Tod's and Schiaparelli owner Diego Della Valle on the impact of Trump's tariffs on the EU, AI's inability to replace a true ‘Made in Italy' artisan, and why the shoemaker doesn't chase trends
His global ambitions were clear from day one. After fully taking the reins in 1984, Della Valle named the company J.P. Tod's (later changed to the simpler Tod's), believing that the English-sounding name would resonate around the world.
Back then, the Marche region of Italy, where Della Valle was born in 1953, was already the epicentre of shoe manufacturing in the country. From leather goods in Tuscany to silk fabrics in Lake Como and gold jewellery in Veneto, Italy is still where most creations from luxury groups such as
LVMH and Kering come to life.
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'Made in Italy' has become a byword for this precious know-how, often romanticised by brands trying to capitalise on the allure associated with Italian craftsmanship and culture.
Given his background and family history, it's no surprise that Della Valle has become a de facto ambassador for 'Made in Italy' and a defender of all it represents.
Tod's Gommino shoes are a timeless design. Photo: Handout
Last year, however, the prestige of that label came into question after the Italian government probed some factories making goods for high-end Italian and French brands over worker exploitation and safety.
Tod's is one of the few vertically integrated Italian companies fully in control of its supply chains – it owns its own factories and does not have to rely on large numbers of external suppliers that are not always easy to monitor.
'You have to be careful not to demonise a brand just because it's famous and say things that are not true just for [the sake of] headlines,' says Della Valle. 'But [at the same time] when a brand is important and has a strong reputation, it's not worth making little short cuts that from a financial point of view don't really help, but from an image point of view can be disastrous. You also have to be careful because this affects the whole concept of 'Made in Italy' and its reputation, and journalists end up believing all this and then it becomes more dangerous when it spreads via social media because you can't control it. Before talking about these things you need to actually visit these companies and not talk from an ivory tower.'
While Della Valle is first and foremost known for Tod's, he is one of Italy's most celebrated – and wealthiest – industrialists. Parisian shoemaker Roger Vivier and casual footwear brand Hogan are also part of Tod's Group, while he personally owns
French couture house Schiaparelli , which he single-handedly revived. He is also on the board of LVMH – the largest luxury group in the world – and was one of the founders of Italo, a successful high-speed railway company.
He's seen it all, which is why he is very pragmatic about the current crisis gripping the luxury industry, especially in China, where reduced consumer confidence has impacted spending after the success brands experienced during and after the coronavirus pandemic.
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