Paris menswear season welcomes back Saint Laurent; features newcomer Kartik Research

Fashion Network

23-05-2025

Fashion Network: Why do you think Paris retains such a magnetic runway attraction for designers and brands?
Pascal Morand: Paris Fashion Week 's appeal stems from several factors. This is firstly due to the presence of the most emblematic fashion houses and promising emerging brands coming from all over the world. They work in close link with a complete fashion ecosystem, gathering a whole array of competencies, including journalists, buyers, press offices, production houses, influencers, glam teams, and talents, but also the whole creative community with visual artists, photographers, filmmakers, musicians, etc.
The Federation and executive committee are committed to actively contributing to the success of this large and multi-parameter event. It ensures the standing of the official calendar, which is the core of Paris Fashion Week. It benefits from the support of its official partners. It carefully organizes the selection of guests through its selection commissions, which are renewed each season.
One additional factor is the historic Parisian flavor—Paris has a long-standing tradition of welcoming the arts from around the world. Finally, the appeal also stems from the city's economic and cultural dynamics, with Paris Fashion Week being both a cultural event and a key platform for economic relationships.
FN: What are some of the shows you are most excited to see?
PM: The strength and richness of Paris Fashion Week lie precisely in the diversity of its proposals, creative vision, and fashion identities, from big houses to emerging designers. Newcomers this season are for the show Kartik Research and for the presentation format, Camiel Fortgens, CamperLab, and P. Andrade. The official calendar also welcomes the returns of Saint Laurent, Craig Green, Dries Van Noten, Études Studio, and Wales Bonner.
FN: In the past few years, there have often been as many presentations as runway shows in menswear. Have you been able to increase the proportion of shows in this coming season?
PM: We are witnessing great vitality in both shows and presentations. The question is not about increasing the number of shows but finding the most relevant format for each house. Since the pandemic, we gathered the presentations and shows in a unique calendar, and therefore, several brands choose to do presentations, as sometimes it appears to them more suitable to show their collection in this way. Anyhow, the balance between shows and presentations is scrupulously controlled by the menswear committee.
FN: What is the economic impact of the season on Paris or France?
PM: The economic impact is multifaceted. Of course, there is the impact on sales, but there is also the impact on the development and attractiveness of Paris and France, as Paris Fashion Week implies employment in houses and all the creative communities gravitating around its organization.
And then, you have the influence impact, which has economic effects and can be measured using a classical marketing concept: Earned Media Value (EMV). Referring in particular to Launchmetrics data, based on a related concept—Media Impact Value (MIV)—we observe the following MIV amounts for the last two seasons: $303.6 million for PFW® Men's Fashion Autumn/Winter 2025–2026 and $278.3 million for Spring/Summer 2024, whereas the amount was $50 million in 2022—representing a six-fold increase in three years.
FN: How many people—buyers, editors, models, makeup and hair professionals, photographers, VICs, VIPs—do you estimate to come to Paris for menswear?
PM: It is hard to measure the number of people present during Menswear Paris Fashion Week, but we have estimated the number at roughly 5,500, including staff from houses, French and international buyers, journalists, production houses, press offices, VIPs, VICs, influencers, talents...
FN: What new measures have the FHCM introduced to support young designers?
PM: We pursue the policy, which has proven to be worth it. Each season, FHCM provides grants for young designers, with the constant support of DEFI for French brands and thanks to its Fund for Emerging Brands for non-French brands.
Besides, like for each season, the Sphere Paris Fashion Week showroom will be held at the Palais de Tokyo from Wednesday, June 25, to Sunday, June 29. Two newcomers, Mouty and Victor Clavelly, and five already present brands will also display their collections: Cachí, C.R.E.O.L.E., La Cage, Lazoschmidl, and Ouest Paris.
FHCM is also developing its support in helping young designers find locations for their shows and presentations at a reasonable cost. The location of shows and presentations is becoming an increasing issue for which FHCM aims to provide assistance.
Furthermore, FHCM supports young designers by organizing dedicated seminars based on the expertise of the FHCM team, the contribution of external experts, and professional partnerships.
FN: These days, there are often more fans outside shows than professionals inside. Are you concerned that the season risks becoming something of a circus?
PM: We are aware of the growing number of fans outside shows, which is a testimony to the growing reach of Paris Fashion Week, the brightness of shows, and the presence of highly renowned celebrities and the interest of a global audience. We are working closely with the Préfecture de Police to secure the shows and the outside. We also communicated with the houses about the importance of security outside the show locations and provided them with a security guide.
Also during this pivotal Paris fashion period, Fashion Network spoke with Louis Vuitton CEO Pietro Beccari about luxury, loyalty, and the evolving definition of cultural branding.