about Kenneth isn't the only thing their pop has been holding back. Tyrell inquires and Smitty say Martin has been keeping secrets for months. They've been arguing for a while. The kids know they've been fighting but think they shouldn't just give up. Smitty hopes everything works out but asks what the one family rule is. In unison, the kids say, 'everybody tells everybody everything.' Previous Beyond The Gates Recap: Endings Naomi dials the number from the photograph and gets an answer. She introduces herself and asks if they know someone named June. They hang up and an enraged Naomi calls right back. This time, the person on the other line says, 'don't call this number again, my sister is dead to me.' Smitty apologizes to the kids for the situation but says he can't let things with their pop continue. They have a lot of issues to deal with so their pop could be gone for a while. The kids are upset and Smitty sits between them and pulls them close. Martin interrupts Bill's generous introduction and takes the podium. As Martin is clearly about to step down from his post, Bill gets a text from Malone saying 'done' with a picture of a seemingly dead Kenneth. Bill slides the phone under Martin's nose and the sight of the picture renders him speechless. Bill retakes the podium and says they have to cut the presser short as they have a family emergency. Bill leans down to Martin and says, 'it's over.' Keep checking back for the latest Beyond The Gates recaps! This story was originally reported by Daytime Confidential on Jul 16, 2025, where it first appeared. Solve the daily Crossword
Axios
02-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Axios
Cowboy Carter is coming to D.C. — here's your Beyoncé party plan
Beyoncé is bringing her Cowboy Carter tour to Washington starting Friday — but even if you don't attend IRL, there are plenty of ways to hang with the BeyHive this weekend. Why it matters: It's a long weekend — pack in as much Bey as possible. Here are some Beyoncé-inspired events to check out: 🎤 BeyHive Karaoke: Head to Ivy City Smokehouse on Thursday for live karaoke accompanied by some of the musicians who've been touring with Queen B herself. (9pm-2am; $36) 🍽️ Beyoncé Brunch: Her Diner in Adams Morgan will host a Bey-themed brunch on Friday with booze and tunes. (11am-4pm) 🪩 Night of 1,000 Beyoncés: U Street's Bunker will blast ballads spanning Beyoncé's career on Friday, interspersed with drag performances. (10pm-4am; free before 11pm; tickets $6-$10) 🧘 Cowboy Carter Yogalates: The Eaton will host a combo yoga-pilates session Saturday inspired by the Beyoncé album. (10:30-11:45am; $28) 🕺 Les Twins Pop-Up Workshop: The French hip-hop dance duo that often tours with Queen B will teach you all their moves during this Saturday workshop at the Edgewood Arts Center. (6-9pm; $50-$60) 🤠 Hive Hoedown: Swing by the Howard Theatre on Sunday for live music, Beyoncé bingo, line dancing, DJs and a contest to see who's rocking the best 'fit. (4-8pm; $33-$55) If you do go: There are still tickets available to both shows on Friday and Monday.
New York Times
01-07-2025
- Politics
- New York Times
An Offhand Remark About Gold Bars, Secretly Recorded, Upended His Life
They matched on Tinder shortly after the November presidential election, shared their mutual disappointment about Donald J. Trump's victory and agreed to meet for a drink. Sitting at a table at Licht Cafe, a bar on Washington's U Street corridor, Brent Efron and his date, Brady, talked a bit about home and hobbies. But Brady — or at least that's the name he used — repeatedly steered the conversation back to Mr. Efron's job at the Environmental Protection Agency. 'It was a boring date,' Mr. Efron, 29, recalled. 'He just wanted to talk about work.' Brady took a particular interest in the fate of billions of dollars that Congress had ordered the E.P.A. to spend on tackling climate change. Mr. Trump had promised on the campaign trail to repeal climate programs, so the Biden administration was 'trying to get the money out as fast as possible,' Mr. Efron told his date. Mr. Efron, a passionate believer in the E.P.A.'s mission 'to protect human health and the environment,' came up with an analogy to describe what was happening: The agency was a cruise ship that had hit an iceberg. It needed to launch its lifeboats — climate and clean energy projects — right away. 'It truly feels we're on the Titanic and we're throwing gold bars off the edge,' he told Brady. Brady left after about an hour and Mr. Efron said he barely thought about the date again. Until a video of him appeared on the website of Project Veritas, a right-wing group known for using covert recordings to embarrass political opponents. Brady, who had posed as a politically liberal commercial real estate agent and recent transplant to the capital, was actually a Project Veritas operative with a hidden camera. The conversation — particularly the phrase 'gold bars' — has come to haunt Mr. Efron. Conservative media and Republicans immediately trumpeted those words as supposed evidence that the Biden administration had mishandled funds. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
New York Times
13-06-2025
- New York Times
Building Things Together Became Their ‘Love Language'
The police broke up the party where David Van Fleet Bloys and Joseph Justin Whited first met in June 2012. But that was the only breakup the two would experience. The get-together was in Georgetown at the private home of a Washington lobbyist. Zach Robbins, the lobbyist's assistant and a mutual friend of Mr. Bloys and Mr. Whited, managed the guest list and told Mr. Bloys there was someone he wanted him to meet. Mr. Whited was unaware of this matchmaking plan. 'I came with my roommate,' he said. This was no frat party. Guests were mostly 'post grads and lobbyists,' said Mr. Bloys, who goes by Van. Nevertheless, a neighbor called the police to complain about the noise. So, although the two connected, they didn't exchange numbers. Luckily, they bumped into each other not once, but twice at the Penthouse Pool & Lounge, a private club in the U Street corridor of Washington. At the second chance meeting, in early July, Mr. Whited recalled thinking, 'There's that hot guy from the party. Should I go say hi?' The two exchanged phone numbers and social media handles that day. 'Once we got connected, we quickly got to texting,' Mr. Bloys said. Their first date was a few days later: dinner at a neighborhood wine bar called Cork. 'It was nice to be one on one after meeting at a big party, and we hit it off immediately,' Mr. Bloys said. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
