Furious fashionistas accuse ethical designer brand Reformation of cultural appropriation over 'South Asian-inspired' collection promoted by white influencer

Daily Mail​

22-04-2025

A sustainable clothing brand has been accused of cultural appropriation over a new collection which collaborates with an American influencer.
US-based brand Reformation, which is loved by celebrities and influencers, has been on the receiving end of a slew of online criticism after its new capsule collection, in collaboration with influencer Devon Lee Carlson, was unveiled.
Introducing the 20-piece collection, which was released at the end of March, the influencer said it was inspired by her own wardrobe.
Revealing the launch on social media, Reformation, which bills itself as an ethical brand dedicated to sustainability, shared an Instagram post of Carlson modelling the collection, dubbing it 'a girl's best friend'.
However, the outfit featured in the post - a baby blue midi skirt paired with a flowy camisole and a delicate scarf - sparked fierce backlash, with viewers accusing the brand of 'stealing' and 'appropriating' South Asian culture.
Several fashion fans from South Asian communities pointed to the outfit's similarities to a lehenga choli, a traditional Indian garment that dates back to as early as 2800BC.
Critics say the Reformation look, which costs around $400 (£300) mimics the style of a lehenga choli, which likewise consists of a skirt, blouse and scarf.
The collection is described on Reformation's website as 'inspired' by Carlson's style and is made using sustainable materials.
Writing on Instagram, dozens of fans criticised the brand for 'appropriating' without acknowledging the South Asian fashion they claim inspired it.
Commenting underneath the post, one wrote: 'Not you appropriating south Asian culture without even collaborating with a south Asian creator? Crazy work.'
Another wrote: 'This is so upsetting and disappointing. I used to love the brand so much. But this lack of acknowledgement is so annoying. It is South Asian. Stop stealing.
'Scandinavian-inspired look which is a copy of a Sharara. Give credit where it's due- South Asian Fashion has a rich history that deserves recognition.
'White people stealing from other cultures and not giving their due credits? Seems like I've heard this before! These brands and people have absolutely no shame!'
On TikTok too, people expressed their disdain for the collection.
Sai Ananda, an actress based in Manhattan, took to the app to share a side-by-side comparison of the Reformation three-piece outfit and a Bollywood actress wearing a lehenga.
In the video, which gathered 16,000 likes, the actress noted there were 'a lot of similarities' to the brand's new collection.
On Instagram, dozens criticised the brand for 'appropriating' without acknowledging the South Asian fashion they claim inspired it
Speaking to The New York Times, the creator said: 'I'm pretty sure if I dig deep enough, I can find pictures of me and my friends from back in the early 2000s wearing something very similar on a playground at the temple.'
'It's completely fine to be inspired by different cultures but I think there's a level of respect that is required so you're not erasing the cultural background.'
In an interview with Forbes, Carlson claimed the collection is comprised of recreations of items from her own personal collection.
Carlson, a model and business owner, famous for co-founding phone case company Wildflower Cases, has previously worked for designer brands including Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton.
She insisted that the three-piece outfit in question was a take on a vintage dress by the British designer John Galliano that was gifted to her by her boyfriend's mother.
She told the publication: 'It's one of the few pieces in my closet that is too precious to share so I worked with Ref to design a two piece set inspired by it.'
Writing on its website, Reformation described the collection: 'You probably want to be best friends with Devon Lee Carlson. Who doesn't.
'We can't make that happen, but we did have her design this collection for you, which is kind of the next best thing. Inspired by her personal style, all made with sustainable materials like organic cotton, TENCEL® lyocell, and deadstock fabrics that divert waste.
In response sent to The New York Times by Reformation, a spokesperson said the brand respects 'the origin of this criticism given South Asian culture's influence on Western style' and said that 'no item of clothing or trend can be considered in isolation without broader historical and cultural precedent.'
Despite reports of 'appropriation' from number of publications including the New York Times, the brand has continued to promote the collection on social media - including the three-piece in question, said to be inspired by the lehenga choli.
A recent post from the brand included pictures of Carlson from the launch party in which she is seen wearing the controversial ensemble.