Amor Arenal hotel review: sleep in the shadows of a Costa Rican volcano
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Score 9/10Amor's 31 casitas are essentially chocolate-box cottages, crafted from at least six varieties of precious hardwood, with private terraces for peering up at Arenal's famous volcano. It's heaven for honeymooners — think cloud-soft beds heaped with cushions, heated whirlpools and strong, rainforest-view double-head showers — and also suits friends travelling together (some rooms have twin queen beds). Yoga mats, kettle bells, plates of sweet treats and even hair straighteners are welcome touches. Light sleepers might find the lack of curtains unnerving, but even if the dawn light doesn't wake you up the howler monkeys will certainly sound the alarm. Just be aware that while all casitas are volcano-facing, the encroaching rainforest conceals the view from some. Buggies can be called upon to whisk those staying in the furthest flung accommodation to the restaurant sweat-free.
Score 9/10The chefs are very selective with their produce, favouring organic, seasonal and regional ingredients. El Rancho, the main restaurant with a volcano-view terrace, infuses Latin American flavour into its dishes, though Mexico, Italy and Peru are well represented too. Breakfasts are hearty (think burritos bursting with fillings) but there are also lighter options: homemade pastries, fresh fruit and creamy oats. For something different, amble down the boardwalk from the restaurant (look out for resident red-eyed tree frogs) to La Jaranita Bar and Tico Grill where in-table barbecues are poised for socially grilling gallitos (soft corn tortillas). The hotel has a considered wine menu and a cocktail cart championing sugar cane-based guaro cacique concoctions. Foodies can also sign up for cookery demos, wine tasting and a chef's table dinner.
• Read our full guide to Costa Rica• Best places to visit in Costa Rica
Score 9/10It's hard to resist the allure of the gorgeously designed spa. Peeping between curtains of vines are sensual open-sided massage rooms, a thatched yoga shala and a meditation pavilion. It's rightfully popular, so worth booking a treatment before you come, though anyone can join the daily morning wellness classes focussing on yoga, meditation or sound therapy.
Two trails explore Amor's canyon, past waterfalls, bubbling streams and pristine rainforest, though you'll need a guide if you are tackling the more challenging route. The hotel also has a couple of spring-fed pools backed by trickling waterfalls, lipstick palms and ginger, and a very well equipped gym furnished with functional training and cardio equipment as well as free weights.
Score 9/10Arenal is Costa Rica's most photographed volcano and nothing but rainforest stands between Amor and this pointed peak (but don't worry, the volcano is currently 'resting'). This region is the country's undisputed adventure capital with treks, trails and aerial walkways leading through wildlife-dense rainforest, lakes for paddleboarding and meandering rivers for gentle floats or white-knuckle rafting — the accommodating hotel team can help craft you an itinerary. For a change of (culinary) scene, there are plenty of places to eat and drink in La Fortuna, a ten-minute drive away, along with shops selling souvenirs and supplies.
Price B&B doubles from £470Restaurant mains from £20Family-friendly over-13s onlyAccessible Y
Emma Boyle was a guest of Amor Arenal (amorarenal.com)
• Best places to see wildlife in Costa Rica• More great hotels in Costa Rica
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Follow the heritage trail to explore kampongs (villages), find relics of tribal history at the Borneo Cultures Museum and the Sarawak Cultural Village, and dine on Malaysian, Chinese and Indian dishes along the waterfront. Spare a moment after dark to wander across the pedestrian Darul Hana Bridge, illuminated by LED bulbs, to enjoy the view of the Sarawak River. Stay: The Ranee Boutique Suites ( double rooms from £61 per night) is a charming boutique hotel in Kuching steps from the Sarawak River; Riverside Majestic Hotel ( double rooms from £47 per night) with riverside views. How to do it How to get there There are several flight options from major UK cities to Kuala Lumpur. British Airways ( flies directly from London, while Qatar Airways ( and Singapore Airlines ( offer connecting flights from London, Manchester and Birmingham. From Kuala Lumpur, you can travel to Penang via trains, buses or domesticg flights, whereas Melaka is accessible via buses. Domestic flights to Sabah and Sarawak are available through AirAsia ( and Malaysia Airlines ( To access remote areas like Mulu, take MASwings ( a regional airline in East Malaysia, from major cities like Kota Kinabalu in Sabah or Kuching in Sarawak. How to get around The most convenient way to travel around is through Grab, a ride-sharing service similar to Uber. However, ride availability may be limited in remote areas in East Malaysia, so it's best to arrange a private transfer in advance. In Kuala Lumpur, the LRT and MRT trains connect to major attractions starting from £1 per trip. The intercity bus to Penang and Melaka from Kuala Lumpur costs around £5 to £15 per trip. When to go Malaysia is hot and humid with sudden rain showers all year around. The best months to visit are between May and August when warm weather is ideal for outdoor activities. When visiting Penang and Melaka, prepare for the rainy season between May to September when the south-west monsoon hits. Planning nature getaways and island hopping in East Malaysia? Expect heavy rainfall between November and February due to the north-east monsoon. What to book Sightseeing around Kuala Lumpur Ivy Holidays ( can arrange specialised day tours around Kuala Lumpur with visits to the twin towers and other historical landmarks. It also offers day trips to nearby cities like Melaka. Penang in a day Klook ( offers fuss-free day tours that cover various experiences like visiting Kek Lok Si and Penang Hill or exploring the heritage side of Georgetown on a traditional trishaw. Nature adventures in Sabah and Sarawak Amazing Borneo ( has half-day or multi-day tours in Sabah and Sarawak. For Sabah, they offer packages to Kinabalu Park or for a Kinabatangan River Cruise. Mount Kinabalu climbs must be booked in advance, but the tour company can handle the permits and arrangements. For Sarawak, you can find tours to Bako National Park, Sarawak Cultural Village and Semenggoh Orangutan Sanctuary. Insider tips Dress modestly when visiting a place of worship. Your clothing should cover your shoulders and knees as a form of respect. Bring a scarf or shawl in case you need to cover up. Taxis are notorious for overcharging tourists, especially in cities like Kuala Lumpur. Use Grab, a ride-sharing service to get around or look up the rates before hopping on a metered taxi. Hawker centres and kopitiams (local coffee shops) are great to enjoy a variety of – extremely affordable – food in one sitting. No tipping is necessary because service charges are included in the bill.
