18 of the best hotels in Dubrovnik
But if it's a bit of beach action you're looking for, that's easy to find. Beyond the Ploče Gate at the southern end of the Old Town are elegant hotels lining the waterfront, all with fabulous views of the Old Town but without the crowds. Head north of the Old Town and you reach Lapad and Babin Kuk peninsulas, home of classic Croatian seaside resort hotels, with plenty of space for large outdoor pools and spas — and all just a bus ride away from the Old Town. Here's our pick of the best hotels in Dubrovnik.
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£ | SPA | POOL | Best for spa time
You're offered a glass of sparkling wine when you check in, setting the welcoming tone for this sprawling resort that resembles an ocean liner cut into the cliffs. It's big, yes — 310 rooms — but it's certainly not lacking in warmth. Maybe it's all that sunlight flooding in through full-length windows and the huge atrium. Or maybe it's the bubbling waters of the spa and indoor pool, offering a cocoon from the bustle of Dubrovnik's old town, a 20-minute walk. Book a room on the Adriatic side and you'll have big balconies and terraces tumbling down towards the large outdoor pool, lounge bar and, just beyond, a rocky beach. Dining options including superlative fish and a Japanese restaurant. Although it's just steps from Dubrovnik's only casino, it's very family-friendly, with a kids' playroom and pool.
• Read our full guide to Croatia££ | POOL | Best for hilltop views
The 16th-century summer home of the aristocratic Natali family makes an appealing hilltop bolt hole that comes with stupendous views of the Adriatic. Soak up those vistas from the outdoor pool, hot tub, restaurant and Renaissance-style gardens. There are only around 20 rooms, all in contemporary style — book one with a sea-view balcony. Relax in the library after a workout in the gym and, if you're a keen trail runner or hiker, you're only a moments away from the steep, zigzagging path up to the top of Mount Srd. ££ | Best for friendly service
This boutique B&B is in a beautifully restored 17th-century townhouse near the cathedral, originally with four elegant and cosy rooms with more than a hint of French country cottage about them. They've since created another three exquisite rooms, all with the same handcrafted kitchenettes you'll find in most of the others (only the attic room can't quite squeeze in a kitchen under the eaves). You'll be tempted to play the piano in the elegant communal room. Managed by the couple who used to run the much-missed Fresh Sheets Kathedral B&B, it has the same unstinting and helpful service.££ | SPA | POOL | Best for sea views
You get two hotels in one at the five-star Hotel Excelsior — one half is an imposing building of Dalmatian stone from 1913; the other is a sleek 1970s addition. Both halves have smart contemporary rooms, many with balconies giving you some of the best views of the old town and the Adriatic from an excellent spot ten minutes' walk from the city walls. Three restaurants, a piano bar and a large spa with an indoor pool complete the picture.££ | SPA | POOL | Best for old town convenience
Only seconds away from the northern gate to the old town — yet away from the crowds — the palatial Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik certainly suits its name. This stately 19th-century hotel has a large garden terrace and fabulous sea views from its upper floors, as well as a spa and an indoor pool. It's worth booking a room with a balcony to soak up those Adriatic vistas.££ | POOL | Best for boat trips
Set in a 16th-century stone villa facing Gruz harbour, Hotel Kazbek has laid-back luxury behind its high stone walls. There's an intimate atmosphere to go with its large outdoor pool and its 13 19th-century-style rooms surrounding the terrace. Catch the sea breeze from the terrace bar and enjoy Croatian cuisine in the vaulted Kazbek restaurant. For days out, hire the hotel's speedboat for tours of nearby islands.££ | Best for sightseeing
Tucked in among the terracotta rooftops of Dubrovnik old town, this hotel is at the centre of city life. It occupies a former baroque palace on Gundulic Square and has seen a few things in its lifetime; it has its very own chapel, commissioned by the Venetian baron who lived here, and each of the 19 bedrooms is named after a local figure. Exposed stone walls and wooden beams come as standard, as do Victorian-style porcelain tubs and Italian mosaic tiles, and the corridors are lined with glass-cased antiques and artworks. This is a classic hotel that feels like a museum piece (in a good way), with a terrace restaurant for people-watching and a wine bar for a crash course in Croatian vintages. It's an atmospheric address from where you can beat the crowds to all the sights. ££ | Best for boutique elegance
Two beautifully restored 16th-century stone houses make up St Joseph's, a sumptuous boutique B&B with only nine rooms, suites and apartments. Decked out in a reined-in French country style with exposed beams and pale stone walls, the rooms all come with kitchenettes where you can enjoy the lavish breakfast that's delivered daily.£ | SPA | POOL | Best for spa lovers
Sometimes it's good to get a little distance from the old town, especially in the height of summer. This is an unashamedly big-hitting resort — almost a village in itself — with no claim to history but flaunting an enviable position amid landscaped grounds on the beachfront. Bedrooms come in every size, all with a terrace or balcony, and there are self-catering apartments for families — topped by the five-bedroom pool villa. Activities might involve a cycling tour while the children let off steam at the summer sports camp (everything from badminton to water polo), as well as mixology lessons and an outstanding spa. Of the many restaurants, Cilantro is recommended for its seafood. A world to itself, best for a beach holiday with an occasional foray into the medieval city.
• Best Croatia tours: from Dubrovnik to Zagreb• Best places to visit in Croatia£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for modern chic
Built into the cliff about a 15-minute walk from the old town, Villa Dubrovnik makes certain all of its guests can enjoy those superlative views. All 56 contemporary rooms and suites have sea-facing terraces, and the deluxe suites have outdoor hot tubs too. When you're not in the spa or in the indoor pool, you can flop on the bathing platform and dive into that glorious sea. There's a complimentary bus to the old town, as well as a motorboat shuttle. ££ | SPA | POOL | Best for Babin Kuk beaches
Covering a fair chunk of the Babin Kuk peninsula, the Dubrovnik President Valamar Collection features its own large secluded beach — as close to a private beach you can get in a country that officially doesn't have any. All 292 of its spacious, modern rooms and suites have sea views and furnished terraces. As the hotel faces west, that means spectacular sunsets from the rooms and the Miramare and Momenti restaurants. There's a large outdoor pool to go with the enormous spa.££ | Best for arty atmosphere
Throughout Prijeko Palace, artists have been given free rein to decorate the nine stylish rooms set in this 15th-century stone palace that runs parallel to the old town's main Stradun thoroughfare. Part of the fun is checking out the various roof terraces that are part of the Stara Loza restaurant, all offering wonderful views of terracotta rooftops and the Adriatic beyond. ££ | SPA | POOL | Best for waterside luxury
Hugging the cliffs on the southern part of Lapad peninsula, Hotel Dubrovnik Palace makes the most of its splendid seaside location. Along with two outdoor pools, a rocky beach, a diving centre and a rooftop spa, it has 308 contemporary rooms all with sea views and a balcony. Backed by the fragrant pinewoods of Petka park — an appealing place for a jog through the woods — the hotel is in a tranquil location, yet it's easy to reach the old town by bus.££ | Best for old town charm
This boutique hotel is set within a 500-year-old townhouse just off Stradun. Rooms have modern comforts and great flair for design, while keeping an eye on the heritage of the place. Some have little balconies (which make a lovely place for breakfast overlooking the lanes of the old town), and kitchens if you want to make use of Dubrovnik's fabulous local produce.££ | SPA | POOL | Best for Lapad beach breaks
Just a few feet from Lapad's beach, Hotel Kompas has stirring views to go with its chic minimalist rooms and huge waterfront terrace. All of its 173 rooms and suites have terraces, and most have sea views. If you want a change from the outdoor pool, use one of the hotel's sun loungers on the pebbly beach at Lapad Bay. There's also an extensive spa with a huge sun terrace and bar, and the rooftop Zenith Bar is a must for sundowners in full view of the sunset.£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for couples on a beach retreat
Overlooking the sheltered beach at Miramare Bay, Hotel Bellevue is a sophisticated, peaceful spot on the cliffs about a 20-minute walk north of the old town. While all of its 91 breezy, contemporary rooms and suites come with sea views, it's worth paying extra for one with a balcony. The indoor freshwater pool has wonderful views of the sea, but if you prefer the sea, there's a lift that takes you down to the serviced beach.£££ | Best for art lovers
A thrilling speedboat ride from Dubrovnik old town harbour, this is the result of two decades of painstaking restoration that took a Franciscan monastery and turned it into a living space whose five suites can be rented in their entirety. There are cloisters and ruins to explore, a rooftop terrace for watching boats sail past, and a bee-buzzed garden planted with medicinal herbs. But it's also a very special gallery, curated by the woman who steered the restoration — Francesca Thyssen-Bornemisza, a major force in contemporary art. Paintings, photographs and fabrics line the corridors and bedrooms, while antique pieces from her family's collection are assembled in the dining room. With a housekeeper and chef, feasts and excursions can be arranged, along with massages and yoga classes on the lawn — although one of the greatest pleasures here is simply walking down to the rocks and swimming in the sea past the fortress walls. lopud1483.com
£ | POOL | Best for foodies and ferry rides
This friendly, family-run guesthouse set in a 400-year-old stone farmhouse is only a few minutes' walk from both the ferry port and the large food market at Gruz, which is turning into Dubrovnik's trendiest district. Within high stone walls are a lush garden, swimming pool and vine-shaded breakfast terrace and barbecue to go with the eight rooms and three apartments.
bokun-guesthouse.com
Additional reporting by Rick Jordan
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Sky News
2 hours ago
- Sky News
Russian tourists are holidaying at a new North Korean seaside resort - but what's it really like?
The world's most secretive state is a mystery for billions of people - but not Anastasiya Samsonova. She has returned from a week's holiday in North Korea. "We saw nothing terrible there, there is no danger there," the 33-year-old HR manager tells me. "Frankly speaking, we really liked it." She was part of a group of 15 Russian tourists who were the first foreign visitors to a new seaside resort, which was opened to great fanfare by North Korea's leader Kim Jong Un in June. Her holiday snaps show a white sand beach, shimmering seas and high-rise hotels. But something's missing - people. There are rows of sun loungers, but not a soul sitting on them. A glittering banquet hall that's devoid of diners. That's because, when it comes to international tourists, the Wonsan-Kalma resort is currently only open to Russians. "The hotel was absolutely new," Anastasiya enthuses, unfussed by the absence of others. "Everything was done very beautifully, a good interior ... very developed infrastructure." But why not Turkey? Or Thailand? I gently suggest that people in Britain might be shocked at the idea of a summer break in a country better known for famines and forced labour than parasols and pina coladas. "We were interested in seeing how people live there," Anastasiya explains. "There were a lot of prejudices about what you can and can't do in North Korea, how you can behave. But actually, we felt absolutely free." Anastasiya is one of a growing number of Russians who are choosing to visit their reclusive neighbour as the two allies continue to forge closer ties following the Kremlin's invasion of Ukraine. Last year, North Korean troops supplied military support in Russia's Kursk region, and now there is economic cooperation too. North Korean produce, including apples and beer, has started appearing on supermarket shelves in Russia's far east. And last month, Moscow launched direct passenger flights to Pyongyang for the first time in decades. But can this hermit nation really become a holiday hotspot? The Moscow office of the Vostok Intur travel agency believes so. The company runs twice-weekly tours there, and I'm being given the hard sell. "North Korea is an amazing country, unlike any other in the world," director Irina Kobeleva gushes, before listing some unusual highlights. "It is a country where you will not see any advertising on the streets. And it is very clean - even the asphalt is washed." She shows me the brochures, which present a glossy paradise. There are images of towering monuments, pristine golf greens and immaculate ski slopes. But again, no people. Ms Kobeleva insists the company's tours are increasingly popular, with 400 bookings a month. "Our tourists are mostly older people who want to return to the USSR," she says, "because there is a feeling that the real North Korea is very similar to what was once in the Soviet Union. "But at the same time, there is a huge growing demand among young people." Sure enough, while we're chatting, two customers walk in to book trips. The first is Pavel, a young blogger who likes to "collect" countries. North Korea will be number 89. "The country has opened its doors to us, so I'm taking this chance," he tells me when I ask why he wants to go. For pensioner Tatiana, the reason is sentimental. "My husband wanted to go there, but now he's gone. So I want his wish to come true," she says. It'll certainly cost them. One week's trip that takes in Pyongyang, a circus and the new beach resort, costs roughly £1,500 without flights. At that price, I suspect most tourists will be content for this secretive state to remain hidden.
Times
20 hours ago
- Times
18 of the best hotels in Dubrovnik
The many faces of Dubrovnik are reflected in its huge range of places to stay. Opt for the ridiculously beautiful Old Town and stay in a gorgeously restored Renaissance palace or stone townhouse that's been turned into a boutique hotel or luxurious B&B. You'll be surrounded by the Renaissance and baroque splendour of the Old Town's shiny marble lanes and alleyways, not to mention the imposing city walls that curve around the town. Venture outside the Pile Gate at the northern end of the Old Town for stately hotels and cosy townhouses surrounded by greenery. But if it's a bit of beach action you're looking for, that's easy to find. Beyond the Ploče Gate at the southern end of the Old Town are elegant hotels lining the waterfront, all with fabulous views of the Old Town but without the crowds. Head north of the Old Town and you reach Lapad and Babin Kuk peninsulas, home of classic Croatian seaside resort hotels, with plenty of space for large outdoor pools and spas — and all just a bus ride away from the Old Town. Here's our pick of the best hotels in Dubrovnik. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue £ | SPA | POOL | Best for spa time You're offered a glass of sparkling wine when you check in, setting the welcoming tone for this sprawling resort that resembles an ocean liner cut into the cliffs. It's big, yes — 310 rooms — but it's certainly not lacking in warmth. Maybe it's all that sunlight flooding in through full-length windows and the huge atrium. Or maybe it's the bubbling waters of the spa and indoor pool, offering a cocoon from the bustle of Dubrovnik's old town, a 20-minute walk. Book a room on the Adriatic side and you'll have big balconies and terraces tumbling down towards the large outdoor pool, lounge bar and, just beyond, a rocky beach. Dining options including superlative fish and a Japanese restaurant. Although it's just steps from Dubrovnik's only casino, it's very family-friendly, with a kids' playroom and pool. • Read our full guide to Croatia££ | POOL | Best for hilltop views The 16th-century summer home of the aristocratic Natali family makes an appealing hilltop bolt hole that comes with stupendous views of the Adriatic. Soak up those vistas from the outdoor pool, hot tub, restaurant and Renaissance-style gardens. There are only around 20 rooms, all in contemporary style — book one with a sea-view balcony. Relax in the library after a workout in the gym and, if you're a keen trail runner or hiker, you're only a moments away from the steep, zigzagging path up to the top of Mount Srd. ££ | Best for friendly service This boutique B&B is in a beautifully restored 17th-century townhouse near the cathedral, originally with four elegant and cosy rooms with more than a hint of French country cottage about them. They've since created another three exquisite rooms, all with the same handcrafted kitchenettes you'll find in most of the others (only the attic room can't quite squeeze in a kitchen under the eaves). You'll be tempted to play the piano in the elegant communal room. Managed by the couple who used to run the much-missed Fresh Sheets Kathedral B&B, it has the same unstinting and helpful service.££ | SPA | POOL | Best for sea views You get two hotels in one at the five-star Hotel Excelsior — one half is an imposing building of Dalmatian stone from 1913; the other is a sleek 1970s addition. Both halves have smart contemporary rooms, many with balconies giving you some of the best views of the old town and the Adriatic from an excellent spot ten minutes' walk from the city walls. Three restaurants, a piano bar and a large spa with an indoor pool complete the picture.££ | SPA | POOL | Best for old town convenience Only seconds away from the northern gate to the old town — yet away from the crowds — the palatial Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik certainly suits its name. This stately 19th-century hotel has a large garden terrace and fabulous sea views from its upper floors, as well as a spa and an indoor pool. It's worth booking a room with a balcony to soak up those Adriatic vistas.££ | POOL | Best for boat trips Set in a 16th-century stone villa facing Gruz harbour, Hotel Kazbek has laid-back luxury behind its high stone walls. There's an intimate atmosphere to go with its large outdoor pool and its 13 19th-century-style rooms surrounding the terrace. Catch the sea breeze from the terrace bar and enjoy Croatian cuisine in the vaulted Kazbek restaurant. For days out, hire the hotel's speedboat for tours of nearby islands.££ | Best for sightseeing Tucked in among the terracotta rooftops of Dubrovnik old town, this hotel is at the centre of city life. It occupies a former baroque palace on Gundulic Square and has seen a few things in its lifetime; it has its very own chapel, commissioned by the Venetian baron who lived here, and each of the 19 bedrooms is named after a local figure. Exposed stone walls and wooden beams come as standard, as do Victorian-style porcelain tubs and Italian mosaic tiles, and the corridors are lined with glass-cased antiques and artworks. This is a classic hotel that feels like a museum piece (in a good way), with a terrace restaurant for people-watching and a wine bar for a crash course in Croatian vintages. It's an atmospheric address from where you can beat the crowds to all the sights. ££ | Best for boutique elegance Two beautifully restored 16th-century stone houses make up St Joseph's, a sumptuous boutique B&B with only nine rooms, suites and apartments. Decked out in a reined-in French country style with exposed beams and pale stone walls, the rooms all come with kitchenettes where you can enjoy the lavish breakfast that's delivered daily.£ | SPA | POOL | Best for spa lovers Sometimes it's good to get a little distance from the old town, especially in the height of summer. This is an unashamedly big-hitting resort — almost a village in itself — with no claim to history but flaunting an enviable position amid landscaped grounds on the beachfront. Bedrooms come in every size, all with a terrace or balcony, and there are self-catering apartments for families — topped by the five-bedroom pool villa. Activities might involve a cycling tour while the children let off steam at the summer sports camp (everything from badminton to water polo), as well as mixology lessons and an outstanding spa. Of the many restaurants, Cilantro is recommended for its seafood. A world to itself, best for a beach holiday with an occasional foray into the medieval city. • Best Croatia tours: from Dubrovnik to Zagreb• Best places to visit in Croatia£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for modern chic Built into the cliff about a 15-minute walk from the old town, Villa Dubrovnik makes certain all of its guests can enjoy those superlative views. All 56 contemporary rooms and suites have sea-facing terraces, and the deluxe suites have outdoor hot tubs too. When you're not in the spa or in the indoor pool, you can flop on the bathing platform and dive into that glorious sea. There's a complimentary bus to the old town, as well as a motorboat shuttle. ££ | SPA | POOL | Best for Babin Kuk beaches Covering a fair chunk of the Babin Kuk peninsula, the Dubrovnik President Valamar Collection features its own large secluded beach — as close to a private beach you can get in a country that officially doesn't have any. All 292 of its spacious, modern rooms and suites have sea views and furnished terraces. As the hotel faces west, that means spectacular sunsets from the rooms and the Miramare and Momenti restaurants. There's a large outdoor pool to go with the enormous spa.££ | Best for arty atmosphere Throughout Prijeko Palace, artists have been given free rein to decorate the nine stylish rooms set in this 15th-century stone palace that runs parallel to the old town's main Stradun thoroughfare. Part of the fun is checking out the various roof terraces that are part of the Stara Loza restaurant, all offering wonderful views of terracotta rooftops and the Adriatic beyond. ££ | SPA | POOL | Best for waterside luxury Hugging the cliffs on the southern part of Lapad peninsula, Hotel Dubrovnik Palace makes the most of its splendid seaside location. Along with two outdoor pools, a rocky beach, a diving centre and a rooftop spa, it has 308 contemporary rooms all with sea views and a balcony. Backed by the fragrant pinewoods of Petka park — an appealing place for a jog through the woods — the hotel is in a tranquil location, yet it's easy to reach the old town by bus.££ | Best for old town charm This boutique hotel is set within a 500-year-old townhouse just off Stradun. Rooms have modern comforts and great flair for design, while keeping an eye on the heritage of the place. Some have little balconies (which make a lovely place for breakfast overlooking the lanes of the old town), and kitchens if you want to make use of Dubrovnik's fabulous local produce.££ | SPA | POOL | Best for Lapad beach breaks Just a few feet from Lapad's beach, Hotel Kompas has stirring views to go with its chic minimalist rooms and huge waterfront terrace. All of its 173 rooms and suites have terraces, and most have sea views. If you want a change from the outdoor pool, use one of the hotel's sun loungers on the pebbly beach at Lapad Bay. There's also an extensive spa with a huge sun terrace and bar, and the rooftop Zenith Bar is a must for sundowners in full view of the sunset.£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for couples on a beach retreat Overlooking the sheltered beach at Miramare Bay, Hotel Bellevue is a sophisticated, peaceful spot on the cliffs about a 20-minute walk north of the old town. While all of its 91 breezy, contemporary rooms and suites come with sea views, it's worth paying extra for one with a balcony. The indoor freshwater pool has wonderful views of the sea, but if you prefer the sea, there's a lift that takes you down to the serviced beach.£££ | Best for art lovers A thrilling speedboat ride from Dubrovnik old town harbour, this is the result of two decades of painstaking restoration that took a Franciscan monastery and turned it into a living space whose five suites can be rented in their entirety. There are cloisters and ruins to explore, a rooftop terrace for watching boats sail past, and a bee-buzzed garden planted with medicinal herbs. But it's also a very special gallery, curated by the woman who steered the restoration — Francesca Thyssen-Bornemisza, a major force in contemporary art. Paintings, photographs and fabrics line the corridors and bedrooms, while antique pieces from her family's collection are assembled in the dining room. With a housekeeper and chef, feasts and excursions can be arranged, along with massages and yoga classes on the lawn — although one of the greatest pleasures here is simply walking down to the rocks and swimming in the sea past the fortress walls. £ | POOL | Best for foodies and ferry rides This friendly, family-run guesthouse set in a 400-year-old stone farmhouse is only a few minutes' walk from both the ferry port and the large food market at Gruz, which is turning into Dubrovnik's trendiest district. Within high stone walls are a lush garden, swimming pool and vine-shaded breakfast terrace and barbecue to go with the eight rooms and three apartments. Additional reporting by Rick Jordan • Best things to do in Dubrovnik • Best cruises in Croatia
Times
21 hours ago
- Times
Dubrovnik's top seaside hotel has a hotly anticipated new look
There is a certain irony in a building conceived as apartments for high-ranking officials in the dark days of Yugoslav communism emerging as the glittering star of the Dalmatian coast's hotel scene. And while Villa Dubrovnik has undergone many transformations since it opened as a hotel in 1963, none has been quite as impressive as this iteration — the work of the Brazilian architect and designer Arthur Casas. After a 22-month closure and a £22 million spend, last month came the hotly anticipated reopening of the hotel. My last visit had been in 2016, and I was delighted to find that the futuristic lift that transports you from the mountain road down to the hotel entrance was still there — along with the limestone cliff-face studded with bronze 'maskerons': benevolent gargoyles found throughout the old town, and the symbol of the hotel. Set on a spectacular section of the coast overlooking the forested Lokrum island, and in view of the old town — 15 minutes' walk away — the footprint of the hotel and its layout remains unchanged. But inside, Casas — known for his minimalist aesthetic — has created a luminous world in shades of cream enlivened by flashes of terracotta, a nod to the roof tiles of the old town. Local limestone has been used throughout, from smooth travertine floors to the dazzling white rough-hewn Brac limestone (said to have been used for the White House in Washington DC) for definition on the walls. Such a pared-back approach means the seascape, rightly, has the starring role. 'It was very important to us that the hotel should feel Croatian,' says Mirna Strazicic, the hotel's general manager and chief executive, over a lunch of oysters and a huge, clear-eyed red snapper on the pine-scented terrace of Giardino, one of two restaurants. 'So Casas and his team visited Croatia many times to immerse themselves in the country's history and culture.' His research is evident: from the cushions, bedspreads and beach towels — inspired by the now-defunct Glagolitic alphabet created by Saint Cyril in the ninth century, discovered on the 'Baska tablet' on the island of Krk — to the fretworked cupboard doors that reference the traditional lacework of the island of Pag. Paintings by the local artists Dubrovka Tulio and Ivana Pegan grace the walls, and ceramic vases add warmth. The 55 bedrooms and suites — all with balconies, 54 of them sea-facing — are similarly harmonious, with their interplay of stone, pale oak, suede, satin brass and statement Brazilian marble in the bathrooms. Lifts take guests down four floors, past terraces, to the rocky private beach, which has been paved with Benkovac stone and made into chic terraces. Pizzazz is introduced by way of staff uniforms, a dazzling counterpoint to the beige. The theatrical outfits are courtesy of the Croatian designer Juraj Zigman (who has created costumes for Beyoncé and Christina Aguilera). 'It was a risk, but I wanted something unique,' Strazicic says of the 14 separate outfits and textile designs, fusing everything from old-town architecture to traditional Konavle earrings, in a riot of prismatic abstraction. 'They create a talking point.' Staff aren't just well dressed. Service is key, and many of the team have been here for decades, including Miro, who has worked in the gardens since the 1970s. All of which means that returning guests, VIPs among them (the charming Strazicic remains resolutely shtoom on their identity), are greeted like old friends. Milan, the barman, conjures inventive cocktails (try the fig-infused negroni) at the rooftop Galanto bar, a breezy spot from which you can watch the boats putter by. Dinner at the fine-dining Pjerin is equally heady. I sit on the terrace, surrounded by the sapphire waters of the Adriatic, the noon-time chirrup of crickets replaced by the evening shrill of swooping swifts. I watch the sun glow orange and set behind the fortifications of Ragusa — the old town of Dubrovnik — while the forest of the 'cursed island' of Lokrum darkens in the gloaming. But for the superyachts in the bay — the Beckhams and a Kardashian are rumoured to have moored here — it is a view unchanged since Kandinsky sketched it in 1930, from his pension in the hills above the hotel. In the meantime, the chef Robert Racic's menu poses a dilemma: lobster tagliolini or black orecchiette with seafood, salicornia and bottarga? Seabass or turbot stuffed with broccoli? I choose the five-course tasting menu, whereupon Maldin, a mine of oenological information, arrives to advise on Croatian wines. The white asparagus with low-cooked (soft-boiled) egg, and lashings of black Istrian truffle is a highlight. The use of local products is carried into the spa, where the many treatments include massages using medicinal herbal oils, Istrian olive oil and delicious rose creams made by the Franciscan monks in the old pharmacy of Dubrovnik. There's a 15m indoor pool with a space-age vibe, and a glass wall opening onto decking above the sea. But who would not prefer to swim in waters where Odysseus was beguiled by Calypso? In summer, at least. It is hard to tear yourself away from this place, but there is much to see. A fleet of cars ferries guests to and from the old town (permission is being sought to reintroduce the speedboat transfer), while the concierge can arrange more distant excursions (see below), with access to all the best guides. 'If you want to see heaven on Earth, come to Dubrovnik,' wrote George Bernard Shaw, a man not given to effusiveness. He was right — and for more reasons than he could have known: in 1929 he had not seen the Eden that is Villa Dubrovnik. This article contains affiliate links that will earn us revenue Teresa Levonian Cole was a guest of the Dubrovnik Tourist Board ( and Villa Dubrovnik, which has B&B doubles from £1,080 ( Kirker Holidays has three nights' B&B at Villa Dubrovnik from £1,998pp, including flights and private transfers ( In a narrow street in the old town, Proto is one of the city's best fish restaurants, serving produce from the town of Ston (on the Peljesac peninsula, and famous for oysters) — all beautifully presented in a traditional yet casual setting (mains from £33; Beneath a leafy trellis, the spacious, airy garden terrace at M'arden is a rare find in the old town. Owned by the wine connoisseur Ana Bitanga, this bar specialising in Croatian wines also serves inventive and substantial tapas dishes, as well as more traditional local prosciutto and cheeses. Great atmosphere too (tapas from £8; The enviable location of Port 22 — on a shady terrace outside the Ploce gate, overlooking the old port — makes this a convenient pitstop for a spot of lunch after a morning's sightseeing. Opt for a generous plate of fried calamari, with a refreshing glass of Posip wine (mains from £20; For a true taste of tradition, and the most succulent peka (meat or octopus with vegetables, slow-cooked over ashes in an iron bell), try Local by Marija Papak in the old town. Papak is renowned for her home cooking and warm hospitality. There's no menu, but the vibe is locally sourced starters and homemade desserts, along with peka and wine. Booking essential (peka experience from £105pp, including wine; Off the beaten track, and well worth the effort, is Bowa. In a secluded cove of crystalline waters on the island of Sipan (one of the Elaphiti islands), and with a fleet of sexy black speedboats to ferry guests to and from the mainland, Bowa has a unique beach club meets Robinson Crusoe vibe. Fresh Adriatic fish is a speciality, with local and organic produce — including Sipan's own olive oil — in the mix (three courses from £78; • Read our full guide to Dubrovnik The old town is, of course, unmissable, and its myriad cultural and historic sights reward several days' exploration. For an excellent guide, try Lidija Begic (from £87pp for a two-hour tour of the old town; £139pp to walk on the walls too; But after dodging tourist crowds (much reduced since restrictions were imposed on cruise ships in 2017) in the hot, narrow streets, you might be tempted to go further afield. The Peljesac peninsula is famed for its sea-facing vineyards and many wineries. Wine tours are available throughout this beautiful region — which is about 45 minutes' drive northwest of Dubrovnik. Aficionados of rich, full-bodied reds should not miss the prized Dingac microregion (and the excellent Saint Hills winery), where native Plavac Mali grapes grow in extreme conditions on 45-degree slopes. Picasso, who in the 1960s created a poster for the Yugoslav film, The Battle of Neretva, asked only for 12 bottles of Yugoslav wine by way of payment. It is said that Dingac was among the wines offered by the grateful director. Pliny the Elder noted the beauty of the Elaphiti islands in the first century AD. All but three of the 13 islands, close to the city and stretching out to the northwest, are uninhabited and a private boat can be hired to speed you round the three that are sparsely populated — Kolocep, Lopud and Sipan. Here, deserted coves surrounded by pine-clad rocks make for idyllic swimming. Of these, car-free Lopud has perhaps the most to see, with its churches and ruins, and a fine, sandy (if crowded — ferries and day-tripping boats visit the islands) beach at Sunj, on the southern bay of the island. At the northern tip, you will find Lopud 1483, a 15th-century Franciscan monastery, converted into a five-suite, art-filled private let. With its thickly forested slopes, swimming spots and 800 plant species, Lokrum is the garden of locals, with a frequent ferry service plying the ten-minute journey from the old town. You can escape the crowds on the paths that snake through holm oaks and ash, up to the fortress begun in 1806 by Napoleon's troops and completed under the Habsburgs. The atmospheric remains of a Benedictine monastery, founded in 1023, give rise to one of the island's several legends. It is said that the monks, when forced to leave Lokrum, cursed the island and anyone who attempted to claim it. The curse certainly worked on the unfortunate Maximilian, Archduke of Austria and Emperor of Mexico, who built a summer villa here in 1859. His execution in 1867, at the age of 34, was the subject of a series of paintings by Manet. • 18 of the best hotels in Dubrovnik Wine, olive oil, sheep's cheese, sage honey and truffle products are good options, as is rose face cream made by the Franciscan monks at their 14th-century pharmacy, just inside the Pile Gate of the old town. For something more durable, Marko Farac, in an alley of the old town, makes hand-crafted contemporary jewellery inspired by the sea and based on traditional filigree designs (
