
Atlantic Braces for Potential 100ft Ocean Waves Next Week
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Hurricane Erin would have the potential to trigger 100-foot waves as it moves across the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, according to forecasters.
Why It Matters
Currently classified as a tropical storm, Erin could develop into the first major hurricane of the 2025 season, experts say.
It is the fifth named system of the Atlantic hurricane season so far, following Andrea, Barry, Chantal and Dexter—none of which developed into hurricanes.
A graphic from the NHC shows the system's expected path.
A graphic from the NHC shows the system's expected path.
National Hurricane Center
What To Know
Jean-Raymond Bidlot, senior scientist in ocean modeling at the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) told Newsweek that Erin is forecast to strengthen over the next week as it heads toward the U.S. East Coast, reaching peak intensity offshore from Cape Hatteras.
Remaining at sea, it could produce large waves through "dynamic fetch," where wind-driven waves match the storm's speed and gain extra energy. This effect can generate waves larger than wind strength alone would predict, primarily to the right of the storm's low-pressure center, Bidlot explained.
"The latest forecast does indeed indicate that the largest significant wave height could reach values in excess of 50 feet with an associated most likely largest wave of more than 100 feet," Bidlot said.
These will be large, long waves—hundreds of meters in length—not a single wall of water, the scientist said, adding that they are typical for such intense storms and should not be mistaken for rogue waves.
AccuWeather lead hurricane expert Alex DaSilva told Newsweek that the waves could cause "major shipping disruptions as well as change itineraries for cruise ships."
"The strong winds from the storm creates these waves and they propagate out from the storm. Depending on how close the storm gets to the U.S., there can even be beach erosion in some areas," DaSilva said.
What People Are Saying
Senior scientist in ocean modeling at the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Jean-Raymond Bidlot told Newsweek: "Hurricanes are known for their very powerful winds, usually confined to an area around the storm center, but as indicated, waves tend to radiate away from the storms, propagating towards coastal areas even though the brunt of the storm might still be miles away from the coast.
"These storm-driven waves might not be the largest but will still be significant and have the potential to create very hazardous conditions when reaching the shore leading to intense surf conditions and dangerous rip currents well before the arrival of the storm clouds and rain associated with the hurricane."
AccuWeather lead hurricane expert Alex DaSilva told Newsweek: "While 100 feet can't be ruled out, I think they would only be possible if the storm become a Category 4 or 5 storm.
"I think waves near the center of 50-75 feet are much more realistic (assuming a Category 3 storm)."
What Happens Next
Forecasts are sometimes subject to change.
According to the National Hurricane Center, Erin is forecast to become a hurricane by Friday.
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USA Today
7 minutes ago
- USA Today
Erin becomes first hurricane of the Atlantic season; direct hit on US not expected
"Erin will be a large and powerful hurricane over the southwestern Atlantic Ocean this weekend," the National Hurricane Center said. Hurricane Erin formed in the Atlantic on Aug. 15, becoming the first hurricane of the 2025 season and putting it on track to become a major hurricane over the weekend, forecasters said. "At this time we don't expect a direct hit to the United States – we still need to watch it just in case," said AccuWeather Lead Hurricane Expert Alex DaSilva. "We expect the entirety of the East Coast to be impacted by big waves, rip currents next week." It was still too early to determine exactly what impact Erin might have on the East Coast of the United States, the Bahamas and Bermuda, forecasters said. Rough surf conditions and rip currents could be in store for the Atlantic basin, with potential for tropical storm conditions in Puerto Rico and the Leeward Islands. Experts urged preparing ahead of time for potential hurricanes. Other impacts to land include the chance of 10- to 15-foot waves along the Outer Banks, barrier islands off North Carolina and southern Virginia, flash flooding and mudslides in Puerto Rico and wind gusts of 60 to 80 mph in Bermuda, AccuWeather said. Erin is predicted to become a major hurricane, defined as a Category 3 or higher storm. Major hurricanes have wind speeds of over 110 mph, and AccuWeather predicted Erin could have winds of at least 130 mph, which would make it a Category 4 storm. "Regardless of the details, Erin will be a large and powerful hurricane over the southwestern Atlantic Ocean this weekend," the National Hurricane Center said in a morning update. The system developed into a tropical storm out in the eastern Atlantic Ocean on Aug. 12 and moved along a westward path. It originated off the African coast as a cluster of rain showers and thunderstorms last week, according to AccuWeather. This is the first hurricane of the 2025 Atlantic hurricane season, which began on June 1 and will last through the end of November. Active hurricane weather usually peaks between mid-August and mid-October. On average, the Atlantic usually sees its first hurricane on about Aug. 11, according to NOAA, putting Erin just about on track with typical seasons. Erin path tracker This forecast track shows the most likely path of the center of the storm. It does not illustrate the full width of the storm or its impacts, and the center of the storm is likely to travel outside the cone up to 33% of the time. How do hurricanes form? Hurricanes are born in the tropics, above warm water. Clusters of thunderstorms can develop over the ocean when water temperatures exceed 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If conditions are right, the clusters swirl into a storm known as a tropical wave or tropical depression. A tropical depression becomes a named tropical storm once its sustained wind speeds reaches 39 miles per hour. When its winds reach 74 mph, the storm officially becomes a hurricane. How to prepare for a hurricane Delaying potentially life-saving preparations could mean waiting until it's too late. "Get your disaster supplies while the shelves are still stocked, and get that insurance checkup early, as flood insurance requires a 30-day waiting period," NOAA recommends. Prepare now for hurricanes: Here's what you should do before a storm arrives


Indianapolis Star
22 minutes ago
- Indianapolis Star
Tropical Storm Erin to strengthen into hurricane Friday: See path tracker
Tropical Storm Erin is continuing to pick up strength as it moves across the Atlantic, with forecasters expecting the storm to officially strengthen into a hurricane on Friday, Aug. 15, according to the National Hurricane Center. The hurricane center issued an advisory at 8 a.m. ET on Aug. 15 that said Erin is moving toward the west-northwest near 17 mph and that this motion is expected to continue into the weekend. The center of the storm is likely to move near or just north of the northern Leeward Islands over the weekend. As of 8 a.m. ET, it was located about 520 miles east of the islands. Forecasters said maximum sustained winds are about 70 mph with higher gusts and that steady strengthening is expected during the next few days. "Erin is forecast to become a hurricane later today and could become a major hurricane by this weekend," the hurricane center said. A major hurricane is a term used for cyclones rated a Category 3 or higher with sustained wind speeds over 110 mph. Erin is expected to produce areas of heavy rainfall beginning late Friday, Aug. 15, and continuing through the weekend across the northernmost Leeward Islands, the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, as well as southern and eastern Puerto Rico. Rainfall totals of 2 to 4 inches, with isolated totals of 6 inches, are expected, and this rainfall may lead to isloated flash and urban flooding, along with landslides and mudslides, according to hurricane center forecasters. Additioanlly, swells generated by Erin will begin affecting portions of the northern Leeward Islands, the Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico by this weekend, and will likely spread to the western Atlantic next week. These swells are likely to cause life-threatening surf and rip current conditions, the NHC said. Rapid intensification?: Hurricane forecasters say Erin's winds could skyrocket. This forecast track shows the most likely path of the center of the storm. It does not illustrate the full width of the storm or its impacts, and the center of the storm is likely to travel outside the cone up to 33% of the time. Illustrations include an array of forecast tools and models, and not all are created equal. The hurricane center uses only the top four or five highest-performing models to help make its forecasts. In addition to Erin, the NHC is also keeping an eye on a disturbance located over the western Gulf that forecasters say "continues to lack a closed low-level circulation." Forecasters said in an Aug. 15 advisory that shower activity has increased some over the past few hours and the system, currently labeled as Invest 98L, could become a short-lived tropical depression before it moves inland over northeastern Mexico or soutehrn Texas this afternoon oe evening. "Regardless of development, locally heavy rainfall is possible along portions of northeastern Mexico and southern Texas over the next couple of days, and interests there should monitor the progress of this system," the hurricane center said in the advisory. The NHC gives the system a 50% chance of formation through the next 48 hours. Hurricanes are born in the tropics, above warm water. Clusters of thunderstorms can develop over the ocean when water temperatures exceed 80 degrees. If conditions are right, the clusters swirl into a storm known as a tropical wave or tropical depression. A tropical depression becomes a named tropical storm once its sustained wind speeds reach 39 mph. When its winds reach 74 mph, the storm officially becomes a hurricane. Delaying potentially lifesaving preparations could mean waiting until it's too late. "Get your disaster supplies while the shelves are still stocked, and get that insurance checkup early, as flood insurance requires a 30-day waiting period," the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration recommends.


Chicago Tribune
an hour ago
- Chicago Tribune
Heavy rains expected in Puerto Rico and Virgin Islands as Tropical Storm Erin nears
SAN JUAN, Puerto Rico — Tropical Storm Erin was expected to strengthen into a hurricane on Friday as it approached the northeast Caribbean, prompting forecasters to warn of possible flooding and landslides. The storm is expected to remain over open waters, although tropical storm watches were issued for Anguilla and Barbuda, St. Martin and St. Barts, Saba and St. Eustatius and St. Maarten. Heavy rains were forecast to start late Friday in Antigua and Barbuda, the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, and southern and eastern Puerto Rico. Up to 4 inches are expected, with isolated totals of up to 6 inches, according to the National Hurricane Center in Miami. Forecasters also warned of dangerous swells. The storm was located about 520 miles east of the Northern Leeward Islands. It had maximum sustained winds of 70 mph and was moving west-northwest at 17 mph. Hurricane specialist and storm surge expert Michael Lowry said Erin is forecast to eventually take a sharp turn northeast that would put it on a path between the U.S. and Bermuda. 'The forecasts for next week still keep the future hurricane safely east of the mainland U.S.,' he said. Erin is forecast to become a major Category 3 storm late this weekend. The hurricane center noted 'there is still uncertainty about what impacts Erin may bring to portions of the Bahamas, the east coast of the United States, and Bermuda in the long range.' Dangerous surf and rip currents are expected to affect the U.S. East Coast next week, with waves reaching up to 15 feet (5 meters) along parts of the North Carolina coast that could cause beach erosion, according to Accuweather. 'Erin is forecast to explode into a powerful Category 4 hurricane as it moves across very warm waters in the open Atlantic. Water temperatures at the surface and hundreds of feet deep are several degrees higher than the historical average,' said Alex DaSilva, Accuweather's lead hurricane expert. Erin is the fifth named storm of the Atlantic hurricane season, which runs from June 1 to Nov. 30. This year's season is once again expected to be unusually busy. The forecast calls for six to 10 hurricanes, with three to five reaching major status with winds of more than 110 mph.