12 reasons why Newtown is the tastiest suburb in Wellington

The Spinoff

3 days ago

A short tasting tour through the capital's most diverse and delicious neighbourhood.
I am not one for attention-grabbing superlatives or massive claims of excellence, but I reckon I know where 550 of the most interesting metres in Wellington are for food and drink: the corner of Constable Street and Riddiford Street in Newtown.
I am not quite sure why Newtown is such a magnetic suburb or why it is so divisive among some Wellingtonians. Perhaps it's something to do with the population's median age being nine years younger than that of wider Wellington, or that 35% of people who live there were born overseas. It's a thriving hub of culture, creativity and diaspora that feels truly international in a city that can sometimes feel so far away from the rest of the world.
Along these 550 metres are shops, cafes, restaurants and bars that speak to a side of this city that excites me in a way nowhere else comes close. There are, of course, so many more than below, but here's a list to get us going.
Mediterranean Foods Trattoria & Deli
Walk through the sliding glass doors, turn left and enter a cornucopia of all things southern European. There are shelves of pasta shapes you didn't even know existed. There are fridges stacked with imported cured meats and cheeses: lardo, mortadella, guanciale, aged pecorino romano. There are cans of pickled and preserved vegetables, jars of olives the size of a small car and even those breadsticks you get in bad Italian restaurants.
Newday Coffee
I spend far too much time here. The coffee service is knowledgeable and skilful, and there is a cabinet of exceptional pastries that always fill a gap. In a city doing incredibly well in the sandwich department right now, Newday stands out as one of the best. Fluffy, deep focaccia is filled generously with classic fillings done better than anyone strictly needs. It is such an important space where people from all different worlds are greeted like friends and sit side by side on the large communal tables outside watching it all go past.
Morteza Kebab and Bakery
Walk past Morteza in the early afternoon and you will see piles of fresh, warm flatbreads, the likes of which you have never seen before. There will be bowls of dough billowing onto the table and a whole family working to make some of the most impressive breads anywhere in the city. You can either buy them filled with meats and falafels cooked to order, laced with homemade pickles and hot sauce, or buy the breads alone for only $1.50 to take home and make a dinner around.
Indian Sweets & Snacks
I am not sure if there is another restaurant anywhere in the city that is quite like Indian Sweets & Snacks. I don't mean that in a hyperbolic, over-the-top kind of way. Rather, it is a restaurant that acknowledges the style of Indian restaurant New Zealanders have become used to, but then layers over the top a menu of traditional chaat and regional specialties you never otherwise get to see. The curries are excellent, but a table filled with bhel puri, paneer pakora and chat papri is something out of this world. Make sure to get a couple of packets of the homemade snacks for your next beer at home.
Sol Organic Coffeeshop
There is something so unexpected and exciting about a hole-in-the-wall-style place. Sol Organic Coffeeshop is one such tiny space; just big enough for the one person working behind the counter and two benches outside on the street to relax on. With an unrelenting focus on organic foods, it wears its heart on its sleeve and serves a range of delicious homemade treats alongside exceptional coffees.
Middle Eastern Market
I will often go to the Middle Eastern Market when I don't need anything and I am not hungry. The lack of urgency, purpose and hunger means I have real time to browse the shelves and make some plans. It could be that whole section dedicated to rose, cardamom and other waters for a special dessert soon. Maybe I'll finally take home that kilo can of roasted aubergines or the punnet of dried figs, the medjool dates or even the half-size shisha pipe.
Wellington Halal Meat
Not just a butcher, but a mini supermarket stacked high with imported goods to make dinners at home that little bit more legitimate. There is an entire aisle dedicated to spice blends and masalas, each more specific and interesting than the last. There are freezers full of difficult-to-find vegetables and about 20 varieties of pre-made parathas. Yes please.
Black Coffee
Black Coffee looks all intimidating and dark on the outside, but it is so warm and welcoming on the inside, just like all of my goth friends. Opened in 2014, this place is a real dark horse with truly world class coffee and monthly art exhibitions of both local and international artists. It is also the only place I know of in the city that does steamer-wand eggs. They take two eggs and use the steam normally reserved for milk to create something light and fluffy, all on two bits of toasted sourdough.
Margot and Next Door
There is no such thing as a perfect restaurant, but Tom Adams and Juno Miers at Margot are doing a pretty good job at proving that idea wrong. Seasonal small plates come out of the tiny kitchen that will often confound your understanding of what food can be. The 18-seater bar next door, appropriately named Next Door, is a treasure trove of interesting spirits, beers, wines and cocktails you are not going to find anywhere else.
Good Boy Sammies
Part sandwich shop, part satirical Instagram account. Last year, Good Boy graduated from the small hole-in-the wall now occupied by Sol, to an entire unit down by the hospital. The constantly changing specials mean there is always a reason to go back and see what they have dreamed up this week. Drifting seamlessly from updated classics to more original creations, they are always nothing less than excellent. Grab a cookie from the jar on the counter, too.
Newtown Greengrocer
The Harbourside Market is a brilliant experience, and so is the Newtown Market every Saturday. But often there is driving rain, overwhelming crowds and, to be honest, I have no idea what I am going to eat on Thursday. Newtown Greengrocer is open seven days a week and is bursting out onto the street with fresh, seasonal fruit and vegetables, often at the same price point as the weekend markets. They also do real fruit ice cream and have a great range of Indian snacks, spices and sundries at the back.
Chan's Eatery
Chan's is one of the true gems of this city. A family-run Chinese cafe making every last element from scratch. A broad menu takes in the absolute greatest hits of China and the surrounding countries: from a rich, red duck curry packed with meat and veges, to dumplings that are about as cute as you are ever likely to find. The half duck with rice, greens and cooking liquor is potentially the best-value plate of food in the city.