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Irish Times
22 minutes ago
- Business
- Irish Times
We're familiar with the evils of fast fashion. But is high fashion so much better?
When I was 22 all I wanted was a Chanel 2.55 bag. My desire was spawned in part by the TV show The OC, where teenagers paraded the halls of their high school with quilted bags draped over their bony shoulders. The other influence was Vogue; women quizzed on their essentials often name-checked the clutch for its timeless elegance. Back then, the bag retailed for about €1,500 – already aspirational. Today, the same bag costs €11,000. Why is the Chanel 2.55 so expensive? Is it because a) it takes time and skill to make? b) because it's rare?, or c) because the materials are so costly? Each quilted bag uses several metres of premium leather. It takes 18 hours for a skilled artisan to produce. Although the direct cost of production (materials and labour) is not made public, luxury analysts estimate a gross margin of 80-85 per cent for luxury bags. This doesn't include factory overheads, logistics, marketing and above all, the branding that makes the 2.55 not just a bag, but a cultural object. Western culture places a hefty premium on authenticity, and consumers are willing to pay a lot for 'the real thing', especially when it's exclusive. Not all cultures have the same baggage. In China, philosopher Byung-Chul Han argues, a good copy can rival – or even surpass – the original. So why is this bag so expensive? I'd wager the answer is d): the Chanel 2.55 isn't expensive because it's valuable; it's valuable because it's so expensive. Luxury handbags such as the 2.55 and the Hermès Birkin are the ultimate Veblen goods: as prices rise, so does demand. Some fashion houses (ahem – Burberry) have been known to destroy their stock rather than sell at a discount. READ MORE [ Jane Birkin's original Hermès handbag sells for record €8.6m at Paris auction Opens in new window ] But maybe we've hit the limit of this fiscal mindmelt. About five years ago, I stopped wanting a Chanel 2.55. I still think the bag is beautiful. But everything it once represented for me – timeless, long-lasting artistry – began to feel like a pale imitation. As Chanel bags have grown more expensive, craft hasn't kept pace. While pre-2008 the bag had 24-karat gold-plated hardware, the newer models have brass finishings that tarnish. Vintage editions had sturdier handles, thicker lambskin and higher stitch counts. Around the time Chanel prices began to soar, production also went through the roof. The result is a more expensive and, to my mind, poorer product. A Chanel bag on the runway at Paris Fashion Week: as Chanel bags have grown more expensive, craft hasn't kept pace. Photograph: PascalThe fate of the Chanel 2.55 is emblematic of what has happened to the fashion industry in the past decade. If luxury once meant a quality, ethically produced object, today it may just mean stupidly expensive. We're all familiar by now with the evils of fast fashion – ecologically devastating practices, quick churn, poor quality and exploitative labour costs. But is high fashion really so much better? A slew of recent news stories about alleged labour abuses by high-end Italian brands suggests not. 'People think 'Made in Italy' means you're getting a long-lasting craft item,' says Caoimhe Grant, a Dublin-based designer and founder of the handbag line, August Night. 'But real artisans can't produce at the speed luxury brands demand. If it's mass produced, how luxury is it?' Last week the luxury cashmere brand Loro Piana (a subsidiary of the LVMH group) was placed under court administration in Italy . The company is accused of exploitative labour in its production line. In Loro Piana's case, its main contractor outsourced to a Chinese subcontractor called Evergreen. A police search of the factory premises uncovered 10 Chinese migrant workers. These workers put in 90-hour weeks for €4 an hour, housed in illegal dorms on the premises. A Loro Piana wool coat can retail for €5,000. One factory owner claims the contractor was charged €118 per unit. Loro Piana is the fifth luxury brand – and the second LVMH-owned one, after Dior – to be investigated for alleged violation of Italian labour laws. How did this happen? In the past decade, Chinese workers emigrated en masse to Prato, a textile manufacturing hub in Tuscany. While most worked in fast fashion, some now work in the luxury manufacturing business. Chinese-owned workshops offered fast, flexible garment production that was still legally 'Made in Italy'. Today the practice has spread to Milan and Lombardy, the heart of Italian luxury. Companies such as Evergreen are Chinese-owned and staffed by Chinese immigrants, a shadow supply chain the consumer doesn't see. The internet only accelerated this demand for speed. Luxury brands, once operating on two collections a year, now produce up to six. The churn of novelty, the pressure to deliver product faster and cheaper – all while maintaining the illusion of Italian craftsmanship – has hollowed out the old idea of luxury. In 1955, a designer bag would have been a once-in-a-lifetime purchase, made to last a lifetime. Today, influencers say they're 'no longer reaching for' a bag bought last month. The recession trained customers to expect discounts; ecommerce platforms such as Net-a-Porter and Mytheresa squeezed brands with exclusives and RTS deals (where designers eat the loss when stock doesn't sell). [ Handbags at dawn: It was obvious I was not the typical Chanel customer Opens in new window ] It's not surprising then that many people are leaning towards circular fashion and resale. I've been devoted to eBay for 20 years. Some of my best buys: The Row trousers (€80) and a Margiela coat (€45). Others are leaning into luxury 'dupes' – counterfeit goods produced in China for a fraction of the cost. While the factory still has to pay for materials and labour, they get the brand for free. In the new world of mass luxury, a good copy might be just as 'good' – even better – than the cheaply made original. Reddit purse forums are hopping with details on where to find the best-made Chanel replicas. (187 Factory in Guangzhou is popular.) Maybe this is our sign to reject the logo game altogether and look for real luxury elsewhere — small, local, upcycled or direct-to-consumer brands that aren't caught in the hamster wheel of mass production. 'It's thoughtful, clever design, quality fabric, high-end, ethical production,' says Grant, who makes sculptural bags from fabrics such as silk, velvet and Irish linen. 'You can see the ideas, the work, and the story behind it. That's real luxury for me.'
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Travel + Leisure
2 days ago
- Lifestyle
- Travel + Leisure
13 Linen Clothes I'm Packing for a Month in France
After nearly 15 years of traveling around the South of France in the summer, there's one thing I tell everyone to pack for their own séjours: linen. Piles of it, preferably. It's the perfect fabric for surviving the scorching summers in a country where air conditioning and iced drinks can be hard to come by. The lightweight fiber's natural breathability and moisture-wicking properties are ideal for keeping cool, whether you're exploring the produce markets of Aix-en-Provence or the beach club scene in St. Tropez. Plus, linen clothes are supremely packable, given their soft shape and thinner weave, so you can fit weeks' worth of clothing into a small bag. I managed to pack a month's worth of clothes into my carry-on luggage for my upcoming trip, including several of the items on this list. Below, I've rounded up the best French-inspired linen finds at Amazon, several of which are currently on sale, up to 40 percent off. From ultra-versatile dresses to trendy two-piece sets, these breezy picks will help you channel the casual-yet-polished aesthetic that the French have mastered. Best Overall Picks Cider Linen Boat Neck Backless Top Amazon Boat neck tops are a timeless staple of French style, first popularized by Coco Chanel in the 1930s as a tribute to the French naval uniforms of the previous century. I love the backless, knotted design of this slightly-cropped top from Cider, which offers much-appreciated ventilation, particularly given France's aversion to air conditioning. The ties in the back add an elegant touch, and better yet, can be adjusted to find your perfect fit. As someone who prefers to go braless, I'm always looking for lightweight tops that aren't too sheer—this one delivers with breathable double lining in the front, even in the lighter colors. Given the affordable price point, I'm tempted to stock up on both the white and black versions, which I'm envisioning with high-waisted trousers and sandals for a breezy day-to-night look. Shy Velvet Linen Maxi Dress Amazon Minimalist, airy dresses like this linen maxi dress are the foundation of my summer wardrobe. I'll wear them over a swimsuit at the beach or with sneakers for a stroll through the morning market, then slip into heeled sandals and my Great Aunt's vintage jewelry for dinner in town. The breathable linen fabric is a lifesaver on hot days, yet has just enough weight to wear in shoulder seasons as well; on cooler evenings, this maxi dress looks great layered under a cropped sweater. It's available in a rainbow of 16 shades, all topped off with black contrast trim and travel-friendly details, like adjustable spaghetti straps and hidden side pockets. Faleave Cotton‑linen Palazzo Pants Amazon Linen pants are my airport uniform of choice in the summer, thanks to their laidback-yet-polished look and pajama-like comfort. These wide-leg pants are a perfect dupe for my favorite pair from Reformation—except you could buy numerous pairs of these for the low $30 price. (Tempting, given that they come in 15 colors, from neutral khaki to rosy pink.) The elastic waistband is easily adjustable, so you can comfortably indulge in the miracle that is the French cheese cart when dessert rolls around. Plus, deep side pockets offer plenty of space for storing your phone, keys, or sunglasses while you're out on the town. Anrabess Drawstring Linen Shorts Amazon A day trip to Calanques National Park is all but mandatory on a trip to Marseille, and these lightweight linen shorts are perfect for keeping cool while hiking down the limestone cliffs to the gleaming turquoise swimming holes below. Linen is naturally moisture-wicking and quick-drying, so it's a chic alternative for athleisure, which is generally frowned upon in France. They're available in 13 different summer-ready shades, including red-brown and classic navy. Idealsanxun Drawstring Linen Midi Skirt Amazon After spotting this calf-length linen skirt on sale, I immediately added the beige and black styles to my cart. I'll be living in this all summer long, pairing it with tank tops or wearing it over my favorite one-piece swimsuits so I can easily shimmy out of it for a quick swim between courses at Tuba Club, a dreamy seaside hotel and restaurant in Les Goudes. The skirt's elastic waistband and modest side slit ensure comfort and full range of movement, and there's even a silky lining for added coverage. Plus, as a petite traveler, I'm a sucker for bottoms I can toss in my suitcase without a trip to the tailor first, and this midi-length skirt is ultra-flattering. Idealsanxun Linen Cropped Tank Amazon For a full linen 'fit, the Idealsanxun skirt boasts a matching cropped tank that comes in 19 colors—and they're all on sale. It's a steal for the price, considering that you can wear it two ways: forwards for a more streamlined look or backwards to show off the chic button-down design (which is decorative rather than functional). Aeneontrue Linen Wide-leg Pants Amazon These ankle-length trousers offer a more sophisticated alternative to drawstring linen pants, thanks to a stylish button closure and flattering cropped fit. Luckily, they don't sacrifice comfort, as there's an elastic waistband on the back that makes them easy to pull on. Two side pockets offer a convenient place to stash small travel essentials as well, like hotel keys or earbuds. Just note that the lighter shades tend to be somewhat sheer. Anrabess Matching Linen Set Amazon It doesn't get more effortless than this trendy two-piece set, consisting of flowy palazzo pants and a square-neck tank that you can throw on for long travel days or afternoons of sightseeing. The boxy top looks just like my favorite linen tank from Reformation, with a slightly looser fit that allows for plenty of air flow on stuffy days. I love the versatility of matching sets, as you can maximize your outfit potential by wearing the pieces together or separately. I'd also pair the top with denim shorts or a silk midi skirt, while the pull-on pants—which feature a stretchy elastic waistband and two side pockets—would look great with a vintage scarf top. Given the low price point, you could even buy two colors (there are a whopping 17 vibrant hues available) to mix and match the tops and bottoms. Marie Mapis Linen Tote Bag Amazon Crafted from 100 percent French flax linen, this ultra-chic tote reminds me of a fabulous home goods shop in Marseille, Maison Empereur, where I picked up a handful of linen tote bags on my last visit. Soft yet sturdy, linen bags like this are durable enough to hold a laptop, books, and other travel essentials, yet they can be tucked into your pocket when empty. I carry one at all times while traveling, in case I pick up picnic supplies or souvenirs during the day and need a stylish, more sustainable bag to carry them in. Siliteelon Linen Button‑down Shirt Amazon Everyone should own at least one linen button-down shirt, especially if you're headed to France in the summertime, where it seems to be the uniform of choice. They're incredibly versatile, and this cotton-linen blend top comes in 23 different colors and sizes ranging from XS to 5X. Wear it open over a bathing suit or partially buttoned with high-waisted shorts or trousers. For a nostalgic twist, take a cue from Jean Seberg in Bonjour Tristesse and grab one in light blue, then tie a knot at your waist with the shirt ends. Chouyatou Adjustable Spaghetti Strap Midi Dress Amazon Flirty, feminine dresses like this midi style always wind up on constant repeat in my summer wardrobe, whether I'm visiting vineyards or lingering over a long lunch with friends. I'm all about sleeveless styles and breezy fits to avoid potential sweat stains, and this A-line dress delivers on both fronts. Plus, it has side pockets and adjustable straps (that can be tied in a sweet little bow) for added convenience. LNX Linen High-waisted Trousers Amazon Another irresistible option for my fellow linen pants lovers: these cropped trousers. I'm eyeing the adorable striped patterns, which give me classic beach club vibes. The elastic waistband and dual side pockets make these a great travel pant, especially given how easy they are to pack. Just note that this cotton-linen blend looks best after a quick steam to smooth out any creases. Idealsanxun Linen Blazer Amazon For a more elevated alternative to a button-down, a soft linen blazer adds structure and style to any outfit. Wear it over a mini dress or a tank top and wide-leg pants for an instant outfit upgrade, complete with two handy pockets for extra storage. I love the summery look of the three-quarter-length sleeves and the relaxed fit, which adds polish without looking too fancy. Love a great deal? Sign up for our T+L Recommends newsletter and we'll send you our favorite travel products each week.
News18
3 days ago
- Lifestyle
- News18
Which Language Gave The World 'Pyjama'?
Pyjamas, originating from Persian and South Asian roots, evolved from traditional loose garments to global sleepwear and now, to a stylish streetwear Clothing trends have certainly evolved over the years, yet one arm of fashion has remained steadfast: the pyjama. While renowned as a sleepwear staple, pyjamas have now crossed into everyday life, worn at home, at weddings, and even on the streets. Youth culture has embraced the concept wholeheartedly, with 'pyjama parties' becoming a global phenomenon. But where does this comforting garment get its name and what does it actually mean? From Persian Origins To South Asian Roots The term pajama, commonly linked with bedtime attire, originates from the Hindi/Urdu word paijama, which in turn derives from Persian. In Persian, 'paay' or 'pa' means 'foot', and 'jama' signifies 'cloth' or 'dress', so the literal meaning of 'pajama' is more akin to 'foot‑covering garment'. Historically, it referred to a loose‑fitting ensemble, typically made of cotton or silk, tied at the waist with a drawstring. Both men and women across India and Central Asia favoured this stitched form; distinct from the draped clothing predominant in South Asia at the time. Western Adoption: From 17th‑Century Goa To Victorian England According to a South China Morning Post report, Europeans in Asia adopted not only the garment but also its name. A French travelogue describes Portuguese settlers in Goa around 1610 who refused to sleep without wearing pyjamas. By the 17th century, the garment had made its way to England, referred to as 'Mughal breeches' and used as casual loungewear, although this fashion was short-lived. The first recorded English usage of the term occurred in 1801, in reference to the 'pyjamas or drawers' in Tipu Sultan's wardrobe. By 1854, it was common advice for European visitors to British India to wear pajamas for afternoon naps, praised for their comfort and familiarity. Pajamas Become Standard Sleepwear During the Victorian era, around 1870, pyjamas began to replace the traditional nightdress for men in England and across Europe, becoming a widely accepted form of sleepwear. Over time, the term evolved into various colloquial forms: PJs, jammies, and jim‑jams, with 'jim‑jams' often used playfully to denote sleeplessness. From Beachwear To Streetwear: A Modern Reinvention In the 1920s, fashion icon Coco Chanel introduced the concept of the 'beach pyjama', a stylish loungewear look designed for seaside leisure. Fast-forward to the 2000s, and pajamas made a notable fashion comeback, sparking the trend of 'sleepwear as streetwear', where silky sets became fashionable attire beyond the bedroom. The journey of the pajama is one of cultural exchanges and evolving fashion norms, from a practical garment in Persian and South Asian homes to an international icon in both sleepwear and street style. What began as simple comfortable clothing has now become a global fashion staple. view comments First Published: July 18, 2025, 15:32 IST Disclaimer: Comments reflect users' views, not News18's. Please keep discussions respectful and constructive. Abusive, defamatory, or illegal comments will be removed. News18 may disable any comment at its discretion. By posting, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.
Hamilton Spectator
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Hamilton Spectator
Chanel marks 110 years with style - and stars - by supersizing its couture salon in a palace
PARIS (AP) — Only Chanel would call its legendary Rue Cambon salon 'too small' — then rebuild it, supersized, in a palace. On Tuesday, as the house marked 110 years of its haute couture — a century and more of Coco Chanel's revolution in how women dress — it blew up its atelier as a giant set inside the freshly restored Grand Palais, turning intimacy into spectacle for a nature-drenched show at Paris Couture Week . Chanel, whose founder banished corsets and reimagined luxury as liberation, showed just how far that legacy stretches — from the tiny salons of 1915 to its modern colossus. It was a flex only a handful of luxury giants could pull off — and perhaps, as one front-row guest suggested, a dazzling distraction as the fashion world counts down to the debut of Chanel's new designer Matthieu Blazy . Penélope Cruz, Keira Knightley, Naomi Campbell, Kirsten Dunst and the house's tightest VIP circle scaled gilded steps, sweating past marble and gold, to enter the reconstructed atelier. The set by Willo Perron was classic Chanel — intimate yet monumental, Old World yet futuristic. 'It just felt special,' Campbell said, 'like stepping into a memory and something completely new. There's warmth, intimacy, nostalgia. Chanel can recreate anything, and it works.' Chanel goes country More drama unfolded on the runway. This was couture as nature fantasy, filtered through the Chanel prism. Menswear tailoring added swing to sculpted jackets and coatdresses, while mohair suits in deep greens and plums channeled autumn's hush. Bouclé tweeds mimicked sheepskin; feathers and tweed created illusionary faux fur. Gold-sprayed wheat ears — the house symbol of abundance — were everywhere: stitched into flounces, embroidered on necklines, set on every guest's seat. The theme may have been country, but make no mistake: This was as close as Chanel gets to 'roughing it.' Technique dazzled at every turn: jewel-buttons, embroidered florals and a finale of lamé so luminous it mimicked sunlight on harvest fields. The studio team, holding the fort after Virginie Viard's abrupt and unceremonious exit last year, anchored the show in classic codes but played with wit and lightness. That obsessive handwork matters — not just for tradition, but for business. Chanel is fashion's juggernaut: Privately held, the brand reported $18.7 billion in revenue for 2024, cementing its status as one of the world's most powerful luxury houses. Couture may be the crown, but its influence drives global sales in fragrance, bags and jewelry, making it the envy of rivals. New era for the luxury giant Change is always looming at Chanel. For more than 30 years, Karl Lagerfeld transformed the brand from Parisian legend to pop phenomenon, staging ever-grander spectacles at the Grand Palais. After his death in 2019 , Viard, his longtime deputy, guided Chanel into a softer, more discreet era. Now the industry is holding its breath for Blazy, a Belgian talent with stints at Margiela, Celine and most recently Bottega Veneta, where he won fans for his blend of innovation and reverence for craft. Campbell said of Blazy, whom she knows personally: 'He's focused, open-minded — he'll bring something special.' Tuesday's show unfolded inside the Grand Palais' newly restored Salon d'Honneur, its gold and stone revealed after a 600-million-euro, multiyear restoration co-funded by Chanel. It's more than a venue; it's an advertisement of the house's power and commitment to Parisian heritage.
Business Times
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Business Times
Pretty things you'd want to wear: Fine jewellery picks from Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Cartier and more
[SINGAPORE] Most of us have a favourite piece of jewellery that we instinctively reach for when dressing up. If not, then you can be sure there is something from the latest fine jewellery selections coming out of luxury brands to tempt you. Whether it's Louis Vuitton's iconic Monogram or Chanel's famous quilted pattern, these are pieces that can work day or night, and carry you through the work week to the weekend. Here are some of our favourites: Louis Vuitton The six new pieces in the Idylle Blossom collection include long necklaces and rings. PHOTO: LOUIS VUITTON If you're a fan of the French luxury label, you'll be a fan of its delicate Idylle Blossom collection. Recently, six new creations have been added to the range, which showcases the maison's signature Monogram pattern blending flower motifs with its LV initials. These very pretty pieces include two long necklaces, three bracelets and a ring in pink or white gold with diamonds. While the necklaces and bracelets are refined and fluid, falling ever so delicately on the skin, the rings – crowned with four petals – are subtle yet unmistakably Louis Vuitton. This is jewellery for wearing all day, every day. Chanel Coco earrings in white and beige gold with diamonds. PHOTO: CHANEL The instantly recognisable quilting pattern beloved by the maison's founder, Coco Chanel, is the motif of choice in the Coco Crush collection. Known for its modern aesthetic that marries sharp lines with rounded shapes to convey both strength and femininity, the jewellery line has been joined by several new pieces this year. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Coco Crush bracelet in beige gold with or without diamonds. PHOTO: CHANEL Of particular note are earrings in completely new designs. One highlight features a pair of quilted hoops in white gold joined to another in beige gold as a single diamond dangles from where they connect. Look out too, for Coco Crush's bracelets in a new, diamond pave style, including one that is completely covered in the precious gem. All that's left to do? Mix and match these beauties as you deem fit. Bvlgari Making their debut this month are new additions to the Diva's Dream collection, including this pendant in yellow gold with black onyx and diamonds. PHOTO: BVLGARI A single earring in rose gold with carnelian and diamonds. PHOTO: BVLGARI The start of July also sees the addition of seven novelties to the Italian jeweller's Divas' Dream collection. Their utterly feminine, fan-shaped silhouettes now come in a new, vibrant yellow gold hue. Our top picks include a pendant necklace and stud earrings set where black onyx and diamonds are perfectly contrasted against the brilliance of yellow gold. But fret not if black is not your thing. There's a pair of pendant earrings with mother-of-pearl and diamonds, while splashes of colour feature in single earrings carrying carnelian, malachite and turquoise with diamonds. Set against the soft tone of rose gold, they're ready to perk you up, night or day. Cartier Panthere de Cartier bracelet in rose gold with onyx, black lacquer and tsavorite garnets. PHOTO: CARTIER What's better than jewellery featuring the French maison's emblematic panther head? One that features two heads, of course. In its latest fine jewellery selection launched this month, Cartier's rings and bracelets wrap smoothly around fingers and wrists to meet as a pair of panther heads facing each other. Graphic and expressive, it's easy to imagine these powerful creatures – portrayed in yellow or white gold with black lacquer or onyx and diamonds – as no less than your personal guardians. Dior Diorigami necklace in pink gold with diamonds, lepidolite, opal, turquoise, agate, chrysoprase, mother-of-pearl and pink lacquer. PHOTO: DIOR A playful yet precious garden. That's how Dior describes its new Diorigami jewellery set and we couldn't agree more. As its name suggests, the necklace and earrings were conceived as a tribute to the Japanese art of paper folding, with ornamental stones in graphic shapes and pastel colours giving them an almost toy-like appearance. Except, of course, these 'playthings' are also sumptuous and display a careful harmony of ornamental gems, diamonds and lacquer. Van Cleef & Arpels Perlee Couleurs bracelet in yellow gold with turquoise and diamonds. PHOTO: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Perlee Couleurs between-the-finger ring in yellow gold with turquoise and diamonds. PHOTO: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Perlee is one of the French jeweller's most distinctive designs, and when combined with colourful stones, they make up the wonderfully optimistic world of Perlee Couleurs. In this collection, cabochons of hard stones are encircled by a border of dainty golden beads. The latest material to join the family? Turquoise, which makes for a striking colour on one end of a bracelet and between-the-finger ring, while the other end is topped off with diamonds. Chaumet The new Jeux de Liens pendant in rose gold featuring all the colours of the rainbow. PHOTO: CHAUMET Happy hues are the priority over at the French jewellery-maker, whose focal piece is a new Jeux de Liens ('play of links') pendant in rose gold featuring all the colours of the rainbow. This calls for garnet, spessartite garnet, mandarin garnet, tsavorite garnet, citrine, peridot, sapphire, amethyst, pink sapphire and diamonds to sit together and exude nothing but pure joy. You would too, if you're wearing this lovely little piece. Pomellato The new Mini Nudo collection features Pomellato's signature 57-facet cut but on a more intimate scale. PHOTO: POMELLATO Nudo is the Italian jeweller's most iconic creation and its new Mini Nudo collection reflects the fun and energetic spirit of the design. The stone's signature 57-facet cut is delivered on a more intimate scale, with the pieces especially suited for stacking and combining with other Nudo pieces.
