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Times
4 hours ago
- Times
My epic cross-Africa train ride to the Victoria Falls
So there's me and all these rich folks sitting in fancy dining cars — drinking coffee and smoking big cigars — and yet the landscapes we're crossing are among the poorest on the planet. Today we're lunching on springbok loin with wilted spinach and plum jus, accompanied by a nagging awareness of social imbalance. 'Everybody waves,' my American dining companion notes. 'These people, who have so little, seem so joyful.' That starts a debate on the false relationship between wealth and happiness, and it passes the time until the liqueurs arrive. We're in Botswana now, after a mildly dramatic border crossing in which a young official, whose demand for a 'special payment' had been refused, forced all 53 guests to carry their luggage to a disinfection station and wash their shoes before being allowed into the country. 'Like refugees,' a prickly British guest mutters, but Botswana, it seems, is a thorny nation. The route north from Gaborone, across the Tropic of Capricorn, is basically a 490-mile journey through a hedge. The thickets of mopane and wait-a-while thorn are so dense that they scratch the train as it passes, and the only hints of human habitation are the dusty footpaths crossing the line. • Read part one of Chris Haslam's Rovos rail trip here The absence of wildlife surprises many guests, but that's a recent development. When David Livingstone came this way in 1849, he saw lions, buffaloes, hyenas, rhinoceroses and herds of elephants so great that the Batswana people fenced cattle pens with tusks. In his Victorian bestseller Missionary Travels he also mentions how this was 'a region of terror' due to 'the numbers of serpents which infested it'. The snakes are still there, but there's room no more for other beasts. Africa's human population has grown from about 140 million in 1925 to 1.4 billion in 2025 — and all those people need room to live. Consequently habitat has shrunk and the vast majority of Africa's so-called wildlife is restricted to about 7,800 protected areas (PAs), covering roughly 17 per cent of Africa's land surface. Many of these are badly managed, underfunded and of little conservation value; a recent report by the African Parks Network identified just 162 playing an 'outsized role' in biodiversity protection. But for better or for worse, the African species tourists expect to see roaming wild are now confined to PAs, like zoo animals. • More luxury train journeys The line we're following north is a rusting legacy of the scramble for Africa. A single track takes the shortest route across Botswana to Zimbabwe — the African equivalent to the Somerset section of the M5, taking travellers across a place where no one wants to stop to destinations where they do. The 400-mile line between Francistown and Plumtree opened in November 1897. It was built in just 400 days, and you can tell. The train rocks and rolls like a trawler in an Atlantic storm, and from up in the cab you can see why. The railway stretches to the horizon like a straight line drawn by a drunk, with more kinks than a Conservative Party conference. 'I'm authorised to do 30km/h [18mph] but I don't go much above 25km/h,' says the driver Wikus Meingies. 'Otherwise the guests spill their wine.' Or fall out of bed. At times the dream of being rocked to sleep is only true if you imagine it's Motörhead doing the rocking. Hence the need for the 3,848 bottles of wine on board. Plumtree is the Zimbabwean border, so we stop to get our passports stamped. Kids in smart green uniforms wave as they walk to school, then wave again as they head home for lunch. Zimbabwean immigration is taking its own sweet time, but no one's bothered. As I sit writing in the observation car, I can see guests jogging, shopping, trainspotting and chewing the fat with Plumtree's residents. Most visitors to Africa come on safari. They fly into the bush and stay in luxury lodges where the only Africans they meet are driving the vehicles, mixing the drinks or cleaning the rooms. Here, guests see the continent at its poorest, ugliest, friendliest and most beautiful, and all at 15mph. This is slow travel at its finest. • Europe's best rail journeys The next day we roll into Victoria Falls. We've seen the Mosi-oa-Tunya — or 'the smoke that thunders' — from ten miles southeast, rising in great rolling plumes towards the tourist helicopters that buzz like wasps above the cataract. The winter rains have left the Zambezi high, and the falls are as magnificently terrifying as I've ever seen them. 'Imagine a river a mile broad, suddenly tumbling over a precipice 400 feet deep,' the British hunter Frederick Selous wrote in 1874, 'and perhaps from these naked facts [one] may picture how grand a sight must be the Victoria Falls.' As tourists watch from the 16 viewpoints on the cliffs opposite in the Victoria Falls National Park (No 5 is the best), they're chilled as much by a sense of mortality as the spray. We're staying the night at the Victoria Falls Hotel, which has offered Edwardian elegance, pith-helmeted porters and unbeatable views of the Victoria Falls Bridge since 1904. • Explore our guide to Africa Stanley's Bar in the hotel is one of the world's greats, and the following day, when I find myself in a climbing harness and a safety line on a catwalk beneath that bridge, the roar, the spray, the rainbows and the miracle of engineering to which I cling prove a swift and effective hangover cure. Cecil Rhodes's unfulfilled dream of a railway running from Cairo to the Cape was detailed enough that he specified the Zambezi bridge should be close enough to the Falls that carriages would be soaked by the spray as they crossed. The design job fell to the Leeds-born George Hobson. His measurements — made with chains, tapes and theodolites — and his hand-drawn plans were sent to the Cleveland Bridge & Engineering Company in Darlington, where the components were fabricated, shipped to Beira in Mozambique and then brought by rail to Victoria Falls like a full-scale Meccano set. It was perhaps not surprising, then, that when the builders tried to join the north and south sections, they overlapped by 1¼ inches. But as the construction crew — described by one diarist as 'the most extraordinary collection of cosmopolitan toughs I have encountered anywhere' — drowned their disappointment in the bar at the Vic Falls Hotel, the steel cooled and contracted, and the next morning the bolt holes aligned. As I emerge from the dark side, the train is waiting on the bridge, dripping from the spray. There's time for a final glimpse of the smoke that thunders, then the diesels rev and we enter Haslam was a guest of Distant Journeys, which has 20 nights on the Grand African Rail Journey— with 13 all-inclusive onboard, three all-inclusive in a hotel or lodge and two B&B in hotels — from £12,995pp, including flights (
Daily Mail
7 hours ago
- Daily Mail
I lived inside an airport for a whole week - here's what shocked me the most
A woman lived inside an airport for a whole week and has revealed all about her stay. Maddy Macrae, 32, spent an extra-long 'layover' in Changi Airport, Singapore, and has shared her experience The Aussie stayed at Crowne Plaza, which can be found inside Terminal 3, and spent her days exploring the huge airport. 'I just touched down in Changi Airport to start my week-long layover and this is the most insane airport,' Maddy gushed in a vi deo on TikTok, where she posts as @maddy_macrae_. In the video, she pays a visit to the HSBC Rain Vortex inside the Jewel complex of the airport, an impressive 40 metres of cascading water. 'My first stop was the Jewel to see the waterfall – absolutely breathtaking. It's also a huge mall so I had a quick walk through before grabbing a milk tea and hopping on a skytrain to get to my hotel,' she adds. The content creator even had access to a swimming pool from her airport hotel, complete with palm trees and sun loungers. 'The pool is right next to my room and this is just insane it's here for a layover,' Maddy comments. Maddy made time for a couple of cocktails and checked out the departure board artwork. 'And then I made some new friends in a game of griddy grid,' she says, alongside footage of her playing a giant, interactive game. 'I checked out this cool orchid display for Singapore's 60th anniversary,' Maddy adds. She opened up about her experience to and revealed she was shocked to learn there were outside tours offered by the airport for free. Maddy explained: 'I did do a free tour which took me to the river and Marina Bay. 'It's actually available to people who haven't even cleared immigration. You can be on the airport side and have a long layover and go on this free tour.' Tourists with long layovers were able to do the trips. She said: 'If you're in the arrival side and haven't come through you can still do it.' But the strangest thing Maddy noticed was how it felt like 'time doesn't exist'. 'The phenomenon around airport limbo exists even when you live there,' she said. The content creator described how 'time is a construct' in the airport and it's perfectly acceptable to enjoy a cocktail at 7am. Maddy explained the stay was a 'social experiment' and revealed she spent $50 a day whilst in the airport.
The Sun
9 hours ago
- The Sun
Scots dad drowns on horror boat trip during family holiday in Turkey
A DAD has tragically died on a boat trip during a family holiday to Turkey. John Nelson is understood to have drowned last month off the coast of Turnuc, near the popular resort town of Marmaris. 3 3 3 The 47-year-old, from Arbroath, passed away on July 31 and his family has been left devastated. He was enjoying a sunshine break with his son Josh and partner Sharon Stuart when he tragically lost his life. It is understood local police in the Turnuc area have launched a probe following John's death. Taking to social media, Sharon wrote: "Totally heartbroken to announce the passing of Josh's dad, John Nelson, whose life was tragically taken away at sea during our first family holiday in Turkey. "We are lost for words and totally devastated. John had turned his life around for the better. "We were so proud of him. We're just so grateful he got the chance to spend this last time on holiday with Josh, living his best life. "Our life will never be the same without him. We will always love you forever." Josh also paid tribute to his father and hailed him as his "role model and best friend". He has set up an online fundraiser to help his family as they prepare for John's funeral. Josh wrote: "My dad was my role model, my biggest supporter, and my best friend. We shared so many laughs, deep conversations, and special moments together. Miss Scotland reveals 'massive bang' after terrifying easyJet plane collision "Over the last few years, I watched him transform his health, overcome many obstacles, and push through some of life's biggest struggles. "He came out stronger, happier, and more full of life than ever before. He truly cherished every day he was given. "While we were away on a family holiday, his life was tragically taken in an accident at sea. It's a loss that has shaken my whole world and one I'm still struggling to put into words." He added: "My family and I are now facing the difficult task of arranging his funeral and covering the costs to give him the farewell he deserves. I've set up a fundraiser to help us during this heartbreaking time. "Any donation, no matter the amount, would mean the world to us. If you're unable to donate, sharing this would be an incredible help." His funeral will be held in Friockheim, Angus on August 27. The Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office has been contacted for comment.
