Southern Turkey's Hatay cuisine: how a Mediterranean hub on the Silk Road gave birth to 600 dishes
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Settled since at least the early Bronze Age, the region has been controlled by the Akkadians, the Hurrians, the Assyrians, the Macedonians, the Byzantines and the Ottomans, among others. The province's capital, Antakya – known in Roman and medieval times as Antioch – was built by one of Alexander the Great's generals around 300BC, becoming one of the largest cities in the Greco-Roman world. The word 'Christian' was even coined here, according to the New Testament, Paul (formerly Saul) having taught in Antioch and used the city as a base for his missionary journeys.
Ancient mosaic from Hatay, Turkey.
Antakya's role as a mercantile hub over centuries – it was a gateway on the Silk Road to the Mediterranean – meant it welcomed many nationalities. Hatay was incorporated into the Turkish Republic as recently as 1939, with a large Arab population who speak Levantine Arabic and Turkish, and a multireligious community of Muslims, Christians and Jews. This diversity is also evident in the cuisine of the region – a blend of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Anatolian flavours and ingredients.
The terrain of Hatay province is varied. 'Having a vast plateau, the Amanus [Nur] Mountains and the Mediterranean, the high and low altitudes give us the opportunity to grow our own produce,' says Antakya native Maksut , chef-owner of Neolokal, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Istanbul. Vineyards, spices, herbs, olives, figs, oranges, lemons, legumes and vegetables abound in this mild climate and fertile soil. This bounty features in Hatay's rich cuisine, with its more than 600 unique dishes. This led the province – which is also a metropolitan municipality – to be named a City of Gastronomy in 2017 within the Unesco Creative Cities Network.
Antakya native Maksut Aşkar, chef-owner of Neolokal, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Istanbul. Photo: Handout
'The food in Antakya is bold. It's one of the few places that nails the balance between acidity, spiciness and richness,' says Istanbul-born chef Mina Güçlüer, who helms acclaimed restaurant Belon in Hong Kong. 'Despite appearing hearty, the dishes never feel heavy. They achieve a distinct acidity that adds complexity while keeping things light and refreshing.'
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Southern Turkey's Hatay cuisine: how a Mediterranean hub on the Silk Road gave birth to 600 dishes
Sandwiched between the Mediterranean Sea and the northwestern corner of Syria is Turkey's southernmost province, Hatay, a region known for its beauty, cultural diversity, storied past and distinctive cuisine. Advertisement Settled since at least the early Bronze Age, the region has been controlled by the Akkadians, the Hurrians, the Assyrians, the Macedonians, the Byzantines and the Ottomans, among others. The province's capital, Antakya – known in Roman and medieval times as Antioch – was built by one of Alexander the Great's generals around 300BC, becoming one of the largest cities in the Greco-Roman world. The word 'Christian' was even coined here, according to the New Testament, Paul (formerly Saul) having taught in Antioch and used the city as a base for his missionary journeys. Ancient mosaic from Hatay, Turkey. Antakya's role as a mercantile hub over centuries – it was a gateway on the Silk Road to the Mediterranean – meant it welcomed many nationalities. Hatay was incorporated into the Turkish Republic as recently as 1939, with a large Arab population who speak Levantine Arabic and Turkish, and a multireligious community of Muslims, Christians and Jews. This diversity is also evident in the cuisine of the region – a blend of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Anatolian flavours and ingredients. The terrain of Hatay province is varied. 'Having a vast plateau, the Amanus [Nur] Mountains and the Mediterranean, the high and low altitudes give us the opportunity to grow our own produce,' says Antakya native Maksut , chef-owner of Neolokal, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Istanbul. Vineyards, spices, herbs, olives, figs, oranges, lemons, legumes and vegetables abound in this mild climate and fertile soil. This bounty features in Hatay's rich cuisine, with its more than 600 unique dishes. This led the province – which is also a metropolitan municipality – to be named a City of Gastronomy in 2017 within the Unesco Creative Cities Network. Antakya native Maksut Aşkar, chef-owner of Neolokal, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Istanbul. Photo: Handout 'The food in Antakya is bold. It's one of the few places that nails the balance between acidity, spiciness and richness,' says Istanbul-born chef Mina Güçlüer, who helms acclaimed restaurant Belon in Hong Kong. 'Despite appearing hearty, the dishes never feel heavy. They achieve a distinct acidity that adds complexity while keeping things light and refreshing.'
