The luxury hotel blazing a trail to a new, smarter Costa del Sol

Times

10-05-2025

Tell a Spaniard that you are going to Sotogrande, and they will probably ask 'which course?'. But, if there's one thing I have discovered over the past few days, it's that there's more to this quiet corner of southern Spain than golf.I am on the Costa del Sol but not in Marbella, Estepona, Malaga, Torremolinos or anywhere that bears any resemblance to the overcrowded Spanish beach resorts we all know and love. Instead, I am halfway between Sotogrande and Gibraltar, in a town called San Roque, at the new Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol. This is an area favoured by golfers, polo players and, in summer, the who's who of Spanish high society.
I'm here to see the quieter side of the Costa del Sol, an area that has smartened up, ditching the package-holiday image for glamour. This part is neither glitzy and showy nor cheap and cheerful, but reminds me of a time before I'd ever heard the word overtourism. And it is this lesser-known corner of the Costa del Sol that the luxury hotel group Fairmont has chosen for its new flagship resort in Spain.
I am technically not in the province of Malaga, the heart of the Costa del Sol, but Cadiz, on the border of the less visited Costa de la Luz ('Coast of the Light'). And it is the light that strikes me as I step into the hotel's grand lobby with its double-height ceiling and panoramic windows showcasing some quite spectacular views of the Mediterranean. The light, and the silence.
After checking in, I stroll down to the hotel's soon-to-open beach club, and find myself all but alone, bar a couple of dog walkers spotting dolphins and soaking up the views.Speaking of views, I am staying in a gloriously sun-drenched Deluxe Sea View room. At 52 sq m (excluding the private terrace), it is the size of most suites but is the smallest room category at Fairmont La Hacienda. There's a tub and a rainfall shower with lush bath amenities by Le Labo, a seating area, a second outdoor seating area and a huge bed. Throughout the hotel, matt Campaspero limestone floors, walls and bathrooms, combined with natural materials such as wood, jute, linen and rattan, create a dreamlike, almost airbrushed vibe.
Most of the 153 rooms overlook the neighbouring La Hacienda Links golf resort, the hotel's three swimming pools and the sea. The higher up you get, the better the panorama, which stretches all the way to Morocco on a clear day. There are also 47 villas, some of which can be broken down into individual suites, with three to nine bedrooms, alongside private pools, kitchens, dining areas, an abundance of outdoor space and the sound of the rolling waves.
'People are excited about the new hotel because there's nothing like this around here,' says María Gómez Martos, a host at Fairmont La Hacienda's superb Dalmar restaurant (more on this later), a local from the area. 'There's nothing else this beautiful.'
For lunch I feast on oysters and perfectly tender grilled octopus at the poolside Umbra restaurant as the sunlight peeps through the bamboo roof and dances on the tables (mains from £21). That afternoon, I head to the gym, a light-filled space with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the sea. Afterwards a therapist from the spa deftly works on my muscles as I snore on a plush padded massage table.
The next day, I want to see more of the local area. I travel 45 minutes inland to Alcala de los Gazules, a white hilltop village with more than two centuries of history. I meet up with Juan Pedro Romero, a historian who shows me a secret camomile-scented garden in the ruins of a 16th-century monastery and the 12th-century fortress that sits atop the city (Alcala, with its 5,000 inhabitants, was granted city status in 1876). We visit Encarna Fernández Luna at the 200-year-old bakery Horno de Luna, which has been run by five generations of matriarchs (@hornodeluna). She tells me that her recipe for aniseed-flavoured mollete flatbread originated with the Moors and was handed down by her great-grandmother. Later, I devour plates of tapas and assorted grilled meats at El Campanero (mains from £13; @restaurante_campanero).While other parts of Spain have been grappling with headline-grabbing overtourism protests, Romero insists that you won't find any 'tourists go home' graffiti in Alcala. 'People here want to show off their city,' he says. 'I love my home town and it's an honour when people come here so I can share it with them.'
Ellie McDonald, a young woman from the Scottish Highlands who moved to Alcala last year and runs a relocation and translation service for people moving to Spain, agrees. 'I have the best time here and everyone is so friendly,' she says. 'I've lived all over Spain, but this village is my home.'
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Later, I meet up with Thomas Shield, a Londoner based in Florida-esque Sotogrande, with its mansions, palm trees, golf, polo and yacht clubs. Shield's company, The Jolly Mile, rents and sells Moke cars (thejollymile.com). He also organises experiences for Fairmont La Hacienda's guests, as I discover when he whizzes me up to another white village, the breathtakingly beautiful Castellar de la Frontera, in an open-top electric Moke.He says Sotogrande is less ostentatious than other spots on the Costa. 'It used to be all golfers and retired people, but the pandemic changed that. Lots of young professionals left the big cities and are still here,' he says. 'I'm still a Londoner but can't see myself living anywhere else.'
Back at Fairmont La Hacienda, I'm ready for dinner. Dalmar by Benito Gómez, a Catalan of Andalusian descent whose Bardal restaurant in Ronda has been awarded two Michelin stars, is an upmarket affair with zero stuffiness. His dishes are playful and flavour-packed; like the red tuna from the Strait of Gibraltar punched up with wasabi from Montseny outside Barcelona, or local mushrooms cooked in rich Catalan fricando meat stew (mains from £25).
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Leaving Fairmont La Hacienda, I have not set foot in a golf buggy (other than the one the attentive, ever-present hotel staff use to ferry guests around the resort). Nor have I seen any fake tan or mega-yachts. If you're looking to unwind in beautiful natural surroundings, eat well, connect with the local culture and, yes, maybe play some golf, this new side of the Costa de Sol might surprise you.
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Isabelle Kliger was a guest of Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol, which has B&B doubles from £500 in July (fairmont.com). Fly to Gibraltar
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