This famed Paris restaurant was booked out. But I had a secret weapon

The Age

6 days ago

An admittedly smug Instagram video – the view from my hotel's ninth-floor rooftop terrace, complete with ravishing Eiffel Tower and peachy sunset backdrop – caught the attention of a trusted foodie friend back in Sydney.
His words cut through my inbox like a Michelin-star chef's knife: 'This hotel has the BEST fixer.' A screenshot of the concierge's WhatsApp details followed, with a message urging me to reach out to a chap named Erwin if I have any spare meal slots.
Spare meal slots? In Paris? The cheek of it. But the word 'fixer' had my attention. Was my dining itinerary in need of a zhuzh? It was time to revisit my gastronomic wishlist and check in with this Erwin fellow.
The hotel's stellar record was easy to verify; a string of positive online reviews cite long, personalised lists of restaurants and tenacious checking for cancellations. Some claims were quite extraordinary; an offer to babysit as one couple duck out to nearby Musee Cluny.
It's true not all concierges are so stellar. Some accept kickbacks. Some nudge you towards places that would only appeal to the most buttoned-up guest (our tip for gleaning quality recommendations? Head to a popular bar and ask cool-looking staff for their favourite spots).
But the role of the concierge is evolving with the times, according to Erwin, concierge at Hotel Dame des Arts. 'The world has changed and so have people's expectations ... genuine hospitality starts with listening.'
So, I start talking. All cards on the table. I'm frank: just how slim are our chances of getting a table at Septime? The last time we visited, Septime had been our white whale. Now, back again, we're willing to take any day – any time slot.
He listens intently. I study his face; his brow is furrowed. He'll see what he can do – no promises, is the brisk response. 'I should be able to let you know by Tuesday,' he says, already looking slightly stressed.
In the meantime, he makes quick work of another dining request; Racines, an elegant and very popular Italian bistro tucked in the historic Passage des Panoramas arcade. It's also fully booked but, mysteriously, he secures a lunch reservation for our group of four within 24 hours.
We're delighted as staff lead us upstairs to a cosy private dining room, charmingly decorated with granny-style crystal pendant lights and mismatched dinner plates. Two hours zip by in a blur of excellent wine, fresh antipasto and rustic pastas; I thank him via a WhatsApp text. 'My pleasure, you were lucky to get this reservation at the last minute,' he responds.
Over a few indulgent days, we enjoy many more meals that aren't (but ought to be) on my radar, guided by Erwin and his team. Sublime drops and decadent sweetbreads at atmospheric Parcelles in the Marais; freshly shucked oysters and champagne at Le Mary Celeste; martinis and gildas at lavishly appointed five-storey cocktail bar, Cravan; a sumptuous picnic spread on the Seine, catered and set up by the hotel.
The next message I receive from Erwin is the one we've been waiting for, and it comes a day earlier than expected. 'Check your email,' he writes. Sure enough, Septime is confirmed for the following evening. What sort of concierge wizardry gets you a booking at one of the world's best restaurants at a day's notice?
Later he would explain how he had sent a staff member out to the restaurant to check for us, in person. I feel a flush of guilt at the admission, though I also sense his pride at having solved the grand puzzle.
'In cases like this, it's about reaching out to someone I know well – someone who understands that when we call, it's because it really matters,' he says. 'It's a combination of preparation, persistence and trust. And of course, a little Parisian magic.'
It feels serendipitous that my induction into the world of concierges should happen in Paris. Like many things truly excellent and a little bit fancy, the lineage of the concierge can be traced back to France – the word derives from the French comte des cierges (literally 'count of the candles'). Over centuries, as candle-lit castles gave way to grand hotels, the role evolved to 'keeper of the keys' – in reference to the literal guest room keys and, increasingly, metaphorical keys to the city.
When a concierge works their magic for a table at Septime, they're tapping into a centuries-old legacy of French tradition, built on trust and a deep understanding of the city. You could say Erwin's a modern-day comte des cierges, still lighting the way for travellers, only now, instead of a candlelit path to bed, he's pointing us towards a veloute with truffle oil. And honestly, I prefer the veloute.
The details
Eat
Septime, 80 Rue de Charonne. See septime-charonne.fr
Racines Paris, 8 Passage des Panoramas. Phone: [phone]. See racinesparis.com/en
Parcelles, 13 Rue Chapon. Phone: [phone]. See parcelles-paris.fr
Le Mary Celeste, 1 Rue Commines. See lemaryceleste.com
Cravan Paris, 165 Boulevard Saint-Germain. Phone: [phone]. See cravanparis.com/en
Gourmet picnic experiences can be arranged for guests of Hotel Dame des Arts. See damedesarts.com
Stay
Hotel Dame des Arts in the Rive Gauche has modern rooms and suites, an all-day restaurant Pimpan, a cracking seasonal rooftop terrace bar with Eiffel Tower views, and is ideally placed to explore Boulevard Saint-Germain and the historic sights of the Latin Quarter. From $620 (€350) a night. 4 Rue Danton, 75006 Paris. See damedesarts.com